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Thread: Black&Copper - 33 Hot Rod #1028

  1. #201
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Got the final fit on the waterfall with the slots cut. While I continue with other things to get done, need to figure out an elegant way to fill in the slot and create a seal.20190221_224654.jpg 20190221_224645.jpg 20190221_224049.jpg

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  3. #202
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Started setup on the arm rest for the center console. Going to wrap it in copper and use the same black rivets as I used on the firewall to put it together. Black and Copper! 20190223_211305.jpg 20190223_211301.jpg 20190223_214453.jpg20190223_214449.jpg

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  5. #203

    Ol Skool

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    Quote Originally Posted by AJT '33 View Post
    Got the final fit on the waterfall with the slots cut. While I continue with other things to get done, need to figure out an elegant way to fill in the slot and create a seal.20190221_224654.jpg 20190221_224645.jpg 20190221_224049.jpg
    Nice work on the console! If your not putting a slot in the waterfall for the roll bars make sure you finish any wiring for things like power windows, 3rd brake, stereo etc. before final bolt in if you use the hardtop. The waterfall gets trapped by the other interior work also. I think the new HR changed the waterfall construction.

  6. #204
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    Aj---going back to your doors, what were a couple of things that helped the most to correct the problem with the lower drivers door being out of alignment so far. I have the same problem and not sure what to do. A couple of suggestions would be very appreciated.

    Rick

  7. #205
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 60's Kid View Post
    Aj---going back to your doors, what were a couple of things that helped the most to correct the problem with the lower drivers door being out of alignment so far. I have the same problem and not sure what to do. A couple of suggestions would be very appreciated.

    Rick
    Hey RIck, I just happened to write this up on another blog where someone else was struggling to get the shell to line up to the body, here it is:

    Don't Panic. I ran into the same thing and after numerous attempts and calls with Tony, I finally figured it out and its not that hard, I'll try and describe the process and then hope this helps.
    1 - Fit the door shell to the opening without the supporting frame, this will allow you to ensure its alignment, don't worry about the alignment of the door face to the body at this point.
    2 - Once the shell is fitted (I kept minimal gaps), get the door support arm fit to the body with all the clearances, then remove it and get the slots in the door aligned so you can get the hinges into the door.
    3 - Follow the instructions in the book and other videos to get the door installed with the bear claw latch, DON'T install the strike pin yet.
    4 - OK, now using the four 1/2" bolts at the hinge side of the door, loosen and align the rear of the door as close as possible to the body, don't worry about the front at this time. Once aligned now your ready to adjust the front. The rear bracket that sits on the door can be connected to the FG door via a couple 1/4" bolts spaced far apart. This will also hold that alignment and make further minor alignment easier later
    5 - Now in the front, where you have the two 3/8" carriage bolts that connect the arm to the plate that's connected to the bear claw latch, dependent on if the top or bottom of the door at the front is misaligned, you will loosen these bolts and carefully add in spacer shims either above (BETWEEN THE PLATES) the top bolt to move (twist) the bottom of the door in or under the bottom bolt to move (twist) the top of the door in. This may take a few tries but be patient, it works and the fiberglass door is flexible enough to take the minor twist to it. Tighten the bolts thereafter to hold it all together (I added only a 3/32" shim on the top to pull the bottom of the door in and the top out splitting the difference and also getting better alignment to the body/frame as well.
    6 - Now go back to the rear and, if necessary, lossen either the top or bottom set of bolts to allow you to further move the door shell in or out as necessary. (This is where the two 1/4" bolts come into play to hold the shell to the bracket).
    7 - Now your ready to mark, setup and align the front striker pin.

    You may need to go back and forth a bit however once aligned when you pull the two rear pivot pins the door goes right back into its place. I know these are broad strokes of an explanation but its easy and it works, I just wish that I had realized this before trying to do the body work as extensively in some areas as I have done. This is also why i tell everyone one to get the body and doors installed and done first so they can cruise through the rest for the most part. I truly hope this helps, I will get some picks of the front shim I put in and edit the post, the doors now close with little to no effort

    Regards,

    Andreas

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  9. #206
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well moved along with the console and picked up my copper and started to mount it to the frame I built. Thank god for CAD and the ability to design something and then unfold it to be able to print it, takes out the guessing to get that perfect line. Now will be making the top frame and starting to mount it together. Once done will mount it and figure out how to mount the cover, will want to have it hinged. Will be mounting multiple switches on the angled face for various controls such as high and low beams, door unlocks and power windows.
    20190227_202612.jpg 20190227_202621.jpg 20190227_203226.jpg 20190227_202616.jpg

  10. #207
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Lots to post today, 3D printed my third brake light and inserted the light I bought from United Pacific Industries into it. Placed it such that the back of the housing will be flush to the hardtop as well as the soft cover when going topless. I will be snaking the wires through the back of the housing and under the hard top edge or the soft cover to a grommet in the middle of the hard top seal so you can't see them. Will be using automotive adhesive tape to mount the housing. After three randitions, the simple look ended up being the best one. Now to do some smoothing and prep work for paint!
    20190227_194602.jpg 20190227_195025.jpg 20190227_195031.jpg 20190227_195037.jpg
    20190227_195241.jpg running light intensity
    20190227_195244.jpg braking light intensity (if someone can't see that, they should not be driving!!)
    Last edited by AJT '33; 02-28-2019 at 12:56 PM.

  11. #208
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well on to the next and possibly last major challenge, the suicide door safety latch. I was going to install an Autloc kit with the aluminum flat bar and pin but space in the door really sucks with power windows. So I packed up what I ordered and returned it ($300 USD) and will be trying another method which I can latch manually, for now, then figure out how I can add a single I will be designing a latch that will swivel on pivot and lock in place and hold the door. the fixture will mount under the dash close to where FFR mounts the hood latch handle, so I will need a lew home for that. I should be able to make it reversible so I can use it on either side. If someone has done something like this then please speak up as I would like to know.

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  13. #209
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Got the copper console welded up, need to take some time this week and sand and polish it all up!
    20190309_161557.jpg 20190309_161603.jpg

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  15. #210
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    I need to figure out how to replace this switch for the headlights. It also dims the interior lights on the console. I'm not crazy about the look with the nut on the outside.
    20190309_170425.jpg

  16. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJT '33 View Post
    I need to figure out how to replace this switch for the headlights. It also dims the interior lights on the console. I'm not crazy about the look with the nut on the outside.
    20190309_170425.jpg
    How about a headlight switch bezel from Summit, Amazon etc. Just a thought.
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 376/480, 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter,
    Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires

  17. #212
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    How about a headlight switch bezel from Summit, Amazon etc. Just a thought.
    The question is which one would fit? I actually wouldn't mind as it needs to be marked however fit would be key, might drop a note to Tony Z and see if he he any info on them that got. THX.

  18. #213

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    Quote Originally Posted by AJT '33 View Post
    Well on to the next and possibly last major challenge, the suicide door safety latch. I was going to install an Autloc kit with the aluminum flat bar and pin but space in the door really sucks with power windows.
    I bought door poppers, don't think I can use them either.
    For door safety latches I'm looking at these.
    https://watsons-streetworks.com/prod...ety-lock-pins/
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

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  20. #214
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    Check out Ron Francis or Watson's street works. for light switch options.

    https://www.ronfrancis.com
    https://watsons-streetworks.com

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  22. #215
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    I bought door poppers, don't think I can use them either.
    For door safety latches I'm looking at these.
    https://watsons-streetworks.com/prod...ety-lock-pins/
    I looked at those as well however what they don't show is the actuator and how wide it is when installed. With the motor for the power windows in the bottom front of the door, when that actuators is installed it would cover the PW motor. As well the pin may not be long enough to go from the door to the body which is also a problem. I ordered the AUtoloc version and ended up returning it. i would make sure you can return it if it does not fit correctly. I am working on a simple manual one for now and will most likely try and make it convertible to one using an actuator later, we will see.

  23. #216

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    I haven't got a far as installing the power window parts yet however I'm pretty sure the motor mounts to the lower rear side of the door. Let me know if I'm wrong.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

  24. #217
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    I haven't got a far as installing the power window parts yet however I'm pretty sure the motor mounts to the lower rear side of the door. Let me know if I'm wrong.
    Your right, still thinking the traditional way of the way the door swings. Will be interested in how it works out regardless as there is a very limited amount of space in those areas and the length of the pin still may be an issue, may need lengthening.

  25. #218
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    I tried installing the sliding seat racks in the 33. When I tried to install them it did not set it up exactly as they prescribe in the installation instructions, I am wondering others modified their track connections and where the track ended up? I am curious as when I set it up the 2.5" dimension works from the back of the rack for the rear mounting holes and not to the center of the existing mounting hole as in the diagram. As well when I set the seat down, I find that the bolting holes of the second to last crossmember is a better fit to have the seat as far back as possible with a forward travel of ~5". This however requires a new hole in the slider track as well. Would appreciate others experiences in the install and how they look under the foam seat. (sorry forgot to take pics, will add tonight)
    PS. did others need to add a 3/8" spacer so the seat frame does not sit on the slider handle?

  26. #219

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    Another door thing I just realized.
    There is no mention of putting drain holes in the bottom of the doors which might be a good thing to do.
    Water from washing the car and getting caught in the rain is sure to get inside the door thru the window slot.

    Seat sliders.
    I raised mine up, pics should be on my build page.
    See post 146, got them here.
    https://www.4wd.com/p/mastercraft-sa.../R-GNNN-620030
    Last edited by JimLev; 03-12-2019 at 10:06 AM. Reason: Added post # and link
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

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  28. #220
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well got into wiring the last of the switch buttons and the relays in their relay boxes. As I changed out a lot of the switches that came from FFR. My son and I both dont like wiring however he is actually good at it!
    20190316_205534.jpg 20190316_155000.jpg
    Black & Copper ("The Mistress" as per my wife! ) #1028
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, Plated & on the Road: ??? 2019??
    Andreas

  29. #221
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    Definitely drill drain holes in bottom of doors.

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  31. #222
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well when you think your fine sanding theres another area that needs it. soldered the copper together and sanded it to 3000. Now I'll get some buffing paste and polish it up.20190319_205539.jpg 20190319_205544.jpg
    One small deep cut to fair out and then mark and drill for all the button switches.
    Black & Copper ("The Mistress" as per my wife! ) #1028
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, Plated & on the Road: ??? 2019??
    Andreas

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  33. #223
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJT '33 View Post
    Well when you think your fine sanding theres another area that needs it. soldered the copper together and sanded it to 3000. Now I'll get some buffing paste and polish it up.20190319_205539.jpg 20190319_205544.jpg
    One small deep cut to fair out and then mark and drill for all the button switches.
    Nice work! That is outstanding.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19

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  35. #224
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    You know you must be getting closer to completing all the details when you start searching for details to finish!! Worked on adding some hidden space (well not so hidden since I am showing it here!!) to allow for some additional storage. Made the templates in cardboard the way I would want to make it out of 0.040" aluminum so I could simply use cardboard as a cut template. I sealed the outside and the inside joints and will be spraying it with gravel guard.
    20190317_095143.jpg 20190317_095146.jpg 20190317_095153.jpg
    My wife suggested adding some thin insulation and using it for a small cooler for sandwiches and "drinks" when we go on outings... can't say that's not a great idea!!

    Will be working out the attachment with a seal and that will be done. On to adding my windshield washer bottle and sprayer (found some really cool low profile sprayers, will get pics soon) with the hoses tomorrow and then the trunk and hood release. Once those are in I get the mirrors on and basically I will be good to do the last fairing of the body aaannnnnndddd... off to paint!!!!! (Can't believe I actually wrote that finally!!) Would really like to have everything painted and back in the shop by the Easter weekend. Crossing my fingers!!
    Last edited by AJT '33; 03-21-2019 at 07:42 AM.
    Black & Copper ("The Mistress" as per my wife! ) #1028
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, Plated & on the Road: ??? 2019??
    Andreas

  36. #225
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Continuing to make progress, got the rear trunk cable and latch in while I was prepping my third brake light housing I designed and 3D printed. Looks good just need a few touch ups and it'll be ready for paint.
    20190322_203229.jpg 20190322_203222.jpg 20190322_202721.jpg 20190322_102310.jpg
    Black & Copper ("The Mistress" as per my wife! ) #1028
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, Plated & on the Road: ??? 2019??
    Andreas

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