Edwardb’s Gen 3 Type 65 Coyote Coupe #59 Build: 5,000 Mile Report

[wareaglescott]

Looking great Paul. Cant wait to see some color on it. Really great idea on the roof treatment.

[GoDadGo]

Paul & Jeff,

Thanks for the most recent discussion about the body fit, parting lines and symmetry issues.
Also, I'm glad you fellows are happy with the UPOL Raptor Product.
I've really grown to love this stuff!
Can't wait to see it in paint.

Steve

[edwardb]

Today I loaded the Coupe into the SE and delivered to the shop for paint. Next in line into the booth behind the blue car that's getting final details. They promised pictures. But also said I can visit any time I want and it's only about an hour away. So will be doing that and have progress pics. Promised for about 8 weeks. This was also the last ride in the 14-foot SE. My new 16-footer should be done by the time the paint is done. Also supposed to have my fully polished side pipes sometime in October. Finish line is still a ways away. But definitely getting closer.

[GashF16]

Exciting! I'm looking forward to seeing the progress photos. In the meantime, what is the make and model of the 16-foot trailer you're getting? I'm looking for a good trailer.

[edwardb]

...what is the make and model of the 16-foot trailer you're getting? I'm looking for a good trailer.

Sorry, used acronyms without thinking about it. SE (mentioned a couple times in my post) = Serpent Express. That's a brand and configuration trailer that a bunch of us use. More info here: http://www.serpentexpress.com/. The trailer in the picture above is their aluminum deck 14-foot model that I've had for a number of years for my Roadster. It's been all over the country. Unfortunately, it's too short for the Coupe. Goes in, as pictured, but is tight against the front and the rear cover stretches over the back. OK for unpainted, but totally unacceptable once painted. Plus the door location is marginal and with the nose all the way to the front it's really a pain to hook up the tie-downs. A local club member bought the 14-foot trailer for his Backdraft and I ordered a new Serpent Express exactly like it except the 16-foot model. He's letting me use the trailer until my new one is ready. That extra two feet will be handy for both the Roadster and the Coupe.

[Hoschton Hotrod Haus]

There are not a lot of good options for mounting computer, this is what I did, it is similar to where it is on the Mustang, etc on the Mustang it is cover with more wire and a fuse block.

Paul,
Can you send me a picture of where you mounted the Power Distribution Box

Yhanks

[edwardb]

Paul,
Can you send me a picture of where you mounted the Power Distribution Box

Thanks

The Coupe is at the painter, so not here to take a current pic. Here are a couple during construction. First shows where I put the PDB and routed some of the harness legs. The second shows further in the build with the engine in, but still lots of loose ends.

Two other comments. First, I assume you know the picture you included in your question isn't my build. That's a Gen 2 Coyote and based on other decisions I made regarding layout, my PCM wouldn't have fit there. Second, responding to a post in your other thread that the PDB would fit behind the dash and the PCM behind the engine. I would add "it depends." The Coyote installation has to take into account all of your build decisions. In my case, I added other electronics behind the dash (headlight controller, keyless ignition, T-56 controller, all described in this thread), a glovebox, a custom switch panel, and four dash HVAC outlets instead of two. Zero room for the PDB, and wherever you put it must be accessible since it has service parts inside. If you put the PCM anywhere beside around the front right corner of the engine, you'll need to reorient the engine harness. Many do it, so it's possible. Just something I've chosen not to do. Bottom line for me, mock up everything before finalizing anything.

[edwardb]

Today I visited the shop where the Coupe is getting painted. First time back since delivering it there. Happy to report body work is moving right along. They are hoping to spray sealer by the end of the week. These pictures don’t show too much, other than evidence of lots of filling, sanding, and dust. Had a chance to meet and talk a bit with the guy doing the work. I was pleased and impressed with his attention to detail and wanting to get it just right. He was happy in general with how everything lined up, gaps, etc. He said it was quite a bit of work getting the mold mismatch behind the quarter windows fixed. But looked really good from what I could tell. They haven't done a Coupe before. Only Roadsters. So one of the conditions I asked for (and also because I’m local) was that I personally do any assembly and disassembly. Saves them time trying to figure stuff out plus I want to preserve the alignment on everything and (I hope) know best how to do that. With my retirement schedule, I can get there most any time with short notice. Today’s trip was to remove the doors, door frames, and hood latches. Now that basic body work and panel matching is completed. The body will stay on throughout the process, as I’ve already described. They haven’t decided yet about the hood (cowl) but easy to remove if they want me to. On a side note, he said the Coupe has been a bit of a distraction in the shop. It’s a pretty big place with quite a few people working there. He said it gets a lot of traffic and everyone is really interested in the final result. So am I! Pictures from today:







While the Coupe is out of the home shop, have been finishing up some other open items as much as I could. One of the subjects talked about a lot is the wheel spinner adapters and various ways to keep the threads from locking and/or the adapter spinning in the wheel. Making it difficult or impossible to remove. I’ve drilled and tapped for set screws through the wheels and through the adapters on previous builds. It’s 100% effective and was planning to do the same on this build. Lots of other choices (o-rings, pool noodles, silicone adhesive, etc.) but still prefer something more mechanical. Then I saw another set screw option in a build thread and stole that idea. Instead of a set screw through the wheel and adapter, which isn’t hard but a little tedious, the idea is three set screws on the inside of the adapter only. These lock against the ID of the wheel. Was pretty easy to do and I think will be effective. I used 10-32 SS cap screws. Could have used regular set screws. But these have a bigger Allen head and a bit easier to work with.



I confirmed that when the drill and tap is positioned exactly in the center of the flat between the adapter threads and angle, the set screws hit a matching flat on the ID of the wheels. Perfect.



To install, before tightening the screws, I’ll put the adapter in the wheel with the lug nut cover and spinner tightened. That will hold the adapter properly angled and centered. Then tighten the three set screws along with some blue Loctite. Need to not overtighten as the threads are in aluminum. But with the testing I’ve done, as long as all three are reasonably tight, the adapter is locked into place. Also on this build I’m trying the CRC Dry Graphite Lube recommended by Jeff Kleiner for the spinner threads. I’ve used a light coating of anti-seize in the past. Seems to work OK. But does get a bit gummy and stiff. This material is a little different than I expected. Almost goes on like spray paint, e.g. black and dries in place. So you’ll want to mask off like paint. I have all four ready to install. Will be interested to see how it works. I’m guessing all good.

[edwardb]

I also had some remaining work on my door cards. The shop that did interior work for me mainly just did the stitching and placed the padding (where used) and vinyl panels. I did most of the wrap and final details. So finished the wrap on the door cards, plus did the cutout and wrap for the door handles and openings for the bins I fabricated and showed previously. Happy with how they turned out. Matches the theme of the rest of the interior.



Also put padding and vinyl in the inside of the bins, and carpet on the bottom. The bar, which I’ve shown before, is attached to the door along with the bin. It sits right below the bottom edge of the opening in the door card, and is strong enough and in the right location to use to open and close the door.



Finally, totally off topic (and you can tell I’m running out of tasks for the Coupe) some time ago I scored a very cool Ford Racing neon sign. Wasn’t sure where I was going to put it. In the basement somewhere or in the garage shop. My wife already ruled out putting it somewhere in the house itself. Imagine that. Went with the garage shop. Maybe I need to hit Ford up for some advertising revenue. Wish me luck. Regardless, I like it.



That’s it. I’ll keep the paint progress updates coming.

[GoDadGo]

Dang Paul,

I wish I had 1/2 of your talent.

Steve

[edwardb]

First coats going down. This is when it starts getting good.

[David Williamson]

They are moving along quickly, you should get it home soon.
Going red again??
David W

[edwardb]

They are moving along quickly, you should get it home soon.
Going red again??
David W

Agreed. They are making good progress. The promised finish date is early December or sooner. Seems the "or sooner" could happen, but we'll see. And yes to your question.

[Paul Mischenko]

Hey Paul, Tried to stay way from looking at your Coupe build log so I don't get any ideas to start another one! After following your 20th Ann build so closely I had no doubt that this was going to be an amazing build as well. Which it certainly is. Congratulations, your talent is really amazing, along with your ability to update the community which I know was a great help to me with my roadster build. Can't wait to see it with color. Cheers

[shark92651]

I also had some remaining work on my door cards. The shop that did interior work for me mainly just did the stitching and placed the padding (where used) and vinyl panels. I did most of the wrap and final details. So finished the wrap on the door cards, plus did the cutout and wrap for the door handles and openings for the bins I fabricated and showed previously. Happy with how they turned out. Matches the theme of the rest of the interior.

Your door panels look amazing! Excellent work

[edwardb]

Progress continues. Like how it looks. Another coat of primer and wet sand after this. Then should see some color.

[edwardb]

Received these pics today. I'll be visiting end of the week, and they're saying should have color going down by then. Looking really clean and straight.

[Papa]

Looks like it's coming along nicely … and quickly! Can't wait for color.

[KDubU]

Red? I did see one gen II in dark red with dark grey stripes and it was very nice.

[edwardb]

Red? I did see one gen II in dark red with dark grey stripes and it was very nice.

Yes... and no.

[Garage Guy]

I am banking on Red with white stripes?

[edwardb]

I am banking on Red with white stripes?

Half right. Candy red and I'm not doing stripes. No big secret or drama. Thought I had mentioned that in an earlier post. But this is getting long to say the least. Will have white trim on the back, similar to Peter Brock's personal Coupe. And some white trim on the engine cover. But that's it. Going for a clean, modern, sports car look. No numbers, advertising, etc.

[Garage Guy]

Sounds like it is going to look sharp! Can't wait to see it.

[edwardb]

It’s been a couple weeks. Thought I’d at least check in. These projects have a lot of moving parts and remind me all too much of my former life with project management. Right now I’m chasing five different things that are affecting my build. Kind of goes with the territory, but for someone who has never been accused of being very patient, I’m struggling a little. Especially since it’s too cold and crummy out for any more cruising with the Roadster. Wish I had more to share today, but here’s progress on a couple fronts.

#1: My new Serpent Express is in the house. Drove to R&R Trailers in Three Rivers, MI on Wednesday and picked up my new 16-foot SE. Couple of minor differences, but essentially the same as my previous 14 footer, just a little longer. The Coupe will fit and extra room for the Roadster. The new owner of my previous trailer picked it up today. That’s one thing off the list.





#2: The final polished version of my Gen 3 Coupe/Coyote side pipes arrived this week from Georgie at Gas-N. Wow, they are like jewelry. I’ll get them mounted on the Coupe during final assembly when it comes back from paint. I’m a huge fan of the twin pipe look on the Coupe. And also like my bling. Polished stainless looks amazing. These are the first production pipes to be delivered. Contact Georgie is you're interested for your build. You won't be disappointed. That's two things off the list.



#3: Paint. Wish I had something new to share here. Was hoping to get an update today but didn’t. It’s completely ready for color. Primer is done, wet sanded, etc. as I previously posted. Last week I visited the shop and approved the color spray-outs. Now just waiting for my turn in the booth. On the home stretch, just need to get it finished and back in the home shop. Will lose a couple days because of the Thanksgiving holiday. So suspect I’m still 7-10 days away unless something happened in the last couple days I don’t know about. One comment that may be of interest. The color I have on my Roadster is Ford RZ Red Candy 2, which is a tri-coat. Love the color and specified the same on the Coupe. Since that time, the shop has switched from Standox to Sikkens. They said they could get very close to the effect of the tri-coat with a more standard Sikkens base coat/clear coat. I agreed and that’s what Sikkens mixed. It’s hard to exactly compare small samples but looks really good. It’s a bit cheaper for materials, spraying is much simpler, and acceptable touch-up is more possible.

The other two items aren’t affecting anything at this moment, so I’ll leave them out for now. Hopefully my next post will be colorful. Happy Thanksgiving everyone. We have a lot to be thankful for.

[delta0014]

These things look awesome.

[David Williamson]

Side pipes look amazing and I assume they have a real muffler in them.
My painter also wanted to say away from tri-coat paint to make any repair easier.
David W

[wareaglescott]

Those pipes do look amazing. Cant wait to see some color pics. One of the funnest parts of any build in my opinion.

[edwardb]

Side pipes look amazing and I assume they have a real muffler in them.
David W

These finished pipes are constructed exactly like the prototypes that I showed previously, including in the videos with the engine running and driving up/down the street. I wouldn't call them "quiet pipes" but like all Gas-N pipes have a mellow and much more acceptable sound than the stock FF pipes. Especially the FF Coupe pipes. Plus the way they're made, the sound stays the same over time. Many, including me, have found they don't blow out like some pipes. My Roadster with 6,500 miles sounds exactly the same as the day they were installed. I can't cite the exact construction, but according to the Gas-N website, "We use a ceramic blanket packing and 304 stainless steel wool in the muffler to add to the sound quality. We do not use fiberglass packing." The quality of the construction and welds is amazing.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Those pipes are a thing of beauty Paul!

Yep, lots of "mixologists" like my local guy Cody Headley and Randy Borcherding at Painthouse in Texas are coming up with BC/CC formulas that give the look of some of the popular tri-coats without having to resort to 3 stage. Both have done paint mixes for me that have every bit as much depth as the tri-coats without the fuss. Miller and I have talked at length about this...he's really resistant to doing 3 stage; I have, and will continue to do them (and collect the 25% increase in labor cost ) but we'd just as soon avoid it when possible, especially if we can get virtually the same appearance in the end with some of these special formulas which are ideal when doing an "all over" spray.

I'm looking forward to seeing color on the Coupe but I'm sure not as much as you are!

Jeff

[Raceral]

As usual.... perfection. LOVE IT

[edwardb]

Big progress to report for the paint. Yesterday, the shop did the stage and mask for the final paint steps. Then sprayed a tinted sealer over the completed and wet sanded primer. Said they added the tint to the sealer to give the most consistent color possible for the base color. Plus said for rock chips and such would show some color versus white. (Perish that thought. For now anyway.) Then put the base color on. Today the clear started and I was there to watch. These pictures are after the first coat. Said it will get five. Next week it will get sanded and polished and I may have it back home late in the week. If not then soon after. The color is just what I wanted and I think looks amazing. All the work they did getting the body sorted out is paying off now. Looks flawless. I did half white on the back. Kind of a trademark Coupe look plus Peter Brock’s is painted that way with no stripes and just that trim color, as I've mentioned before. Kind of cool and the look I’m going for. Nothing more to say but show the pics.

[Higgybulin]

Looks great Paul!!! I'll have to get back over to see it when you get it home!

[Garage Guy]

Wow looks real good

[GoDadGo]

Wow looks real good

Double Ditto On The Wow Factor!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looks great! Do you know what clear they are using?

Jeff

[edwardb]

Looks great! Do you know what clear they are using?

Jeff

Hi Jeff. Not specifically. I asked and it's Sikkens. Said everything except the initial body filler is from Sikkens. Said they don't like to mix brands from there out.

[q4stix]

That's one nice looking coupe! I'm more a metallic color fan but that stands out really nicely!
I like the simplicity of the single white patch too. Not something usually seen but still has heritage

[Straversi]

That’s going to be stunning!
-Steve

[David Williamson]

WOW looks great!!
David W

[VAHokie]

Looks great, Paul. Looking forward to seeing the finished product!