Black&Copper - 33 Hot Rod #1028

[RoadRacer]

Just remember to attach those horns before mounting the radiator - and reverse the direction of your top shock bolts, so they can be removed later

[AJT '33]

Just remember to attach those horns before mounting the radiator - and reverse the direction of your top shock bolts, so they can be removed later

Ahhh wise advice will tell my son.

[HVACMAN]

Just remember to attach those horns before mounting the radiator - and reverse the direction of your top shock bolts, so they can be removed later

I can't decide which is my least favorite part of the build so far. Either mounting the horns in that small space between the shocks or drilling all the holes for for the floor panels.

[AJT '33]

I can't decide which is my least favorite part of the build so far. Either mounting the horns in that small space between the shocks or drilling all the holes for for the floor panels.

For me neither, my son took care of it!! LOL... Thank god he's such an amazing help!

Mind you I still haven't told him that I want a train steam whistle on this car (for those real *&^^holes), just haven't figured out how to get it done.

[HVACMAN]

For me neither, my son took care of it!! LOL... Thank god he's such an amazing help!

Mind you I still haven't told him that I want a train steam whistle on this car (for those real *&^^holes), just haven't figured out how to get it done.

I saw this in Tacoma, Wa.IMG_1453.JPGIMG_1454.JPG

[AJT '33]

I saw this in Tacoma, Wa.IMG_1453.JPGIMG_1454.JPG

Maybe just a smidge smaller than that!!!

[AJT '33]

Just going through different pictures and to think I started with a donor engine from a 2013 F150 which was "seasoned" to what we have now is quite amazing.

BEFORE: 20150910_205114.jpg 20150910_205059.jpg in 2015 when I first picked it up to....

AFTER: 20180210_160849.jpg 20180210_165631.jpg 20180211_124137.jpg just a month ago...

[AJT '33]

Again travelling for business and my son once again stepped up to the plate and got a bunch of wiring done as well as the headers and the bulk of the muffler system setup. B&C is now starting to look like something real!! Will be furthering wiring and other miscellaneous items to completion to keep this moving if our goal to have the engine running come the first couple weeks of March is to be achieved.
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As well FFR came through with the replacement drive shaft, received it yesterday, the original was an inch long and would have fit. Sent them a bunch of photos and they came through once again! Thanks Tony and David at FFR!!!!

[AJT '33]

Started to mock up the transmission cover such that I can modify the one supplied to have more space. on either side as well give us the space we need to run wiring. As the one that is supplied is a fit all I expected that we would need to custom fit it.
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[AJT '33]

Looking to figure out if it is worth adding an aluminum mounting plate to the inside of the firewall frame to allow easier mounting of appliances such as sensors, heater, wiring? Has anyone done something like this? it would simplify the mounting of equipment under the dash and not seeing it in the engine bay of the firewall. If anyone has done this I would like to see what you have done.

[RoadRacer]

Looking to figure out if it is worth adding an aluminum mounting plate to the inside of the firewall frame to allow easier mounting of appliances such as sensors, heater, wiring? Has anyone done something like this? it would simplify the mounting of equipment under the dash and not seeing it in the engine bay of the firewall. If anyone has done this I would like to see what you have done.

Yes, i think many people do this.. here's a product you can buy to help.

http://www.replicaparts.com/Hot%20Ro...ALL%20page.htm

I'm going to make something up from existing sheet that I have when I mount my heater.

[jplofsky]

Here are some photos of using two mounting plates. the first one closet to the firewall has the engine computer and the ignition security computer. It is necessary when using the Lincoln 4.6L V8 32V engine. the second plate supports the heater aircon evaporator fan unit.
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[TxMike64]

... and the ignition security computer. It is necessary when using the Lincoln 4.6L V8 32V engine...

Or you can have the PATS system coded-out/disabled in the ECM.

[AJT '33]

BIG BUILD DAY TODAY For the first time B&C put her feet on the ground and rolled to her new home for the push to get her running!
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My brother in law lined me a set of tires from his mustang and we were able to get her on her feet and roll it to the lift and get her up to be able to work easier. Again my son was key to getting this done! Now the real work and fun begins!

[AJT '33]

It's been a while however posting pictures of wiring and setup is not the most exciting. However now that the base setup is close I felt it was time to post the progress.
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[AJT '33]

Well, still moving forward and completing the fuel lines, the heater lines as well as the radiator items. Ran into a hitch again with the Overflow Tank, it does not fit in the space beside the radiator, has anyone successfully fit it beside the radiator? Any help is appreciated!!
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[RoadRacer]

I found I could make it fit, with some slight mods to the aluminum, but in the end didn't like it stuck out there so I moved to the firewall. One hint though - make sure you're close to ride height.. it might make more room by putting shocks in right place

[AJT '33]

Another big event today... first time the body and top are on together. Really finally see what this baby may look like! Lots to do that's really not visible but critical to getting it started for the first time. At least I now have shoes for it, need to have the wheels powder coated satin black and then the tires mounted. 20180330_182800.jpg 20180330_182810.jpg 20180330_183234.jpg

[AJT '33]

Now I know how you all feel when you get shoes for your baby and fit them on for the first time!!!20180407_132259.jpg 20180407_131811.jpg

[AJT '33]

Well I knew that there would be some challenges however I never thought they would be with the radiator hoses versus brake lines and fuel lines. I/we have been struggling a bit with how the radiator hoses end up using the stainless corrugated hose from FFR and the adapters. After struggling with both the upper and lower hoses I reverted to the Factory Five 33 Hot Rod Builders on Facebook and hoooked up with Tom Zuorro, also a 33 Hot Rod owner, with his help I was able to get the right parts for the upper and lower hoses and the fit makes it very clean. Following are a few pictures of the upper hose setup where one hose was used and slightly trimmed as you can see.
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The hose is a Dayco #70443 and just needed a small trim. It has some room for movement and we will see how it performs once up and running in a few weeks I hope depending on business travel. A BIG THANK YOU to Tom for all his insight on this and the lower hose.

Tonight, the remote filter installation, bought from Moroso however I am VERY disappointed in them as they did not tell me that their shipping charges did not cover the brokerage and taxes I needed to pay (close to $80, unlike Summit and ALL the other vendors I have used to bring things into Canada), nothing on the invoice or website on this. As well they don't provide any of the plugs for any of the unused ports so you need to purchase those separately and of course they don't come in black. I hope that the install goes better than the acquisition of the relocation kit goes! Buyer beware!

[BigB]

What did you end up doing for the lower hose? I saw your post over in the FB side and never realized that the lower radiator port is larger on the bottom.

[AJT '33]

What did you end up doing for the lower hose? I saw your post over in the FB side and never realized that the lower radiator port is larger on the bottom.

I followed Tom's direction there as well using a combination of three hoses, (2) Gates 21794 and (1) Gates 21045, you can use Delco equivalents, they seem a bit more robust, look better and a little less expensive. Should have them fit by the weekend and then I'll take some pictures to post. Itsmocked up and seems to fit well however I still need to trim some more to have clearances properly setup. The 21045 hose has one end that 1.5" and the other 1.75", you will need 1.5" aluminum couplings to connect them, there are two types on amazon however we will fabricate them using 1.5" muffler pipe and welding on a lip on each end to ensure there is no slippage, less costly than ordering on line for me (about a fifth of the price).

[AJT '33]

As promised here are a few pictures of the mockup of the lower hoses. I still have to trim the top one to have additional clearance but I will be doing that a little bit at a time. I ended up getting some pieces of 1.5" muffler pipe cut 3" long and will get my son to add a weld lip on the edge such that when we add clamps it cannot slip off the pipe, I will get pictures of the final product and add it to my post as well.
20180416_194228.jpg you can see the new hose to the right of the air filter
20180413_194242.jpg you can see where it comes down in the upper left corner, there is a connector there, turns 90 deg. to the right and meets up to the last piece which you can see where I have tentatively marked where I will cut both of these to allow them to connect together at that point. There will be a connector there as well.

I will try and have the hoses butt up cleanly so you don't see the connectors only the two clamps. I am also looking into a 1.5" braided sleeve to cover it from the top to the bottom to have a cleaner look and cover the joint as well, but will still see the T-Bolt clamps. At a minimum I will put the sleeve on the upper portion for now to make it look clean at least from the top. If I can find a small piece of 1.5-1.75" shrink tube to cover the ends that would really make it look clean.

[1932]

I wielded a half piece of exhaust pipe for the hose to nest in by the belt idler. You may have room as i moved engine.

[AJT '33]

So finished the hose mockups, air filter and time to tighten down the fittings as the goal this weekend is to be able to complete hooking everything up, wiring, plumbing etc... and turn over the engine to allow the new fluids to be pushed through the motor and allow us to check initial pressures. Once that's done it's on to installing the plugs and connecting the last of the wiring, adding some fuel into the tank, letting that prime up and hopefully no leaks, then the hopeful moment of truth as a lot of you have already gone through!! Yes, I will post the infamous first start video which is tradition!!

No driving around yet, just first starts and then a blitz to get the body back on, lock it onto the firewall, fit up the doors, trunk, hood, bottom lip, then the process of adjusting, sanding, levelling, aligning, then on to primers and a lot of manual labor to sand smooth everything together. That will be a full onth of work for sure. Once thats done, tear down, pull the bosy and parts to send them off to paint. While thats underway we will be doing all that clean up work on the wiring, hoses such that when the everything starts coming back from aint, its final assembly time!! (after the go-karting has happened as well!!

Exciting times, not bad since starting this project at the beginning of November last year. Looking forward to getting the next 6 weeks under our belt!!

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[AJT '33]

Couldn't wait to turn over the engine and hear its first heart beat! Now to finish all the base wiring to really here her heart!https://www.facebook.com/andreas.tan...56370599814732

[RoadRacer]

Couldn't wait to turn over the engine and hear its first heart beat! Now to finish all the base wiring to really here her heart!https://www.facebook.com/andreas.tan...56370599814732

link won't work to non-friends I guess?

[AJT '33]

Like all others who have done this... After 5 months of weeknights and weekends working to get this baby we finally got it started on the FIRST turn of the key!!!!! Thanks to all that have helped through all your posts and feedback!https://m.facebook.com/story.php?sto...2&id=519699731

[AJT '33]

link won't work to non-friends I guess?

I changed it to Public, Thanks!!

[AJT '33]

Well, now that we have a running engine we are encountering a few really weird things. Discovered that both BBK headers leak inside of where the pipes come from the engine to the connection plate where its suppose to be welded, seems they are not. Not sure what to do or if they are suppose to be welded all around from the inside of the open end of the header. Will be going to FFR today to ask the question but I have a video which you can hear clearly (and I can feel it) that there is blow out from there. Since everything is installed I would have to have to pull apart the exhaust and replace the headers if they ship new ones.

So all of you which have BBK headers I would highly recommend that you pressure test them to ensure that they are sealed up properly.

Here is the location: Tanzer 1028 - BBK Header leak location - 2018-05-01.JPG

UPDATE: FFR is sending me another set of headers to replace these, as always they've come through for me/us.

[AJT '33]

So a new issue cropped up which is kind of weird, I run into an issue when plugging in the connector on to the tranny connector, like in the attached picture, where when plugged in, it pins up the dial to 60 or 80mph and the odometer starts counting up? I am using the FFR Harness with the Ford Racing Harness so what is in the manuals all are in sync, I have a TKO600 trtanny however when I plug the harness on to the tranny the speedometer pins and the odometer starts counting up. Would appreciate if those of you that have this setup get back to me as I am knod of stumped right now.
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Any onsite is appreciated. Have contacted FFR and will be calling Tremec as well.
https://www.facebook.com/andreas.tan...340934732/?t=1

[erlihemi]

I would go straight to the Auto meter manual or Autometer tech support. This sounds like a pre cal check and you need to do another step to get it in sync with your application. Like turn the key off and on 3 times fast, once slow, and point the car towards magnetic north while plugging in the OBDIII diagnostics... Let us know.

[AJT '33]

I would go straight to the Auto meter manual or Autometer tech support. This sounds like a pre cal check and you need to do another step to get it in sync with your application. Like turn the key off and on 3 times fast, once slow, and point the car towards magnetic north while plugging in the OBDIII diagnostics... Let us know.

So here's the end result, Speedo is fine, the setup did not need the second Grey wire on the Speedo, it goes to ground. Since no computer is running the speedo it only needs the signal from the magnetic sensor on the transmission. Once done all is good until I try and run it in gear to see if all registers, might do it on the lift tomorrow. Here is the link to the schematic, it did not come with the Autometer gauge but got it from Dave at FFR. http://www.autometer.com/media/manual/2650-1164.pdf
20180503_194208.jpg it the grey wire in the upper right that gets removed and grounded.
Thanks to Dave from FFR for getting the right schematic to us.

[AJT '33]

Lots happening and it all built up to our first go-kart run!!! I posted a short video of my son on his first run in the car here: https://www.facebook.com/andreas.tan...6412193409732/ we both were shaking with excitment when we got out of the car!!! Need to tune the engine now as the low end RPM's are jumpy as if the engine was missing fuel then surged to catch up, we will see once I find a local tuner shop that I am comfortable doing the tune. In the meantime I will get the body on, align it properly and start the process of getting the doors on, the trunk, hood and bottom from lip as well as the engine side covers even though I most likely will not use them, better to have them fit and aligned regardless. Still need to figure out the headlights with the added blinkers the province is making em add on to the front. As well the additional side markers need to be chosen and finalized such that they can have the least amount of impact on the look of the car.

Will be using a few days off this friday and part of next week to get a jump on this. House care and summer stuff will take priority however getting this done by July is still the goal!

[TDSapp]

I saw your video this morning on Facebook... That car sounds great. You and your son have done a great job on this car.

[RoadRacer]

Lots happening and it all built up to our first go-kart run!!!

Well done, I'm going crazy waiting for my go-cart! I keep starting the motor and playing with it, but no transmission yet. Hope to place order from Forte's in June..

[JimLev]

Nice video, haven't fired mine up yet, still have to finish the wiring.
Hope to have wheels in a week or so.

[AJT '33]

So had a little bit if a hiccup when we first ran the engine, when slowing down the engine was bucking and we had to press on the clutch and use the brakes to slow down rather than letting the engine help it out. Was all over the car thinking that the fuel pump was not supplying enough flow, then thought it was in the tune and then looked a little further and through Facebook posts and conversations realized that the root may be the Speed Control Unit.
For background I have a 2013 F150 engine with the base harness lugged into the Ford Racing harness and the FFR harness. All was hooked up as per instructions and the car ran, but it was VERY sensitive. Through the discussions we got a copy of the 2015+ wiring mods that needed to be done and realized it was not for ours as the setup was not exactly the same, however, my son soon traced that the solution may be a lot simpler than we all even thought. What ended up happening is that the pin "39" was already wired and we need only to splice into it. I have attached photos of the solution as well as a quick little video which I hope works out.
https://youtu.be/TBOLc-GgDEw
Pictures as follows:
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[AJT '33]

Been a while since I posted anything, as I have the body back on and have started fitting up various fiberglass parts such as the doors. Moving along slowly trying not to create more work for myself, have the passenger side door fitted and will be working on the drivers side next then the trunk and then move on the the hood and front lip at the same time. once all is fitted and locked in then its off to the races in getting the body faired in. Stared gapping the doors on the bottom at 3/16" and then was going to do the same on the verticals but they look too big a gap so I am using 1/8" thick aluminum shims for now which I think will give me a gap along the verticals around 3/32" once primer and sanded.

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Figured out that a good use for a 32 tooth hacksaw blade makes a good corner cut tool after the oscillating saw cuts (I took tin snips and angled the front of the blade too)

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[wallace18]

After building over 10 of these FFR kits I understand how you like the look of 1/8" gaps. They will not work in the long run due to flex in the body and panels. You will end up with chipped paint and fiberglass, IMO. 3/16" is the minimum suggest by FFR for a reason. But who knows maybe you will prove us wrong. Just my 2 cents worth. Car is coming along very nice.