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Thread: Edwardb’s Gen 3 Type 65 Coyote Coupe #59 Build: Gen 3 Coyote First Start!!!

  1. #481
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul G View Post
    There are not a lot of good options for mounting computer, this is what I did, it is similar to where it is on the Mustang, etc on the Mustang it is cover with more wire and a fuse block.[/URL]
    Shows once again there are multiple ways to approach this. I'm not sure the larger Gen 3 PCM would fit there given everything else going on plus I have power steering. I'm happy with where I put mine. Saw on your build thread you had your first start. Congrats.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  2. #482
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    Power Steering, Heat, A/C

    Still plowing ahead. Since last update, jumping around again with power steering, heat, A/C, radiator connections, etc. Lots of dependencies (mainly for space) so need to keep everything in mind. Received the SS flex and fittings from Breeze to hook up the power steering. Had that basically done the day the package arrived. The Aeroquip hose and fittings he provides are top notch and assembly easily. I also used the Breeze -6AN rack fittings with the rubber O-rings. First time I’ve used those. Worked well and did my best not to over-tighten the O-ring seal. Decided to install a PS cooler and used the same Derale 13310 piece like I’ve done before. Maybe not needed for a street driver. But easy to do now and certainly doesn’t hurt anything. Already has the -6AN fittings. So, two more connectors and it’s done. After looking at multiple locations, centered the cooler on the back wall of the radiator tunnel where it will get bolted when that piece is installed. Worked well and gave nice easy routings for the lines. Used a couple Earl's Performance 167207ERL clamps.



    With the lines installed, filled with Honda PS fluid that I’ve used before and like, took the belt off the pump, and spun it up with a drill motor like the KRC instructions describe. Quickly burped and the pump was working. Had my number one shop assistant (wife) turn the wheel back and forth as I was running the pump, and all is working properly. No leaks so far.

    Next up it was finally time to dive into the heater and A/C hoses. But first quickly realized that before mounting the evaporator in the passenger side footbox for the last time, best to first install the carpet in the footbox. It’s tight in there and would be difficult if not impossible to install the carpet with the evaporator in place. With that decision, decided to go ahead and do both passenger and driver side footboxes. Rest of the carpet is a breeze after getting those pieces in. Used the DAP outdoor carpet adhesive I’ve used before. Works extremely well. But the smell is powerful. Needs to be used in a ventilated area with the gas heater turned off. Which I did. Then it takes a while to air out once installed. But I like it because it grabs but still allows repositioning. And the final product isn’t ever going to come off. Did all the carpet pieces in both footboxes except the floor pieces, which will be an easy add when doing the rest. The inner walls on both sides are interesting since the shapes are quite irregular. But the pieces fit with very minor trimming. Based on their complexity, don’t think I’d try those two pieces with regular contact cement or spray. Would be really easy to get them off a little and then not fit very well. For the driver’s side, I added a heel pad on the side of the footbox next to the accelerator pedal. I’ve done that on previous builds, and not only does it prevent wear to the carpet, makes the accelerator easier to operate without your shoe dragging on the carpet. The pad is a “small” size from http://www.heelpadwarehouse.com/ (talk about a niche market) glued and stitched to the carpet after giving the carpet a bit of a haircut in that area. This pic shows the final driver side footbox less the carpet on the floor. Thinking about also putting some carpet around the frame members along the bottom. But we’ll see what it looks like when finished.



    With that done, hung the evaporator for hopefully the last time. First up were the heater hose connections from the evaporator to the bulkhead fittings. Easy enough. Next up were the A/C hoses from the evaporator to the bulkhead fittings. Here it gets a little tougher. Couple of other build threads noted this as well. One eliminating the bulkhead fitting completely. The final hoses are short, stiff, a little hard to get into place, and length is very critical. What I learned from other build threads is the hoses “grow” slightly in length when crimped, making them hard if not impossible to install if not considered. The A/C kit came with a bunch of extra fittings and plenty of hose. So, I practiced making one with spare parts, measuring before and after. What I found was the hoses grow a little less than 1/8-inch. Closer to .1000 inch. Taking that into account, made up the two hoses. Happy to say both are in and installed. As expected, they’re stiff to put in, and easy to cut an O-ring if you’re not careful. With that fixed, have them in and tightened. Hopefully don’t leak and I won’t have to touch them again. I’ll find that out later when the system is charged. Just a side note FWIW: The three brackets and small screws provided to mount the evaporator in the footbox seem a little wimpy at first. But with the four hoses attached on the back, it's a lot more stable. I'm confident it's not going anywhere. The kit comes with insulation that goes over the hoses and valve block in this area. I’m assuming to prevent condensation and dripping into the footbox. But I’ll wait until the system is charged and tested to install. Just in case... Looks like this now:



    Made up all the other hoses, and now have them all done except for the ends that attach at the condenser in front of the radiator. I’ll get the final length and crimp those on when the radiator is mounted. I did have to move the drier/trinary switch slightly from where the Factory Five instructions showed because of where I mounted the Coyote PCM. But works out fine here:



    Speaking of making the A/C hoses, mentioned before that I picked up the Mastercool 71550 A/C hose crimper referenced in the Factory Five instructions. It’s very simple to use and a nice quality tool. Highly recommended.





    One last comment about the A/C installation at this point. The Factory Five instructions show cutting off the leads to the connector on the A/C pump and hard wiring the harness to them. Not real excited about doing that for a couple reasons. Checked with my friends at Ford and learned a Motorcraft WPT-984 connector mates to the CR33-19497-BA / DKS-17DS compressor that comes with the Coupe heat-A/C kit. Used on 05-14 Mustang 5.0 V8 BTW. Ended up getting the connector on Amazon, but they're widely available. In this case, listed by the seller as a subwoofer speaker connector, so obviously used elsewhere. But as long as it says Motorcraft WPT-984, fits perfectly.



    Haven’t started the heat-A/C wiring yet. Will do that when I move into the cockpit and start wiring there. I’ve started but haven’t completed the radiator and hose installations. I’ll save that for the next update. Getting close to having everything in the engine compartment hooked up.
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-18-2018 at 02:51 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  3. #483
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    Did you use the same DAP Outdoor Carpet Adhesive for the footpad or the 3 M that they offer on their website?
    Gen 3 Coupe, Gen 2 Coyote, Wilwoods, IRS, Power Steering, AC

  4. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdavis500 View Post
    Did you use the same DAP Outdoor Carpet Adhesive for the footpad or the 3 M that they offer on their website?
    I used the DAP adhesive. A little more explanation would probably be a good idea since this could be a safety issue if done poorly. With the footprint of the pad outlined with tape, I shaved probably half or more of the height of the carpet pile with some hair clippers. I didn't want to add any height plus wanted the pad pushed down near or onto the carpet backing. Then, spread the adhesive on the pad, and pushed it down onto the location. Then placed a scrap piece of wood (actually MDF) that was the exact size of the pad on top and weighted it down overnight. With that it was rock solid. But did hand stitch around the perimeter with carpet thread just to make sure the edges didn't lift. FWIW, I've used this exact process on all my builds. The oldest one going on 8 years and a lot of miles is still firmly in place. The spray adhesive sold on their website would probably be OK for horizontal surfaces. But I wouldn't use it next to the accelerator pedal like I did.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

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  6. #485
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    Radiator and Plumbing

    Quiet Christmas Day here. Family members all live out of town and we’ve visited recently. So just the two of us here. Good time for an update I guess. Better than checking my 401K balance. It’s been a pretty good week of getting a bunch of stuff out of the basement and permanently installed. Radiator tunnel sheet metal is attached. Radiator and expansion tank installed with all hoses hooked up except the heater hoses to the control valve. Will do that after the wiring is done. A/C hoses all done and hooked up. PCV hoses done. Control pack wiring mostly done including O2 sensor wires. Still a few more details to wrap up although I’ll probably never stop messing with the wiring and hoses trying to make it all as orderly as possible. My planned mod (at least right now) for the engine cover is it will have extensions that cover about half the heads. So, a lot will be covered from what’s visible now. Anyway, looks like this right now:



    Now a few more details. This is the radiator tunnel. Kit supplied cooling fan with Breeze shroud. The Boig cool tubes fit perfectly and make that almost impossible lower radiator hose connection work OK. You can see here I’m using Gates SB PowerGrip heat shrink hose clamps. Have them most everywhere including the heater hoses. First time I’ve used them and I’m pleased with how they install. All the reviews say they grip and hold as well or better than typical metal hose clamps. Plus trying to make things as sanitary as possible. Of course the downside is they’re one-time use and have to be cut off. Hopefully that won’t be necessary very often. One hint: Huge variation in price for these things. Found them for about one third the Amazon price, which is a surprise. Google is your friend. I also used Oetiker ear clamps for most of the smaller hoses, a couple visible in the engine compartment. Again, they’re sanitary and work well. Also one-time use though obviously. Another detail visible in this picture is I moved the radiator as far to the left as it would go. Helped to get the lower radiator hose to hook up, plus gave room on the right side for the lower A/C connection to the condenser. Also visible is the small upper radiator hose connection back to the expansion tank. The petcock is removed and replaced with a Gardner-Westcott J9033 right angle fitting, then through the Ford supplied hose with a one-way valve. I did have to extend the hose to reach this far. Did cut a hole in the sheet metal and pointed it down. Would have been easier to go around the end. But I checked and that would have interfered with the cowl.



    Closer picture of the upper radiator hose connection and upper and lower A/C connections.



    The Moroso expansion tank installed and plumbed. The upper radiator hose that came with the control pack worked perfectly to go around the tank and then attach to the upper Boig cool tube. No trimming. Like it was made for it. Also visible here is the JLT oil separator installed in the PCV circuit, same as I did on #8674. The is a pretty common add with the Mustang performance crowd. My experience with #8674 is that it doesn’t collect a lot of oil, which is good, but still chose to use it.



    Last picture, I mentioned before I picked up a honeycomb MAF airflow straightener from Treadstone Performance Engineering when I ordered the other CAI components from them. They highly recommended it to improve the stability of the signal from the sensor. Did some further research and found many other comments that were similar. Figured it can’t hurt anything. Was going to wait, but decided just to drop it in. With a little careful sanding on the disk sander, it slid right into the neck of the pipe. I put a light coat of JB Weld around the opening before sliding it in, and it’s not going anywhere. BTW, the Treadstone Performance Engineering 90 degree silicone hose coupler, MAF adapter pipe, and air cleaner are very nice parts. I’m impressed. These were recently added to the Factory Five instructions as another option for the Coyote CAI. Especially like that the adapter pipe is beaded on both ends. When clamped (I used T-clamps) it should never separate like the event I had with #8674. The Spectre parts, which Factory Five also lists, used in #8674 didn’t fit well in the Coupe. These fit perfectly. Also can see the connection I added for the left side PCV hose. JLT has those.



    I’ve also been doing a lot of research plus taking things apart a little figuring out the vacuum hookup on the Gen 3 intake, along with the CMCV plumbing. This is an often discussed (and confusing) subject on the Gen 2 Coyote. Pretty sure I have it sorted out. I’m waiting for one part to arrive. Then will explain how I see it’s working with the Gen 3 and how I hooked it up. Good news, it’s simpler than before. Will post hopefully in the next couple days.
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-26-2018 at 06:54 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  7. #486
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    Looking Awesome Paul. The Gates clamps are everywhere on my car and not had a leak yet. The cover looks better trimmed as you have done. Talked with my cobra buddy and he said he was in for a coupe build too. I am sure you are getting a lot of guys thinking of this coupe for their next project. Merry Christmas and thanks for all the updates. Jim
    20th Anniversary MK4 Roadster, #8752, 18 of 20, Delivered 12/03/15, 1st Start 01/28/2017, off to paint 4/13/2017, Forte 351w/ Holley EFI, Forte throttle linkage, TKO 600/Forte Hyd. Clutch, UniSteer Electra Steering, RT's turn Signals, many Breeze parts, Paint by the Cobra Colorist. Finished on 10/08/2017. 500 mile inspection on 10/21/2017, 3000 mile inspection on 1/14/19.

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  9. #487
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    Merry Christmas

    Quote Originally Posted by RR20AC View Post
    Looking Awesome Paul. . . . . I am sure you are getting a lot of guys thinking of this coupe for their next project. Merry Christmas and thanks for all the updates. Jim
    Ditto, looks great.

  10. #488
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    Gen 3 Coyote CMCV Plumbing

    Ford added Charge Motion Control Valves (CMCV) to the Gen 2 Coyote when it was released in 2015. Also sometimes referred to as Intake Manifold Runner Controls (IMRC), which were used on some versions of the previous mod motors. But apparently this time around they are serving a different purpose, so technically not the same thing. According to Ford literature “…charge motion control valves… partially close off port flow at lower engine speeds. This increases the air charge tumble and swirl for improved air-fuel mixing, resulting in better fuel economy, idle stability, and lower emissions.”

    It was common in former times to lock these out. Also common today with the Coyote by the performance crowd. But if you do, you’ll need a custom tune otherwise the PCM will throw trouble codes. I’m fine with leaving them, as I did on the Gen 2 Coyote in #8674. But out of the crate the vacuum required is not plumbed. There have been several threads and lots of posts about this, including from me. It was relatively simple to do, but still caused lots of discussion. Ford didn’t help by changing the plumbing slightly in later versions of the Gen 2. There’s also been some discussion about whether the CMCV function is even active in the special crate motor PCM tune. What I can say is (1) if you don’t plumb them you will get trouble codes (personal experience) and (2) when I reviewed the log files while working with Lund Racing on the custom tune in #8674, I could clearly see they were being commanded. I can’t confirm whether this was from the original tune or from Lund’s custom tune. But regardless they were in use. For whatever reason, which I don’t understand to this day, neither Factory Five or Ford Performance address the CMCV function in their instructions.

    So with this as background, now the Gen 3 Coyote in my Coupe build. The Gen 3 Coyote has a brand new intake manifold. Side note: It apparently is a nice performance upgrade. Many are fitting the 2018 Gen 3 intake onto previous generation Coyotes with good results. The Gen 3 does still have the CMCV function. But the plumbing is changed. Perhaps because of the Direct Injection (DI) on the Gen 3 Coyote which takes up real estate under the intake that used to be open, there are no longer any vacuum or vent hoses from the back of the intake. Everything is on the front. Additionally, the Gen 3 vents the vacuum motors to atmosphere, like later versions of the Gen 2. There’s no vent tube to the intake like on early Gen 2’s, including mine in #8674.

    So let’s get down to it. Here’s the intake area on my Gen 3 Coyote, with the various connections annotated and explained. I’ll cover more than the CMCV and vacuum required, just for information and clarity:



    A = Heater hose connections
    B = Upper radiator hose connection
    C = Lower radiator hose connection
    D and E = Connections to coolant expansion tank. Note: Capped if using Factory Five instructed T-filler and overflow tank.
    F = Vacuum connection for CMCV function. This replaces the similar connection that was on the back of the Gen 2 Coyote.
    G = Right side PCV connection.
    H = Main vacuum port. This connects to a manifold setup in the Mustang (not included with the crate motor) which supplies vacuum to the CMCV plus the power brakes.
    I = Vacuum port for evaporative emissions canister purge valve. The 2018 intake no longer has the purge valve as part of the assembly like before. It’s separate and not included with the crate motor. The only thing left is the vacuum connection. More on this later.

    At the back of the intake, two things. At the top of the picture is where the system vents. To atmosphere like later generation Gen 2’s. At the bottom of the picture is the vacuum source. It's connected to item F in the previous picture. Based on the way it acted when I was testing, I suspect there’s an internal reservoir like the Gen 2’s. But I don’t have a source that confirms. Regardless, it’s a direct connection.



    So, armed with that information, the vacuum connection to activate the CMCV function on the Gen 3 Coyote appears to be as simple as making a single connection between one of the two vacuum sources at the front of the intake and the vacuum connection for the CMCV. I chose to use the smaller vacuum connection, which is used for the purge valve in a stock setup as already mentioned. But since there’s no purge valve here, and I had a connector that already fit, I used that one and capped the larger vacuum source. Note I removed the throttle body and confirmed both vacuum sources are open into the intake. So for this purpose I believe they are interchangeable.

    The other consideration is the vacuum signal for the fuel regulator. Both the Ford Performance and Factory Five instructions show using a fuel pressure regulator with a vacuum signal reference. Some builds use the GM style regulator back by the fuel tank, which is fixed and doesn’t have provision for a vacuum reference signal. Apparently it works fine. But, on a side note, the Ford Performance instructions for the Gen 3 Coyote say to set the fuel regulator at 65 PSI. Clearly more than the 55 PSI for the previous versions, and more than the fixed 58 PSI of the GM style regulator. Additionally, some custom tuners will tell you to remove the vacuum reference line, plug it, and let the regulator vent to atmosphere. Lund Racing told me that for #8674 and I’ve heard the same from at least one other tuner. Not sure about any of that. For my build with the Gen 3 I’m using a typical Aeromotive regulator, will set it for 65 PSI as instructed, and will plumb the vacuum line. If the vacuum reference signal isn't required in the future, easy to remove. So this means a “T” or “Y” connection in the vacuum line.

    So I came up with this combination of parts to connect everything, mostly with parts I already had on hand. It’s not elegant, but it should do the job.



    Installed, looks like this. As you can see, I capped the larger vacuum connection as mentioned before. Also all the other connections (heater hoses, PCV, radiator, etc.) are now completed.



    That’s it! As they say on one of the car shows, “Job done.” Hopefully... Yesterday I filled the system with 50/50 Prestone. Put in just under 4 gallons. I’ll check it and top off if needed once it’s run. Running out of things to do with the Coyote installation. Digging deep into wiring in the cockpit now. First start is getting closer.
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-29-2018 at 07:00 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  11. #489
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    You can see here I’m using Gates SB PowerGrip heat shrink hose clamps. Have them most everywhere including the heater hoses. First time I’ve used them and I’m pleased with how they install. All the reviews say they grip and hold as well or better than typical metal hose clamps.
    I'll vouch for the PowerGrip clamps. I was introduced to them about 8 years ago by a friend doing an LS swap in a '65 Skylark, and I've got them on my '65 El Camino. They're expensive little buggers, with no margin for error - but they work sweet and look good.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

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  13. #490
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    Cockpit Wiring Update

    Around Christmas and New Year activities, a few bowl games, etc. have been plugging away on cockpit wiring. It’s slow going because I’m working hard to keep everything as compact as possible, and away from required routings for A/C and heat ducts. Plus I tend to test things as I go. I wasn’t sure I would have to, but ended up removing the two rear harness connectors and hard wiring those. Took some unneeded length out plus the bulk of the connectors. Also removed the connector for the sender branch. Will direct wire those as well. It all adds up. Adjusted the headlight switch branch so it lands where it’s supposed to on the dash without a lot of extra. I’m temporarily using the kit supplied manual ignition switch. Decided to wire the Digital Guard Dog keyless ignition setup later after first start. I’m confident it will be OK. But just taking that out of the equation for now. All the wiring connections are crimped, very light touch of solder, and adhesive lined heat shrink sleeving. Same as I’ve done on previous builds. Not saying that's the only way to do it. Just my preference.

    Wired up and successfully tested so far: All the exterior lights including backup lights, high and low beam headlights, brake lights, etc. Don’t have the switches in for the hazards or turn signals yet. But with jumpers I can make them work. The T56 reverse lockout module is working. At rest it’s got the reverse solenoid on like it’s supposed to. So slides right into reverse. I’ll be checking to make sure it switches off in motion based on the signal from the speed sensor. But can’t do that yet. Fuel pump and radiator cooling fan work. I’m saving wiring for accessories such as the A/C and heat, heated seats, wipers, washers, fog lights, and aux ports until after first start and when I start wiring the switch panel. But I've probed all the leads and they all have +12V when they're supposed to. No smoke yet, and hope to keep it that way.

    I’ve also tested the Gen 3 Coyote a bit. Key on wakes it up. Throttle body is responding to the accelerator pedal. The ODB2 port is active. Turning the key to start without the clutch pedal does nothing like it’s supposed to. With the clutch pedal down the starter engages. So all perfect there. I didn’t hook the fuel pump wire to the RF fuse panel yet because I don’t want to be running the pump in a dry tank. But testing it with a VOM. It acts differently than my Gen 2. I think it’s OK but checking with Ford. Won’t explain any further until I get an answer. Don’t want to give out bad information. Also found that removing the stock oil pressure sensor is not a popular move with the PCM. Keeps throwing codes related to that. Plugged the sensor back in and the codes stopped. I was told the sensor isn’t active in the crate motor program, so made sense to simplify and just replace it with the Speedhut sensor. But apparently the PCM is still checking for it. I’ve got that open question with Ford as well.

    So, for pictures, I posted this one a few weeks ago. Safe to say this was before doing much with the cockpit wiring.



    This is from a few minutes ago.



    More work and some clean-up to do yet, but hopefully it looks a little different. On the RH side, can see where the master disconnect is located and where the main power from the master disconnect comes into the cockpit area. The bus bar (cover not installed yet) has the RF power and alternator leads, plus powers three of the four circuit breakers at the center. The breakers are for the fog lights, headlight module, and two aux ports. The USB aux port will be powered by one of the accessory leads from the Digital Guard Dog. The other aux port I’m going to leave straight to battery. Will need to be careful, but did that intentionally so I can plug my battery tester and trickle charger there versus the somewhat inconvenient battery location. The ODB2 port is just visible on the angled frame piece below the steering column. I’m in the process of installing the inertia switch on the DS tunnel inside the angled frame piece. Room there plus reachable from the driver’s seat. The two open connectors above the steering column are for the dash/gauge cluster. Once the position is finalized above the ducts for the defroster and LH outlet, I'll mount the harness on the gauge cluster with the mating connectors oriented accordingly. My plan has always been to have the dash/gauge cluster removable, providing access to all the behind the dash wiring. So far, on track.

    Just a couple more details here, then need to punch through the firewall for the engine sending units, tach, and alternator. Then this will be as far as I’m going to take the cockpit right now. Then will wire the gauge cluster and should be ready for first start.
    Last edited by edwardb; 01-04-2019 at 07:29 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  14. #491
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    More Electrical

    Making progress. RF wiring from cockpit to engine compartment done. Gauge cluster wiring done. More progress with the balance of the cockpit wiring. Details with each pic.

    One of the charms starting with the Gen 2 Coyote is no tach wire in the control pack. Gen 3 is no different. I mentioned earlier, but I did ask Ford about this. They said starting with the generation PCM in the Gen 2, there were no useable tach signals from the system for aftermarket tachs. Said that most installations will require a tach adapter. Fortunately, for those of us using the Speedhut gauges, it only takes a signal wire and no adapter. One of their programmable settings it based on having a single signal from one of the Coil on Plug (COP) modules. But it does require breaking into the harness to tap the wire. On the Gen 2 in #8674 I broke into cylinder #7. That seemed to fall in line with the harness from the cockpit. On the Gen 3 though, Ford has changed the layout and cylinder #5 worked out better. Doesn’t matter. All the COP modules have 2 wires. One is common to all, the other is the signal wire for that cylinder. The signal wire is the one you want. I showed more detail in the #8674 build thread. Basically, get the tape insulation off the two wires, then with a sharp knife or X-Acto, carefully remove about 1/4-inch or so of insulation from an appropriate location on the signal wire without nicking or cutting the wire. Then attach a length of wire. I did my usual crimp and touch of solder. Then wrap with a piece of electrical tape and restore the original harness tape. You can see my finished product here. I had to put a small amount of electrical tape on the outside at the top where the original harness tape was damaged when I pulled it back. The rest unwound and went back fine. I put a female spade connector on the end, and covered the wire and connector with shrink sleeve. Now ready to receive the tach wire from the cockpit. The Speedhut tach needs to be programmed to the .5 pulse per rev setting. Very important to get the proper reading on the tach.



    With that, I was able to punch through the firewall and hook up the balance of the connections from the cockpit. Tach (described above), water temp, oil pressure, and the battery charging wire from the alternator. Engine connections are now completed. Wrapped up some more details in the cockpit wiring. Remaining are turn signal/hazards, wiper washer, and my center switch panel which includes the heat/AC connections. But nothing that prevents first start.



    Then onto the gauge cluster. As of this afternoon, it’s done and everything lights and works the way it’s supposed to. Voltage gauge is working. Should see the gas gauge when I finally put some gas in the tank. The rest will be tested with the engine actually running to see tach, water temp and oil pressure. Speedo acquires GPS and I’m sure it will work fine whenever this thing moves under its own power.

    To start, as mentioned before, wanted the harness to be oriented in the proper location to meet up with the connectors behind the dash plus stay out of the way of the heat/AC ducting. Decided I wanted something to hang the harness and connector leads on so it stays in the right place plus not tugging on all the wiring connections. After thinking about it a bit, quickly fabbed up a bracket that goes under one of the gauge retainer rings and allows me to secure the harness leads.



    Installed on the tach gauge, finalized the location, and took the “before” picture.



    Some hours later, everything all hooked up and tested. Still haven’t figured out the best way to manage the two daisy chains Speedhut uses for the gauges. No way to make them very pretty, and don’t want to get carried away and make service difficult should the need arise. So basically, just stack them up and secure with tie wraps. Couple clips and everything will be loose again. With a little creativity I was able to get every connection required for the gauge cluster through the two existing connectors except the GPS antenna.



    This Saturday we’re having another open house with our local club like the one we did last year. Lots of folks interested in the Coupe build and hopefully they’ll agree there’s some progress. Fun to share and I enjoy their company. Just a few more loose ends and should be ready for first start. Stay tuned.
    Last edited by edwardb; 01-10-2019 at 08:58 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  15. #492
    Papa's Avatar
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    Nice clean wiring, as always.

    Dave
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

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  17. #493
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    Can’t say anything more than others already have expressed......amazing progress, awesome attention to detail.

    Great job Paul...... been away too long, have a lot of good posts to read!!!
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

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  19. #494
    wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Looks great Paul! Eagerly awaiting first start
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
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  21. #495
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    Gen 3 Coyote First Start!!!

    Today finished the last details before first start, so went for it. No particular surprises really. Put fuel in the tank for the first time. Nearly all of a 5 gallon can and shows a little under 1/4 full on the gauge. Good. Took a bit to get the Aeromotive regulator set. Needs to be 65 PSI, according to the Ford instructions, for the Gen 3 Coyote. The short bursts of the fuel pump when turning the key to run was taking a long time and didn't seem to tell me much. So just hot wired the fuel pump so it would run continuously with the key off (clip lead into the RF fuse panel) and that worked. The regulator was way off and I would probably never have gotten it set without doing it that way. Checked all the fuel lines and connections and no signs of any leaks. With that, no more excuses. So set the camera on a tripod, had a fire extinguisher nearby and cranked away. It didn't jump to life like my previous Coyote. But still started and all good. Had immediate oil pressure and tach reading. Plus voltage jumped up a bit so the alternator was working. Some smoke off the new headers, but that cleared. After the first 1 minute or so run, stopped and looked everything over. No sign of any leaks or any issues. Ran it a few more times. Subsequent starts were nearly instant like I'm used to. Water temp gauge and cooling fan work. Since the rear wheels were off the ground, ran the transmission through a couple gears. All good, and the reverse lockout module is working properly. These aren't the greatest videos, but you get the idea. The last video, with the engine at temp, hit it harder a couple times. It sounds angry. I have temporary Roadster side pipes on it right now. BTW, the first video is the real deal. Actually is the very first attempt to start. No camera tricks.

    https://youtu.be/4ytnm8CV5ZQ

    https://youtu.be/aESV65nw4ok

    https://youtu.be/6ZqzZrdcMSY

    https://youtu.be/LY6-IUp3na8
    Last edited by edwardb; 01-13-2019 at 05:13 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

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  23. #496
    Papa's Avatar
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    Congratulations, Paul. Sounds perfect!
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  24. #497

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    Congratulations! It does sound angry It must feel very nice to have a successful first start behind you now, given that you were blazing the gen3 Coyote trail on this one.

  25. #498

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    Congratulations, Paul. Motor sounds great!

    Garry
    I sure miss my coupe!

    F5R1004503SP 2004 Challenge Car, 331 Stroker

    Coupe # 031, 422" Windsor stroker by Southern Automotive (Dash autographed by Peter Brock)***SOLD***
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  26. #499
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
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    Niiiice... great job
    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

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  27. #500
    Paul2STL's Avatar
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    Congratulations!!! Nice job Paul, your work is top notch as always.
    MKIV #9122 Ordered kit 5/24/17 received kit 8/11/17 MK4 Base kit +,First Start 4/7/18, First Go-Cart 4/22/18, In gelcoat, licensed and driving 8/11/18. Coyote gen2, T-56, 2015 IRS 3.31, 17" Halibrand replicas w/Nitto NT555 G2, Withby Motorcars power brake kit W/Wilwood pedals, 04 Cobra front brakes, 15 Mustang rear brakes with mods, power steering. Paint Jeff Miller Da Bat, Lexus Spectra Blue Mica W/Toyota Silver Sky Metallic strips. Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...Paul2STL-Build

  28. #501
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Congratulations. Making it look easy.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  29. #502
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    Wow!!! Sounds awesome. Also want to thank you for the excellent build thread and for answering my questions. That Gen 3 sounds incredible.

  30. #503
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Sounds nasty! Congratulations!

    Chris
    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

  31. #504
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Congrats Paul.... top notch all the way... but that is what we all expect.... Your work is awesome as always!!!

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 )
    Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    First Start 11-1-18
    ---- First GoCart 11-7-18
    BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
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    Build Thread Click Here Gel Coat Driver 1/12/19

  32. #505
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    Fantastic Paul!! Congratulations on this milestone, and thank you again for taking us all along with you on the journey!
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 12/15/2018

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  33. #506
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Congratulations! What an achievement! Amazing DIY engineering. What an understatement but none the less. Excellent work!
    Gen 3 65 Coupe - Order Date 8/2018 - Delivery: Jan 2019 - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

  34. #507


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Big congratulations to you Paul!

    Jeff

  35. #508
    Senior Member HiggyMK4#????'s Avatar
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    Well done sir!!
    Higgy
    'Collecting knowledge and parts for a future build'

  36. #509
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    Super!....and what everyone else has said. I hope you slept well last night...you absolutely should have.
    fred

  37. #510
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    Sounds great but when are you going to share the details on the real side pipes?
    David W
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
    Gen 3 coupe #16 under construction

  38. #511
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Williamson View Post
    Sounds great but when are you going to share the details on the real side pipes?
    David W
    I will. Promise. When the time comes.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  39. #512
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    Very Nice. Congrats Paul!
    20th Anniversary MK4 Roadster, #8752, 18 of 20, Delivered 12/03/15, 1st Start 01/28/2017, off to paint 4/13/2017, Forte 351w/ Holley EFI, Forte throttle linkage, TKO 600/Forte Hyd. Clutch, UniSteer Electra Steering, RT's turn Signals, many Breeze parts, Paint by the Cobra Colorist. Finished on 10/08/2017. 500 mile inspection on 10/21/2017, 3000 mile inspection on 1/14/19.

  40. #513
    Senior Member q4stix's Avatar
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    Great to see this happen! Sounds great as everyone has already said and it all looks like a super clean install as always. Congrats!
    Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe builder

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