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Thread: Shoeless GTM #501 Here we go!!!

  1. #121
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    Good work!

    Although I think those axles are a bit large!

    https://i.imgur.com/8N7asb3.jpg
    www.myraceshop.com

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  2. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by crash View Post
    Good work!

    Although I think those axles are a bit large!

    https://i.imgur.com/8N7asb3.jpg
    LOL that's actually the drive shaft from my 07' Tundra. Long story, but the lesson was don't take off the yolk nut to change the support bearing. Some asshat at Toyota depressed the nut to much to lock it in place and destroyed the threads when I was taking it off. Therefore I got a new drive shaft for the truck

  3. #123
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    Hey guys,

    I was able to get in the garage a little bit this weekend. I installed the Infinitybox Master Cell with Shane's mounting plate, mocked up some tubing for the expansion tank, and started to kick around placement of other electronics. The cardboard box is simulating the AEM Infinity EMS Series 5 and may end up on the bottom of the stereo closeout panel Shane makes. I think I saw this somewhere, but can't remember. Really depends how long the wiring harness turns out. And the rear power cell may end up on the driver side by the expansion tank. This should make room for a fuel filter and cold air intake on the passenger side. More mock up to continue.





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  4. #124
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    Personally, I would avoid mounting much of anything inside the tunnel if you don't have to. Once the car is together, if you would mount that AEM box to the bottom of the stereo close-out and would ever have to access that down the road......it would be extremely difficult. Any relays or other components like that I try to get over into the driver's side or passenger side footwell area so you could at least get to it if you needed to without taking stuff apart. The temps inside the tunnel also get very hot.....so one more reason to avoid mounting components in there if you don't have to.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  5. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    Personally, I would avoid mounting much of anything inside the tunnel if you don't have to. Once the car is together, if you would mount that AEM box to the bottom of the stereo close-out and would ever have to access that down the road......it would be extremely difficult. Any relays or other components like that I try to get over into the driver's side or passenger side footwell area so you could at least get to it if you needed to without taking stuff apart. The temps inside the tunnel also get very hot.....so one more reason to avoid mounting components in there if you don't have to.
    Good point on avoiding the tunnel. I guess I really need to pull the trigger on my AEM setup to see what kind of length the plug and play harness has. I have one open question out there on a separate forum about configuring the traction control. My logic seems solid on how I want to lay it out, but I'd hate to make a $5k investment just to find out it won't work as planned.

    I'd like to avoid the engine compartment due to the heat, but may not be able to pull it off without serious mods to the wiring harness. I could probably move the Infinity Box power cell to the driver side and mount the AEM box either horizontal or vertical where the standard LS1 harness bracket is.

    Anybody got any info on Injector Dynamics Fuel Filters? Looks to be a solid unit, it better be for what they want for them.

    http://injectordynamics.com/id-f750-fuel-filter/

  6. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shoeless View Post
    Good point on avoiding the tunnel. I guess I really need to pull the trigger on my AEM setup to see what kind of length the plug and play harness has. I have one open question out there on a separate forum about configuring the traction control. My logic seems solid on how I want to lay it out, but I'd hate to make a $5k investment just to find out it won't work as planned.

    I'd like to avoid the engine compartment due to the heat, but may not be able to pull it off without serious mods to the wiring harness. I could probably move the Infinity Box power cell to the driver side and mount the AEM box either horizontal or vertical where the standard LS1 harness bracket is.
    Here is something I came up with for another customer.....keeping stuff up and out of the way to create room for more stuff.....with the LS7 dry sump tank, things get pretty crowded, but no reason this can't be used for any GTM build:

    http://vraptorspeedworks.com/crate-e...nting-bracket/
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  7. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    Here is something I came up with for another customer.....keeping stuff up and out of the way to create room for more stuff.....with the LS7 dry sump tank, things get pretty crowded, but no reason this can't be used for any GTM build:

    http://vraptorspeedworks.com/crate-e...nting-bracket/
    Now that's what I'm talking about!!!! That will solve everything I think I'm looking to do (ISIS, AEM ECU, and high end Fuel Filter setup). I'll pull some specs on size of the ECU and Injector Dynamics fuel filter and reach out via email.

    You are the man Shane!!!

  8. #128
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Mounted ECM Vertical

    Shoeless

    This is how I mounted my ECM as you will note the cold air intake has been modified as the FFR will not fit on either side. The Infinity Box Power Module is mounted on the other side on the back panel, but may relocate up front to the area next to the surge tank as there is enough room.

    That is really a great idea Shane came up with to mount ECU and Power Module could use it now if wiring not already pulled in for the car. I agree with you Shane has some very good ideas.

    IMG_1846.JPGIMG_1855.JPGIMG_1891.JPG
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  9. #129
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    Hey guys,

    I've been bouncing around a little bit after ordering all kinds of goodies over the holiday. I got in the AEM Infinity Series 5 ECU, Wideband O2 Sensors (one connects directly to the ECU via an onboard O2 controller and the second will run through the CAN bus), Vehicle Dynamics Module, and a few other goodies. I'm still waiting on the wiring harness from AEM and had to exchange some fittings for the fuel filter.

    I decided to go with an Injector Dynamics F750 fuel filter, which in my opinion is pure artwork and will be displayed accordingly. The front window is a delta P indicator that will give you the feedback you need to know when the fuel filter needs to be changed. I decided to go with the optional block on the right side with a Bosch Fuel Pressure and Temp Sensor. Tap into the Infinity system and it will monitor everything for me. It will also take into consideration the readings when calculating everything needed to control the motor.



    For the Vehicle Dynamics Module, the instructions state to place it as close to the center of the vehicle and as low as possible. I bent up some aluminum and found a spot right in the tunnel. The black mark on the blue tape marked the center front to back, so I pretty happy with its location. I can also access this spot without to much hassle in case it need to be checked on in the future. This will give 3 axis accelerometer, 3 axis pyrometer, and GPS location for track mapping and GPS speed.





    I also took some time to mark up all the inputs and outputs on the Infinity Box so I can start to run some wiring.


  10. #130
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    As I'm working through the approach I want to go with on the radiator, thanks for all the feedback in my other post, I decided to pull the accumulator out and see where the hoses will allow me to mount it. I tried all kinds of routings for the hoses, and it just seemed like there was a lot of force in the hoses to not allow it to rest against the front frame bar the instructions want you to place it in.

    I really had to force the accumulator into a vertical position here.





    I then took the short straight tube off the AC unit, which was a pain being installed, but I got it loose. I still had to force the accumulator vertical, so not too happy here either.



    Then I looked back over some others posts, and the accumulator seems to sit nicely in this location. I'll need to bend the aluminum tubing coming into the accumulator to get it away from the steering rack, but I think this will be its final location. I'm hoping the AC tubing can be bent just like the brake lines. What are you guys thoughts about bending these lines? Do it cold or add some heat?

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  11. #131
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    That aluminum is very soft. I normally just bend it by hand....as in just grab it and use my hands to bend it whatever way it needs to go....gently and across a good length of tube so it doesn't try to kink in one spot. Yeah...with the large hose from the AC unit over to the accumulator, no matter what you do it seems that either the large short hose or the hose from the compressor is putting pressure on the accumulator....but not much you can do about it......it is what it is.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  12. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    That aluminum is very soft. I normally just bend it by hand....as in just grab it and use my hands to bend it whatever way it needs to go....gently and across a good length of tube so it doesn't try to kink in one spot. Yeah...with the large hose from the AC unit over to the accumulator, no matter what you do it seems that either the large short hose or the hose from the compressor is putting pressure on the accumulator....but not much you can do about it......it is what it is.
    Thanks for the pointers on the bending the tubing. This will be a little more risky for me than the brake lines, those were $5 each for practice , I'll definitely take it slow and steady on the AC line over its length.

  13. #133
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    Been doing a few odds and ends on Shoeless GTM. Covered the gas tanks in gold reflective film and figured out my front brake lines, from my other post, with 90 deg fittings and 18" lines.

    I also installed the ebrake handle and cables and just don't like how it looks. Been kicking around the idea of going with an electric ebrake setup to completely get away from the handle cable system all together. I will likely need to make some room in the tunnel by ditching the insulation I currently have around my coolant tubes and going with some other form of insulation. Still haven't decided on the final path, I'll need to stare at it a bit while working some other items.





    Nice S bends in the front brake lines now.




  14. #134
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    When you say you don't like how your e-brake looks, do you mean appearance or function? I didn't care for the C5 handle, it's enormous.
    In a car like this, I like the idea of a mechanical e-brake 'just in case'... The electric actuated e-brake is fine if you're just cruising the car shows...IMHO...
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
    1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car

  15. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by beeman View Post
    When you say you don't like how your e-brake looks, do you mean appearance or function? I didn't care for the C5 handle, it's enormous.
    In a car like this, I like the idea of a mechanical e-brake 'just in case'... The electric actuated e-brake is fine if you're just cruising the car shows...IMHO...
    I think a little of both, appearance and function. The handle is way to big and the routing of the donor cables isn’t to my liking. I saw you went with a smaller handle, which may appease the appearance, but I’ll definitly need to do something about the way the cables run. I like what you did w the Wilwood kit and may end up doing something similar.

    Just kicking around ideas at the moment and seeing what others think. Plus the one electronic version I see clearly states don’t mount anywhere with increased temps.

  16. #136
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    Shoeless, I had same issue and relocated the condenser to approximately the same location you are looking a as the final resting position. It sticks up through the cutout o the panel and I will make a removable cover to go over the condenser and seal the front area from the radiator compartment. Just and idea showing the condenser in another location without interfering with the wiper motor.

    IMG_1905.jpgIMG_1907.jpgIMG_1910.JPG

  17. #137
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    I did not like the e-brake handle either and go rid of it, installed an e-stop e-brake system instead. The pictures below show the mounting in the bottom of the tunnel, you can see the actuator and the box connecting the actuator to the two e-brake cables. It cleans up the center console and after testing work extremely well. I have to modify the center condole to except my 7” pad to operate the Infinity Box System and it looks a lot better without the e-brake handle.

    IMG_1497.jpgIMG_1535.jpgIMG_1585.JPG

  18. #138
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    Hey James,

    Thanks for the reply on the condenser and the e-brake setup. It was after reading up on your build that gave me the idea of the e-brake setup. Did you go with 2 layers of heat wrap on the coolant tubes? First layer of header wrap and then second layer similar to this silver covering?

    https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=1828

    or

    https://www.delcity.net/store/Therma...18152.h_818153

    I'll go double check the wiper motor location and make sure mounting the condenser on the side won't interfere. Thanks for the heads up.

    Sean

  19. #139
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    Sean,

    You are correct, I put one layer that was header wrap on the piping then covered it with aluminized heat reflecting tape to seal the ceramic fiber header tape and help reflect heat sink into the piping from the tunnel. I figured anything I can to limit the amount of heat being generated in side the tunnel and reflect as much heat off equipment and piping as it moves down the tunnel from the front to back would be a good thing. The interior walls of the tunnel are lined with Cool It Suppressor Acoustical & Heat Control Mat. It should help in keeping the interior noise level down as well as the heat sink from tunnel to interior down.

  20. #140
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Here is a picture of all the lines installed in the tunnel, all radiator and heater supply and return lines are insulated with ceramic header tape and covered with the aluminized tape and the A/C supply and return lines to and from the compressor are insulated with the tar like cold insulation they sell for A/C lines the wrapped in the gold 800 deg. Plus reflective tape to protect the cold insulation.

    IMG_1676.jpg

  21. #141
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    Very clean work James!!! Thanks for taking the time to let me know your approach and posting pics.

  22. #142
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    Hey guys,

    Its been a bit since an update, so I figured I need to post something. I figured I needed to create a list and just get my butt in the garage this weekend. So that's where I started, create the list of items I have sitting in front of me.



    The first couple things I knocked off was to install the fuel level sensor on the Lingenfelter Fuel Pump, cut the factory hose and throw on my AN adapter. I originally purchased the quick connect fitting and thought I would use the factor hose, but it wasn't to my liking. So I'll pick up a barbed AN fitting so I can start to make some fuel lines. I then moved over to my Canton cooling tank. I have the larger flat tank that I picked up that I'm using. I like the ease of access to the location of the cap with this tank so I went this way. I cut the bottom bracket off and picked up a tap to chase the threads as they didn't look too clean to me. I'll probably finish up the fittings tomorrow and mount the tank.

    I got my AC Accumulator Bracket back from the powder coated and got it all mounted up today. This location is now tucked up and out out of the way making room for other electrical stuff that will go up front.



    I then shifted my attention to the InTouchNet from Infinity Box and working on layout of other items in the passenger foot box.





    I also visited my buddy Gary that owns Southeast Machine on Friday to talk about a few nice touches that I have been kicking around in my head lately. I worked with him on my latest project at Pratt & Whitney and the capability of his shop is grow leaps and bounds. Multiple 3, 4, and 5 axis milling machines, bar feeder,... you name it, his shop is outfitted with it. I mentioned my GTM a while back and his eyes perked up with excitement. He is totally stoked to jump in and help me make some custom pieces for my build. My first thought, although I won't need them for some time, is to ditch the cheesy plastic GTM badges and get some made out of titanium . It just so happens he has some 1/4 thick pieces in his scrap bin at the moment, so I told him go ahead a pull that out and we'll do some concept badges in aluminum and then cut some nice ones in titanium.

  23. #143
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    Ha! I love lists. I think for the GTM lists are a great way to keep motivation high. Every night or weekend just cross one item off. Eventually you're done.

    I included a picture I just took this evening of the "GTM list" board in my garage. Still hanging even though I finished the car 5 years ago and sold it last summer!

    Keep up the good work!

    -Michael

    IMG_7600.jpg
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    SOLD JUNE 2018 - GTM #327, LS3, G50/20, Kooks, AC, Ron's Tanks, Crash's 4-port HCV, Shane's Bolts & Plenum & etc., plus a lot of other stuff. Finished November 2013.

    Not-up-to-date Build Site: http://rumrunnergtm.weebly.com

  24. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by RumRunner View Post
    Ha! I love lists. I think for the GTM lists are a great way to keep motivation high. Every night or weekend just cross one item off. Eventually you're done.

    I included a picture I just took this evening of the "GTM list" board in my garage. Still hanging even though I finished the car 5 years ago and sold it last summer!

    Keep up the good work!

    -Michael

    IMG_7600.jpg
    Thanks Michael. I think I need a bigger list LOL. BTW what software did you use to create your wiring diagram from your build site? Once I get to wiring, I want to be able to create something like this for my GTM. Going with an AEM Infinity Engine Management System and ditching the stock GM computer will give me tons of functionality, but I need to lay out everything.

  25. #145
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    For the wiring diagram I used Microsoft Visio - which I no longer have access to (not even sure if it is a Microsoft Product anymore) so I couldn't modify it if I wanted to. If anyone wants the original visio file, let me know. I usually send folks the PDF version.

    -Michael
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    SOLD JUNE 2018 - GTM #327, LS3, G50/20, Kooks, AC, Ron's Tanks, Crash's 4-port HCV, Shane's Bolts & Plenum & etc., plus a lot of other stuff. Finished November 2013.

    Not-up-to-date Build Site: http://rumrunnergtm.weebly.com

  26. #146
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    Thanks Mike, I'll have to take a look into that.

  27. #147
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    Hey Shoeless, Microsoft still has Visio as one of their programs. I use it quite frequently to make process flow diagrams and P&ID's of a refinery process for our engineering company. IT is a great little an simple program that is loaded already with the symbols for electrical and may other things. Much simpler to use the Auto CAD or on of their associated programs which we also used when appropriate. I think you would like the program and what it is capable of doing.

  28. #148
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    I was able to spend most of yesterday in the garage focusing on my list of near term items to knock out. First up was getting all the plumping sorted out on the Canton expansion tank. I guess on older models, the location of the bung on the bottom of the tank dropped right between the fuel tank and the frame, but I guess they changed it somewhere. No worries, a few fittings, tape, and pipe sealant and I knocked this off the list.





    I then moved on to mounting the Injector Dynamics fuel filter, AEM Series 5 ECU, and Rear Power Cell. First let me give some credit where it is due. Shane has a design for a bracket he made to hold a puke tank for a dry sump setup on an LS7 that would work for my desired setup with a few modifications. After a few mockups, Shane cranked out the bracket for me and its perfect. I did a test fit on the bench and then moved to the car. Trying to think forward on the build a bit, I'll likely leave this in bare metal for a bit. Ultimately it will end up either powder coated in silver hammer tone like a lot of other parts on my ride or I'll carbon fiber skin it for a nice touch.

    I am blown away how well this turned out, thanks again Shane for helping make my GTM completely unique.






  29. #149
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Very nice! We are extremely lucky to have Shane as part of the FFR community, he has solved a lot of issues and shortcomings with the kit, and has developed options that take the GTM to the next level. And he's always friendly and willing to help, even when he's not making a sale.
    Last edited by beeman; 02-03-2019 at 04:40 PM.
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
    1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car

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  31. #150
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Thanks for the kind words, guys!! I really appreciate it! Glad I could be of service to you all. If there's one thing I've learned after 30+ GTM builds, it's that there just isn't a whole lot of room in the engine bay to mount a ton of "extra" components......so sometimes you have to get a bit creative to fit as much "stuff" in as little space as possible while trying to keep everything both halfway accessible and away from main sources of heat.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

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  33. #151
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Looks really good, Shane did a great job figuring it out. I know we all appreciate his help, advise and ability to design something that really works in the tight spaces of the GTM.

  34. #152
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    Hey guys,

    I was able to score a copy of Visio Professional on my work computer, so I guess I'll be bringing that lap top home to start working on the wiring layout. I spent a little time poking around it last weekend to learn the software and this is going to be one long project to lay everything out. I also plan to add the engine wiring harness from AEM to this layout as there are several channels that are open on the Infinity Series 5 ECU for expansion from the stock and I have plans for nearly every open channel. The AEM will also have its own CAN bus that I'll be tapping into for a few expansion features.

    I got my brake brackets from Shane a little ago and sent them off to be powder coated and then I laid down some black on the connecting rods.



    I also put in a cross tube for wiring to keep the tunnel sealed off.



    I got in a nice shipment from Summit this week as they were running their typical $51 off if you spend $500 specials. I typically keep a running list and then when the sale hits, I can at least save a little coin. I mock up the steering wheel after installing the gas pedal and decided to pull out the interior and check the mock up of the AEM CD5 and CD7 digital dashes. Looks like the CD7 will actually fit perfectly. I need to find my column cover and throw it on there and see how it looks, but all indications point to me being able to going with the larger 7 in screen. I'm super stoked about that.







    I then shifted over to working on the radiator install. For those that remember, my Dewitts wasn't quite fitting level left to right. I got that all worked out by trimming the rubber bushing, cutting down the bracket on the frame, and trimming the bottom tab on the radiator itself. Now all I need to do is cut up the angled aluminum piece and have it welded.

    I do have a question on the ebrake handle. Is this thing supposed to be so dang close to the frame for the tunnel? When I put the center interior piece in place it was seriously rubbing it. I may need to find a way to move this outboard a bit. Have you guys ran into this and how did you deal with it.

  35. #153
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shoeless View Post

    I do have a question on the ebrake handle. Is this thing supposed to be so dang close to the frame for the tunnel? When I put the center interior piece in place it was seriously rubbing it. I may need to find a way to move this outboard a bit. Have you guys ran into this and how did you deal with it.
    As crude as it sounds....yes, I see this with all of the Ebrake handles....and the fix is to grab the handle and pull it away from the dash until it bends the handle just enough to create the desired clearance.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  36. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    As crude as it sounds....yes, I see this with all of the Ebrake handles....and the fix is to grab the handle and pull it away from the dash until it bends the handle just enough to create the desired clearance.
    Glad its an easy solution LOL.

  37. #155
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    I was very happy this evening to drop in my Dewitts radiator after much thought and effort to get it sitting just perfectly in the opening. When I fist dropped it in when i received it, it wasn't sitting level left to right in the car and I knew I would have to make a bracket to mount it. After some thought and a game plan, I ended up cutting some of the bracket on the driver side away and cutting some fo the material off the radiator bracket. Going back and fourth between the two and lots of test fits, it finally sat perfectly level left to right and then needed to make a bracket.

    I started with some simple angled aluminum, cut to length, made some slots to clear the other welds and the name badge, and finished it off with a nice brushed finish.







    I then headed over to my welder who was kindly enough to hook me up after work hours. He mainly works on stainless and aluminum in the boat industry, so this was no problem for him.



    Then for the final fit check, and BAM she fits perfectly!!!!!


  38. #156
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    I also spent some time this past weekend fitting the Vintage Air Controller in the passenger foot well box. Its all a tight fit, but will allow me to access and service everything if needed.




  39. #157
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    Engine Harness Wiring Diagram.JPG

    Hey guys,

    So I decided to spend the time redoing the engine wiring harness diagram as I was seeing contradictions from schematics and the manual from AEM, plus I'll also be modifying this harness to utilize the open channels on my AEM Series 5 ECU. I'll be able to plot this out large at work and hang it on the wall when I go to modify the harness to work in the GTM.

    I plan on doing this for the car as well as I want a diagram to follow when I start to go into wiring the whole car.

  40. #158
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    Got the Dewitts radiator, fan shroud, and AC Condenser install this past weekend as well.

    Everything looks pretty good, but then I looked at the AC hoses that connect to the condenser especially the low side I started scratching my head. With the tube that comes off the condenser, the line that then connects to the Vintage Air unit has a crazy bend in it. Not sure if the condenser used to only have a fitting on the side of it and not the extension tube, but this make for some interesting routing past the heat shield.

    I can't remember if I have seen this before, but thinking of cutting the opening where the two cutouts are in this panel and make one larger opening to aid with routing this hose. Thoughts?




  41. #159
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    That is what we normally do....figure out where the hose wants to be and then trim the alum panel to clear the hose. The hose that runs to the top of the condenser is always a bit of a challenge also.....especially with the DeWitts radiator since it's "bulkier" than the stock radiator. Make sure that the end of the hose lines up perfectly with the condenser....if there is pressure trying to force the hose end one way or the other, that fitting will likely leak. The aluminum hose end is soft enough that you can usually "adjust" it by hand to get the angle right so that it doesn't end up being wedged tight against the chassis or the radiator.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  42. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC View Post
    That is what we normally do....figure out where the hose wants to be and then trim the alum panel to clear the hose. The hose that runs to the top of the condenser is always a bit of a challenge also.....especially with the DeWitts radiator since it's "bulkier" than the stock radiator. Make sure that the end of the hose lines up perfectly with the condenser....if there is pressure trying to force the hose end one way or the other, that fitting will likely leak. The aluminum hose end is soft enough that you can usually "adjust" it by hand to get the angle right so that it doesn't end up being wedged tight against the chassis or the radiator.
    Thanks for the reply Shane, yea that hose is going to be a pain, but now I'll look at where it will rest nicely to not put pressure on the condenser. Even that tube is VERY flimsy and easily movable.

    I also ordered the rear molded coolant hoses that someone ran down some PNs a while ago to ditch the corrugated lines and now I'm looking at silicone hoses and connectors for the radiator to the coolant tubes. That end is definitely going to be pricey, but at least I'll not be using the FF connectors and cheap corrugated tubing.

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