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Thread: windshield mounting

  1. #1
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    windshield mounting

    Getting ready to mount the windshield, and wondering if I have to shorten the side mounting brackets. If the do have to be shortened how much do they need to be shortened.

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    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Yes. I did the minimum roughly 2 inches, then once I got the holes marked, drilled, and tapped, I cleaned up the ends with a bit more cut off.
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    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
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    Since I am nearing this stage, does all of this windshield work have to be done with the body off?

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    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    Yes. I did the minimum roughly 2 inches, then once I got the holes marked, drilled, and tapped, I cleaned up the ends with a bit more cut off.
    Tapping the braces really seems to be one heck of a great idea.
    That way your bolts hold things tight and the nuts lock things off.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    There is no need to tap the frame. You need some wiggle room to get the angle right, especially if you ever plan on a top, and to also get the gasket to seat on the body. Not to mention that it is not easy to get the drivers side bolts in anyway. The last thing you want it to put any pressure on the frame. You do not want to pull it in, or have it push out. You want it to sit unstressed by having shims. Once you snug it down, it is not going anywhere.

    It has to be fitted with the body on.

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    VERY important to remember to shim the bolts so that the bars do not pull in and create unwanted forces on the window frame.

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    I would test fit the windshield with body on, as the slots in the body will need to be opened up, then mark the cut point at bottom of windshield brackets from the chassis mounting plates. Retest fit, set angle as below, then mark the hole locations. I agree with GoDad, drilling and tapping the windshield frame is a great idea that will save frustration later trying to get locknuts run down in limited access space. I seem to remember a 27" distance from top edge of windshield to rear door opening to get the angle correct, especially if fitting a top later. Check the forums regarding this step, there is a detailed discussion of these procedures to verify the dimension.

  8. #8
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Gentlemen,

    I moved my fuse block over to the passenger side of the car to give me additional room in the driver's foot box, gain easy access to the master cylinders and to keep any water from running down the windshield frame to the electrical system in case I get caught in the rain.

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...2&d=1458496655

    Is it the fuse block that makes getting to the drivers side windshield bolts the culprit that makes them tough to get to because mine seem like they will be easily accessible; however, I haven't tried to fit the windshield yet?

    Steve
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 10-19-2017 at 03:06 PM.

  9. #9
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Tapping the braces really seems to be one heck of a great idea.
    That way your bolts hold things tight and the nuts lock things off.
    Thank EdwardB for that one. I'm just the one who steals ideas from the really smart dudes 'round here.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  10. #10
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by d42davis View Post
    VERY important to remember to shim the bolts so that the bars do not pull in and create unwanted forces on the window frame.
    Yeah, I made two shims, a 1/16" for the driver's side (probably didn't really need that one, but it just made it fit a tad better), and a 1/4" for the passenger side. I did the preliminary fit, and end support hole location with the body on the first time (as well as some preliminary body slot adjustments too), then when the body came off later, did the final bending and twisting of the end supports to get them to sit parallel and flush to the frame mounts. That chrome that is on the brass supports comes loose pretty easily, so go easy with the vice and pliers doing the bending and twisting.

    The bolt on the bottom hole on both the DS and PS was just touching the 3/4" tube, so I bought some stainless bolts that fit better.

    I didn't move my fuse block, but I have so much stuff above the driver side foot box, that the only way I can get to the DS windshield mount is to drop my THREE elec/fuse panels, move them out of the way as much as I can, and reach up to install the bolts. PITA, but it's about the only way for me. Too much stuff in the way to get to it from the access panel over the M/C's. (Guess I got carried away with the electrics.)

    Also, the 27 inch dimension referenced above, is from the top screw on the side windshield support, to the edge of the body where the door mates up on the top inside edge of the body. (Hope I said that correctly.)
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    Last edited by boat737; 10-19-2017 at 04:05 PM.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  11. #11


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    There have been different windshield and hardware suppliers over the years and there has ben some variation in the arm lengths so rather than just cutting 2" off of the bottom I make the cut 13" from the bottom screw hole. Yes, the 27" dimension mentioned will work well for setting the angle.

    Jeff

  12. #12

    Carl
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    Here is a link to my build thread on the subject ...

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...eld#post280089

    Two parts discuss the installation ... I purchased some panel shims from the local NAPA to shim between the frame and the posts.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  13. #13
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    thanks guys

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    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Here is a tip on shims. You can use washers, or body shims which at U shaped. If you have a stack of them, spray some adhesive like you use on the carpet etc to stick them together.

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    just ran into this problem.

    I have no idea why the frame legs would come "trim to fit". And drill your own holes.... You think they would be properly length. Instead they come up on the interior aluminum panels.

  16. #16
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tcsracing1 View Post
    just ran into this problem.

    I have no idea why the frame legs would come "trim to fit". And drill your own holes.... You think they would be properly length. Instead they come up on the interior aluminum panels.
    The windshield assembly used by Factory Five Racing is often used by other manufacturers as well.
    That is the reason why the frame's legs are "Cut To Length" and require trimming for our cars.

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    that make sense. thanks!

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    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    With the posts being fairly soft brass, I'd worry about stripping the threads, if you snugged the bolts even just a little to tight. You should be cautious, if you go that route.

    I used masking tape on the ends, when I cut the posts, and also where I drilled the post holes. Anything to try and prevent that crappy Chinese chrome job from peeling.

    The donor fuse box wasn't an issue for me, when installing the drivers side. I did have difficulty reaching into that area with a wrench, and holding it, while tightening with the other hand. Finally managed to get a closed end wrench to wedge itself, so I could just work the ratchet with one hand. The passenger side was also tricky, because i could only use one hand, so again I needed to wedge a wrench in place, while tightening.

  19. #19
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AC Bill View Post
    With the posts being fairly soft brass, I'd worry about stripping the threads, if you snugged the bolts even just a little to tight. You should be cautious, if you go that route.
    True, but the threads in the side posts are only there to just snug up and hold everything till you get the locknuts on. It's a bit of a ballet act to get everything tight at once, because once the nut starts to get tight, you have to put another 1/4 turn or so on the bolt as it gets pulled through. A little turn on the nut, a little turn on the bolt, and everything gets tightened up together. Then do it 3 more times for the other bolts, all while standing on your head, lying on your back, doubled over with your head between your knees...

    I ended up using just about every combination of 3/4 inch wrench there is: Open end, box end, socket, universal socket, extension (through the DS M/C access panel), ratcheting box end, Crowsfoot, and I even had to cut a wrench in half to get the swing. The hard part for me was to drop all the electrical/fuse panels. Two weeks ago, while I was looking at it, I said to myself, Here I've built a car with no way to mount the windshield. Well, it took half a day, but I got it in yesterday. I'm going to cry when I have to pull it all out again for paint in a couple months.
    Last edited by boat737; 10-21-2017 at 10:29 AM.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

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    Quote Originally Posted by AC Bill View Post
    With the posts being fairly soft brass, I'd worry about stripping the threads, if you snugged the bolts even just a little to tight. You should be cautious, if you go that route.
    True enough if you really cranked on them plus if you were depending on those threads to be the primary holding mechanism. But as an assembly aid, until the lock nuts are installed (as stated), the tapped threads are plenty strong enough.
    Last edited by edwardb; 10-21-2017 at 05:48 PM.
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  21. #21
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    My technique is to throw away the locking nuts and replace them w/ standard nuts, 2 nuts per bolt. Use one nut per bolt during all the trial fittings. Run it on by finger and only need a wrench for the last one turn. Once all is finalized, run the other nut on as a jam nut.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

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    POST REMOVED BY ADMIN. PM sent

  23. #23
    The Traveler R. Button's Avatar
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    just a comment on threading the windscreen posts.. if you add a softtop, - I can't speak for the newest FFR top as that looks to be different - but the pull against the front windscreen using the older style FFR softtop and the newer replacement for the older style - at highway speeds - pulls on that front windscreen enough that I would be concerned with the brass threading holding the windscreen. If you are not using a softtop, my opinion, whatever works for your build as it is after all your build!
    I have that vertical rod on my windscreen to keep that top brass windscreen frame from lifting off the windscreen and letting more water leaks in!
    I also like the ability to adjust the windscreen angle to be tight against the side curtains (I use the older style hard side curtains) to reduce the rain water that comes in. So I drill out the frame mount holes to allow more adjustment.
    You can't keep all the rain out, but each little bit helps.

    side note... I am on my 3 soft top and my 5 or 6th windscreen
    Last edited by R. Button; 10-25-2017 at 09:49 AM.
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    Many thanks to the admin who intervened........

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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Gotta' love how Ralph carefully crafted his comments: "...letting more water leak in", "...reduce the rainwater that comes in"! He, better than about anyone understands what I've heard said so many times---the soft top doesn't necessarilly keep you dry but helps you get less wet

    Jeff

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    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frd2 View Post
    Many thanks to the admin who intervened........
    There does seem to be some harsh feelings. I'm sorry I brought it up. I'll try to watch my choice of words in the future.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  27. #27
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    Here's slightly different approach to shimming that has seemed to work well for me. I fit the windshield with the body on as everyone does. Then once the body was removed I reinstalled the windshield and measured the amount of gap where it bolts up. I cut some flat steel bar of the correct thickness, drilled matching large holes and bolted it in place by tapping it and grinding the bolts flush on the outside. Now the windshield will slide smoothly in place and I can tighten the bolts without any movement of the frame arms. Once I did final assembly I did not have to worry about any shimming. Just slide it in place, adjust the angle and tighten it up. So far, so good. 4000 miles on some pretty rough country roads and one deer strike that shoved the windshield back a couple of inches, but it didn't break.

    Bob
    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 3.55 gears, Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

  28. #28
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Just did my final windshield mounting after DaBat's paint and 13" from the bottom screw hole for length and 27" for the angle was perfect. The chrome almost always chips/flakes off when you cut to length, but is not seen. Shimmed the driver's side upper hole with two extra (taped together) washers and added one extra to the bottom hole. The passenger side did not require any shimming. Was also able to get the lower windshield rubber seal seated against the hood without any gaps. I recently helping another forum member mount his windshield after paint and we found that shimming also helped flatten/close any gaps with the bottom lower seal. I did not have the exact angle prior to paint and had to slightly rework the driver's side. If your body hole gets a little larger, you can trim your chrome cover plate to better position any gaps or allow the windshield to fit down flush. I was able tighten the driver's side bolts down, but man - I was doing some hot yoga to get r done...also - leave the passenger side vent gills off until you tighten down for access. A 1/4" (outside diameter) black vacuum line nicely fits nicely into the channel at the top of the windshield to finish r off.

    Chris
    Last edited by cgundermann; 10-25-2017 at 07:37 PM.

  29. #29
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    I moved the fuse panel as much as the slack would allow and then used a 3/8 air wrench and a boxed end wrench to tighten the bolts on both sides and then remounted the fuse block

    Rick
    #8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    There have been different windshield and hardware suppliers over the years and there has ben some variation in the arm lengths so rather than just cutting 2" off of the bottom I make the cut 13" from the bottom screw hole. Yes, the 27" dimension mentioned will work well for setting the angle.

    Jeff
    So just to confirm, here is a picture where I measured 13” from the center of the bottom screw down to my cut line. I set the cut angle at 50 degrees which is roughly what the rake will be. Is this what Jeff is referring too when he mentions measuring down 13”?
    197DC45E-0D7B-4278-BA21-30AA3FA9C3F7.jpg
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  31. #31


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    Quote Originally Posted by stevant View Post
    So just to confirm, here is a picture where I measured 13” from the center of the bottom screw down to my cut line. I set the cut angle at 50 degrees which is roughly what the rake will be. Is this what Jeff is referring too when he mentions measuring down 13”?
    197DC45E-0D7B-4278-BA21-30AA3FA9C3F7.jpg
    Steve,
    I just answered the same to your PM but will put it here for others. Yes, just like that; 13" down from the lower screw. It can be either square cut or angled depending oh how powerful the OCD is on that particular day

    Jeff

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    Thanks Jeff!!!........very much appreciated.
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

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