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Thread: Yama-Bro's MK4 Build Thread - #9158 (Index in Post #1)

  1. #41
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    School was back in session this week for my little gearheads

    We marked and drilled holes in the F panels.



    Then drilled corresponding holes in the frame and temporarily attached the panels with Clecos. My oldest described using the Clecos as satisfying. I can't disagree with that. It was my first time using them as well. What a handy tool they are. I'm glad I bought a hundred pack of them (1/8" size). You don't need to put them in every hole. We did because it was fun.

    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 10:26 AM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  2. #42
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    I dug out the front shock parts and assembled them. It was a fairly straight forward process.

    The parts...


    The assembled shocks...


    Building these reminded me of putting together RC car shocks. It's basically the same thing, except about 10 times bigger. One question I have is...Does the set screw in the collar get tightened down later or should I tighten it now?
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 10:34 AM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  3. #43
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yama-Bro View Post
    One question I have is...Does the set screw in the collar get tightened down later or should I tighten it now?
    Leave it loose. You will turn that collar later to set the ride height. That will get adjusted a few times with the alignment process. Great to see you working with the boys.

    -Steve
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  4. #44
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    F panels installed permanently...

    Originally I was going to leave the panels raw and let them get patina, but I started reading on the forums and you know how that goes. LOL. I ended up going the faux brushed route, as described to me by Jeff Kleiner in this post. To do this; I cleaned them off with brake cleaner, then gave them several uni-directional strokes with a gray 3M Scotch Brite pad. After that I cleaned them again with brake cleaner. Finally, I gave them a coat of Shark Hide to preserve the shine. At first I wasn't sure about the brushed look, but once I got it on the frame, it really popped. I really like it. I think it gives the race look, without too much bling. That and it's cheap and easy. I'm planning on doing this for the visible panels. I did it to both sides of these since one side will be to the engine bay and the other was just practice.

    Is there a dry time for Shark Hide? I didn't see it on the can. I may have missed it.

    I also added a 5/8" square notch at the top of the panel per Edwardb's build thread. This adds clearance for wiring and tubing that's installed later.

    My youngest roughing up the panel. At one point during this, my wife came out to talk to me. While my attention was elsewhere my son changed direction and went perpendicular to the previous brush marks. That's what I get for looking the other way. LOL. Nothing too major. We got it straightened out and looking good.


    The supplies...


    Here's closeup of the brushed look.
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 10:36 AM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  5. #45
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    The passenger side done...
    I used the manual riveter on this side.


    Me running a bead of caulk on the frame. I used the GE II outdoor/indoor clear silicone.


    We used the Harbor Freight pneumatic riveter on the driver's side. It's so easy to operate even a 7 year old can do it.


    The finished driver's side...
    [/url]
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 10:42 AM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  6. #46
    Senior Member mach'er's Avatar
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    Looking good. Looks like your helpers are jumping in and contributing.
    Roadster #9146. Complete Kit, 363 w/Jim Inglese Weber Carbs, Forte TKO600 w/Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Wilwood Brakes, F & R Sway Bars, 17" Halibrands, Power Steering, Breeze Front Battery Kit, Herb's Door Panels, and who knows what else left to be added.
    Ordered 5/19/17. Delivered 8/18/17. Slowly Building.

  7. #47
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Nice work, we are about the same area right now on the build. I got my car earlier this month and I am just moving along. I will be watching your build as I do mine. There are a few of us with pretty close numbered cars. Great work my friend.

  8. #48
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    I have the exact same rivet gun and my boys love it too! Your Shark Hide panel looks great. I haven't ruled that stuff out yet. I keep going in circles on my panels. I'll probably wind up with multicolored panels. Keep up the great work!

  9. #49
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    Frank-

    Nice update; I like the treatment you are giving the panels. I think you will be happy with the look when they all come together. I agree with you that the bare aluminum look is quite satisfying. I like that you have roughed them up (and got a kick out of your son changing directions on you -- because that's what mine would have done), and protecting them with sharkhide.

    I love the boys working with you, and it's cool that you are taking the time to take pictures. The time I have spent with my boys in the garage has been quite rewarding, and I suspect the memories you create will last a very long while!

    Keep up the good work!!

    Regards,

    Steve

  10. #50
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Thanks for the comments guys!

    We made a little more progress this weekend. I worked on the passenger side lower control arm Saturday. It didn't assemble to the frame nearly as easy as I was expecting. From the posts I've read here, it sounds like this is normal, so hopefully I did it correct. The first issue I ran into was the the bolts did not fit into the frame holes. Simple fix; I cleaned the powder coating out with a file. The next issue was that the small under head radius of the bolt was not allowing the flange of the bolt to seat completely flat against the bracket. Another easy fix; I ran my Dremel around the edge of the hole and created a chamfer to add clearance for the under head radius. This may not have been an issue, but it wasn't hard to do while I was in the area. At this point I was able to test fit the arm to the frame with fasteners. There was a big gap in the front, so I put a spacer there. After getting the front lined up, the back was at a bind. I had to spread the back brackets out slightly (.06" or so each side) with a 15" crescent wrench to add one spacer back there. Once I was happy with the test fit, I took it all apart, lubed the ends of the bushing with white lithium grease and slipped it all back together. When I say slipped, I mean tapped the washers back into place with a hammer and punches. Once all the parts were in their places, I torqued the bolts down to the spec in the manual. One point of interest that appears to be a change; the bolts are now 10.9 grade metric bolts. I used a 21mm socket on the bolt, a 15/16 wrench (it just fit better than the metric wrench). My oldest son and I installed the driver's side lower arm on Sunday. Much of the same issues as on the passenger side, however on this side, the front fit about perfect and the back needed one spacer. Is it ok if they are spaced out differently between the driver and passenger sides? Will this cause problems down the road with alignment?

    Here are the parts before assembly, I love the Factory Five logo that's cut in the lower arms. Nice touch...


    Here are the tools of persuasion...


    The passenger side final assembly. Note that I have a washer/spacer on the front and back. Is that ok, that it doesn't match the driver side?


    The driver side final assembly. This one doesn't have a washer in the front, but has one in the back. It doesn't match the passenger side. Is this ok?


    Both arms installed...


    PS. Any one know what the purpose of torquing the bolts with the arms parallel to the ground?
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 10:56 AM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

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  12. #51
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    Frank-

    Don't worry about the spacers not being identical side to side. I understand your concern, but the spacers are really there to ensure a snug fit within the frame without bending the tabs that are welded to the frame. If you were to snug it down (force the gap to close) without the spacers, it would bend the tabs and cause stress to the weld, and compromise the joint. The modest difference side to side is not an issue. I hope this helps!

    Nice progress!

    Regards,

    Steve

  13. #52
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Mine were tight enough that I did not utilize the spacers. The arms were very snug. The build is coming along great. Nice work. I have my 3 kids working with me as well. Love having them in the garage while I chip away at the build.

  14. #53
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    I was traveling for work this week, so I didn't get anything done on the car. I was thinking about it all week though. =)

    After getting back home I tore apart and reassembled the upper control arms as described on this post...Here
    I installed the pivot balls with blue lock-tite per the manual. Unlike other builders, my pivot balls went together great. I almost thought they were too loose.


    The upper arms installed...


    All the parts for the spindes and hubs...


    My son helped me remove the anti-lock brake sensor rings. This car is going to be all about the raw driving experience...anti-lock brakes are not allowed. =)
    We used a three jaw puller and a random chunk of steel as a stop. This got the ring to the edge, then we coaxed it off the rest of the way with a pry bar.


    My youngest son has been chomping at the bit to install these shocks. Here was his moment of glory.


    The spindles and shocks loosely installed. My new Pittsburgh torque wrench broke after tightening the first lower control arm castle nut. Bummer. The locking screw on the bottom stripped out. Hopefully I can get a replacement soon. Once I get it, I'll revisit all the fasteners and get them cinched down to the proper spec. The worst part is; I gave away my older torque wrench after getting this one. That one served me well for 20 years...whoops.


    We slapped the hubs on to check the fit and see how they looked.


    All the parts went together good. No sanding or modifications needed besides cleaning powder coat out of frame holes. The only issues I ran up against were:
    1. Accessing the castle nuts with the torque wrenches...how does everyone do this? With the nuts installed the space is too small to get my torque wrench and socket on the nuts. I did the lower nuts with the upper uninstalled, but the top won't work that way. Maybe a shallow socket?
    2. The lower shock spacers don't quite fill the gap. I may have to get a shim to fill this in?
    3. Has anyone had issues with steering arms not sitting flat against the spindles? I do have the beveled edge to the cast radius on the spindle for maximum clearance. One side seems perfect, the other side has a tiny bit of daylight. It may be fine once tightened down. I didn't want to tighten the nyloc nuts down if there was a possibility I had to remove them while torquing other fasteners.
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 11:00 AM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

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  16. #54
    Papa's Avatar
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    She's coming along nicely!
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
    (Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)

    Delivered: 6/17/2017
    First Start: 12/30/2017
    Completed: 12/7/2019
    Legal: 1/30/2020

    Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
    Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
    Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread

  17. #55
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Progress report...

    I torqued all the fasteners from the last post's parts that I assembled. To followup on my issues above:
    1. For the upper ball joint castle nuts I added a washer under the nut (or above) so that the cotter pin would properly align with the grooves in the nut. Also for the upper ball joint castle nuts that I couldn't access with the torque wrench, I just tightened them as far as I could go with a wrench. I got it pretty tight. It should be fine.
    2.For the gap next to the lower shock spacers, I made a run to ACE and found some approx .050" washers, that filled out the space perfectly.
    3.Where my driver's side steering arm didn't sit flush with the spindle, I filed a little off the steering bracket so that the part cleared the cast radius on the spindle.

    I ended up going to my local O'Reilly's and utilized their loaner program for a big torque wrench capable of 250 ft lbs. I used that on the hub nuts. It took all of my 163 lbs to get it to click. .
    The big torque wrench...


    The next task was the power steering rack.
    I was perplexed by the sleeve and the bushing that came with the rack. So I posted a question up on the forum and got my answers. Read it here. I learned that there is another bushing that wasn't in the same box as my rack. So lesson learned: Don't use the sleeve and bushing in the power steering rack, use the one that comes with the kit (or purchase an aftermarket offset bushing set). A picture of the hardware is below. The parts you want to use are on the top. The parts you don't want to use are on the bottom. The bottom parts will give you a sloppy fit.


    Here's the rack in the frame. It went in pretty good once we had the right parts. I did it like everyone suggests. Mounted the driver's side first, then dropped the passenger side down into the bracket. We did give just a slight spread to the brackets to open them up to help get the spacers started into the spot.
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 11:04 AM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  18. #56
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Next on the list is the front brakes. I purchased Gordon Levy's front and rear brake kit for FFR 15" Halibrand replica rims. These are the biggest 4 piston brakes you can get to fit inside the 15" FFR rims. What a nice kit! Everything went together great and the instructions are excellent. We managed to get a loose assembly of the passenger side mocked up. We then proceeded to torque a few of the fasteners. We still need to safety wire the hats to the rotors.

    The rotors are 11.75" diameter...


    We shimmed the caliper bracket to center the caliper on the rotor.


    With the 15" FFR rims...





    It's a tight fit, but it clears.
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 11:20 AM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  19. #57
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    And finally we had to mount the 17" rims. Of course they have a ton of room. I was a little worried that the 11.75" rotors wouldn't fill the rim and would look goofy, but I don't think they look too bad.


    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 11:23 AM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  20. #58
    Senior Member Gordon Levy's Avatar
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    Looks great. When you have the 15" tire mounted you will need to be careful where the weights are placed.
    99/2000 NASA PSO Champion-2005 west coast FFR challenge series Champions
    Sponsor Tony B's 2007 ST2 National Championship
    2009 NASA TTC runner up-2010 NASA TTB runner up

  21. #59
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Thanks Gordon. Good tip. I'll keep that in mind.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  22. #60
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Nice work on thinking ahead and getting what you need to make it work. Love the classic halibrands.

  23. #61
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TexasAviator View Post
    Nice work on thinking ahead and getting what you need to make it work. Love the classic halibrands.
    Thanks! Planning to go with "replica" Goodyear Eagles (i.e. stenciled or stickered Cooper Cobras/Mickey Thompsons). I love that classic look too.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  24. #62
    Senior Member mach'er's Avatar
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    Looking good.

    I see several threads like yours, where people installed their steering racks early. My manual has it later, after the pedal box. Is there a reason you did it now, rather than waiting? For example, I didn't catch the front sway bar was going to need a different lower shock mount bolt, and I will have to disassemble/replace that to get my sway bar in. I'm wondering if the PS rack is something else I should be doing now - for some reason that I'm just not seeing (again).

    Oh, and I agree that those Billboard Goodyears are awesome looking, and give a great vintage look. You're looking at those for your 15" wheels, but also have 17" wheels? I'll have to read your build thread again and see why you're having two separate sets of wheels/tires.
    Roadster #9146. Complete Kit, 363 w/Jim Inglese Weber Carbs, Forte TKO600 w/Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Wilwood Brakes, F & R Sway Bars, 17" Halibrands, Power Steering, Breeze Front Battery Kit, Herb's Door Panels, and who knows what else left to be added.
    Ordered 5/19/17. Delivered 8/18/17. Slowly Building.

  25. #63
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Thanks Mach'er!

    I did the rack early because the box was in my way. LOL. I read forward in the manul and didn't see any reason not to do it early. I saw others doing it, so I figured I'd give it a try. Worst case; I have to take out two bolts and take it out, but I think it'll be ok.

    For the wheels; I'm going to have the 15" with good year replicas for cruising and looking cool, then I have the 17"s if I want to do a track day or autocross (or just change up the look). I was planning on doing it this way, but wasn't planning on having the 17" rims this early in the build. They are used with used tires. I got a sweet deal on them that I couldn't pass up.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  26. #64
    Senior Member MPTech's Avatar
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    If you haven't gotten to it yet, I highly recommend the Expanded Passenger Footbox mod, gains your rider a LOT of wasted room if you are running a small block (the 302 SBF gains even more room than the 351, if I'm remembering correctly). It's a little more work, but you can knock it out in a day and won't regret it.
    I also like the drop trunk expansion for some much needed trunk-space too.

    Since you mentioned the Rack, I installed the Breeze Rack bushings and it's more solid and slightly better positioned. (I haven't felt the need for bump-steer mod or need the rack-extenders with mine. Your experience may be different).
    F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
    Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!

  27. #65
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    I'll look into the passenger foot box mod. Haven't really gave much thought to it yet, however I am planning on doing the drop trunk mod. I need all the storage I can get.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  28. #66
    #9160 BB767's Avatar
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    Hi Yama-Bro. Been watching your build, looks good! Since you were discussing the steering rack, thought I'd pass along something I noticed. If you are picky about your steering wheel being "centered" when driving straight ahead, be sure and align it when you install the steering shaft. It is a lot easier than trying to do it later! Doesn't have to be perfect, the alignment shop will take care of that, but I do not expect to have to remove the steering shaft again to adjust it. That is a real pain.

    Just received my BluePrint fuel injected 427W this week! What a thing of beauty, you guys do nice work! Should be going in the car in the next few weeks. Brien #9160
    MK4 - complete kit - Blueprint 427W - Holly Sniper EFI - TKO 600 .64 - 3.55 3 link - 17" Halibrands

  29. #67
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    I am definitely picky about the steering wheel being straight when going straight. I'll make sure to center it when I get to that part. Thanks for the tip!

    Glad you like your BPE 427. Those are sweet engines. My build plan is starting to creep towards one of those instead of the 347. Time will tell. Is yours the one with dual fuel injectors?
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  30. #68
    Papa's Avatar
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    The simplest way to center the rack is as follows:

    1. Turn rack fully to one side and measure the length from the end of the rod to the edge of the rack body
    2. Turn the rack fully to the other side and re-measure the length of the same rod to the rack body
    3. Subtract the short length (2) from the long length (1) and divide the difference in half
    4. Turn the rack back in the first direction until the length of the rod to the body is equal to the short length (2) plus 1/2 the difference from the previous step (3)

    Now install the shaft so that the steering wheel is centered and you should be good to go.
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
    (Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)

    Delivered: 6/17/2017
    First Start: 12/30/2017
    Completed: 12/7/2019
    Legal: 1/30/2020

    Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
    Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
    Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread

  31. #69
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Sounds easy enough. Thanks Papa!
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
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  32. #70
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    The simplest way to center the rack is as follows:

    1. Turn rack fully to one side and measure the length from the end of the rod to the edge of the rack body
    2. Turn the rack fully to the other side and re-measure the length of the same rod to the rack body
    3. Subtract the short length (2) from the long length (1) and divide the difference in half
    4. Turn the rack back in the first direction until the length of the rod to the body is equal to the short length (2) plus 1/2 the difference from the previous step (3)

    Now install the shaft so that the steering wheel is centered and you should be good to go.
    Papa, Thanks for posting that. It is simple enough but had been bugging me in the back of my mind. I'll use your technique as well.

    Mark

  33. #71
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    The simplest way to center the rack is as follows:

    1. Turn rack fully to one side and measure the length from the end of the rod to the edge of the rack body
    2. Turn the rack fully to the other side and re-measure the length of the same rod to the rack body
    3. Subtract the short length (2) from the long length (1) and divide the difference in half
    4. Turn the rack back in the first direction until the length of the rod to the body is equal to the short length (2) plus 1/2 the difference from the previous step (3)

    Now install the shaft so that the steering wheel is centered and you should be good to go.
    Good writeup, I did something similar to what you wrote here. I just got the correct steering fitting for my flaming river rack. Its the 26 spline adapter to the steering shaft. It even cleared my ginormous sn95 brake booster, I had to message it a bit but it cleared.

  34. #72
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    I took my first swing at safety wiring the brake rotors tonight. What do you guys think? Anything I did wrong that you can see?

    When I ordered my pliers several months back, I mistakenly ordered the .041" wire instead of the .031". I have some .031" on the way, but I tried it with .041" tonight. I cut off three attempts that didn't work. The 4th was considerably better. By the 7th it was nice and tight. I may cut off some of these and try again. Maybe it would be worth doing them all over with the .031", once it arrives?

    I purchased the pliers from Eastwood (Here). They seem to work good.


    The 7th try and the tightest.
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 12:13 PM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  35. #73
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Nice work. Looks good to me. I use safety wire in my plane often. Twisted to spec per the tech orders.

  36. #74
    Boydster's Avatar
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    I've been working on airplanes for over 34 years, and I've known aircraft mechanics that did worse. Yours look pretty good. I like that the wire that wraps around the bolt head gets twisted underneath, that you doubled back the pigtails to save flesh in the future. No reason to redo it with 032. If the bolts accept 041, as these obviously do, best to use the larger wire.

    I would buy-off on those.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  37. #75
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boydster View Post
    I've been working on airplanes for over 34 years, and I've known aircraft mechanics that did worse. Yours look pretty good. I like that the wire that wraps around the bolt head gets twisted underneath, that you doubled back the pigtails to save flesh in the future. No reason to redo it with 032. If the bolts accept 041, as these obviously do, best to use the larger wire.

    I would buy-off on those.
    Thanks! I didn't expect a review that good! I'll roll with these then.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  38. #76
    Senior Member FLPBFoot's Avatar
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    Great pics and I gotten some great ideas for a body buc. Thank you,

    I've been drooling over a Blue Print engine. Maybe I missed it but which one are you planning to put in?

  39. #77
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ILPBFoot View Post
    Great pics and I gotten some great ideas for a body buc. Thank you,

    I've been drooling over a Blue Print engine. Maybe I missed it but which one are you planning to put in?
    Hey Thanks! I'm planning to make some dimensional drawings for my body buck and post them here, but I want to make sure the prototype doesn't collapse before I share it with the world. So far it's been working great. I have roughly 70% of the boxes that came with the kit stored on the shelf. I left off the really heavy boxes. It's a good solution for those of us that are space challenged. If you aren't storing much on it, it's complete over kill. (See post #101 for the drawings of the buck)

    I haven't decided on which BluePrint Engine I will be using. Originally I was leaning towards the 347, but our 306 puts out almost as much power and it's $1000 cheaper. I've also been liking the 427 with the Dart block. I'd really like to have around 400hp, so the 427 might be too much (it's about 550hp). It would be nice to be able to put the 427 logo on the side and not be lying about it.
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 12-07-2017 at 09:30 AM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  40. #78
    Senior Member FLPBFoot's Avatar
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    My garage is space challenged as well so details on the dimensions would be GREAT!

    I am wanting to display that 427 badge as well and that's why I've been looking at the FFR Blue Print 427 carb version. I think it's a bit less but 475 hp is still a bit of a concern and agree something in the 400 hp range would be plenty.

    Thanks again for all the pictures. Very nice detailed documentation.

    Have a good Thanksgiving!

  41. #79
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    Yama-Bro,

    I have about 540 in my 427 and it's fine. All depends on the configuration and tune. You just need to training your right foot. There really are few times that you can use it all, but it sure is fun when you can. (professional driver on a closed course and all that happy stuff).

    Jim

  42. #80
    #9160 BB767's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yama-Bro View Post
    I am definitely picky about the steering wheel being straight when going straight. I'll make sure to center it when I get to that part. Thanks for the tip!

    Glad you like your BPE 427. Those are sweet engines. My build plan is starting to creep towards one of those instead of the 347. Time will tell. Is yours the one with dual fuel injectors?
    Sorry for the delay Bro, didn't see the question earlier. I have the 427W with the FAST XFI Street, throttle body injection, single 4 barrel (not sure what it is called in EFI language but there are 4 BIG holes in it!) 509.8 HP 510.9 TQ. The TBI looks very much like a carburetor so I keep more of the old school look. The guys on your test stand said it was one of the top 5 best sounding motors they have tested! Can't wait to hear it myself. Have you made your motor decision yet?
    MK4 - complete kit - Blueprint 427W - Holly Sniper EFI - TKO 600 .64 - 3.55 3 link - 17" Halibrands

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