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Thread: Black&Copper - 33 Hot Rod #1028

  1. #241
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    I feel for you Andreas. That sucks. I have a buddy who lives on a river outside Ottawa. So far his place is okay but in general it's really bad....
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  3. #242
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well after spending ten days at our other home making sure the waters were at a manageable level and the pumps controlled the water in the basement (its only 54" so no damage) I am finally back to work on my toy.

    After searching and researching sandpaper (never realized what an impact automotive sandpaper has versus what you get in the store!!), i picked up some Norton "Dry Ice" 400 and 600 2-3/4" wide rolls of sandpaper. Also got a conversion strip for my sanding blocks to go from a sticky paper to a velcro based paper, very cool. This paper cut quick, you need to clean it frequently, but it reduces the effort substantially and does a phenomenal job, well work the $34CDN a roll!

    Also before sanding, took a n LED light and marked each location that has any size of pinhole that appeared after laying down the KD3001 HOK black primer. There will be some areas where I will need to do a small repair and others where just sanding down the primer will take care of that irregularity. All the prep work was well worth the effort to get to this point. You have one shot to get it right, its worth going the extra few miles to get it right. This primer sand amazingly well and the Norton sandpaper makes a huge difference on it, I tried another sticky brand however that clogged up and started rolling the dust nearly right away unlike the Norton paper would take a bit longer and would clean much easier. Dry sanding based on my painters recommendation, would have wet sanded but I can ow see not only the difference but also how you can better visually manage how much sanding you need to do to obtain that clean smooth surface. It'll be a few weeks of sanding to the two levels however if all goes well in two weeks we will be spending the weekend in a paint show getting that color and Show Klear down!!!

    20190507_200001.jpg 20190507_200022.jpg 20190507_200029.jpg 20190507_200004.jpg 20190507_201810.jpg 20190507_201804.jpg

    Typical small pinholes to repair prior to sealing and paint (these are the two worst ones others are mostly dimples)
    20190507_202502.jpg 20190507_202545.jpg
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  5. #243
    Senior Member ztoolman44's Avatar
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    Amazing build. Thanks to you and all those who take the time to share the photos.

    Glad to see you weathered the storm.

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  7. #244
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Haven't posted in the last little while as I am still sanding and correcting those unnerving little details. That, combined with finalizing the sale of my kids home and getting them moved out and into their new home (unfortunately taking our grandchildren across the country, which means I need to get this done to have a distraction for both my wife and myself), has taken me away from getting further along. Will be bringing the car to a local Honda dealer where my son knows the owner to do the alignment. The good news is that it is a straight drive on type so it sits at floor level so no worries of anything scraping or hitting the frame. Will do it with the body off and then probably once more when everything is assembled and complete to tweak it in.
    20190526_115458[1].jpg

    I never realized the true difference in sanding primer with 400 and 600 dry Norton sandpaper (I have tried others but the Norton sandpaper takes a lot longer to start to clog up which makes a HUGE difference) versus wet sanding until doing this work. It's more work in one way (and messier), however in another you can see the progress better as your sanding down the primer, so you can limit the amount of sanding before going too far and cutting through the medium build primer. Consistently using a long sanding block helps as it also makes a big difference in removing those waves in the finish and having the body and other parts as smooth as possible.
    20190526_115446[1].jpg 20190526_115449[1].jpg 20190526_115453[1].jpg

    I also got the road to my shop finally dug out and covered in gravel so no more mud and gunk in the tores, just some gravel which can be cleaned off easily enough!! Most likely will pave the main strip at one point as well once the funds all it!
    20190527_160523[1].jpg 20190527_160501[1].jpg

    The next few months will be very exciting for sure!!
    Last edited by AJT '33; 06-04-2019 at 08:17 AM.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

  8. #245
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    So you know its getting real when you can go ahead and get the car on the alignment machine. My son coordinated with a garage beside his to get the car on roll on alignment machine. Close to 2 hours later and three resets of the machine (front was that far out!! ) and a base alignment is done. Now once the whole car is assembled we will need to return and redo the alignment but that should only be a half hour of work as the setup and program are already in the computer.
    20190608_082935[1].jpg 20190608_092449[1].jpg 20190608_092514[1].jpg 20190608_092725[1].jpg 20190608_094500[1].jpg 20190608_102128[1].jpg 20190608_102229[1].jpg 20190608_104244[1].jpg 20190608_104301[1].jpg 20190608_104447[1].jpg

    We used a Shelby Cobra GT baseline however my son ended up tweaking it a bit. We will most likely use a F150 baseline as we will be able to get the proper caster setup without the machine screaming at us. Very cool technology used today!

    Now to get the body and other parts painted possibly this weekend, getting very itchy now to get this thing done!!
    Last edited by AJT '33; 06-10-2019 at 09:55 AM.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  10. #246
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well this week should be very interesting. Nearly completed the setup for the last touch ups of all the parts that will be painted the Jet Black from HOK. Added barrier walls along with all the wall filters and floor evac fans to allow the proper air flows and limit any residual fume. Discovered plastic abatement tape which sticks to everything (It sticks to concrete as well) however does not leave residue behind when removed. All setup and ready for the last touch ups and primer this week and hopefully color and clear at the end of this week or this Saturday!!
    20190616_193345.jpg 20190616_193336.jpg 20190616_193325.jpg 20190616_193318.jpg
    20190616_192912.jpgTaped to the concrete floor 20190616_113342.jpg Also built all the support stands to ease painting
    This is the abatement tape roll received_325002621779764.jpeg
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  12. #247

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    I'm curious about the tape. Did you get it at the local Big Box Store or some specialty place?
    Keith

  13. #248
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by progmgr1 View Post
    I'm curious about the tape. Did you get it at the local Big Box Store or some specialty place?
    Keith
    I actually bought it at a local Abatement company that specializes in abatement supplies. My son-in-law who was with an insulation company, used it to stick to floors, wood studs etc... to keep the spray foam from getting on the surrounding area, he left me a roll and told me where to get it locally. It virtually sticks to anything. I paid $10 CDN a roll for 60 yards of 3" tape https://www.echotape.com/products/vi...ly-vinyl-tape/ is the link for the company, you can source it in your area.
    Last edited by AJT '33; 06-18-2019 at 07:22 AM.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  15. #249
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    That is quite a setup. I’m try to determine what to do in my garage. I think I’ll need to have a pipe frame with the plastic. Is you air coming from the top and then out the sides?
    - Peterh226 #1134
    '33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
    Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
    YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
    AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10

  16. #250
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by peterh226 View Post
    That is quite a setup. I’m try to determine what to do in my garage. I think I’ll need to have a pipe frame with the plastic. Is you air coming from the top and then out the sides?
    I ended up setting it up as a cross draft system, the bulk of the coarse filters on the far end and the fans on the opposite side with finer filters on the side that can be uncovered if needed. I have three 24" 3 speed fans on the ground opposite of the coarse filters, will see if I need to raise them or not to ensure a good draw of the fume away from the parts. Was going to run large ducting on the floor to draw down and away from the parts however decided I was going overboard. Will see how it works tonight when we do some more touch up primer and then can see the fume movement.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

  17. #251
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    Nice setup for a spray booth ! Set your windshield and back window in place to make sure they fit properly before your final paint. Learned that the hard way

  18. #252
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by duff33 View Post
    Nice setup for a spray booth ! Set your windshield and back window in place to make sure they fit properly before your final paint. Learned that the hard way
    Yup, done it, will be trimming back the rear window a bit to have a more even clearance. My glass guys said this was not a problem as the window is laminated (A1) and not tempered so they can do it. They alsop have an edge trim that will take up the gap so the look will be clean all around both front and back.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

  19. #253
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    Perfect, what is the edge trim if you don't mind me asking. I put the windshield in myself and the urethane did not sweeze out to the outside edge in a couple of places, should not be a problem for holding in windshield but the body being white and the urethane being black it just cosmetically doesn't look good. I have been searching for a trim the would cover that, thinking of running a bead of black silicone around the edge but that could be messy if I can smooth it out uniformly.

  20. #254
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by duff33 View Post
    Perfect, what is the edge trim if you don't mind me asking. I put the windshield in myself and the urethane did not squeeze out to the outside edge in a couple of places, should not be a problem for holding in windshield but the body being white and the urethane being black it just cosmetically doesn't look good. I have been searching for a trim the would cover that, thinking of running a bead of black silicone around the edge but that could be messy if I can smooth it out uniformly.
    I will need to get back to you, the one that he described that I liked best was described as a round bulb with a tail, the tail would be glued in by the adhesive and the bulb would sit between the edge of the window and the hardtop (pressed into place at the right height by the installer). The other was about the same but lapped onto the windshield about a half inch which I thought might not look as good. I hope to have the window installed in the next month or so.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

  21. #255
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Final primer applied and now to sand those areas and then everything to 600 grit dry prior to painting the base coats and clear top coats by the end of next week.
    20190619_205718.jpg 20190619_205641.jpg All ready to go
    20190620_212308.jpg 20190620_212258.jpg Primer applied and unmasked to dry. Love the foam edging to keep the painted edges soft and tapered.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by AJT '33; 06-21-2019 at 08:00 AM.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

  22. #256
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    Thank You, I understand that, have seen edging like that from several vendors

  23. #257
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    You’ve got to be excited...the suspense is killin’ me and it isn’t even my car!
    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

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  25. #258
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well my Canada Day weekend ended up being a Painting Day's Weekend! Once I got all of the parts primed, washed, cleaned and ready, we kept finding little things that needed to be addressed, mostly pinholes that were present mainly from punching through the Gelcoat but also because of not having an initially thick enough build of Polyester primer prior to the base sand down. Those two items would have alleviated a lot of headaches and would have shortened my finish sanding time substantially (note, all my sanding was done by hand using various longboards, no DA sanding was done after initial priming).

    If I have a piece of advice for anyone starting to do body prep work: Get all your fiberglass parts installed on the car, prep all your mold joint lines first (basically get any air pocket out don't worry about hollows yet), don't worry about levelling and straightening out the parts yet either. Next, once that prep is done you then go and get a good layer of polyester primer over all the parts (I removed all my parts to do this to make the application easier then replaced all the parts on the body, made for good practice as well), 70-80% of that polyester primer will be sanded off removing the high spots, however it will also allow you to see all your hollows. You can then proceed to fill in those areas which are your hollows and get them faired to the rest of the body, this will save a LOT of time and headaches. Once that's done go ahead and get a good base coat of urethane primer on (in my case I am using House of Kolor products, others may vary but the baseline of primers and prep is the same, just the grit finishes may vary). Once the second primer is on you can concentrate on getting that panel to panel trueness needed for your car. Then everything can come off your frame and the final priming and sanding can be done, if I would have done it this way I would have cut my prep and sanding time in half and would most likely driving my car by now.

    Well that's neither here nor there as my base paint is ALL DONE!!!! Well... there is more to do as in color sanding and then polishing but that's expected. Regardless the base paint finish out of my home made booth turned out better than expected, we learned real quick to keep the floor damp and not wet prior to painting the three base coats of color and also prior to the three clear coats of HOK Shimrin Show Klear. The one thing I am glad to have done is spent the extra money for the HOK paints, clear and primers, it made a huge difference in my eyes. The amount of post sanding and prep prior to buffing will be minimal. In reality I could leave it as is and be very happy, but since I am going to this level of detail and finish I might as well see it through. So here you go, these are a few pictures of the final result of our in house painting within my shop space, extremely pleased and can now get on to assembly. These are next day shots of the dried paint and not wet paint.

    20190630_130823.jpg 20190701_193403.jpg 20190630_130804.jpg 20190630_130757.jpg 20190701_193420.jpg20190701_193445.jpg 20190701_193435.jpg 20190701_193537.jpg 20190629_191427[1].jpg
    20190701_193022.jpg Had to move my chassis and some of the painted parts from day one and two to my house garage for space and protection!

    All in all the amount of prep work and the final results surpassed what I wanted. I will however, be getting my detailer (who the person I had lay down the paint knows) in to have the inside of the doors color sanded (smoothing the clear really) and buffed prior to assembly. He will be doing all the areas that would no longer be easily accessible, or accessible, but visible, after assembly. Once all the parts are on the car, he will then go ahead and complete the color sanding as well as applying a ceramic coating called C.Quartz. The same detailer that my painter (who laid down the paint for me) knows is trained and authorized to do the application of this product, it takes approximately three days to complete the application on a regular car so mine may take a bit longer for mine. As he will be doing this after assembly any minor scuffs or scratches can be corrected prior to its application and completion. More to come as we now progress forward!!!!!

    All in all it has been a "ride" but now we need to get the "Mistress" certified and done before the end of the summer!!
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  27. #259
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    Man that looks fantastic. And I plan to take advantage of your advice for sure, not gonna pass on the opportunity to cut the bodywork time. Thanks for posting this info.
    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

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  29. #260
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    That is an awesome job and ya'll should be extremely proud!
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

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  31. #261
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    Beautiful !!!! That is a fantastic paint job

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  33. #262
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    That is darn impressive Andreas. A testament to your body prep and also to the friend who layed down the paint. Thanks for the tips on the body prep!
    Steve
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well, once all the paint was done and then I let it sit for a good week, sometimes in the morning sun only, it's time to once again start the "Sanding" process!!! I knew that there would be more sanding however I never thought it would be so detailed to get that close to perfect finish I have always wanted to have on my car. I started the sanding on some small parts to get the feel of how much I will need to sand off the surface to get that smooth finish and based on the current finish it is not much thankfully. However, my friend who is helping me along in the process told me we were not going to use a DA sander, were going to do it all by hand, old school, CRAP!!!

    Regardless, since I am a glutton for punishment and also since my father was a Master Woodworker for sailboats, going old school and getting it done correctly really does not phase me, it just means there will be a lot of Advil in my life at night until it's all done, hopefully in a few weeks before I go on vacation!!

    So here is what I will be doing to get that near show car finish I am hoping to achieve. I will be first sanding with 1200 grit wet paper with a good stiff block (nothing to flexible otherwise you will see the waves of those areas you pressed harder on that will show up as hollows) to knock down all the surface ruffles, nibs, minor orange peels or any surface irregularities. Using wet paper and a block will get your surface flat. I will then be following that with and even cut of 3M Trizact P1500 Hookit clear coat sanding discs and then an even cut of 2000, 3000 and then 5000 using the same 3M Trizact foam hook and loop discs with a hand disc adapter), all done by hand. Once the main cut to get the surface flat is complete, the others are only used to remove the previous grits cut marks only! I have three healthy coats of HOK clear so I expect to only get through one of the coats.

    Here are a few pics of the current parts I have been working on:
    20190706_205509.jpg 20190706_205520.jpg 20190711_214501.jpg 20190711_214507.jpg
    It does not look great in the pictures but you can see the shine underneath just waiting to brought out!!

    It's going to be a process but I am told by everyone I know who has done this for their car, says it's worth it. I have done this for sailboats and other applications including furniture in my house I built (well maybe not to 5000 grit but to 1500) so I am hoping that it will turn out to my liking as well. Knowing what my father had done in the past and what I have done with him I am confident that it will work out well. I hope to make him proud even though he is no longer with us.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  37. #264
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well more clear coat sanding and also getting all those miscellaneous parts setup and painted. The one part that I decided to do a little differently is the front grill. Decided to have it sent out and powder coated to a Copper color powder coat that was as close to what I have been painting my other parts. My wife received it today and I am anxious to see how it looks in real life. Right now the plan is to sand prep it so I can coat it with a base black color all over then take some 320 grit paper and very lightly sand off the black base to reveal the copper powder coat below. Once I have the graded look I want, I will be sealing the deal with multiple coats of clear. The grading will go from a solid black at the top to the "worn" looking copper at the bottom to give the impression that over time the black has been worn through.

    Once I see the actual grill tonight I will be able to make final decisions on this. My powder coater sent me this picture as a teaser, I will take more tonight and post as well.
    IMG_2669.jpg

    UPDATE: SO after discussion with the "boss" we have decided that we will leave the grill portion the burnt copper and do the treatment to the frame around the grill pickets themselves. A bit more work taping off and sanding carefully, however we think this will look better in the end, we will see!
    Last edited by AJT '33; 07-17-2019 at 07:22 AM.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  39. #265
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Grill looks great as is but excited to see how it looks after you give it the "treatment"...
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  41. #266
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well everytime I move forward I discover a new little tool or product that helps in the progression of the build. Here is a small kit that I took a chance on and VERY glad I did. In building my own paint booth within the garage I have nibs on the top areas of the parts that were downwind of the initially painted parts. Not a big deal ($100CDN, worth the investment) however if you want that smooth look and you don't want to oversand any one area. This little kit allows you flatten those nibs and not create a hollow where the nib is in the clear or oversand around the nib or even small fish eye. It allows you to stay flat over the nib to knock it down. Works great for all those nuisance areas and allows you to have a uniform smooth surface when you go ahead and do your 1500 to smoothen the clear and then the subsequent 2000, 3000 and 5000 before the compounding and polishing. I did learn yesterday that I should not go any less than 1500 grit otherwise it takes more effort to blend it.
    20190712_201136.jpg 20190712_201130.jpg 20190712_201121.jpg 20190712_201118.jpg
    It has a variety of grits from 1000 to 3000 which allows you to use it to touch up paint and blend it back once your on the road and need to do something during the winter months!
    PS. Not promoting 3M products however in the case of this kit, and using the Trizact sanding discs, I can tell you its well worth the extra expense as it does produce a more consistent and even surface than the less expensive discs that are a third of the cost, in my opinion.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  43. #267
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Now that I am well into getting the clear sanded, I am looking forward to planning the assembly of various components, one of which is the installation of the door panels including the door arm rest/door pulls. There is nothing really on how these get affixed in the guide so I am at a bit of a loss as to how they get them installed so they dont pull on the panel which does not really have a good attachment to the door frame, only on the thin fiberglass shell. Will be posting on Facebook as well to see how others have handled this.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  45. #268
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    This is the way i did mine so that handles are in a workable place, and not on door panelIMG_8532.JPG.

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  47. #269
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Continuing to multi task now, I have been sanding and prepping to polish as well as planning further assembly work.
    Last night I got the hard top all sanded to 5000 and it looks great, at least I expect it will once polished.
    20190722_195922.jpg 20190722_195910.jpg 20190722_195845.jpg

    My friend who is helping with the paint came by last night and I told him that I was hoping that all the sanding work I have been doing over the last few weeks is going to pay off. What I didn't know is that he brought his cut and polishing equipment with him in advance of him doing the prep work before we ship it out to have a professional Ceramic Coating applied. So he took one of the first parts that i had sanded and proceeded to do a quick compound cut and a polish. Last night I got a glimpse into what the mistress will look like and all I can say is WOW!!!! Even though I can see a few areas that need attention, I was very pleasantly surprised and VERY HAPPY with the results. I never realized how hard it is to take a good picture of a shiny part. The following pictures really don't do it justice (and the dust bunnies love it!) as well the grainy look is the reflection of the screen from my window on the left!
    20190723_IMG_1982.jpg 20190723_065036.jpg 20190723_065010.jpg 20190723_065006.jpg

    This now gives me that last drive to have all the rest of the parts sanded so we can get to buffing!!!
    Last edited by AJT '33; 07-23-2019 at 07:44 AM.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  49. #270
    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    Lovely!
    33 Hot Rod #1133. LS/TKO600
    Delivered 6-17-19. Started work 7-3-19. First start 9-6-19. First drive 9-24-19
    Titled 2-28-20

    MkI.IV 2643k

  50. #271
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    Your door alignment post is great. #205

    This is really good advice. I needed help from a friend to hold the door in the right place while I tightened the bolts, but with a couple of washers and persuasion it aligned well. Just remove the hinge pins so you never need to do it again.
    Last edited by peterh226; 07-23-2019 at 09:16 PM.
    - Peterh226 #1134
    '33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
    Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
    YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
    AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10

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  52. #272
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    So everything is sanded to 5000, trunk lid is sanded and fared to 800 grit to allow me to apply spot touch ups to the base and re-clear the deck lid completely. Will be assessing the body to see if we can somehow do the same however try and blend the clear. Hopefully the paint and clear being so fresh can possibly blend well, if not a complete re-clear of the body will be necessary and a complete re-sand thereafter! (and that would take 3-4 evenings!!
    20190728_163025.jpg 20190727_184636.jpg 20190728_145935.jpg

    These are the two spots on the body (kinda frustrating and mad at myself!)
    20190727_184608.jpg 20190727_184623.jpg

    And the rework for the trunk lid
    20190728_200458.jpg
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  54. #273
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Hang in there, it's too bad it burned through but not the end of the world, just more work unfortunately.
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  56. #274
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well back from 3 weeks vacation in Europe, now I am very anxious to get this baby buffed and assembled so I can go ahead and get to that magic place of being able to bring it to our local DMV for inspection! I know I have a few months left to get there (need to work and travel to pay the bills!!) however I am now even more stoked to get her done!!

    Started sanding the perimeter of the radiator grill to get it painted black and "aged" a bit before getting it remounted and putting the front end together to have the engine started once again.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

  57. #275
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well finally got back into the shop last night did some cleaning and organizing as well as a little work on sanding the grill contour.
    20190716_183318[1].jpg Unfortunately I forgot to take some from last, will update the post tomorrow.

    Also reviewed the changes that my son made to the wiring, after getting frustrated with the way it was setup in the wiring harness versus how we setup the cars dash panel and components he bit the bullet and pulled off all the coverings and re-routed the wiring such that it sat better and could be placed in a much cleaner layout. Even though the pictures don't do it justice, the end result under the dash makes life easier to layout and even later expand.
    20190810-WA0000[1].jpg 20190811-WA0001[1].jpg 20190811-WA0002[1].jpg 20190811-WA0003[1].jpg 20190811-WA0004[1].jpg

    Once its all done I will post additional pics, unless I forget to take some!!
    Last edited by AJT '33; 08-22-2019 at 11:57 AM. Reason: Updated pic links. Thx FF33Rod
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  59. #276
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Tonight, amongst finishing the prep work on the grill I will be setting up my existing chromed headlight enclosures for paint as well. Anyone have experience in the preparation of the chrome to ensure good adhesion for the paint? I am planning to sandblast the chrome smooth to eliminate all the shine, then use an etching primer like I had used for the aluminum parts (which worked great... so far) then go ahead and smoothen, re-prime then do the normal base coats and clear coats. Any feedback from those with experience doing that is appreciated.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  61. #277
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Got all the grill sanding done, cleaned up and taped off, anxious to see the final result of all that minutia sanding between the grills. Crossing my fingers that I have all the existing powder coated grills taped off and sealed to not get any overspray or blow back. Needed to be patient to make sure that each grill rod was taped off properly.
    20190824_202039.jpg 20190824_202024.jpg 20190824_202044.jpg 20190824_195113.jpg

    Was also able to get most of the misc. parts painted along with the faux gears I 3D printed for setup on the shifter arm. Will need to sand thema bit and reclear to get the better finish but the initial paint looks good.
    20190824_120201.jpg 20190824_120206.jpg 20190824_120155.jpg

    Also my wife spoke with a friend and an opportunity on a 1930 Model A, went and took a look and ended up buying it! Now I have my next project in a couple years to cleanup, repaint and have fun with. Polar opposite of this build!
    20190825_134426[1].jpg 20190825_134416[1].jpg 20190825_134456[1].jpg
    Needs a lot of TLC on the interior and a lot of cleanup, but that's OK.

    PS. If you need to rotate a picture, change the name of the pic by changing the last letter or number and it will look properly when posted.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  63. #278
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Looking good. congrats on the new/ next project. That’s awesome.
    -Steve
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  64. #279
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well the attempt to fix the burn through went, well OK. One of the two blends turned out fine and with some sanding and buffing should be fine. The other one ended up sagging as my painter put too much blender on the clear and it dissolved it too much. Lesson learned, if you need to do a blend only put a dusting on.
    20190830_132218.jpg 20190830_132223.jpg 20190830_132234.jpg 20190830_152945.jpg
    This how it looked when it was polished before touching up and blending
    20190829_213529.jpg
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  66. #280
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well polishing has officially started after my screw ups in sanding were corrected. The results are turning out just fine and now the fun started to get the polishing underway and complete so assembly can be started with the body, then the doors along with all the stuff that gets connected to them. Here's a few shots that I took which shows the depth of the black once polished. Will be very interesting to see it all down to this level and then sealed with a Ceramic coating.
    20190903_212141.jpg 20190903_212134.jpg This shows the reflection of the wall in the top of the dash as its hard to see it in a picture without it as to its depth of color.
    20190903_212122.jpg 20190903_212113.jpg 20190903_212100.jpg

    Now back to working all those detail parts as well!
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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