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Thread: Willwood pedal box questions

  1. #1
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    Willwood pedal box questions

    I'm concerned that the two small fluid reservoirs do not have a sufficient capacity for the jumbo brakes on my car. Seems to me just one of the calipers will displace more fluid through pad wear than one of the reservoirs. Withh all four jumbo calipers sharing one reservoir there will be insuficent fluid in reserve especially if that is an issue like a leak. Plus it seems that one reservoir per master cylinder makes it easier spot a problem like a leak. So I'm thinking a third reservoir is a must.

    The clutch and brake pedal are too high compared to the accelerator pedal and there is insufficient adjustment to remedy this. Can the master cylinder rods be cut without affecting operation?

    Thanks as always,

    Robert.

  2. #2
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    Separate reservoirs are a must in my opinion too. Can’t help you with the pedal question as I have power brakes but have you considered a different accelerator pedal? Russ Thompson makes a nice one with a lot of adjustability fore and aft. Good luck
    JRL16
    Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gas’n sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.

  3. #3
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clyde's Keeper View Post
    I'm concerned that the two small fluid reservoirs do not have a sufficient capacity for the jumbo brakes on my car. Seems to me just one of the calipers will displace more fluid through pad wear than one of the reservoirs. Withh all four jumbo calipers sharing one reservoir there will be insuficent fluid in reserve especially if that is an issue like a leak. Plus it seems that one reservoir per master cylinder makes it easier spot a problem like a leak. So I'm thinking a third reservoir is a must.

    The clutch and brake pedal are too high compared to the accelerator pedal and there is insufficient adjustment to remedy this. Can the master cylinder rods be cut without affecting operation?

    Thanks as always,

    Robert.
    The push rods can be cut, but do so in small amounts. I only needed to modify one of the MC push rods. You can also get or make adjustable push rods that will help you get the proper pedal position.
    Last edited by Papa; 04-14-2018 at 07:36 PM.
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  4. #4
    Senior Member DSR-3's Avatar
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    Like Papa wrote- yes on cutting the rods but be conservative. I had to cut them to get leg room. re. Accelerator pedal- if you're using DBW, you can adapt other car's units too. I used an Infiniti/Nissan pedal as I prefer the floor-mount style. For reservoirs, I and other have used the Tilton 3 pot unit which is nice.

  5. #5
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    I am using the Tilton reservoirs
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-72-576/overview/

    I cut the push rods a 1/2 inch and notched the clutch to get more throw where it was hitting pedal mount. I moved the pedals forward about 3 inch to gain some leg room.
    Last edited by Mitch Wright; 12-18-2017 at 11:35 AM.

  6. #6
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    So the Wilwood pedal position is so tall its ridiculous. I went thru the hassle of custom making a bracket to bring the accelerator to the proper position alongside the brake and clutch, only to realize once I got the seat installed, that I could never drive the car without becoming a foldable yoga master or something. For reference, I have a 33" inseam. so not crazy tall. I'm thinking I will cut the push rods to try to get a reasonable pedal position... I need a lot more space...

  7. #7
    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    I too had to cut the rods to push the pedals back farther.
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    818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A

  8. #8
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    How much were you able to cut off and still get the full stroke on the master cylinder?

  9. #9
    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    I don't recall, that was quite a while ago. I do remember taking off small amounts until I got the pedal where I wanted it. I also had to file off some of the aluminum clevis that the rod attaches to because it rubbed on the pedal after shortening the rod.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
    818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018
    818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A

  10. #10
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    That's helpful. Thanks. Just knowing the clevis needed modification gives me a good idea of how much you shortened it.

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