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Thread: Hydrocarbons To Noise Saabaru Build Thread

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    Hydrocarbons To Noise Saabaru Build Thread

    Hi everyone! I'm really glad to become part of this community. I have been interested in building an 818 for years. With the front end and coupe updates, I'd become convinced it'd be my next major project. All that was left was for the pieces to fall into place. My background is not mechanical, but I enjoy wrenching, problem solving and driving like my pants are on fire! In preparation for this project, I bought a broken modern sport bike with "some sort of bad engine", dug into it and fixed it. I thought if I can't revive a fuel injected motorcycle, I have no business building a car. My garage is almost equipped enough for this project, but I expect the last pieces will come together without drama.


    I have been debating appropriate donors and searching craigslist/Copart/IAAI for accessible, reasonable donors. Finally, after 2 years, I finally found a "good" donor, and with my wife's understanding, pulled the trigger on a 2006 Saab 9-2x Aero (Saabaru).

    The car has 134,000 miles and an auto trans. Per the previous owner, the engine spun a bearing at 90k and was rebuilt with CP forged pistons, Manley forged rods, Cosworth bearings and forged crankshaft, 1000cc DW injectors and a 20g STI turbo. It also got SS headers, uppipe, downpipe and exhaust. The tuning is done with Tactrix Open Source.

    The down sides are it's an auto, and likely has a blown head gasket (hopefully just the gasket) based on overheating at idle after prolonged driving. There is no apparent mixing of oil and water. Also, the body and interior is beat up. It is not a looker (which is a good thing for me - drove the price down)!

    Up next is sourcing a 5MT to swap and a shop to work in, and ordering a kit! Though not necessarily in that order. I could use the garage, but my dear wife would much rather not, as she can accurately anticipate the amount of mess that I'll make.

    I hope to keep my build thread "clean", as in I won't ask esoteric questions here, but in their appropriate sub forums.
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    Last edited by Ipassgas; 05-28-2018 at 12:07 PM.

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    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Bonus points for buying the first donor with wirenuts under the hood. LMAO

    good luck with project, do you know if a reputable shop built the engine?
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ipassgas View Post
    I hope to keep my build thread "clean", as in I won't ask esoteric questions here, but in their appropriate sub forums.
    Thank you so much in advance for doing this. I'd bet 70% of the 818 knowledge on this forum is helplessly buried in 30+ page build threads, though it is getting better.

    As for tools and shop space, I can attest that virtually my entire build was done out of a 3-drawer craftsman hand box. There's a few things like tubing benders and drills that aren't regularly in there, and I took a few parts to work to weld or press something or another, but that was typically more out of convenience rather than necessity. IMHO, it was must more important to have a well stocked hardware store nearby than a world-class shop.

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    If wire nuts are good enough for my ceiling fan, they're good enough for my engine bay, right?

    The engine was rebuilt by the PO and his "retired aviation mechanic" buddy, in a shop (per the PO). I figure any information I have is way more than I would have gotten from Copart. Maybe it was done well. Maybe it wasn't. I'll never really know, unless/until something expensive fails catastrophically, or I decide to tear into the bottom end for some reason.

    Also, I think I found a transmission! I just need to get some time to go get it, probably next weekend, pending Hurricane Irma's impact.

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    And so I got a transmission. Actually, almost everything to convert the auto to manual. I still need a clutch, flywheel and starter, but that should be it. It's a TY754VN2AA, which looks like it's off a 2002 WRX. From reading the transmission thread, it should work.

    Also, I ordered my kit!!! Production date is 10/28/17, but I may have to move it if I go pick it up. Stewart Transportation hasn't called me back yet.

    Forward!!!!

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    Assuming it is indeed from a 2002 WRX you're fine. Make sure you order the proper year half-shafts with your kit, and the correct year clutch kit (the throw-out bearings and pressure plate are different on the earlier transmissions due to them being a pull type clutch slave.)
    Last edited by phil1734; 09-20-2017 at 07:18 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ipassgas View Post
    And so I got a transmission. Actually, almost everything to convert the auto to manual. I still need a clutch, flywheel and starter, but that should be it. It's a TY754VN2AA, which looks like it's off a 2002 WRX. From reading the transmission thread, it should work.

    Also, I ordered my kit!!! Production date is 10/28/17, but I may have to move it if I go pick it up. Stewart Transportation hasn't called me back yet.

    Forward!!!!
    I sent them the production order for mine last week as a response to our email thread and haven't heard back either. Wouldn't surprise me if they just got busy. They were really responsive when I was just asking questions, before I even placed my order. I'll probably call late this week if I don't get anything.

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    Today's update involves a call to FFR. I changed the half shafts on the order to the '02 so they'll match the trans.

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    Man, over a month without "progress". Well, progress has happened. My shop has been located and I moved a bunch of stuff to it. Stewart is supposed to deliver a car on Friday or Saturday, and I have some Kirkey seats on the way. (I decided to not order seats at first so I could decide exactly what I wanted). I just went with the FFR ones.

    And I got a bad misfire on the donor. Cylinder 4. I pulled the secondary air pump (that I was tossing anyway) and installed the air pump block off plates while I was working on it. Car still has a gnarly miss after preliminary investigation, and I've lost boost. It's going to need some work, before I can get to work.

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    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Gassyman, Welcome to the forum. I've upgraded your account for full access so you can use the pic gallery and update your profile.

    Interesting user ID. Sure you wouldn't rather go by Saabaru?

    Have fun with your build; another one pushing the envelope. Happens a lot around here!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


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    Christmas came early!



    I didn't have time to inventory, so that'll happen today or tomorrow.
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    Last edited by Ipassgas; 11-13-2017 at 12:25 PM.

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    Woohoo!!

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    Senior Member shinn497's Avatar
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    I have a question! Where are you building it? It looks like a warehouse park of some sort. Is that correct?

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    Quote Originally Posted by shinn497 View Post
    I have a question! Where are you building it? It looks like a warehouse park of some sort. Is that correct?
    That is exactly where I'm building it. My wife said no to the garage (too many cars, and I'll make too much mess). So I found an offsite shop. It's 800 sq ft, with electric (one 240 circuit, two 120 circuits). No water, heat or AC. It's 5 minutes from work, and "cheap". The whole complex is probably a dozen units. Mine's the smallest. There is also a full time Honda mechanic, a surfboard/paddleboard maker, a guy who has a "buy here, pay here" place that fixes his personal collection, and a "motorcycle club" headquarters. It should be more than I need to get this car built!

    And as for progress, I have successfully removed all the fiberglass parts from the frame and inventoried 2 whole boxes! Man, I wish I didn't have to work.
    Last edited by Ipassgas; 11-16-2017 at 08:24 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ipassgas View Post
    I hope to keep my build thread "clean", as in I won't ask esoteric questions here, but in their appropriate sub forums.
    Someone please get this man an award! He actually knows how to use a forum!

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    Senior Member shinn497's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ipassgas View Post
    That is exactly where I'm building it. My wife said no to the garage (too many cars, and I'll make too much mess). So I found an offsite shop. It's 800 sq ft, with electric (one 240 circuit, two 120 circuits). No water, heat or AC. It's 5 minutes from work, and "cheap". The whole complex is probably a dozen units. Mine's the smallest. There is also a full time Honda mechanic, a surfboard/paddleboard maker, a guy who has a "buy here, pay here" place that fixes his personal collection, and a "motorcycle club" headquarters. It should be more than I need to get this car built!

    And as for progress, I have successfully removed all the fiberglass parts from the frame and inventoried 2 whole boxes! Man, I wish I didn't have to work.
    That is awesome!

    How did you find such a park? I have considered getting a warehouse too but I don't think you can use storage places, as they do no allow it.

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    Man, it's been nearly a month, and I feel like I have nothing to show for it.

    Shinn, the warehouse park is behind a strip mall. I found this one on craigslist in the commercial for rent section. Most towns of any size have a bunch of these. Usually, they are just off a main artery, and frequently behind something "customer facing". The access is good, but the visibility is bad. Too noisy for housing, and too hard to see for retail. So these get built. Use Google maps satellite imaging and look along the major roads in your town. Once you know what you're looking for, you'll see them.


    I don't have nothing to show for the last month. I inventoried every box, and the only thing I'm absolutely certain is missing is the Rivnut tool.

    I also got some air lines plumbed in the shop, so I have air! Yea!

    More importantly, I got the Kirkey seats I bought from a member here. It was a mess, because the shipping I arranged lost them for 3 weeks. They're here now, so that's great!
    And I got the frame to and from the powder coater. They ran out of my powder (RAL 5005) so I don't have the firewalls or brackets back yet. They promised this week, but since it's Wednesday afternoon, I'm not holding my breath.

    Attachment 77774Attachment 77775Attachment 77777Attachment 7777620171207_104617.jpg20171207_104619.jpg20171207_112508.jpg20171207_114626.jpg20171207_114632.jpg

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    Senior Member DSR-3's Avatar
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    The "Riv-Nut tool" consists of a hole in the end of the spring-perch adjuster tool and a 1/4-20 screw and nut... Do yourself a favor and get at least a mid-range tool. The cheapo ones may not last through the build, and the nice ones are pretty(or very!) spendy.

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    I got distracted by the holidays, and another obligation. I'm back though, and should be making consistent progress for the foreseeable future.

    Since the last update, I got the car on its side, riveted on the floors, fought with gravity and the pneumatic riveter, and finally got it centered on my lift. Next up: firewalls.
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    Last edited by Ipassgas; 03-30-2018 at 11:37 AM.

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    Frame and floor pans look great. Only comment is that you REALLY have that floor pan on there now.... depending on the seat brackets and seat belts you want to put in, you may need to take that floor pan off. I used rivetnuts to attach mine because I have to take it off to remove my seats.

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    I didn't powder coat my frame, so I'm "lucky" there that I'm going to weld brackets that my seats can bolt to. Once I decided that, I crawled on my back and put the floor up before the engine went in, and man, that sucked too.

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    It's been way too long, but I'm still at it, just slowly.

    Front firewall is riveted and cleco. I got some aluminum LCAs and drilled and fitted the shock mount. The drilling should have been quick and easy. It was neither.20180329_114154.jpg20180328_131354.jpg

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    I've had to go back, to go forward. I was having so much fun with the (running, driving) Saabaru, I had been using it 3x per week, until a tire failed (horribly bald) or I had to start taking parts. Basically, both happened at the same time.
    So I've been stripping the donor.

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    Last edited by Ipassgas; 05-15-2018 at 08:28 AM.

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    The latest progress has me putting "go" parts on, finally. The LCAs went in pretty well, but the instructions said to use the donor mounting hardware. I have the donor bolts for the silver part, but no nuts. I double checked, and the Subaru nuts were welded to the donor. Unless I missed something, I need to buy some nuts.

    Also, I got the upper A arms in. That was a struggle, because they didn't fit. The holes were perfectly aligned, but the gap was too small to allow the A arms into their welded bracket. I used some grease, some force and some tools to get them in.

    Apparently a car is built 10 minutes at a time. At least this one is.
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    Last edited by Ipassgas; 05-28-2018 at 12:15 PM.

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    The nuts come from one of the strut bolts previously at the top of the knuckle. Doesn't really matter which, they're all the same.
    Last edited by phil1734; 05-28-2018 at 06:59 AM.

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    I think I pried my brackets apart there ever-so-slightly, and then tightened the bolts to squeeze them back down.

    10 minutes at a time sounds about right. Just wait until you get the engine/trans in. Then it's some REALLY slow going.

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    Todays update had me going back, to go forward (again).

    I skipped the "take apart the front CV axles" because it was a messy, messy job. And like many others, I was having a hell of a time with them. The instructions say to tap the outer piece off the axle. I clamped the axle in a vise, and tapped. And tapped. And tapped. As it happens, I have a pair of spare axles, so I figured if I wreck something, I have a spare. I kept the axle in the vise, took a 4" section of 2x4 and set it on the final drive segment. Using a 24 oz framing hammer, I wailed on the 2x4. After 3 whacks, I saw some splines emerge, as there was movement. 3 whacks later, it was off. The other axle was undone in the same way, but with 2 whacks.

    The ball bearings and races did not want to come out, but with some screwdriver persuasion, I managed to remove the balls and races, the cleaned out the grease.

    While this was happening, I painted the spindles (axle bearing carrier, in Subaru parlance).
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    Last edited by Ipassgas; 06-08-2018 at 10:26 AM.

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    This update contains purchase of tires (Falken Azensis 215/40/17 front, 265/35/18 rear) as recommended by Phil1734 in the wheel and tire thread.

    My Exedy KSB03 clutch and a 12 lb Chromoloy flywheel came, along with a Gates timing belt kit.

    The front end is coming together, as I've now installed the axle bearing carrier and shocks. The shock collar didn't want to go over the cylinder smoothly, but half a shot of WD-40 solved that without complication.

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    Great to see someone taking my advice! For what it's worth, at a very wet and sloppy Auto-X this past weekend the regular guys (who know roughly where they should finish in their class) running the Falkens were much closer than typical to the guys running Bridgestones and Michelins.

    Also if you didn't, adjust the front spring perch so it's about 2.5-2.75 inches up from the bottom of the threaded sleeve, 3.75" on the rears. They're a pain in the *** to adjust later with the spanner so you want to save that for the fine-tuning of ride height. And don't forget to tighten/loosen the set screw in the perch as required.

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    I fell way behind on this page, but the blue Saabaru has been moving forward.

    First off, the front end is done. The steering rack is depowered.

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    The timing belt and water pump was replaced. I had a helper for this stage.

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    I got the engine in. I thought I could get it in with the oil filter and headers on the block. I couldn't.

    20180917_132959.jpg

    I put the flywheel on and clutch (since I'm switching the auto to a 5MT).

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    I put the rear end together.

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    I put the pedal box in.

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    I also put in my brake booster. Like TurboMacnCheese, I'm trying to get weak power brakes, since it sounds like there is an issue with the stock booster (too touchy), and the manual brakes (too hard). I settled on the Geo Metro booster. It bolts straight up. No modification. None. The rod is bit short, but the auto brake rod has a longer clevis, that I put on it. I have no idea if it'll work, or how well. I'll tell you in many months.
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    More booster pictures.

    20180607_182117.jpg20180607_182126.jpg

    I also put the steering wheel in.

    20181024_140930.jpg

    And the drive by wire accelerator pedal.

    20181024_140920.jpg

    And here we are.
    If you guys want more explanation or pics, let me know. I'll do a better job of staying up to date.

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    I can't wait to see how that booster goes. The master is all wrapped up and I forget...was that from the geo, too?

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    The master is from the Geo. But I think I'm going to change it. The Geo has tiny wheel cylinders, and I'm concerned about the amount of fluid the master cylinder pushes. I'll probably see if I can put the Subaru master on the Geo booster. Probably. I'll start a brake thread at some point, and link it here.

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    So some more progress pics:

    I put the Holly Hydramat into the tank. Unfortunately, it didn't fit. I cut the hanger for the pump and now, it fits! I riveted the hanger back together with a piece of metal from . . . something Subaru.

    20181024_142429.jpg20181102_101814.jpg


    I moved onto the ABS system. I had no great idea for how to attach the ABS module to the car. So, I modified the stock bracket. I cut a bit out the bracket, and bent it into a more useful shape.

    20181121_144912.jpg20181121_145424.jpg

    But now, where to put it. Hmm.
    So, the best I could come up with: bolt it to the firewall, below the clutch slave. (I also ran the brake lines.)

    20181126_151024.jpg20181128_120251.jpg

    At this point, I decided I need hydraulics to work. So, I filled and bled both systems. Brakes went perfect. Got the air out, calipers bite, soft pedal though. I won't hazard a guess as to how the Geo booster/master cylinder will work. (I'm a little worried.)
    Anyway, the clutch hydraulic system didn't go well. I realized I was missing parts, and got them from Exedy and my friendly neighborhood Subie dealer. So then, I bled the system, and nothing happened at the slave. Nothing. So I asked my neighbor mechanic for his ideas. That turned into 2 neighbor mechanics. Neither of which were familiar with the 2002 WRX 5MT and the pull type transmission in general. We ended up removing the transmission, and one insisted I had the wrong parts, because the pull type clutch can't exist.
    Anyway, out of better ideas, I got a new clutch master cylinder. I put it on, flushed it, and it did the same thing; nothing. I then take a deep breath, and re-evaluate. I lengthened the rod for the master to pedal connection. Now, the slave does something. Not much. But something. So I lengthen the rod. And now it mostly works. With a bit more fiddling, I got it right.

  36. #35
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    Moving to the transmission: I followed the directions, and remembered to remove the bearing race.

    20181128_120907.jpg20181128_123134.jpg20181128_123733.jpg20181128_125819.jpg20181128_123212.jpg20181202_103328.jpg


    And that brings us to today. Wiring. Wiring, is a dirty, tedious job. But I can now read a wiring diagram. So win?
    Seriously, I didn't do this right. K3LAG (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...d-thread/page3) starting with post 90 outlines how to do this. I labeled every connector by what it did and/or where it was. Subaru sort of did that too. But they put it in a big 150 pg organized document. It's called a wiring diagram. So now I'm mostly going back to my labels, and using a sharpie to label them like Subaru did. I would have saved a bunch of time in aggregate, if I'd used the diagram from the beginning. I didn't, because I didn't know better, and I didn't know how to read a wiring diagram.

    I'm moving forward.


    20181213_151932.jpg20181213_152248.jpg

  37. #36

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    You have to develop the skill to just look at one wire at a time. Take in the whole mess and you get overloaded. Like not eating a plate of spaghetti in one bite...

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    Man, picking up the wiring diagram sounds like it was good advice. Kudos to whoever convinced you

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    I'm still plugging away on the wiring. It's getting close. Real close. And I think I FUBARed the EEPROM I was trying to reset to 0 miles. But there is a plan to solve it.

    Since I was looking for a satisfying win, I started on the cooling system. Running the pipes didn't take a ton of time, but were a solid win.
    Also, I finished the rear firewall. The manual says to rivet the center panel, but that would mean moving every wire through the hole to remove rear firewall. I figured I didn't want that. My original plan was rivnuts, but Turbomacncheese pointed out that the metal is pretty thick, and not under stress. So I just tapped the steel. It worked like a charm.


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    I don't know if you've already adjusted them, but the front end of the cooling pipes have to be almost inside the corner section of the cabin so they don't hit the wheels at full lock. I'm hoping I can get my ABS module and brakes plumbed and working soon as well. How's the pedal feel on your setup?

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  44. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ipassgas View Post
    ... but Turbomacncheese pointed out that the metal is pretty thick, and not under stress. So I just tapped the steel. It worked like a charm.
    Really glad that worked out. I was just thinking out loud, but I guess it has to be on my plan, now.

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