Following Shane's advice above on positioning the rear body, I started out by taking a section of thin sheetmetal and bending it to the angle needed between the trans bracket and the rear face of the body and then transferring that to a larger gauge aluminum piece I had left over that I didn't use from the InfinityBox mounting plates I picked up. From there I set the aluminum bracket in place and noticed a substantial rocking motion left to right caused by excessive glass right in the center of the back side of the license plate location. From my first attempt at bolting a bracket in place, this was the reason the fiberglass was flexing once I bolted it down. So I broke out the angle grinder and went to town on removing the peak of material in the center of the back side of the license plate area. Once that was knocked down, I hit it by hand with some 80 grit just to smooth any further imperfections out. The aluminum plate now rests perfectly flat against the trans mount and the rear side of the body.







Next, I moved on to leveling the body. I needed to cut out a bit more of the exhaust cutout area to get to a nice reference location left and right in addition to measuring from the wheel arches down to the center of the fully drooped wheel hub. I took some pieces of wood and wooden shims and balanced them on top of the wing mount I have installed on the rear trans mount and this worked out perfectly to make very minor adjustments until I was completely happy with a level body. Checking with a straight edge sitting on the trans mount to the cutout opening is darn near perfect left and right and measuring from the wheel arches down to the hub is within a 1/16". I'm going to count this good enough and looks rather nice when I stand back and view the full rear end. I've got some longer clamps on order that were supposed to be here yesterday, but got delayed before I drill a cleko the license plate location and then move on to the left and right positioning.