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Thread: Black&Copper - 33 Hot Rod #1028

  1. #81
    Just remember to attach those horns before mounting the radiator - and reverse the direction of your top shock bolts, so they can be removed later
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, GT500 wheels

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    Just remember to attach those horns before mounting the radiator - and reverse the direction of your top shock bolts, so they can be removed later
    Ahhh wise advice will tell my son.

  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    Just remember to attach those horns before mounting the radiator - and reverse the direction of your top shock bolts, so they can be removed later
    I can't decide which is my least favorite part of the build so far. Either mounting the horns in that small space between the shocks or drilling all the holes for for the floor panels.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    I can't decide which is my least favorite part of the build so far. Either mounting the horns in that small space between the shocks or drilling all the holes for for the floor panels.
    For me neither, my son took care of it!! LOL... Thank god he's such an amazing help!

    Mind you I still haven't told him that I want a train steam whistle on this car (for those real *&^^holes), just haven't figured out how to get it done.
    Last edited by AJT '33; 02-15-2018 at 09:25 AM.

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJT '33 View Post
    For me neither, my son took care of it!! LOL... Thank god he's such an amazing help!

    Mind you I still haven't told him that I want a train steam whistle on this car (for those real *&^^holes), just haven't figured out how to get it done.
    I saw this in Tacoma, Wa.IMG_1453.JPGIMG_1454.JPG
    Thanks,
    Andy

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    I saw this in Tacoma, Wa.IMG_1453.JPGIMG_1454.JPG

    Maybe just a smidge smaller than that!!!

  7. #87
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    Just going through different pictures and to think I started with a donor engine from a 2013 F150 which was "seasoned" to what we have now is quite amazing.

    BEFORE: 20150910_205114.jpg 20150910_205059.jpg in 2015 when I first picked it up to....

    AFTER: 20180210_160849.jpg 20180210_165631.jpg 20180211_124137.jpg just a month ago...

  8. #88
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    Again travelling for business and my son once again stepped up to the plate and got a bunch of wiring done as well as the headers and the bulk of the muffler system setup. B&C is now starting to look like something real!! Will be furthering wiring and other miscellaneous items to completion to keep this moving if our goal to have the engine running come the first couple weeks of March is to be achieved.
    20180219_102416.jpg 20180218_152620.jpg 20180218_152559.jpg

    As well FFR came through with the replacement drive shaft, received it yesterday, the original was an inch long and would have fit. Sent them a bunch of photos and they came through once again! Thanks Tony and David at FFR!!!!

  9. #89
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    Started to mock up the transmission cover such that I can modify the one supplied to have more space. on either side as well give us the space we need to run wiring. As the one that is supplied is a fit all I expected that we would need to custom fit it.
    20180224_115037.jpg 20180224_115053.jpg 20180224_115107.jpg 20180224_121804.jpg 20180224_121819.jpg

  10. #90
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    Looking to figure out if it is worth adding an aluminum mounting plate to the inside of the firewall frame to allow easier mounting of appliances such as sensors, heater, wiring? Has anyone done something like this? it would simplify the mounting of equipment under the dash and not seeing it in the engine bay of the firewall. If anyone has done this I would like to see what you have done.

  11. #91
    Quote Originally Posted by AJT '33 View Post
    Looking to figure out if it is worth adding an aluminum mounting plate to the inside of the firewall frame to allow easier mounting of appliances such as sensors, heater, wiring? Has anyone done something like this? it would simplify the mounting of equipment under the dash and not seeing it in the engine bay of the firewall. If anyone has done this I would like to see what you have done.
    Yes, i think many people do this.. here's a product you can buy to help.

    http://www.replicaparts.com/Hot%20Ro...ALL%20page.htm

    I'm going to make something up from existing sheet that I have when I mount my heater.
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, GT500 wheels

  12. #92
    Here are some photos of using two mounting plates. the first one closet to the firewall has the engine computer and the ignition security computer. It is necessary when using the Lincoln 4.6L V8 32V engine. the second plate supports the heater aircon evaporator fan unit.
    20160609_065933.jpg
    20170107_145842.jpg20170118_122400.jpg

  13. #93
    Quote Originally Posted by jplofsky View Post
    ... and the ignition security computer. It is necessary when using the Lincoln 4.6L V8 32V engine...
    Or you can have the PATS system coded-out/disabled in the ECM.

  14. #94
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    BIG BUILD DAY TODAY For the first time B&C put her feet on the ground and rolled to her new home for the push to get her running!
    20180306_191527.jpg 20180306_192440.jpg 20180306_192906.jpg 20180306_193330.jpg20180306_193353.jpg
    My brother in law lined me a set of tires from his mustang and we were able to get her on her feet and roll it to the lift and get her up to be able to work easier. Again my son was key to getting this done! Now the real work and fun begins!

  15. #95
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    It's been a while however posting pictures of wiring and setup is not the most exciting. However now that the base setup is close I felt it was time to post the progress.
    20180320_211942.jpg 20180320_211951.jpg 20180320_212133.jpg

  16. #96
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    Well, still moving forward and completing the fuel lines, the heater lines as well as the radiator items. Ran into a hitch again with the Overflow Tank, it does not fit in the space beside the radiator, has anyone successfully fit it beside the radiator? Any help is appreciated!!
    20180325_161005.jpg 20180325_160741.jpg 20180325_160744.jpg 20180325_160747.jpg 20180325_160732.jpg

  17. #97
    I found I could make it fit, with some slight mods to the aluminum, but in the end didn't like it stuck out there so I moved to the firewall. One hint though - make sure you're close to ride height.. it might make more room by putting shocks in right place
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, GT500 wheels

  18. #98
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    Another big event today... first time the body and top are on together. Really finally see what this baby may look like! Lots to do that's really not visible but critical to getting it started for the first time. At least I now have shoes for it, need to have the wheels powder coated satin black and then the tires mounted. 20180330_182800.jpg 20180330_182810.jpg 20180330_183234.jpg
    Last edited by AJT '33; 04-02-2018 at 12:09 PM.

  19. #99
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    Now I know how you all feel when you get shoes for your baby and fit them on for the first time!!!20180407_132259.jpg 20180407_131811.jpg

  20. #100
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    Well I knew that there would be some challenges however I never thought they would be with the radiator hoses versus brake lines and fuel lines. I/we have been struggling a bit with how the radiator hoses end up using the stainless corrugated hose from FFR and the adapters. After struggling with both the upper and lower hoses I reverted to the Factory Five 33 Hot Rod Builders on Facebook and hoooked up with Tom Zuorro, also a 33 Hot Rod owner, with his help I was able to get the right parts for the upper and lower hoses and the fit makes it very clean. Following are a few pictures of the upper hose setup where one hose was used and slightly trimmed as you can see.
    20180410_191215.jpg 20180410_191046.jpg 20180410_191053.jpg

    The hose is a Dayco #70443 and just needed a small trim. It has some room for movement and we will see how it performs once up and running in a few weeks I hope depending on business travel. A BIG THANK YOU to Tom for all his insight on this and the lower hose.

    Tonight, the remote filter installation, bought from Moroso however I am VERY disappointed in them as they did not tell me that their shipping charges did not cover the brokerage and taxes I needed to pay (close to $80, unlike Summit and ALL the other vendors I have used to bring things into Canada), nothing on the invoice or website on this. As well they don't provide any of the plugs for any of the unused ports so you need to purchase those separately and of course they don't come in black. I hope that the install goes better than the acquisition of the relocation kit goes! Buyer beware!
    Last edited by AJT '33; 04-17-2018 at 10:14 AM.

  21. #101
    What did you end up doing for the lower hose? I saw your post over in the FB side and never realized that the lower radiator port is larger on the bottom.

  22. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigB View Post
    What did you end up doing for the lower hose? I saw your post over in the FB side and never realized that the lower radiator port is larger on the bottom.
    I followed Tom's direction there as well using a combination of three hoses, (2) Gates 21794 and (1) Gates 21045, you can use Delco equivalents, they seem a bit more robust, look better and a little less expensive. Should have them fit by the weekend and then I'll take some pictures to post. Itsmocked up and seems to fit well however I still need to trim some more to have clearances properly setup. The 21045 hose has one end that 1.5" and the other 1.75", you will need 1.5" aluminum couplings to connect them, there are two types on amazon however we will fabricate them using 1.5" muffler pipe and welding on a lip on each end to ensure there is no slippage, less costly than ordering on line for me (about a fifth of the price).

  23. #103
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    As promised here are a few pictures of the mockup of the lower hoses. I still have to trim the top one to have additional clearance but I will be doing that a little bit at a time. I ended up getting some pieces of 1.5" muffler pipe cut 3" long and will get my son to add a weld lip on the edge such that when we add clamps it cannot slip off the pipe, I will get pictures of the final product and add it to my post as well.
    20180416_194228.jpg you can see the new hose to the right of the air filter
    20180413_194242.jpg you can see where it comes down in the upper left corner, there is a connector there, turns 90 deg. to the right and meets up to the last piece which you can see where I have tentatively marked where I will cut both of these to allow them to connect together at that point. There will be a connector there as well.

    I will try and have the hoses butt up cleanly so you don't see the connectors only the two clamps. I am also looking into a 1.5" braided sleeve to cover it from the top to the bottom to have a cleaner look and cover the joint as well, but will still see the T-Bolt clamps. At a minimum I will put the sleeve on the upper portion for now to make it look clean at least from the top. If I can find a small piece of 1.5-1.75" shrink tube to cover the ends that would really make it look clean.

  24. #104
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    I wielded a half piece of exhaust pipe for the hose to nest in by the belt idler. You may have room as i moved engine.

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