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Thread: JimLev's Build

  1. #161
    RoadRacer's Avatar
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    I noticed that the springs arent tie-wrapped to top spring cap? I can't remember if that was in manual or a tip..
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, GT500 wheels

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  3. #162

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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    I noticed that the springs arent tie-wrapped to top spring cap? I can't remember if that was in manual or a tip..
    I don't remember seeing that in the manual, will check again.
    There are C clips that hold them in place.
    Is there some concern that the springs and caps could come dislodged?

    update....
    It does say that in the manual.
    Are the tie wraps meant to be left in permanetly or just when the shocks/springs are being assembled?
    Last edited by JimLev; 07-15-2018 at 09:19 AM.

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  5. #163
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    pg 39 in my manual "Run zip ties through the holes in the spring hat and around the spring to prevent the spring from becoming unseated."

    I assumed they meant while under zero load ( i.e. jacked up or over bumps) the spring may go sideways and not be seated correctly? I put two per spring..

    ziptie.jpeg
    Last edited by RoadRacer; 07-15-2018 at 09:23 AM.
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, GT500 wheels

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  7. #164
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    I missed this too. Have to go back and check

  8. #165
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    I missed it too but I'm running QA1's. Zip ties seem like pretty inefficient way of accomplishing this. They don't hold up well in the elements.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  9. #166

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    I was thinking the same thing about zip ties. I have some stainless welding wire that I'll use. Thanks for the heads up RoadRacer.
    I did get the shorter bolts and thin nylock nuts done today.

    Question about the Koni 82-2610 shocks from FFR.
    They say adjustable...how? Koni sent me some instructions for the 82 series but it doesn't match these shocks.
    Last edited by JimLev; 07-15-2018 at 10:15 PM.

  10. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    I was thinking the same thing about zip ties. I have some stainless welding wire that I'll use...
    Most stainless steel welding wire is 316 which will work-harden, so on something that moves or flexes often it will just get hard a break. Use safety wire - it's 303 or 304 stainless which is less prone to work-hardening.

    If you use a good UV-resistant zip tie, you probably have nothing to worry about. There are several things I would use safety wire on, but in many cases I would use zip ties.
    -- Mike --
    TxMike64
    TxM Garage

  11. #168

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    Mike, I was going to use 0.035 ER309 wire which is mostly nickel and chrome, IIRC.
    There shouldn't be much if any flexing between the cap and the top coil.
    What do you think, go get some safety wire?

  12. #169
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    You're probably right about any flexing in this case... so 309 would probably be fine. The high nickel keeps it fairly ductile.
    -- Mike --
    TxMike64
    TxM Garage

  13. #170
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    Glad you guys brought it up, totally missed that

  14. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    The diff is in. I ground down the edges of the bushings to adjust the spacing to match the front diff holes.
    Took all of 30 min to do everything. I spent pretty much the whole day trying to get that diff to bolt in.
    I had the same issue. I tried ratchet nylon tiedown straps and torqued it close then nudges it on over with a bottle jack.

  15. #172
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    Billet Specialties top mount, fit fine

  16. #173

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    Moving on....got a lot of the wiring done in the last few days, still have some left to do.
    The starter had just too many wires going to it and it was too close to the exhaust header for me.
    I bought a 4 lug terminal strip to connect all the wires that should go to the solenoid and then ran one wire from the terminal strip to the solenoid.
    I then used some left over heat shield to put between the starter and the exhaust.

    DSCN2219.JPG

    The Platinum gauges come with adapter fittings from FFR, they don't fit the LS engine. Other adapters are required and a shorter water temp sensor is required if you want to install the temp sensor in the back side of the pass head.
    I decided to just drill and tap the water pump outlet and use the sensor that came with the gauge FFR supplied.

    DSCN2223.JPG

    The oil pressure sensor would also require an adaptor. I just drilled and tapped the block-off plate where an external oil cooler would attach. I had all the fittings, didn't need to buy anything.
    Will add a heat shield here too after I have the wiring done.

    DSCN2254.JPG
    Last edited by JimLev; 07-25-2018 at 09:54 AM. Reason: Typos

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  18. #174
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    This is why I plan to use the Can-Bus gauges from Speedhut. They plug directly into the OBDII connector. No additional sending units and you eliminate that portion of the RF harness except the fuel level sender. Also the speedometer has a check engine light, can display trouble codes, and delete them.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  19. #175

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    That sounds like a nice way to do it. However when I ordered my car I didn't know about the Can-Bus gauges. Now that I have looked into them I probably wouldn't have ordered them due to the additional $700+ cost. I bought a lot of options when I ordered the car including the LS3 and tranny from GM. I'm already over 2x what the 2 stage kit cost and not done spending. The UPS guy and I are buddy's now, he's here a few times a week, he's a car guy too.

  20. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    That sounds like a nice way to do it. However when I ordered my car I didn't know about the Can-Bus gauges. Now that I have looked into them I probably wouldn't have ordered them due to the additional $700+ cost. I bought a lot of options when I ordered the car including the LS3 and tranny from GM. I'm already over 2x what the 2 stage kit cost and not done spending. The UPS guy and I are buddy's now, he's here a few times a week, he's a car guy too.
    I know what you mean about the spending. I am afraid to run a total on what I've spent so far. I took the $350 gauge delete credit, so that paid for half but I'm still over 38K just for the kit and running gear and I haven't bought wheels and tires. I'm not sure if anyone has said it but, fun ain't cheap. I wouldn't trade it for anything. I have wanted to build a car from the ground up since I was a teenager.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  21. #177

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    Same here Andy. I have a mental total in my head, just not waiting for my wife to ask what I'm up to. It's around $45k with the new LS3, tranny, wheels, and tires.
    I've done a lot of wiring (AC and heater wired and tested) and just finished the AC lines. Did a vacuum checked of the system for leaks, it's good.
    Now I can finish the cooling system lines.

    The Mastercool crimper is fantastic, so easy to use.

    DSCN1886.JPG

    DSCN2285.JPG

    DSCN2286.JPG

    DSCN2289.JPG

  22. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Same here Andy. I have a mental total in my head, just not waiting for my wife to ask what I'm up to. It's around $45k with the new LS3, tranny, wheels, and tires.
    I've done a lot of wiring (AC and heater wired and tested) and just finished the AC lines. Did a vacuum checked of the system for leaks, it's good.
    Now I can finish the cooling system lines.

    The Mastercool crimper is fantastic, so easy to use.

    DSCN1886.JPG

    DSCN2285.JPG

    DSCN2286.JPG

    DSCN2289.JPG
    Ditto on the Master Cool crimper. It worked so well I did the heater hoses too.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  23. #179

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    Today I filled and bled the brakes, used my pressure bleeder with a vacuum bleeder on the calipers.
    Next I wired up the trinary switch to the compressor clutch and the radiator fan. Had to use an additional relay (not supplied) for the AC over pressure circuit to route power to the fan.

  24. #180

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    Got the radiator connected to the LS3 engine.
    Had to use a swivel connection for the t-stat housing as the LS3 housing points the wrong way.
    All of the connections are different sizes which makes it a pain, 3 trips to the parts store to find hoses to use.
    In the end I did find a top hose that has the correct dimensions.

    Dscn2294.jpg

    DSCN2296.JPG

    The bottom hose had to be pieced together using a real hose, the corrugated FFR supplied stainless using their reducers and coupling.
    I needed to use 2 clamps on each side of the coupling to keep them from blowing off/leaking.
    The radiator cap is rated at 16PSI. I pressurized the system to 15 PSI for over an hour, no leaks.
    I tied the same thing earlier with only one clamp on the FFR coupling, it blew off the t-stat housing.
    Got the steam line plumbed as well as the tranny cooling lines to the radiator connected.

    Dscn2291.jpg

    DSCN2293.JPG
    Last edited by JimLev; 08-15-2018 at 11:07 PM.

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