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Thread: Black&Copper - 33 Hot Rod #1028

  1. #281
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    It's looking so good even I'm getting anxious for you to finish it
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  3. #282
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    That is fantastic!!!!!!!

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  5. #283
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    And we continue to polish however my son is doing a bang up job in cleaning up the wiring!! Unfortunately due to the delays he is struggling to remember some of the schematics that we did not write down so its taking a bit longer to button up.
    20190916_180537.jpg

    Will be starting to re-assemble this weekend and get the grill and radiator back on so we can do a restart of the car, its been way too long since we had her running!! Looking forward to seeing the grill on the car all nicely painted up! Its hard to see the color contrast between the burnt copper grills and the Jet Black contour.
    20190913_183145.jpg
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  7. #284
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Details, details, details, mock up, look at it, decide if it's what I want, try again, make a final decision then start the cleaning and painting process. I thought fairing the body panels was tough, deciding on what the finishes are are tougher!!
    Welded up the details for the stick shift, added the brackets I put for the gears in and welded them on. Ground the welds and placed a layer of primer. Now need to cut off the top threaded portion and weld on a socket cap bolt so the custom shifter ball I bought a year ago fits and looks best. Will also be modifying the base so I can screw it in, lock it and slip it on and off of the shifter boot. 3 of the 7 gears were installed to keep its shape.
    20190921_114621.jpg 20190921_114625.jpg
    20190921_114629.jpg My son welding in flip flops!!!
    Next up this week, copper cover plates for the door striker, door hinge cover and body hinge slots, as well as starter key backer.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  9. #285
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Started loading up my polishing guy with parts that are sanded and it's hard to resist not posting pics when he sends pics like this!
    20190924_162222.jpg
    Last edited by AJT '33; 09-30-2019 at 09:50 AM.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  11. #286
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Had a slow weekend, found out on Friday that our little puppy girl of 14 years had generalized cancer and we needed to put her down as she was suffering, hit me hard as she was always there for me when things got tough in life, will be missing her an enormous amount!! Damn Cancer!!!
    20190615_112739[1].jpg We will miss our Maggie Mae!!

    Having the car to change my mind and keep my sanity as well as cranking up the tunes was great, I at least got my stick shift, primed, painted, and assembled, looks as good as I was hoping it would!! I may add our dogs names to the arm as a momento to her.
    20190928_071831.jpg 20190928_071835.jpg 20190928_071839.jpg 20190928_071845.jpg (and yes the interior gears do turn!)

    Also started assembling items now that the areas where the polishing was done, here I added the louvers for the heater which are required by our local authorities.
    20190928_073241.jpg 20190928_093908.jpg 20190928_093929.jpg Painted burnt copper and affixed with brass bolts.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  13. #287
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Looking fantastic Andreas! Sorry to hear about your dog, they're one of the family and is just as tough when losing them....
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  15. #288
    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    Truly sorry to hear about your dog. I lost two in the last couple of years, both of whom we had for nearly 15 years. Each of them died laying in my lap and still upsets me to this day. I’m not sure you ever fill the hole, you just get used to having it.
    33 Hot Rod #1133. LS/TKO600
    Delivered 6-17-19. Started work 7-3-19. First start 9-6-19. First drive 9-24-19
    Titled 2-28-20

    MkI.IV 2643k

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  17. #289
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    It's nice to see some items come together now that all the work my son and I have done gets added to the various areas of the build. Things start to get exciting now on the various areas of the car!

    Dash Panel is in, now for the gauges!!
    20191001_192820[1].jpg 20191001_193022[1].jpg 20191001_192826[1].jpg
    Pictures don't do it justice!!
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  19. #290
    Senior Member Taz Rules's Avatar
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    Hey Andreas.
    Really sorry about your dog. I've had dogs my whole life, and the one thing I can tell you is that they give you some of the best days of your life... and the one worst. I'm truly sorry.

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  21. #291
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    So the work continues, Getting the finish work completed on the door hinge covers in copper. This helps cleanup the look where the slot was overcut a bit and there are not so clean edges. I had made a cardboard template for the body side however I placed in a safe place which now I cannot find!!
    20191005_151445R.jpg 20191005_151122R.jpg 20191005_144824.jpg

    We also got the grill back on and started reconnecting the hoses and electrical to get to the point of being able to restart the engine and get fluids back in.
    20191005_203240.jpg 20191005_203244.jpg 20191005_203304.jpg

    Hopefully the weather will cooperate we can get it started and running this weekend and go for a go-kart ride again!!
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  23. #292
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    Looking good! Sorry to hear about your dog. They are a great example of unconditional love.

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  25. #293
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    It's all in the details!!

    Not much to show in the lats little while, work and life has kept me/us busy lately!

    Finally was able to get back to doing the detail work like sand blasting and detailing the chromed headlights and applying an epoxy based primer so I can start the process of prepping and painting it the same black as the rest of the car. Trying to figure out a good process to get the light hardware either painted, or copper plated to match some of the other details I am putting into the car.
    20191110_200019.jpg 20191110_202332.jpg 20191110_200225.jpg 20191110_202327.jpg 20191110_202322.jpg

    I have a issue however with the person that is doing the buffing, polishing and CQuartz, he unfortunately has not been putting the effort in lately and I will most likely be pulling the parts out of his shop this week as I can no longer wait on him to get them done, I need to get this baby completed and registered!! I will either have to learn how to polish or find someone else who can do a good job that has experience doing so, unfortunately in my area its very difficult to find someone!
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  27. #294

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    Sorry, but I haven't been following your build in enough detail to understand your polishing issues. However, I found a good primer called "An Introduction to Buffing and Polishing", published by Caswell Electroplating. http://www.caswellplating.com The booklet covers everything you need to know to polish parts yourself, should you be so inclined. HTH Keith

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  29. #295
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    So have not been posting that often as work comes before play and the bills need to be paid so I can keep this going!!

    Regardless the buffing and polishing is finally moving forward once again! After a delay and some prodding my parts are finally coming out the way I wanted/expected them to be. Here are some pics of the final products (no comments on the bedding please as its my kids old room and now my grandkids rooms). Since they are now polished and sealed with CQuartz nano ceramic coating I am keeping them in the house and not in the shop to keep them clean and out of the way of harm. The four fenders and trunk lid is next, then the inside of the doors (before they get mounted) and we move on to finishing the interior along with final assembly!!!
    20191116_101422R.jpg 20191116_101417.jpg 20191116_101457.jpg 20191116_101435.jpg

    Looking forward to the final product now!!
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  31. #296
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well, had a productive week/weekend. Now that work trade shows are done I feel like I can move forward once again. Started to button up those PIA portions of the build that have been sitting there and staring at me like they're taunting me! Got to working on completing closing in the trans tunnel top, once done I will be able to lock it in place and then get the two part glands to seal around the cables. We can then button up the last of the electrical for under the dash and leave the tails dangling until we need to plug them in when the body goes on.
    20191130_200825.jpg 20191130_200830.jpg

    While I was working on all the miscellaneous crap my son made headway in getting all the gauges moved from the jig onto the Dash Panel, you can start seeing it come together now that the various parts that took a while to do are coming to life. We also added in the three LED's for the turn signals and the high beam indicator (those are the three dots you should be able to see).
    20191130_162918.jpg 20191130_162852.jpg 20191130_145840.jpg
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  33. #297
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well finally the last major portion of my build is painted! I had decided that the headlight housings needed to be black instead of the chrome as previously posted, well they're done and look fantastic. They're going to be cooked and then will let sit for the next month while I proceed to button up the final interior assembly and then get the body on. At that point things should go well as most everything from here will be assembly work with minimal fabrication.
    20191207_094752.jpg 20191207_094737.jpg

    As well, I expect to start the Mistress up this weekend to ensure that everything is still working properly as my son has basically completed the wiring rework (for the third and final time). Also got time to add some southern decorations to complete the outside of the shop!!
    20191124_151842[1].jpg
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  35. #298
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well I am not sure if this will post well as I see the blog site seems to be funky right now. Continuing work on the last item that needs completion being the trans tunnel cover, will have that done this weekend.
    20191130_200835.jpg

    Then its time to start the mistress again, get the anti-freeze back in and ensuring there's no leaks and then setup for the installation of all the interior works which covers up and starts making it look like a finished car. The last of the hard to Polish areas continues and some of the small little dimples in the paint are showing up, will need to prep and dab some clear in them to "fill" them (they are very small and I'm probably being too picky) so they can cure then I can sand them smooth to allow us to assemble the car parts.
    20191216_195246.jpg 20191216_204248.jpg

    As well looking at the different areas in which we will need to modify or setup differently, the intent is to have the car substantially assembled during the Christmas holidays which would be my Christmas present!!
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  37. #299
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    Just a suggestion, but while looking at your console pics I see that you have quite a number of splices and connections/elbows, etc for your heater hose. My experience has been that using worm clamps in the smaller sizes like that often results in leaks after some time due to the rubber hose compressing and the clamp no longer provides sufficient clamping force. You might want to consider reducing the number of connections (possible leaks) inside the car like that. And also, isn't that area where you are penetrating the firewall right where a passengers feet will reside?

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  39. #300
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sread View Post
    Just a suggestion, but while looking at your console pics I see that you have quite a number of splices and connections/elbows, etc for your heater hose. My experience has been that using worm clamps in the smaller sizes like that often results in leaks after some time due to the rubber hose compressing and the clamp no longer provides sufficient clamping force. You might want to consider reducing the number of connections (possible leaks) inside the car like that. And also, isn't that area where you are penetrating the firewall right where a passengers feet will reside?
    Hey sread, yup I hated it too but had no choice, needed to add in elbows, did not have them before but the bend was too sharp and I ended up with a kink.
    20190902_163719.jpg

    Regardless I ended up with better worm clamps that are not only wider but also thicker which allows them to be tightened better. As well, if you noticed, I placed all the clamps in such a manner that IF I needed to tighten them, they are all pointed out so they are all accessible (did check when the body was fitted).

    As to the foot placement, I will be making a removable cover/shield that will protect that foot area and also act as a shield should that, for whatever reason, one of the hoses let go it will protect the passengers feet and limit the spray.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

  40. #301
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    It’s nice to have the polishing done and having various portions setup and ready to go. Last night I started fitting and setting up for installation of the various door components such as the rear hinge covers and the wiring guide for the door electrical. Hope to keep the progress moving forward as I slowly re-install the various components and see what I am missing to paint before being installed!
    20191217_193511.jpg 20191217_193517.jpg 20191217_193520.jpg 20191217_193719.jpg

    This weekend will be interesting, will spend a morning helping a friend form our local car club, who's battling cancer, get his project car started, after he got most of it done then fell ill and needed chemo treatments and couldn't get completed his engine transplant among other things. Will be a nice Christmas present if my son and I can pull it off and get it started for him! He needs to hear the life come back into his car for sure!!
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  42. #302
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    What did you use to cover up the door hinge holes? I plan on covering mine up too. Was thinking 22 gauge sheetmetal or something along those lines.

  43. #303
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tony View Post
    What did you use to cover up the door hinge holes? I plan on covering mine up too. Was thinking 22 gauge sheet metal or something along those lines.
    I actually used 0.032" copper sheet, I made a cardboard template to get the fit and look I wanted then simply transferred it to the copper and carefully cut it out (copper is a PIA to drill and cut!!). I have done other stuff in 0.032 aluminum and then primed and painted it to match some of the burnt copper details I have on the car like some of the bolt heads etc... The trick is to make it with a thin stiff cardboard, cake boxes or poster cardboard works great and is cheap. A Dremel with a disc for metal is best to cut out the slots or openings in the middle, I used some double sided tape to hold it on a piece of plywood to keep it from moving around, just be careful removing it so you don't bend the metal. Hope this helps.

    I did the same for the body side as well as the striker pin for the door.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  45. #304
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well I did say its all in the details, last night I sandblasted, primed and painted the fasteners for the cover plates amongst others. Turned out nicely so far, more tonight!
    20191219_191950.jpg Template drilled with fasteners installed
    20191219_192806.jpg Fasteners sandblasted, flipped over template to have clean surface
    20191219_194817.jpg Cleaned, primed and then painted to the Burnt Copper color, now they need only dry for a few days then I'll bake them to harden them

    Now its fun again because I now know this baby is going together now!!
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  47. #305
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Well body is setup, frame is waiting on some last changes and additions so we can get that body on!
    20191221_122157.jpg
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  49. #306
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Merry Christmas and a prosperous and Happy New Year to everyone!!
    Xmas Santa!.jpg
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  51. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJT '33 View Post
    Merry Christmas and a prosperous and Happy New Year to everyone!!
    Xmas Santa!.jpg

    Same back at you! Enjoy the build in 2020!

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  53. #308
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJT '33 View Post
    Merry Christmas and a prosperous and Happy New Year to everyone!!
    Xmas Santa!.jpg
    Same back to you and all the others.
    Isn't that the same pic I posted last year, lol?

    Almost the same, I edited the license plate.

    33Sled.jpg
    Last edited by JimLev; 12-24-2019 at 03:49 PM.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

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  55. #309
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    So winter has officially arrived to my neck of the woods and its evident when you need to take your wife's car that has a 1/2" or more of ice on it, and put it in the shop to "thaw" so you don't have chunks flying off into other drivers windshields!!
    20200120_205340[1].jpg 20200120_205324[1].jpg

    Now the weather should stabilize to a point so I can get back to assembling the interior and getting the body on!!
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  57. #310
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Tonight I will be working on a totally different concept for a secondary door safety latch/pin. I am looking into a completely different approach to this secondary device to secure the door in case of a failure of the bear claw latch. I am sourcing right now a micro linear actuator (if anyone has access to these please say so, Amazon has them, they may not be strong enough, but I am looking at a local supplier first) that can be mounted on the the body side that would have enough of a stroke to engage the door (roughly 75mm). There are various types which can be used however the ones I have found so far you need to manually engage and disengage the pin with a switch. What I am trying to do is have it setup such that if the actuator loses power or the power is removed it retracts. When powered by a switch it would engage into the door, I don't want it to engage automatically, I want it set to a switch to engage it and then when I either turn off the engine it disengages or when I override it with the switch, it disengages. This is the stumbling block that I have now however I may have found a controller that could do the trick. I expect to have it worked out in the next week or two as I need to have it installed possibly before the body goes on (will make it easier to setup).
    Here is an example of one of these linear actuators.
    4in Linear Stroke Actuator.jpg
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  59. #311
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    Last edited by shmelty; 01-21-2020 at 05:13 PM.

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  61. #312
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shmelty View Post
    If I'm looking at your diagram correctly it still needs power on the unlock relay to retract instead of defaulting to unlock when power is removed. In case of battery failure.
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

  62. #313
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    A couple of comments
    1. I would be concerned about the ignition activated feature. Seems like one way or another you're going to destroy paint as sooner or later someone on the passenger side is going to have the door open when the car starts and tries to shut it with the pin deployed
    2. If you want the pin to retract when power is removed or the power dies then I don't think you want a linear actuator as they tend to need power to go either way. Sounds like you want a spring loaded assembly of some kind that activates with power and then returns to a resting position when there's no power. But I'm wondering how the situation could occur where the latch is engaged and power dies. The only time the latch is engaged is when you're in the car and likely the engine is running - lots of power. The battery is likely to die when the car has been sitting for ages and the battery runs down - but then the latch won't be engaged anyway. What am I missing?

    Steve
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  64. #314
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    A couple of comments
    1. I would be concerned about the ignition activated feature. Seems like one way or another you're going to destroy paint as sooner or later someone on the passenger side is going to have the door open when the car starts and tries to shut it with the pin deployed
    2. If you want the pin to retract when power is removed or the power dies then I don't think you want a linear actuator as they tend to need power to go either way. Sounds like you want a spring loaded assembly of some kind that activates with power and then returns to a resting position when there's no power. But I'm wondering how the situation could occur where the latch is engaged and power dies. The only time the latch is engaged is when you're in the car and likely the engine is running - lots of power. The battery is likely to die when the car has been sitting for ages and the battery runs down - but then the latch won't be engaged anyway. What am I missing?

    Steve
    Hey Steve, the way I was going to set it up was similar to what you explained with some differences, here is the way it will work if I can find the correct model/type of linear actuator that has the features I want based on the description

    Scenario 1 - Car is turned off (no power) the actuator is retracted
    Scenario 2 - Car is turned on the actuator is still retracted, however if the door is closed and I want to engage it I would press a button and it would extend to lock the door and a red LED under my dash would go out
    Scenario 3 - Car is turned on and actuator is engaged, if I press the button again, it would disengage a red LED under my dash would go back on
    Scenario 4 - Car is running and I turn it off, the linear actuator retracts automatically

    Currently the more robust linear actuators I have found so far all require power to engage and disengage (for the larger models I am looking at). I have also found very small ones that are used in the cabinetry industry that require power to disengage, otherwise they would be always engaged due to a magnet built into it, they also have a small shaft (1/8" dia.) and a small stroke (10mm) which would not cut it.

    So what i am looking for is a linear actuator that has a force of at least 10-20 pounds and has a 1/4" shaft, disengages or retracts automatically if there is no power and engages with the press of a button (closing the circuit) that allows power to go to it until that power is removed by pressing the button again (opening the circuit). If anyone knows of a supplier that may have this please send me their contact info!! Thank you all!!
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

  65. #315
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    JOP33 installed some. They are spring loaded. See post 702

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post3928832.jpg
    Last edited by shmelty; 01-22-2020 at 02:38 PM.

  66. #316
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    How about installing the old style light switch in the rear door jamb and wired into the circuit so that the pin only engages when power is on and the door is shut. If power is on, the latch is spring loaded and stays open, shut the door and if power is on (engine running) safety pin engages. You could also wire in an overide switch and a indicator light if necessary. I guess the overide would be mandatory if you want to exit the car while its running. Just a few thoughts.

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  68. #317
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    So work continues on all the items that require wiring that is outside of the base assembly. My son and I worked on various areas, one being the stereo and the sub-woofer. My son did the final cuts for the radio housing in the trunk, since my radio is Bluetooth enabled I did not need it in the main cabin so I created an inset box where I could mount the radio and amplifier. Here my son is doing the final cut on the hole to allow for the mounting of the box underneath.
    20200125_111146.jpg cutting the opening
    20200126_153833.jpg after the box was mounted (previously fit and built) and radio/amp pre-fit
    20200126_153838.jpg final fit and base mounted
    The radio and amp will be covered with a black polycarbonate cover that will sit about a 1/2" above the carpet and have an opening on the top to access the top of the radio and an opening on the face to see the Focal name on the amp.

    As he was completing that I mocked up, in stiff cardboard, the box that will cover the sub-woofer, getting the correct volume is critical for the best sound. As well trying to fabricate the box so it slips in is a trick in itself.
    20200125_125141.jpg this was the base template before it was cut out, then once fitted, trimmed, modified a half dozen times and checking volume, I will unfold it and lay it on a sheet of aluminum, mark it and refold it in aluminum with assembly tabs etc...
    20200127_211238.jpgTemplate after trimming and before marking on a sheet of 0.032" aluminum.
    Last edited by AJT '33; 01-29-2020 at 08:43 AM. Reason: added an additional pic
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  70. #318
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Oh those little details and things that keep everything else from being assembled!! Had the car up on the lift and my son and I were sitting on our reclining shop chairs (old office chairs), looking up at the underside of the engine at the control module for the engine and I had an idea on how to protect it and the wiring from road crap. I again made a trusty cardboard template and then transferred it to a sheet of aluminum, bent it up and made a cover that's removable for any servicing. Using 1" coated clamps, I was able to make a shield that would clamp to the underside tubing so I don't drill into them and also allows the removal of the shield if necessary.

    20180519_220559.jpg Exposed Control Module
    20191221_202054.jpg Template on the tin, used a 1" pipe to roll the portions that were wrapping the tubing of the frame
    20200127_211130.jpg Fitted shield, wish I had a small aluminum welder to clean up the seams and not use the rivets
    20200127_211143.jpg
    20200127_211016.jpg View on top of shield, will be adding a thin rubber pad to alleviate any tin impact sounds
    20200127_211156.jpg Coated hose clamp view

    Will be coating the entire assembly with black gravel guard so it blends in. You can't see it when looking from the side as its about the same level of the front lip when installed.
    Last edited by AJT '33; 01-28-2020 at 08:37 AM.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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  72. #319

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    Quote Originally Posted by AJT '33 View Post
    As he was completing that I mocked up, in stiff cardboard, the box that will cover the sub-woofer, getting the correct volume is critical for the best sound. As well trying to fabricate the box so it slips in is a trick in itself.
    FWIW, I'm also building subwoofer enclosures that fit into the chassis. One tradeoff I had was between box rigidity and volume, since I'm fitting into a restricted area. I spoke with a tech at Crutchfield and he strongly recommended that any speaker enclosure be built from plywood, MDF or similar material. (This advice is consistent with my years of experience as an audio system hobbyist.) These materials offer both stiffness and internal damping, so the inherent resonances will have less impact on the overall sound quality. The problem with aluminum or fiberglass enclosures is that they have very sharp resonances that amplify some frequencies and mute others - giving a very uneven sound output. The downside is that wooden enclosure walls are much thicker than aluminum, so if your overall box size is constrained you lose internal volume - impacting sound quality. However, you can mitigate this problem by filling the enclosure with polyester fiber stuffing.

    Also, I really like your ECM shield. I'm definitely stealing that idea! Thanks for sharing your build. Keith

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  74. #320
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by progmgr1 View Post
    FWIW, I'm also building subwoofer enclosures that fit into the chassis. One tradeoff I had was between box rigidity and volume, since I'm fitting into a restricted area. I spoke with a tech at Crutchfield and he strongly recommended that any speaker enclosure be built from plywood, MDF or similar material. (This advice is consistent with my years of experience as an audio system hobbyist.) These materials offer both stiffness and internal damping, so the inherent resonances will have less impact on the overall sound quality. The problem with aluminum or fiberglass enclosures is that they have very sharp resonances that amplify some frequencies and mute others - giving a very uneven sound output. The downside is that wooden enclosure walls are much thicker than aluminum, so if your overall box size is constrained you lose internal volume - impacting sound quality. However, you can mitigate this problem by filling the enclosure with polyester fiber stuffing.

    Also, I really like your ECM shield. I'm definitely stealing that idea! Thanks for sharing your build. Keith
    Appreciate the input, will be going to my audio specialist here (or he may end up coming to my shop at home) to make sure I can get the best out of the sub-woofer. Mentioned the poly fill and he agreed, he also told me to add sound dampening to the inside which will help mimic the rigidity of a solid box (as the exterior of the enclosure will be exposed to the elements). Next challenge is the door speakers, adding sound dampening to the door skin and seeing how I will 3D print a mount for the speaker to add it to the door skin (might make it generic sop I can make a Fiberglass mold and use it it either side). All kinds of fun assembling this thing!!

    PS. I intend to digitize the ECM Shield template so if someone wants to use the template I can send it to them if they/you like and they can just print it on paper most likely an 11x17 sheet.
    Last edited by AJT '33; 01-31-2020 at 09:57 AM.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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