Help engine missing

[Joee]

That is prob the 90mm Lightening could be calibrated for 42lb inj. Go here and scroll down to 3rd post great pic of different injectors. Not sure on black ones I only used Ford.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...issues.854773/

Did the motor run well when you got it?

[Just puttering]

The last time i drove it when it was out of state was in june. It ran fine but might stall on you when you come to a stop. Then it sat for 4 months before i had it brought up to me. The car hauler was a jerk i hope that has nothing to do with this. The car would not run right from the moment he was driving it off the truck. So i can not say exatly when and how it started doing this.

The maf sensor disconnected makes it run worse if you can tell the difference.
It may run better when cold than when wormed up.
At 12 to 1500 rpms the sputtering is mild give it a little more throttle and it seems to jump to 5 to 6000 and a loss of traction
The tps is set to 1.11 volts, it runs better set higher.
At this point it may be throw more parts at it and hope for some change?

[Just puttering]

image.jpg picture of one of the injectors i will try to look for numbers later

[Just puttering]

Not that it may mean much but it smells like it runs rich.

[Joee]

Was the megasquirt controling in it when you drove it months ago? Your comment that it runs better cold also points to an ECM problem. When engine cold it runs in closed loop, not much ECM feedback.

Before you start throwing money at this can you get it to a good tuner? Perhapse this can all be fixed with a chip being burnt for your setup. It may also reveal what is not right in the system.

[Just puttering]

I will try to find a tuner in my area

[Joee]

I will try to find a tuner in my area

Good do some research you want/need a Foxbody raceshop your motor is up there in performance. You may want to become a member on some of the Mustang sites to find the right tuner. https://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l...em-sticky.html

Most guys shy away from a chip because it limits future performance up grades, in your case that should be a non issue. A blown 347 with solid lifters and hot cam should be all the hp and torque you need for quite some time.

[Big Blocker]

Quote: " i had it brought up to me. The car hauler was a jerk i hope that has nothing to do with this. The car would not run right from the moment he was driving it off the truck."

FWIW, My son sold his Mustang to a guy in another state. The car hauler (or his employees) liked the idea of a race car to play with and must have (no proof) romped the hell out of it before it was run up on the truck for out-of-state delivery. Never turned on the electric fans for cooling. When the new owner got the car the engine had been over heated and the crank frozen, would not turn over. Car was in perfect condition when it was dropped off at the car haulers site, we drove it there with witnesses. Hauler said they don't start the cars except to drive them on the trailer. New owner took pictures of everything on the car and we stated that the car must have been "abused" by the hauler and he should take it up with them for any claims.

Not saying that your choice of haulers did what happened to me but if the car was running perfect before you dropped it off . . . just sayin'

The stalling when slowing down or stopping might be related to the VSS sensor at the transmission not sending signals to the A9L, letting it know you are slowing down - that is an issue for some other [EFI powered] builders but not 100% of the time.
Any time you adjust the idle screw on your throttle body, you need to reset the TPS sensor so the A9L knows where idle is. Anything over 1.0 volts makes the A9L think you have your foot into the pedal and are accelerating.
"Normal" injectors for a blown engine are; 30 to 42 pounds - not sure what Black ones are rated at.
You need to start from square one by setting timing, idle and then go from there.

Doc

[Just puttering]

Joee, thanks for the info . You are right about the motor ... IF and may I restate IF I need more engine in this car ... No thats wrong, I never will, from what I've noticed so far my biggest problem is traction and the ability at that point to stay pointing straight ahead!!! This car has a very lively top end!

Doc, the car got picked up from infront of a relatives house with pictures of it being loaded and I have pictures and movies of it being unloaded! The story of the transport here was going to be a long post on this forum naming the enclosed covered professional car moving company. I have calmed down abit and have not told that story .... Yet.

I agree with the tps, but at this point it runs better with the voltage set up around 1.11 (as far as it will go that way) not at the .90 or so that is recommended.
I agree with square one, but after I set what I can I get to the tps adjustment before buying more parts to try!
I have been reading about o2 sensors and am going to try to check them next. This is part of a post that I will not try to put on here with this pads screen keyboard! I will add it when I get back from town.

[Joee]

Check your vss on transmission as doc mentioned I kept forgetting to suggest that earlier. You will be chasing your tail if you run it at 1.11 tps. The A9L must see .95 to .98v as base idle. Also the timing must be right on then you need to follow the proper method to set idle. From there the A9L should take over. If it won't run with the proper base setup its not going to run right. Since you seem new, we all were, that is why I suggest a tuner because they will hook your car to a computer which will show the readings of all sensors simultaneously. FWIW I spent about 3 years doing what you are about to do even went as far as obtaining a twEECer to no avail. I had a 6 psi blower, cam, 42lb in etc running through donor harness. Myself and another AutoX competitor threw in the towel on the systems and went with carb setup. The alternative at that time was to get a whole new efi system , prior to carb like efi, for like $2k. A new modern efi may also solve all of your problems.

[Big Blocker]

It runs better at 1.11 because the A9L is adding fuel because it thinks you have your foot on the go pedal . . . as stated above, it needs to be below .99 (recommended is .95 to .97) to idle correctly.
Not knowing your cam specs, I'd try to get it to idle about 900 - 1000 rpm (with the throttle plate screw) to start. Once you get it to that range, re-adjust the TPS to .95 and the A9L should be able to maintain that rpm.
Check advance and adjust as necessary. if the idle falls off, reset to 900-1000 and re-adjust the TPS again. It's a process but you should be able to get it to idle smoothly with the basic settings.

Just as a thought, you might want to remove the SC belt and try to get it running without boost. Get it running smooth and then re-install the belt. It should run without the SC spinning.

Doc

[Just puttering]

Thanks guys for the ideas, it looks like it may be this weekend before I can work on it. I will post what i find.