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Thread: Curvy Road G3 Coupe Build

  1. #41
    I figured I would post another update.

    I am missing parts all over the place to continue work on the mechanics. I have had the Kit about 7 weeks now and not one of the backordered parts has arrived.

    Im still missing my steering rack and PS pump and mounts.
    Radiator mount brackets
    Rear suspension A armes
    Exhaust
    Header bolts
    fuel tank pump mounts
    Heat and AC...
    4
    plus a slew of other parts.

    With so many parts missing, I lost momentum and started to loose motivation. NOW I have a week off from work and it's real cold out. Great time to work on my winter project right.
    I switched gears to work on the body stuff.

    I have not identified a shop to do the body and paint for me. From what I am seeing from others 2-3 months wait is standard.
    Im looking for a shop that can do small & local car show quality paint and body work. In the past years I have done repair and restoration work myself including the paint and body work. Im too hard on my own work to enjoy the car once i'm finished. I find with body work I stare at the minor imperfections. and If i made them i know right where to stare. It's unsatisfying as the years go by. I plan to drive this car on the road a bunch. I am not looking to over complicate things with the color so candy coats and pearl top coats are not the direction I'm looking to go. BUT i do have detailed eye for very nice paint and body work. I personally do color sanding and polishing and very fine detailing of my other cars and i enjoy that part.

    If anyone has a body shop they recommend, Let me know. Price is less important to me than quality and on time delivery. I dont mind it taking a few months but if you say 2 months 4-5 kills it for me.

    SO, I switched things up and i'm working on getting the body ready for paint NOW. this should shrink the build time by a few months a hope.

    My current plan for completion is June 1 2018. I would like to drive the car for a few months while the weather is nice this year. Hmm.... Sounds like I just set a date. It's not a deadline just a projection...


    I got the rear on no-problem.

    Then came the nose.
    The nose took me about 6 hours to set and rough trim. Then another 6 to final set and install the latches. I installed the gas shocks right away. I was surprised how much it pushed the nose forward. I didn't have enough adjustment left in the joints to take that much out.
    I would guess the gas shocks pushed the nose gap open 3/8 of an inch.

    I ended up removing the shocks and the pivot mounts. I milled the slots in the pivot mounts deeper. after a few more hours and playing with placement of bumpers in the right areas, I'm real happy with how it is laying.
    All the curves on the back of the nose are matching up with the body very well. The pontoon gap is matching up nicely. I sanded in my 3/16 gap on the nose and rounded the edges.
    I powdercoated all the rear hatch and door brackets.

    Today I'm working on the doors


    IMG_9493_1067x800.JPG

    IMG_9495_1067x800.JPG

    IMG_9496_1067x800.JPG

    IMG_9505_1067x800.JPG
    as you can see here i shaved too much from the curved region I need to build up about 3/16" through a 12" region on this side. BUT that's it!

    I plan to build it up with resin and chopped cloth.

    IMG_9506_1067x800.JPG


    In order to get the drivers side front pontoon to line up I had to shim up the front door area of the main body.
    I had originally adjusted the front heim pivots until they were out of travel on that side. but then the curves were not matching where the body comes together.
    several times i removed the front Heim joints and used jack stands to set the nose where it wanted to be in a relaxed state. There just wasn't enough travel

    I ended up shaving very little from the passenger side of the nose and 1/2 inch from the drivers side before the gap at the pontoon matched the wheel arch in the nose.
    IMG_9509_1067x800.JPG

  2. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    You may want to take a closer look before going that way. At least know what you're getting into. You mention you have a 2015 Coyote motor from Mustang GT. That's the Gen 2 Coyote. AEM's website only talks about the 2011-2014 Coyote. They're quite different. Digging a little deeper into some AEM forum posts, at least as of several months ago they don't directly support the 2015+ Coyote. Some pretty deep workarounds or part changing options are described.
    Great advice. I didn't know the others using it were using the 1G coyote.

    As soon as I finish up the body installation and fit i plan to move into that next.

  3. #43
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
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    THat's pretty much what I had to do... in order to get my nose centered or extremely close was I had to push the pass side body as far forward on the A-pillar as far as it would go....then I standing on the passenger side door opening I had to "shove" the body over to the driver's side. I then put 1 self tapper in that side pontoon... Moving over to the driver's side... I pushed that side aft about 1/4 - 1/2 inch and then added a spacer UNDER the pontoon. You will want to put the rubber bumpers on there to make sure it will all line up after paint...and to keep the hood from chipping the paint while it shifts around driving

    I put one rubber bumper directly under the latch to give the body a place to press against so it doesn't shift around. You may find that the Passenger side U-bolt cannot be lowered enough at this point... I ended up re-welding a plate on there.. but FRR snap-on car had an off-set plate they made that did the job nicely... not sure the production cars are fixed.. but the beta car had a small issue here.

    for the rubber bumpers.. this is what I did and my gaps are pretty nice:

    3 bumpers along the horizontal
    1 Bumper on the curve (one on each side)
    2 on the pontoon (one under the latch and one at the wheel arch where the pontoon ends.

    I also put 6 of those bumpers in the opening for the rear glass to hold up the glass and to "pinch" it in place so it didn't shift around while driving.... initially I only had rubber seal, but it compressed and then the glass started to squeak against the paint and body... I can't stand squeaks! after the bumpers went in place... no more squeaks and the glass has a really nice "click" when it closes and feel SHUT and not just closed.

    FWIW anyway.

    As far the AEM... the only difference in the '14 to '15 that I saw is the ECU plug in which can be overcome by not using the plug and play harness... mechanically the engines are the same in the mind of the ECU... we were actually going to do this on my car but received the ECU too late... would have meant "de-wiring" the Ford ECU and harness out of the car... unfortunately I FULLY INTEGRATED the harness and it would have been a mess to go back and pull that all out given the time I had left. - I would do some research as was suggested...and then decide... but the sensors are the same- only difference is the coil connections changed.. but you an swap the coils out....ask me how I know
    Last edited by Erik W. Treves; 12-28-2017 at 09:58 AM.
    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

    FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ

    FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ

    FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's

    FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"

    US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)

  4. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by Erik W. Treves View Post
    As far the AEM... the only difference in the '14 to '15 that I saw is the ECU plug in which can be overcome by not using the plug and play harness... mechanically the engines are the same in the mind of the ECU... we were actually going to do this on my car but received the ECU too late... would have meant "de-wiring" the Ford ECU and harness out of the car... unfortunately I FULLY INTEGRATED the harness and it would have been a mess to go back and pull that all out given the time I had left. - I would do some research as was suggested...and then decide... but the sensors are the same- only difference is the coil connections changed.. but you an swap the coils out....ask me how I know
    I don't remotely claim to have all the answers. But looks like it's a little more complicated than only incompatible connectors. Cams are different, phasers are different, IMRC added to the Gen 2, just to name three. Phasers and IMRC can be locked out if you want to go that way. Just depends on what you want and how much you want to put into it. Especially since AEM doesn't seem to be directly supporting the Gen 2 right now. They better hurry. The Gen 3 crate is supposed to be out sometime in 2018, and it's got a whole bunch more changes. They've been in 2018 Mustangs for some months now.

    For a neophyte like me, plug and play with the Ford electronics was the way to go. It works, runs great out of the box, they helped me when I needed it, and when I decided to do a custom tune, there were numerous options. But nothing I would ever attempt on my own. Especially not bolt on twin turbos, even though it's the coolest thing ever.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  5. #45
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
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    Lol...yeah I like to color outside the lines... All I know is that wayne was hours from installing it in mine.... and then he saw how "neatly" I had integrated the ECU harness into the rest of the ron francis... so we opted the way we went... everything happens for a reason.... the 2018 motor I saw at PRI is a nice piece.... the motors are certainly getting more complicated.
    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

    FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ

    FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ

    FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's

    FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"

    US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)

  6. #46
    I got several hours in yesterday and several more today. Not rockstar days in progress! The doors are both installed they fit up very well in the end just took some time. Like others the rear bottom of the passenger side door sticks out a little so it will need a little more work with the sander before paint.

    I hate how the inside of the hinge area looks so unfinished. I would love to figure out a way to trim that all out.

    does anyone have any suggestions?
    Ill post some pictures tomorrow of where I ended up. I will say this thought the doors sure don't open too much. I have never see anyone elses car though. nothing seems wrong just less of an opening than modern cars made for overweight americans!

  7. #47
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
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    yeah send some pictures... I had to massage the upper part of the door hinge to open more ... I still could have gone more to really get it too open... also while you are there make sure you look at the latch pin.... is it long enough to engage the latch?
    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

    FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ

    FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ

    FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's

    FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"

    US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)

  8. #48
    Senior Member q4stix's Avatar
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    Jul 2016
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    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    135
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    I don't remotely claim to have all the answers. But looks like it's a little more complicated than only incompatible connectors. Cams are different, phasers are different, IMRC added to the Gen 2, just to name three. Phasers and IMRC can be locked out if you want to go that way. Just depends on what you want and how much you want to put into it. Especially since AEM doesn't seem to be directly supporting the Gen 2 right now. They better hurry. The Gen 3 crate is supposed to be out sometime in 2018, and it's got a whole bunch more changes. They've been in 2018 Mustangs for some months now.
    That sums up the changes well. I totally agree they're missing small, incremental learning opportunities that will leave them behind when the Gen 3 engine arrives. Seems silly to me.

    @forcefed1 and @Erik W. Treves,
    You can look at my build thread and at the Infinity thread on the other forum where I've been posting what I've found out about using the AEM Infinity on the newer engine. I got all the phasers to actuate but mid lock exhaust cams need to be unlocked right when the engine starts with a set cam angle which makes the idle higher and rougher than the Ford ECU logic (AEM told me they had no plans to change their logic even though I sent them how it could be implemented for both Gen 1 and Gen 2 seamlessly). The 2011-2014 engine harness can be used for everything but the CMCV which AEM doesn't support but I plan to control with one of their output channels and additional wiring.
    Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe builder

  9. #49
    It's been several weeks since i posted.
    I have been steadily piddling away.
    Im still waiting on lots of parts from factory five. the rear A armes and steering rack holding me back the most.

    I decided to go ahead and set the rest of the body. The rear hatch is installed. and the DOORS.
    next i moved into some custom fabricated items.
    the transmission mount is fabricated and installed.
    Im working on making some rear bins for the hatch area. I wanted one that could store sunglasses registration and little things like that.

    here are some photos.

    IMG_9516_1067x800.JPGIMG_9517_1067x800.JPGIMG_9518_1067x800.JPGIMG_9519_1067x800.JPG

    The doors took some time but they fit up very well. I will need to add 1/8" or so of material to the passenger bottom lip for about 1/3 of the length.
    I also need to add about 1/8" Of material to one 8" long section of the nose where the gap is too large on the driver side.
    Overall the shape fit up very well. lots of little tweaking and shimming. I am impresses with how little body work I will need to make it all fit very nice.

  10. #50
    Here are some photos
    of the rear transmission mount I made

    IMG_9520_1067x800.JPGIMG_9521_1067x800.JPG

    and some upside down pictures of it installed.
    I was able to use the FFR steel plate but I will need longer carriage bolts and i lowered it a little.

    IMG_9643_1067x800.JPGIMG_9644_1067x800.JPG
    Last edited by forcefed1; 01-17-2018 at 10:35 PM.

  11. #51
    I also made these nose ramps to help the nose roll on and off the U bolt latches.
    They are adjustable and work very well to allow the wheels in the nose latch bracket something to roll on and off of.

    IMG_9523_1067x800.JPG

    Here it is installed. It also works well to tighten the play in the latch mechanism.
    IMG_9642_1067x800.JPG
    Last edited by forcefed1; 01-17-2018 at 10:37 PM.

  12. #52
    then I finished the front brake brackets.
    the brackets allow me to use the factory five spindles and the 2015 ford brakes. I am using the front 4 piston 14" rotors and calipers

    IMG_9531_1067x800.JPGIMG_9639_1067x800.JPG

    I still have to tap the lower ear hole with a 12 x 1.75 mm tap .
    But you get the idea of how it fits. I also need to replace the lower ball joint boot as I tore it while removing the spindle to cut off the ear.
    I later learned after finishing the design and fitting it up, I didn't need to remove the spindle.
    IMG_9641_1067x800.JPG
    Last edited by forcefed1; 01-17-2018 at 10:42 PM.

  13. #53
    The body panel alignment looks great!

  14. #54
    Time for another update.

    I FINALLY got my rear IRS armes from FFR
    so the rest of the rear suspension is together and the brakes and clutch are bled.
    Now i have a roller! I was told buy a roadster builder once that a project like this will teach you patience. I had no idea FFR would be the one teaching it to me.
    Im hoping to get the exhaust soon and the steering components.

    I crafted some rear storage bins. the larger one is also my battery tray.

    IMG_9604_1067x800.JPGIMG_9621_1067x800.JPGIMG_9645_1067x800.JPG

    the floor will still be flat i have doors that open to expose the bins.

    my corbeau seats arrived. They FIT GREAT! I sat in them for a while. I really like the feel and support.
    I am 6'2" 195# with the pedals adjusted lower and the smaller steering wheel from the GTM, I think it's all going to come together for the interrior.

    IMG_9648_1067x800.JPG

    Here's the billet brake clutch fluid reservoir. I was going to use the FFR supplied ones but when I called to order a third one, they no longer had a matching one. I plan to powdercoat this billet one. The caps will be body colored and I will laser them.
    I have 2 SST FFR units if anyone wants one so they can have matching ones. PM me.

    IMG_9662_1067x800.JPG

  15. #55
    Since I have a roller I was able to measure for my wheels. I decided to go with some forgestar F14 deep concave wheels. It took me quite a while to get it all figured out. As soon as I thought I had the diameters and thickness and offsets, I couldn't find many tires.
    Then I went back to the drawing board. In the end I went with 19x12 rear tires. 18x10 front . There are far more 335x35 rear tires in 19 than 18" I wanted a tire that filled the wheel wells and was not a skilly black doughnut. The wheels are on order I should have them in a bout 5 weeks. looks like I'll be mounting toyo R888 tires. I have not run these before.

    also now that I have a roller I trial fit the front aero and splitter. THE SPLITTER IS AWSOME! What a cool piece!
    IMG_9661_1067x800.JPG

    I also ordered my rear wing. Now I need to weld some mounts on the frame.
    I cant decide if I should paint the mounts and wing.
    Maybe Ill paint the end caps of the wing and the mounts body color. and perhaps leave the wing carbon OR do the stripes only on the wing.

    Because I plan to leave the nose installed, I designed an integrated air jack system. I have always thought these are COOL in GT racing. they are a PITA for normal road cars as teh mounting locations are not easy to get to.
    I designed a system to bolt right up to the frame of the Coupe no welding. The aluminum air cylinders I designed will have 12" stroke. The body of the cylinder fits right into the bolt on mounts connecting to the frame. The whole system operates on 400PSI air. With that much pressure I can lift 3400#. that should be plenty. I found a small air tank that can hold enough air to lift the whole car 5 times. The whole jack system weighs about 25# including this tank.
    I plan to mount the tank in the rear fender well behind the tire of the car and charge it from a big tank that will stay in my garage.

    IMG_9663_1067x800.JPG

    Or I see I can buy an 800PSI air compressor on ebay for 400$

    Whatever I do the plan is when at the track and car shows or whatever... I have the onboard air for a few lifts. It'll also make changing tires and brakes real easy.

  16. #56
    Quote Originally Posted by forcefed1 View Post
    Time for another update.

    I FINALLY got my rear IRS armes from FFR
    so the rest of the rear suspension is together and the brakes and clutch are bled.
    Now i have a roller! I was told buy a roadster builder once that a project like this will teach you patience. I had no idea FFR would be the one teaching it to me.
    Im hoping to get the exhaust soon and the steering components.

    I crafted some rear storage bins. the larger one is also my battery tray.

    IMG_9604_1067x800.JPGIMG_9621_1067x800.JPGIMG_9645_1067x800.JPG

    the floor will still be flat i have doors that open to expose the bins.

    my corbeau seats arrived. They FIT GREAT! I sat in them for a while. I really like the feel and support.
    I am 6'2" 195# with the pedals adjusted lower and the smaller steering wheel from the GTM, I think it's all going to come together for the interrior.

    IMG_9648_1067x800.JPG

    Here's the billet brake clutch fluid reservoir. I was going to use the FFR supplied ones but when I called to order a third one, they no longer had a matching one. I plan to powdercoat this billet one. The caps will be body colored and I will laser them.
    I have 2 SST FFR units if anyone wants one so they can have matching ones. PM me.

    IMG_9662_1067x800.JPG
    Your build is looking great. A couple questions I am curious about. What model seats are those and do they recline? Also, how do you plan on attaching the GTM steering wheel? It has a different bolt pattern than the coupe wheel.

    Thanks,

    JK

  17. #57
    Last thing I did this weekend was begin the body work. I cleaned all the wax out of the seams with a wax and grease chemical cleaner. then, I grind out most of the body panel joints I used 4.5" angle grinder with a 80 grit sanding disk. Actually I spend quite a few hours on the joints of the nose this weekend. . What a MESS! I got the majority of the nose filled back in with about 4 coats of Rage Gold filler. I spent quite a while with the sanding block. I don't really have much experience with fiberglass but I have a little with metal body cars. I will say this, I used more body filler this weekend than ever before on my cars. However the overall lineup of the FFR joints is pretty good if you asked me. I could have had it much worse from waht I have seen on early model FFR cars.

    it's late so I will have to get some photos posted of that whole process some other time.

    I am paying someone to do the body work and paint the car for me. the more I can do now the less time it will take him. Unless i make it worse.

  18. #58
    Senior Member q4stix's Avatar
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    Seattle, WA
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    How on earth did I miss the Jan 17th update after all this time? Oy.
    Nice work on the body panels and the custom parts you're making. Makes me want to go straight to a NC setup on my mill (well, aside from the expense). The hood latch parts are a cool take on getting everything to line up and roll smoothly.

    The seat looks good as well. Is there any gap on the sides of the seat? Is it the height you'll mount it, like mounting brackets, tilt, etc? How is the clearance to the roll bar? My head seems so close to the bar at all times

    Keep going, I want to see what other touches you add to the build!
    Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe builder

  19. #59
    Excellent Fab skills+++A

  20. #60
    It sure is a fun way to spend the winter huh guys!

    JKviper. for the steering wheel, I fabricated an adapter to connect to a quick release hub. I will be running a center button. I don"t have it installed here.
    IMG_9695_1067x800.JPGIMG_9696_1067x800.JPGIMG_9697_1067x800.JPG

    I have intentions of doing a custom dash and door panels to match the diamond pattern in the seats. the dash will stay simple but put the main larger gauges inset to the front

    The seats are reclining. they are corbeau RRS

    https://corbeau.com/reclining-seats/sportline-rrs.html

    I'm mounting them straight to the floor. There is no need for the reclining. I suppose the recline lets you set your preferred angle.

    they sit very low. however I still have my head in the roll bars.

    q4stix... i tried the NC route with a knee mill years ago... ran it through MachV and built the whole system myself. Be careful its a slippery slope. In no time you will be looking for better surface finishes and higher spindle speeds more rigidity and a cabinet to hold the mess.

  21. #61
    I started the body work.
    Here are a few photos of the nose.

    Before getting started I snapped a few photos for the DMV paperwork.
    Anyone got any tips for getting this thing registered in VA.
    I figured id start the process now and as teh body work progresses I can finish it and have a plate sooner.
    IMG_9676_1067x800.JPG


    IMG_9680_1067x800.JPG
    first my son and I cleaned all the wax out of the seams with a wire brush little picks and wax and grease remover.

    Then I ground down the gel coat at the seams. And put the first several coats of rage gold.
    IMG_9682_1067x800.JPG IMG_9686_1067x800.JPG IMG_9692_1067x800.JPG
    IMG_9687_1067x800.JPGIMG_9688_1067x800.JPGIMG_9690_1067x800.JPG
    Last edited by forcefed1; 02-12-2018 at 11:11 PM.

  22. #62
    Quote Originally Posted by forcefed1 View Post
    It sure is a fun way to spend the winter huh guys!

    JKviper. for the steering wheel, I fabricated an adapter to connect to a quick release hub. I will be running a center button. I don"t have it installed here.
    IMG_9695_1067x800.JPGIMG_9696_1067x800.JPGIMG_9697_1067x800.JPG



    I have intentions of doing a custom dash and door panels to match the diamond pattern in the seats. the dash will stay simple but put the main larger gauges inset to the front

    The seats are reclining. they are corbeau RRS

    https://corbeau.com/reclining-seats/sportline-rrs.html

    I'm mounting them straight to the floor. There is no need for the reclining. I suppose the recline lets you set your preferred angle.

    they sit very low. however I still have my head in the roll bars.

    q4stix... i tried the NC route with a knee mill years ago... ran it through MachV and built the whole system myself. Be careful its a slippery slope. In no time you will be looking for better surface finishes and higher spindle speeds more rigidity and a cabinet to hold the mess.
    Thanks for the response, love the steering wheel fabrication. I may borrow that idea on my Coupe build.

  23. #63
    Very jealous of the seat room in the new gen 3. Would've liked some of those seats, they look great!

    John
    Making progress on the "My Coupe, my way" project.

    http://s956.photobucket.com/albums/ae46/jdcoupe1969/
    Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Fast EZ EFI
    First start Sept. 18 2013 First go kart Sept 19 2013

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