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Thread: Yama-Bro's MK4 Build Thread - #9158 (Index in Post #1)

  1. #161
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Here are some pictures from part 2 of our rust cleanup. We also removed the excess brackets that aren't used in the FFR kit.

    I broke out the saw and lopped off the quad shock brackets...


    If you have a sharp blade, the saw will go right through this things...




    We smoothed out the remnants of the bracket with the grinder...


    We used a wire wheel for most of the rust removal, but to get into the tight spots we used a die grinder and cup shaped wire wheel...


    It turned out pretty decent. It's looking a lot better than when I brought it home.


    There are a couple tight areas, that we couldn't get into, but from what I understand the POR-15 will cover it either way.





    I have been planning on welding the tubes to the center section for a while. However, after talking to a few people and reading some things online, I've decided not to weld the tubes. Here's a link to a tube welding discussion I started...Here. If I end up having problems, I'll let you all know.
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 03:06 PM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  2. #162
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    I didn't have a lot of time to work on the car this weekend, but I did manage to get a few things done...

    Cleaned the remainder of the old lube out of the axle tubes, using rags and brake cleaner...


    Just like cleaning a gun barrel...


    I cleaned the pinion flange. It was encrusted with about 1/4" of old grease, dirt, and rust. After some scrapping, wire brushing and a dip in the cleaning tank, I sprayed it with some of ACE hardware's rust preventer paint.


    Better than new...
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 03:09 PM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  3. #163
    Member Scubasommer's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Yama-Bro;314059]I didn't have a lot of time to work on the car this weekend, but I did manage to get a few things done...

    Cleaned the remainder of the old lube out of the axle tubes, using rags and brake cleaner...

    Just like cleaning a gun barrel...

    I cleaned the pinion flange. It was encrusted with about 1/4" of old grease, dirt, and rust. After some scrapping, wire brushing and a dip in the cleaning tank, I sprayed it with some of ACE hardware's rust preventer paint.

    Better than new...

    Hey Brother
    Looks great..... keep up the great work and the posts!
    I am following your ( and your boys) build intensely as my MK4 is being delivered in July!!!!
    Love the boys helping......you are truly blessed!!

    Keep up the great work!

  4. #164
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scubasommer View Post

    Hey Brother
    Looks great..... keep up the great work and the posts!
    I am following your ( and your boys) build intensely as my MK4 is being delivered in July!!!!
    Love the boys helping......you are truly blessed!!

    Keep up the great work!
    Thanks! I am definitely blessed with more than I deserve.

    Congrats on ordering a kit! I'll be watching for your build thread this summer.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  5. #165
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    The gears are in!

    I cheated on this step and had my local tranny shop do the install and setup. The new parts installed are a Ford Racing 31 spline Trak-Lok differential and 3.55 Ford Racing ring and pinion. I utilized one of Summit's axle rebuild kits.

    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 03:10 PM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  6. #166
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    I applied the POR-15 this weekend. It seems like a lot of my paint jobs don't live up to my expectations. They either don't stick, don't look right, have runs, etc. Painting may not be my thing, however this stuff turned out pretty good. I did have several tiny pinhole-esque bubbles show up on the cast portion of the housing during the 2nd coat. The paint seems rock hard, so I don't think it 'll be an issue. Overall, I'm really happy with it. I ended up buying 3 of the POR15 super starter kits. It seemed like the cheapest way to go to get everything I needed without having a lot of extra that would go to waste. As it turned out, I only used one 4oz can of the actual paint, one bottle of the degreaser and one and half bottles of the metal prep. I was surprised by that, as I was expecting to use 2 cans of the paint at least. This stuff goes pretty far for what it is. I have plenty to do more projects. I'd say the paint has a medium thickness, but can be deceivingly runny if put on to thick.

    I followed all the steps, just like the instructions detailed. Step one, degrease...


    Step 2, metal prep...


    The metal prep etches the metal so the paint will adhere like it supposed to. It left the surface a little chalky...


    Step 3, paint. I got a respirator for this part. I was glad I did. It's really strong smelling stuff. This was after the second and final coat...


    After the POR15 dried, I sanded down the cover and painted it silver. I got this idea from Jeff Kleiner. I think it looks great and it's affordable. I hope the paint will stick to the cover. It didn't seem like it bonded to well. Maybe it just needs some time to cure.


    Good looking rear end! ...
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 03:14 PM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  7. #167
    Senior Member Higgybulin's Avatar
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    Looks brand new!!
    Higgy

  8. #168
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    looks great I redid mine too using rattle can but I sanded and steel brushed every ounce of crud off of it to bare metal. Resealed it and used a girdle from ford performance parts svo. Old school and strong. Nice work its really coming along.

  9. #169
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Thanks guys! Reconditioning the old stuff sure takes up a lot of time. I'm ready to get this thing under the car and move onto something else.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  10. #170
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    We finished up the axle this weekend.

    Installed a new breather. Part number 4R3Z-4022-AA, if you are interested.


    The bearings and seals that came with the axle and the installation tool. If you don't have an installation tool, you can use a hammer, but this tool makes it a lot easier. Highly recommended.


    Bearings tapped in. I put a dab of grease on each of the bearings for "pre lube" to protect the bearings until the gear lube reaches them.


    Seals tapped in. Before sliding the axles into the seals, put a bit of grease on the seal to help the axle glide over the seal surface.


    Before we could insert the axle shafts, we had to mount the disc brake caliper bracket/emergency brake assemble. These parts are from Gordon Levy's 15" FFR brake kit. A very nice setup. Before you ask...no, my car will not have drum brakes , those are the emergency brakes; the disc brake calipers will mount to these brackets. Also in the picture are the Moser t-bolts that I purchased to replace the nasty old stock backing plate bolts. I tried locating some standard grade 8 fasteners locally, but no luck. Summit to the rescue again.


    Disc brake caliper bracket/emergency brake assemble mounted. I used the supplied lock washers, but also put a drop of loc-tite on these.
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 03:20 PM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  11. #171
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    The t-bolts from the backside...


    While I was at it, I purchased a new fill plug. This one has a magnet built into it's tip. Late model restoration #LRS-7860108.


    The boys received an education on running the hydraulic press. We pressed the wheel studs into the new axle shafts.


    The axle shaft slipped right into place. Make sure to support the shaft when you are sliding it in; don't let the whole weight of the shaft bear down on the seal, as it can mess it up.


    With the shaft pushed all the way in, drop the C-clips into the grooves in the end of the axle, then slide the axle outboard as far as possible.


    Drop the retention pin into the diff...


    Then insert that pesky pin retention bolt. Use Loctite if it doesn't already have it on the bolt.
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 03:26 PM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  12. #172
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Normally you would fill the axle thru the fill hole once it's under the car, but I was curious to see how full the housing is with 2.5 quarts of fluid. As it turns out...it's quite full. I poured in 2.5 quarts of 75W140 fully synthetic. We also added 4oz of friction modifier for maximum smokey burnout capability.


    Here's a pic showing how much fluid is in there. It's a little tough to see...


    We used RTV gasket maker to seal the cover to the housing and torqued the bolts. We have to let it sit for 24 hours before I can move it to avoid having the diff fluid contact the gasket and prevent it from curing properly.


    With that we are done with the axle rebuild. I have a few more parts to sell to meet my price goal of rebuilding the axle. Once I sell the parts, I will update the parts list below.

    Parts and Labor and Costs:
    Used axle, purchased locally: $150
    Summit Racing Axle Rebuild Kit (Bearings, shims, gasket) p/n: SUM-G7919K: $69.97
    Ford Racing 31 Spline Trac lok differential, p/n: M-4204-F318C: $259.35
    Ford Racing Racing 3.55 Ring and pinion set, p/n: M-4209-88355: $169.97
    Summit Racing 31 spline axle shafts, 29.00 long (bearings and seals), p/n: SUM-700123: $204.97
    Ford Breather, p/n: 4R3Z-4022-AA: $13.84
    Fill plug, LMR.com p/n: LRS-7860108: $9.99
    Lucas Oil Gear lube 75W140: $35.91
    Ford Racing Friction modifier, p/n: CM-19546-A1: $8.99
    Moser Engineering T-bolts, p/n: 838TK: $14.97
    POR 15 paint (Used two starter kits): $42.40
    Labor to install ring and pinion: $336.21

    TOTAL Parts and Labor: $1,316.57

    Recoup on old parts (sold on ebay):
    4.10 Ring and Pinion: $113.89
    28 Spline Trac Lok: $125.03

    Total recoup: 238.92

    Total cost to rebuild Axle: $1077.65
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 12-20-2019 at 11:20 AM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  13. #173
    Senior Member Higgybulin's Avatar
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    The kids did a nice job!! Looks like new!
    Higgy

  14. #174
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiggyMK4#???? View Post
    The kids did a nice job!! Looks like new!
    Higgy
    Yeah, I think for the next one I'll just sit back in the lawn chair with a cool beverage and let them work.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  15. #175
    Senior Member broku518's Avatar
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    Man, you will know the car to the last bolt and oil drop. That is just awesome!
    I am in a bit squeeze here, not working on that level.

    Plus, this weekend I was adjusting the steering column, and gave my 3y old the pliers to adjust it. He started banging on the vintage speedo gauge instead!
    Life is short, so start living it.
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-in-the-garage!
    delivery date: 10/31/2017, first start 2/24/2018, title and registration passed 6/22/2018

  16. #176
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by broku518 View Post
    Man, you will know the car to the last bolt and oil drop. That is just awesome!
    I am in a bit squeeze here, not working on that level.

    Plus, this weekend I was adjusting the steering column, and gave my 3y old the pliers to adjust it. He started banging on the vintage speedo gauge instead!
    LOL, the speedo was backwards. He's just trying to get it flipped back around.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  17. #177
    Senior Member broku518's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yama-Bro View Post
    LOL, the speedo was backwards. He's just trying to get it flipped back around.
    Haha, I guess so! Plus it doesn't work -need to calibrate them.
    Life is short, so start living it.
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-in-the-garage!
    delivery date: 10/31/2017, first start 2/24/2018, title and registration passed 6/22/2018

  18. #178
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Rear Brake installation:

    This is Gordon Levy's Wilwood brake kit for FFR 15" rims. They are 4 piston calipers with 12.19" discs and an internal emergency drum brake. They are as big as you can fit under the FFR Halibrand replicas. Very nice kit, with great instructions. These went on pretty easy.

    Fitting the rotor to the axle. The kit came with a rotor registration ring that was too big, so I'll have to get a smaller one. Summit to the rescue again. I'll do the final torqueing and loc-titing of the bolts once I get the new ring.


    Backside view of the caliper and emergency brake bracket...


    Brake caliper mounted...


    Brake caliper centered. I started with the recommended number of shims, which was two. The caliper appeared excessively far inboard. I had one of those sick-to-the-stomach feelings, thinking that I might have the wrongs axle shafts. I removed all the shims, and it turned out perfect. That was a close one, as there isn't any way to move the caliper any farther outboard.


    Both sides done...


    I dug out my 15" rims to check for interference...


    I measured, worst case, approx. .100" clearance with my feeler gages. Minimum per the instructions is .080", so we are good...
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 03:35 PM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  19. #179
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Banana bracket installation:

    I dug out all the parts to install the axle to the car. I examined each piece. When I held the banana bracket up to the axle I realized the clamshell clamp area was going to either be extremely tight, or not fit. I posted a question on this wonderful forum to see what everyone else was running into. See post Here. I got a lot of good answers and determined the direction I would go.

    3-Link install parts:


    My first step was to remove the weld spatter, burrs, and some paint from the inside of the clam shell internal diameter. I used a rough half round file....


    After cleaning up the ID, I placed the bracket on the axle tube. The fit was better, but it still has about .125" to .187" to be tightened down.


    The bolt holes didn't line up very good at all. I ended up lining it up with a couple bolts and running a .500" drill thru all the holes so I could get the bolts thru.


    I threaded the nuts on and tightened one at a time. It slowly squeezed the two halves together. These were very tight. I was starting to get worried about breaking the bolts off. (I'm still a little worried). But in the end, the part clamped down like others said it would in my question post.

    (EDIT: I ended up getting replacement bolts and nuts. I removed old bolt at a time and replaced them with the new bolts)


    The hole in the support bracket that goes to the front of the axle housing didn't line up either. The manual said this might happen. I drilled a 3/8" hole using the bracket as a guide. The bolt supplied by FFR was too short, so I ran to ACE, my local hardware store and got one that would work. A 2.25" long bolt may have been perfect, but all they had was 2.50"


    The solidly connected bracket to the axle. In the not so distant future, I will be adding the VPM brace to the banana bracket.
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 03:49 PM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  20. #180
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Question, Do your 4 bracket bolts need washers? (I don't know that set up, just asking.) And if you're concerned about the bolts, Grade-8 are stronger.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  21. #181
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    Question, Do your 4 bracket bolts need washers? (I don't know that set up, just asking.) And if you're concerned about the bolts, Grade-8 are stronger.
    I wondered the same thing. There weren't any washers in the pictures in the manual and I didn't see any in the parts bag. I don't think they'd have enough room at the head end of the bolt, but probably would on the nut side. I just followed the manual. The bolts from FFR are grade 8 already.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  22. #182
    Senior Member Higgybulin's Avatar
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    Great posts, question and assembly!! Hopefully getting my rear end in the next few weeks. Keeping this thread handy!
    Higgy

  23. #183
    Senior Member broku518's Avatar
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    Good job on the banana bracket!

    I noticed my rear brake pads aren't wearing the same way. The outside rotor is shiny, the back is only somewhat. I wonder if I need to put some spacers to line them up better. I hear people say, bed them in.
    For starter, I guess, I can remove the wheel and measure the actual gap on both sides to see...

    Good post!
    Life is short, so start living it.
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-in-the-garage!
    delivery date: 10/31/2017, first start 2/24/2018, title and registration passed 6/22/2018

  24. #184
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by broku518 View Post
    Good job on the banana bracket!

    I noticed my rear brake pads aren't wearing the same way. The outside rotor is shiny, the back is only somewhat. I wonder if I need to put some spacers to line them up better. I hear people say, bed them in.
    For starter, I guess, I can remove the wheel and measure the actual gap on both sides to see...

    Good post!
    Yeah, I would start by making sure the calipers are centered. That's easy enough to check.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  25. #185
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    We hit a milestone on Good Friday. We now have a rolling chassis! It was an exciting day. My Dad came over in the AM to help put it in. We spent the whole day working on it. By 5 o'clock that night the car was sitting on it's own four tires.

    We bolted the FFR lower control arm brackets to the axle housing. The axle is shown upside down in these pictures. The passenger's side...


    The driver's side...


    We bolted the FFR forged lower control arm to the axle housing. These are nice pieces. Has any one ever painted inside the letters?


    Installation of the VPM 3 link brace.
    I didn't weld the banana bracket to the axle tube, so I purchased one of these braces to strengthen the assembly. Like everyone else that has owned one of these says...it's a very nice part and very well made. The only thing I think would make it better is to have an assembled/exploded view in the instructions. The banana bracket needs to be tightened down and in it's final location before installing the VPM brace. The brace is shipped assembled in the same order that it goes on the axle. The first step is to insert the bushings in the ears of the housing. We used an undersized bolt and nut to squeeze the two sides together, but later realized the instructions call to do that with the large black rod end/bolt supplied with the part. That would have been quicker, but it worked fine either way.


    Then insert the large black rod end into the bushing.


    Assemble the parts as pictured, then simple adjust the brace's length so the holes line up and tighten the bolts down.


    When inserting the top bolt in the banana bracket, we also assembled the upper control arm.


    Continued in next post...
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 04:01 PM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  26. #186
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    (Continued from the previous post)

    Once we had the axle assembly ready, we lowered it down onto my ATV jack and wheeled it under the frame of the car...
    (Before doing this step, we cleaned the paint out the frame bolt holes and removed the pan hard bar bracket from the frame.)


    First we lined up the lower control arms and bolted them to the frame.



    Next we bolted the upper control arm to the frame...


    We reinstalled the pan hard bar bracket and drilled a hole and installed a bolt/nut where the lower part of the bracket joins the frame...


    We then installed the pan hard bar and assembled and installed the shocks.


    After getting everything assembled, we put the wheels on the car and lowered it to the ground. We adjusted the panhard bar to be as level as possible and adjusted the pinion angle to be 2° up, using my phone's level app. I expect to need to adjust this further as we add more weight to the frame and the ride height of the frame comes down.

    We have a roller!!!


    The boys were really hoping that we could take turns pushing each other up and down the street in the car. They were a little disappointed when I didn't share their enthusiasm for that idea.
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-17-2018 at 04:11 PM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  27. #187
    Member Scubasommer's Avatar
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    We have a roller!!!


    The boys were really hoping that we could take turns pushing each other up and down the street in the car. They were a little disappointed when I didn't share their enthusiasm for that idea.[/QUOTE]

    Looks good brother!
    Your boys still have young backs, knees, and a LOT of energy!!!!

    Keep up the great work
    Jimmy

  28. #188
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scubasommer View Post

    Looks good brother!
    Your boys still have young backs, knees, and a LOT of energy!!!!

    Keep up the great work
    Jimmy
    Thanks Man!
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  29. #189
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    Lookin' good man!

  30. #190
    Senior Member FLPBFoot's Avatar
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    Yama-Bro...FYI. At Build School they recommend shock body down on the backs and shock body up on the fronts. With the springs down on the back you can run into the e-brake cables getting pinched in the springs. Set the ride height at 4.5 inches and pinion angel should be 2 degrees down.

    Steve
    2nd MK4 #10639 received 3-19-23. Wife's version. Street Snake - IRS, Willwoods, no roll bars, no hood scoop, no stripes, Blue Print EFI 306 with AOD trans, and under car exhaust. Ford Eruption Green with saddle leather interior.
    1st build - Mk4 Roadster #9319, received 4-10-18. IL registration 8/6/19. Moser 8.8. 3 Link. Wilwood brakes. Blue Print 427, Holley 750, TKO 600, 0.64 OD. Paint Dec 2020. Ruby Red with Carbon Flash Black metallic stripes.

  31. #191
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ILPBFoot View Post
    Yama-Bro...FYI. At Build School they recommend shock body down on the backs and shock body up on the fronts. With the springs down on the back you can run into the e-brake cables getting pinched in the springs. Set the ride height at 4.5 inches and pinion angel should be 2 degrees down.

    Steve
    Thanks Steve, That's some good advice. I didn't really see a good reason to go the other way with the shocks until you posted this. I'll flip them over.

    Question on the pinion angle. I set it at 2° up per the manual. Are you saying that once I adjust the ride height to 4.5" it will end up being 2° down, or do I need to manually adjust that later? Or just check it.

    Thanks,

    Frank
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 04-06-2018 at 02:12 PM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  32. #192
    Senior Member FLPBFoot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yama-Bro View Post
    Thanks Steve, That's some good advice. I didn't really see a good reason to go the other way with the shocks until you posted this. I'll flip them over.

    Question on the pinion angle. I set it at 2° up per the manual. Are you saying that once I adjust the ride height to 4.5" it will end up being 2° down, or do I need to manually adjust that later? Or just check it.

    Thanks,

    Frank
    Sorry for any confusion....We had the car up on jack stands and set it at 2 degrees down. Then we set it down on the tires with 3 - 2 x 4s under the frame to get the 4.5" ride height. Then once down on the tires I think the pinion angle was close to the 2 degrees up the manual recommends. If you are on the tires and ride height close to the 4 or 4.5" recommended and you are at 2 degrees you are good.

    Steve
    2nd MK4 #10639 received 3-19-23. Wife's version. Street Snake - IRS, Willwoods, no roll bars, no hood scoop, no stripes, Blue Print EFI 306 with AOD trans, and under car exhaust. Ford Eruption Green with saddle leather interior.
    1st build - Mk4 Roadster #9319, received 4-10-18. IL registration 8/6/19. Moser 8.8. 3 Link. Wilwood brakes. Blue Print 427, Holley 750, TKO 600, 0.64 OD. Paint Dec 2020. Ruby Red with Carbon Flash Black metallic stripes.

  33. #193
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ILPBFoot View Post
    Sorry for any confusion....We had the car up on jack stands and set it at 2 degrees down. Then we set it down on the tires with 3 - 2 x 4s under the frame to get the 4.5" ride height. Then once down on the tires I think the pinion angle was close to the 2 degrees up the manual recommends. If you are on the tires and ride height close to the 4 or 4.5" recommended and you are at 2 degrees you are good.

    Steve
    No problem Steve! Thanks for clearing it up for me. I'll make the adjustments as you suggested. I'll check it again when the whole car is together.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  34. #194
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    I didn't get a lot done on the car this weekend. I had a few home projects that I had to steer my attention towards. I did have time to go back and do some double checking on my 15" rim clearance and install my rotor registration rings that I have been waiting to take delivery of.

    When I put the 17" rims on the axle, I noticed there wasn't a lot of space between the rim and the lower control arm / shock bracket. There is about .25" of gap. I feared this would get less and maybe even have some interference when the 15" rims where mounted. Here's a shot showing the clearance to the 17" rim...


    My fears were heightened because the axle shafts I'm using are about .1875" narrower than stock. Well, I got lucky on this one. The 15" rims have a ton of clearance. There must be a big difference in back spacing between the 15" and 17" rims? Or the width is a lot different? Either way, plenty of room



    After that, I installed my rotor registration rings on the axle shafts. My Wilwood brake kit came with rings that were too big for my axles, so I ordered these from Summit...Here


    Rotor on the axle. I mounted the calipers and loctited the bolts in their final position.
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-18-2018 at 08:51 AM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  35. #195
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Well, I made it to one of the frustrating moments in the build. Hopefully, you guys can point me in the right direction. I've been messing with getting everything adjusted properly with the rear axle over the last few weeks. I have the shocks off the car. I have the 4" tubes sitting on blocks that are 4.5" tall (ride height). The tires are sitting on the ground. I have the pinion angle set at 2° up, and I've centered the axle in the frame by adjusting the pan hard bar. I thought I finally had everything dead on, so I started lifting the frame up to reinstall the shocks. I discovered I can only raise the frame about an inch from ride height before the banana bracket hits hits the pan hard bar mounting bracket. I can't lift the frame high enough to get the shocks back in. I thought the pan hard bar bracket and banana bracket looked awfully close while we were assembling the rear end, but didn't think to much of it. Now, after making the pinion angle adjustments, it seems it's much closer and they are actually hitting. What did I do wrong? Is the banana bracket rotated too far back? Is there something wrong with the way we assembled the panhard bar bracket? Could one of these parts be made wrong? Could something else be put together wrong that causes this?Any advice would be appreciated.

    Here's what it looks like...Is this typical at ride height?







    Thanks,

    Frank
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 10-18-2018 at 08:54 AM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  36. #196
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    I have not made it that far myself, so cannot offer any specific help, but I wonder what lower links you have? Them being too long seems like the only thing that would cause this to me...

  37. #197
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeAIII View Post
    I have not made it that far myself, so cannot offer any specific help, but I wonder what lower links you have? Them being too long seems like the only thing that would cause this to me...
    I'm using the FFR forged lower links that come with the complete kit, so I wouldn't think that would be an issue.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  38. #198
    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    I remember the fit very close and it will hit when you take the weight off the suspension completely hanging the axle.

  39. #199
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    OK, I did a bunch of reading of old posts and think I misinterpreted the manual. It says the pinion angle should be 2° up. I have the front of my axle adjusted so the pinion is higher in the front and slopes down towards the back of the car. Basically, the front of the differential is pointing up. Now, if I'm understanding this right, I need to rotate the axle 4° so the front of the diff is actually pointing down 2°. I'm pretty sure that would take care of my bracket interference issue. Am I understanding this right? Thanks!
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 04-30-2018 at 08:35 AM.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  40. #200
    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    I didn't even mess with the pinion angle until I had the alignment done the first time. I had to adjust the amount of spacers under the transmission mount during the drive line angle adjustment and adjusting the 3 link. I got the spacers from Mike Forte. I used the Tremec toolbox App to get the drive line angle right.

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