Meyer 818 build in Tampa Bay Area

[Scott Meyer]

Greetings!

Returning to the Factory Five family and “we” are building our 2nd FFR.

I say “we” loosely as this is my son’s (Liam) build he is doing for his Engineering Capstone project and one heck of a design portfolio for college admissions. My wife and I are funding his dream.

A little about us...we started building a roadster back in 2008 when my son was 5 1/2 years old. Graduated in 2010...sold it late in 2011.

https://www.ffcars.com/threads/pleas...rad-28.251449/

Ended up restoring a few daily drivers after that (with full new leather interior and repainted myself).

And then I got back into Aviation. Fulfilled my 2nd lifelong dream and built my own airplane from a kit made by Sonex (based in Oshkosh, WI).

h ttps://sonexbuilders.net/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=706

After building, owning and flying this for over 6 years, I sold N629SX last fall...and now own a 1966 Cessna 182J that am slowly restoring (certified aircraft are much harder, and expensive to work on).

So fast forward to a few weekends ago when we pulled the trigger on the 818S project. We bought a running daily driver 2007 2.5l Impreza Wagon, with just over 104k on the odometer. I drove the car home about 50 miles and felt confident it was running well and no major issues. That night my son began the tear down.
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He’s documenting his work via instagram and some other social media thing teenagers are good at. Follow him on IG at “meyer818racing”

http://https://www.instagram.com/p/CEmGjjfBq9S/?igshid=y51370f74vca

The kit will be a street car / show car (as he calls it). Ordered the carbon fiber splitters, spoiler, black FFR wheels, wipers, trunk kit and soft top. Expected completion date from FFR is 11/7/20.

Can’t wait to see his progress and get the kit here. His friends from high school have been over almost every night assisting with the donor tear down. Biggest challenge I’ve seen is “organization, cataloging and labeling”. He’s taking lots of pictures and I’m trying to act mostly as technical advisor.

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[Rob T]

Welcome. I wish I could have had that kind of opportunity when I was young. How awesome. Good luck.

[idf]

Great project. My son built an 818 with me when he was in high school. He is now just up the highway from you at Case Western where he is a junior ME major and active member of the Baja SAE team. I'm sure he would be glad to lend any advice or assistance he can.

[Frank818]

Welcome, man!

What made you pull the trigger on the 818? And why the S vs the C?

[egchewy79]

Awesome! I'm in Dublin as well. Currently working on a MK4. just had my first start. Would love to see the project sometime

[Scott Meyer]

Thanks for all of the welcomes and replies! egchewy79, we should get meet up! I finished my Mk 3 here in Dublin 10 years ago...would be great to see where you’re at with the build. Let me know if you need any help with body work or paint? I did my own and then refinished two cars and an airplane after my Roadster build.

[Scott Meyer]

Welcome, man!

What made you pull the trigger on the 818? And why the S vs the C?

Frank,

It’s not going to be a daily driver, and the soft top makes it a good compromise. Finally my wife said “oh, you’ve got to build a convertible...” so who can argue with that. She ultimately said “just do it”! She remembers the pain the Cobra was without a top, but loves open air cars.

[egchewy79]

Thanks for all of the welcomes and replies! egchewy79, we should get meet up! I finished my Mk 3 here in Dublin 10 years ago...would be great to see where you’re at with the build. Let me know if you need any help with body work or paint? I did my own and then refinished two cars and an airplane after my Roadster build.

I was planning on having Jeff Kleiner to my body and paint.
PM me if you want to meet up to take a look at the project. I'd be glad to hear some tips from a seasoned pro.

[Scott Meyer]

I was planning on having Jeff Kleiner to my body and paint.
PM me if you want to meet up to take a look at the project. I'd be glad to hear some tips from a seasoned pro.

You can’t go wrong with Jeff! Good choice...I met Jeff back in 2008 at Gateway Raceway in STL and quickly became a friend.

[Scott Meyer]

Welcome, man!

What made you pull the trigger on the 818? And why the S vs the C?

Hi this is Liam, I don't have my own account yet but here's the reasoning, living in Midwest Ohio it didn't seem fitting to get the C, we chose the S for a few reasons.

It's easier to build the S (this is my first time ever really building a car), it was the cheaper option, it's going to be a show car/ weekend car so we'll hopefully have a nicely done interior to show off, and I liked the look of the S more over the C, the C is beautiful, but I love convertibles and it's going to be a summer car so no reason to put a roof on it.

[Scott Meyer]

Major progress tonight, the drivetrain is OUT! Darn rusted bolts on the suspension lower brace frame, and engine mount frames made this really enjoyable...not. Heat, breaker bar and a sawzall became our savior.

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Liam also removed all of the interior and wiring harness yesterday.

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Also have become a new customer of RockAuto.com. Have ordered and received all new aluminum lower control arms, all four brake calipers, flywheel, clutch, timing belt and water pump kit and new oil pan (exist one is pretty rusty). Also got replacement plugs, wires and gaskets for the engine so Liam can do a cosmetic tear down and paint clean up. We are sending the oil sample to Blackstone labs to get a baseline on our 2.5i NA engine which has 104,000 miles.

[Frank818]

RockAuto has some great deals on many parts, they ship usually fast and they have a surprising way to handle order issues, like if you received something damaged, missing or wrong part... it's extremely efficient! I received 6 plugs, 2 were the wrong part #, I went through their online questionnaire, all was flawless, they shipped the missing 2 plugs without asking for anything and shipped within 24h if I recall.

I reckon their website SUCKS, it's very very very old UI, but it works.

[Scott Meyer]

A little more progress this week. After further investigation of the rear suspension I’ve ordered all three new LCA’s for both rear wheels. On my previous build (Mk 3.1 roadster) I did a complete kit...and the difference between all new suspension parts and trying to recondition 13 year old Midwest/east coast rust is a no brainer. We will clean and repaint the spindles and go to new parts from there.

Liam started tearing down the engine intake and coolant cross tube, and I’ve introduced him to an air power angle die grinder with the mini disc pads. He’s been having fun cleaning up the engine and transmission. Also have the front struts removed.

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Now I get to help with some of my skills, laying down some paint on the coolant tube and intake.

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As we continue to prepare the donor parts...we started asking some questions this week amongst ourselves...and wanted to ask the FFR forum community.

How hard is it to keep these OEM features:
1. Power steering (is it even needed - or follow build manual?)
2. Power brakes / ABS? Or stick with converted brake master cylinder?
3. Retaining the A/C and using the Vintage Air system nicely documented by AZPete?
4. How do you flash out / reprogram the ECU to remove items not used in the build (Air bags, electronics, etc)?

We just got a repair manual today with wiring diagrams...and after wiring up my roadster and experimental Sonex aircraft this doesn’t freak me out (the wiring and wire diet).

Thanks,
Scott

[Ajzride]

1) I don't think power steering is needed, I have no trouble turning mine, even in parking lots. I can't imagine a healthy teenager would have any issues
2) Very few have done power brakes, definitely not needed if you lose ABS. I don't know how ABS would affect the feel of the pedal.
3) Vintage Air is well documented, easiest route. I used Restomod Air because I wanted excess cooling capacity, it's hot in Houston.
4) RomRaider is the open source solution for tuning the ECU and disabling CEL codes. Requires a Subaru specific cable which is about $100. http://www.romraider.com/index.php/D...tion/TuningFAQ

[Jetfuel]

Totally agree with AJ's comments with the exception of the a/c...it's a convertible... but I may be partial to them since 3 out of my 4 rides are convertibles not counting my bride's not top car.lol
I have a hard top for mine but it's only used when the temps go down not up.
You're just down the road Scott and if I get an invite I'll love to see this project and may even try to talk Art Quillen into a short drive that way..

Jet

[Scott Meyer]

Thanks Jet! Yeah we’d love to come see your 818’s over in Indy. I have a Cessna 182 that we could fly over to visit some weekend if that’s okay? Our kit is not scheduled to arrive until mid-Nov pending Stewart Transports schedule. We considered driving to Wareham and renting a Trailer to tow the kit home...but my wife and son drive to Providence last summer (2019) and she said it was the drive from hell, without a trailer.

[Scott Meyer]

Thanks AJ! Good to bounce ideas and check with actual builders!

We’ve ordered the soft top, and summers here in Columbus OH can be pretty brutal and humid...even with the top off A/C feels good!

[Mark Eaton]

Scott, Thanks for starting this thread I will be following closely as I am starting a similar build (818C) with my teenager(14yo). You two clearly have more build experience than Nick and I so I will probably be rattling your chain for advice from time to time!

Mark

[Jetfuel]

Heck yeah...just VFR to KEYE and it's always in the parking lot of the FBO...or I'll drive your way..lol

Jet

[AZPete]

Scott, it was easy to add power steering. All I did was take the donor lines to a hydraulic shop so they could put the ends on the longer lengths I needed. Then, I used the donor rack, pump & reservoir. I did it to see if I could and it worked nicely, but probably not necessary.

For ABS, I duplicated the donor system and it worked very well, especially when a Prius stumbled out of a hidden driveway one day! I think ABS is sort of like seat belts - totally useless until suddenly needed.

[aquillen]

Scott, I'm enjoying your build too. Heck I like everyone of them. Would be fun for me and Jet to both drive over, or if you "drop" (OMG not literally) into Eagle Creek Airport I'd run down to join the fun.

[Scott Meyer]

Scott, I'm enjoying your build too. Heck I like everyone of them. Would be fun for me and Jet to both drive over, or if you "drop" (OMG not literally) into Eagle Creek Airport I'd run down to join the fun.

Art and Jet, lets do it! I’m just in the final stages are redoing the interior on our 182...trying to make a 54 year old aircraft look new! What does your schedules look like over the next couple of weekends while the “fall” weather is beautiful? It’s a 1-hour flight from KMRT (Union County Airport) and I can shoot the instrument approach into Eagle Creek for proficiency!

Some pictures of my other project...my wife is doing The sewing.

Before:
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In-progress...
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Installed with new carpet and sound deadening pad:
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[Jetfuel]

Scott. Check your in box

Jet

[Scott Meyer]

Nice talking to you yesterday Jet! If the weather looks good we’ll be there for Oct. 10! I took my wife up to Port Clinton today to have lunch at the Tin Goose Diner and visit the Liberty Aviation Museum. The interior of N2800F is coming back together.
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[Jetfuel]

Same here Scott..looking forward to see you here for the Pumpkin 10K cruise..
If you feel the need for another flight adventure check the Wright Brothers B flyer hangar over at Dayton airport (KMGY) way cool ... they may even let you fly it...

Jet

[Sdonnel]

Hey Scott,
Welcome back. My son, Zach and I met you way back in 08. Awesome to see you building another FFR. Zach and I built a mk4 a couple years back. Now he’s on to a 93 RX-7. Tell Liam we said hello. Your ever patient wife as well.

Scott & Zach Donnelly

[Scott Meyer]

Hey Scott,
Welcome back. My son, Zach and I met you way back in 08. Awesome to see you building another FFR. Zach and I built a mk4 a couple years back. Now he’s on to a 93 RX-7. Tell Liam we said hello. Your ever patient wife as well.

Scott & Zach Donnelly

Hi Scott, I remember our trip to Mid-Ohio to watch the Indy 200. Is Zach a Junior or Senior now? Do you guys still have the Mk. 4? Thanks for saying hello!

[Chris @ Forma]

our first project was an 818 about 4 years ago. We are also in the neighborhood. If you need any assistance, don't hesitate as we are only 8 miles down the road. I70 & I270. We built ours with an EFR 72/63 turbo and we make over 300 lb-ft of torque at 3500 rpm...crazy quick. Reach out if you need anything.

[Scott Meyer]

Good evening 818 forum guru's! Helping Liam tonight with some of the front suspension tear down. Some success and a lot of frustration. 13 y.o. rust has not been kind to the subie subframe/suspension on our donor.

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That's why we have new Aluminum LCA's!

Trying to separate the transaxle from the engine. All of the connecting bolts are removed, started is removed and the clutch slave cylinder also removed. Both front axles removed from trans.
It's a 2007 Impreza...so even the Haynes manual says there is no other items to separate (like the pre-2005 retaining pin on the throw out fork for clutch. We cannot get the transaxle to budge free.

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Also...when you round over the frozen head of the LCA ball joint retaining bolt, how do you get this out of the spindle knuckle? I asked Liam to take it to school tomorrow and work with his Engineering Capstone teacher to see if they can work on it.

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Thanks for the help and any pointers/tips

And one last teaser photo. Scuffed up the glossy VHT high temp red on the intake and shot it with some Satin Clear tonight.

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[Bob_n_Cincy]

The pinch bolt on the lower ball joing can be a bear.
1. Soak in for a couple of days with PB Blaster.
2. Weld a nut to head so you can get somw torque on it.
3. heat and cool the boat a few times with a torch. The expansion contraction seems to break down the rust (glue).
I've done about 6 of these. After you have the bolt out, you are only half way done. The hard part is removing ball joint. I have a special tool for this, You can barrow.
Bob

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ACK53SN3GY

[Scott Meyer]

Thanks Bob...

Edit: (regarding the engine/transaxle separation)
Liam posted some "HELP" requests on the Ohio Subie Club FB page, and got some tips (screw driver or drive pin and hammer at joint to engine)
The guide pins and the input shaft were frozen together, The 2006-07 transaxles do not have the throw out fork retaining pin that causes issues for removal.

SUCCESS!!!!

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The engine and transaxle are now separated. We went ahead and removed the clutch and flywheel and installed the engine on the stand.

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That transaxle is a lot heavier than the Tremec 5-speed on my Roadster I used with the 4.6L DOHC mod motor. I guess it's all of the extra stuff for AWD!?!?

Anyway, the front is pretty much torn down and we just have those two pesky pinch bolts for the LCA ball joint.

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He's just about ready to drop the rear subframe / transaxle and rear suspension out of the donor.

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[Sdonnel]

Zach is a sophomore in college and a Senior Airman in the Air Guard. Fixes F-16 engines. We sold our Mk 3.1 to build a Mk4.
Seems like yesterday when we were at the track. Project looks great. Definitely watching your progress.

Scott

[DSR-3]

Great family/school project!
*I have a nice donor steering rack that you can have for shipping if you need or want it.

[Scott Meyer]

Beginning of October 2020 weekly update.

Tried a few more methods with those pesky spindle knuckle pinch bolts. Got an awesome set of bolt extractor sockets and managed to separate the bolt head from the threads! Didn’t realize I was that strong...LOL Also trying Flickr please let me know if photos come through.

As much as I wanted to reuse and restore the donor suspension....I’m ordering new knuckles, hubs and bearings. We want to keep this car in the family for years to come and the rust is too much to deal with and not worth my time.

Liam was able to get the rear suspension and differential out of the car on Friday.



And now the engine...we are about 90% convinced to go ahead and remove the heads, have them machined and replace the head gaskets while we are at this point. There’s evidence they are starting to leak and that’s a known issue with the EJ253 SOHC engines. Thoughts? We found a recommended machine shop nearby from a mechanic I trust.





And last question for today...what’s the purpose of drilling the brake pedal up 1/2”? Wouldn’t that move the fulcrum further away from force and require more punching power in the leg to activate the manual brakes?

[AZPete]

Pics look good. Except for the rust, of course. And, I had a leaking head gasket problem that required a flatbed ($$$), teardown and machine shop work on the valves and heads, so I agree that you should do it now to avoid the stress, time and coin later.

[RPGs818SNA]

The fulcrum for the brake pedal is where it is attached at the top, so moving the hole for the load up half an inch increases the leverage, making it somewhat easier to apply force to the brake master cylinder. Check the clearance before drilling. I drilled my hole a little too far rearward and had to do some grinding to make the clevis swing freely.

[Scott Meyer]

The fulcrum for the brake pedal is where it is attached at the top, so moving the hole for the load up half an inch increases the leverage, making it somewhat easier to apply force to the brake master cylinder. Check the clearance before drilling. I drilled my hole a little too far rearward and had to do some grinding to make the clevis swing freely.

Thank you for the feedback.

[Scott Meyer]

Appreciate the “heads up” Pete!

Liam is getting things organized and hopefully keeping track of how he took everything apart!

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And my contribution to the organization...$$$

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[Scott Meyer]

Well my son (and a little help from me) now has the donor completely stripped!

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Still a few sub-assemblies to tear down like rear axles from rear diff...and it made me think today, has anyone bought the complete axle set from FFR? Are they a decent quality? The labor and mess to tear these apart and insert the kit axles doesn’t seem worth it to not spend the $110 +/- FFR is asking for complete axles with the CV joints ready to go.

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We also removed the heads last weekend and sent those to a local shop Monday. He’s doing a complete clean up, planning of deck, leak down check, and will reseat the valves if needed (also remove and reinstall Cam and reset valve clearance).

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I started doing the POR-15 treatment on the pedal box!

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[Scott Meyer]

Update for the week. Not a lot of actual work going on but started to prep the new replacement parts. Pressed my first hub together and forgot the outer wheel grease seal. Oops. Got it fixed and the first front hub is pressed together with the retaining snap ring and both seals!

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Pedal box is done with new WRX covers installed!

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And ordered tubular unequal length headers for NA 2.5i engine.

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Talked to the machine shop this week and they said our heads had no cracks and no leaks! They just need to plane the surface and clean the valves and set the gap/lash. Hopefully get those back next week.

And most important update...our kit is now fully paid for and should be ready to ship in about 2-weeks!