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Thread: JimLev's Build

  1. #121
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Thanks wrp.

    Haven't had much spare time in the last week to work on the car.
    I started to do the exhaust which will require cutting and welding due to the BBK headers not aligning with the FFR pipes. I worked on that for a while and then decided to go back to the electrical.
    Hey Jim, take a good look at the BBK headers, after successfully getting our first start we soon discovered that the headers were leaking exhaust right inside at the plate of where they all connect together, I get a distinct hissing as well as blow out from in between. So if you have not yet installed your headers or their easily removable, inspect them and if possible plug the four pipes that go to your engine and use a shop vac in reverse to pressurize the exhaust end, you may find that they also leak. I will be contacting FFR to see what they want to do as there is NO WAY of correcting this.

  2. #122
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    AJT, they are installed but are easily removable. Before I installed them I did visually check them out, they looked OK.
    I like your "test" method.
    I still have the GM ones that came on the LS3 as well as the Hooker's from FFR.
    FFR sent you BBK headers? They sent me Hooker headers, I purchased the BBK myself.

  3. #123
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Thanks wrp.

    Haven't had much spare time in the last week to work on the car.
    I started to do the exhaust which will require cutting and welding due to the BBK headers not aligning with the FFR pipes. I worked on that for a while and then decided to go back to the electrical.
    I stripped off the corrugated covering which made running the cables much easier. I'll put some of it back on later. Also have a few rolls of automotive cloth tape that I'll use too.
    Andy, I decided to move my FF fuse box to the left side like you did. Keep staying ahead of me so I can pick up some tips from your build.

    Attachment 85195

    Attachment 85196

    Attachment 85197

    UPS came today with a very early b-day present.
    I treated myself to another tool that I will probably only use on this car.
    With 18 connections to crimp it will pay for itself.

    Attachment 85198
    I also purchased the crimper from Amazon. I have used it on my heater hoses so far. It works great and is cheaper than paying some one to do all those crimps.
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

  4. #124
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    I guess I got lucky... I got an AC unit from Classic Auto Air and they are local to me. I stopped in to talk to them and they told me that they will crimp my hoses for me for free.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  5. #125
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    I guess I got lucky... I got an AC unit from Classic Auto Air and they are local to me. I stopped in to talk to them and they told me that they will crimp my hoses for me for free.
    You are lucky Tim. I got mine from the same place but, being from a small town over 5 hours from Dallas has it's drawbacks. The locals wanted $10- $15 a crimp. I'll put it up for sale when I'm through.
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

  6. #126
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    Free is good. Found mine on eBay. Will probably sell it too when I'm done with it.

    Andy, I followed some of your info again today.
    I've been complaining about stuffing 10 lbs of wire into a 5 lb space. Today I seceded.
    I stripped off the plastic corrugated tubing off the GM fuse box cable and the cable to the ECU.
    I then used automotive cloth tape to bind both together resulting in a bundle much smaller to work with.
    This is both cables bundled together.
    DSCN1890.JPG

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    DSCN1894.JPG

    DSCN1896.JPG

    DSCN1897.JPG

    I still have room for the PS controller and the tranny controller.

  7. #127
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post

    Jim,

    I like how you have your fuse box mounted. But can you get to all the fuses to change them when the body is on?
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  8. #128
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Free is good. Found mine on eBay. Will probably sell it too when I'm done with it.

    Andy, I followed some of your info again today.
    I've been complaining about stuffing 10 lbs of wire into a 5 lb space. Today I seceded.
    I stripped off the plastic corrugated tubing off the GM fuse box cable and the cable to the ECU.
    I then used automotive cloth tape to bind both together resulting in a bundle much smaller to work with.
    This is both cables bundled together.
    DSCN1890.JPG

    DSCN1891.JPG

    DSCN1892.JPG

    DSCN1894.JPG

    DSCN1896.JPG

    DSCN1897.JPG

    I still have room for the PS controller and the tranny controller.
    Nice Job!! Re-configuring the harness is an excellent idea, since the fuse box was intended to be mounted in the engine bay, now you can configure it however you want. I may use some of those ideas, if you don't mind. I was looking last night with frustration, as I have run out of room. This weekend I will start by moving the a/c 2 inches to the right. Similar to yours but a different brand. I may also re-think my ECM and fuse box mounting. I haven't done much to the car, except stare at it and roll different ideas around in my head (it's a very large empty space). I even took the day off last Saturday and went fishing. I did order a relay to briefly power the purge solenoid on startup. I will let you know how it works out.
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

  9. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    Jim,

    I like how you have your fuse box mounted. But can you get to all the fuses to change them when the body is on?
    I think so. The one bolt that holds the box to the frame should be reachable. Weird that the box only has one tab for mounting.
    Behind the box I have a 2" wide 4" long piece of Velcro holding the upper part of the box to the frame.
    Should be able to remove the box and pull it off the Velcro.

  10. #130
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    Andy, yes frustration. Every night when I go to bed I lay awake thinking how am I going to fix this or that, make things fit, etc.
    The cloth tape I used is this...
    https://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Wire-Loo...ive+cloth+tape

    Mounted the Electro Steer (the motor cables reach to box) and the tranny controller today.
    Will probably remove the corrugated tubing on the tranny cables and tape them too.
    That will be all I do for the next week. We're flying to MA tomorrow. Going to my old stomping grounds, Wareham. Will visit Tony and the gang on Monday.

    DSCN1898.JPG
    Last edited by JimLev; 05-02-2018 at 11:14 PM. Reason: Added text

  11. #131
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    Jim-

    I like the crimping tool you picked up. Any chance you would mind sharing the link? Thanks in advance!

    Regards,

    Steve

  12. #132
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    Steve, I found it on eBay. It was the least expensive place I could find.
    Here ya go.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mastercool-...72.m2749.l2649

  13. #133
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Andy, yes frustration. Every night when I go to bed I lay awake thinking how am I going to fix this or that, make things fit, etc.
    The cloth tape I used is this...
    https://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Wire-Loo...ive+cloth+tape

    Mounted the Electro Steer (the motor cables reach to box) and the tranny controller today.
    Will probably remove the corrugated tubing on the tranny cables and tape them too.
    That will be all I do for the next week. We're flying to MA tomorrow. Going to my old stomping grounds, Wareham. Will visit Tony and the gang on Monday.

    DSCN1898.JPG
    Thanks for the link on the tape. I just ordered some. Be careful and enjoy your trip.
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

  14. #134
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    Thanks. I'm hoping I can convince Tony to swap my old style fuel tank for the new design.
    Both trunk hinge arms hit the sides of the tank. Dave said to move the arms to the outside of the pivot points. The pass side will be ok, but on the drivers side the arm will hit the rubber fuel filler hose.

  15. #135
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    New fuel tank is in, glad I had an angle grinder and TIG to make it fit. The top mounting tabs were welded on too high so the tank wouldn't fit under the top boxed steel.
    If you get a new tank you'll need the new level sensor which has the supply and return lines.
    You will also need an external fuel pump.

    DSCN1978.JPG

  16. #136
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    The new tank and external fuel pump are installed. Today I used my vacuum pump to check for any leaks, it's all good.
    Now to get back on the exhaust, ugh.

  17. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Steve, I found it on eBay. It was the least expensive place I could find.
    Here ya go.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mastercool-...72.m2749.l2649
    Thanks Jim! I am pleased to hear that it worked so well for you! I may have to add it to my tool box.

    Thank you again for the link.

    Regards,

    Steve

  18. #138
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    Still working on the exhaust, ugh.
    FedEx was here today and coming again tomorrow.
    The wheels (spokes) just clear the calipers by 4-5mm.
    The fronts have over an inch from the caliper to the barrel.
    The rears have maybe 7mm from the caliper to the barrel.

    DSCN2033.JPG

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    Last edited by JimLev; 05-24-2018 at 07:01 PM. Reason: Added more info

  19. #139
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    Those wheels are awesome

  20. #140
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Still working on the exhaust, ugh.
    FedEx was here today and coming again tomorrow.
    The wheels (spokes) just clear the calipers by 4-5mm.
    The fronts have over an inch from the caliper to the barrel.
    The rears have maybe 7mm from the caliper to the barrel.

    DSCN2033.JPG

    DSCN2034.JPG

    DSCN2035.JPG

    DSCN2036.JPG

    Dscn2038.jpg

    Dscn2039.jpg

    DSCN2040.JPG
    What brakes are you running Jim?
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

  21. #141
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    HVACMAN, I bought the FFr stock Ford brakes, dual pistons in the front and a single piston in the rear.
    These guys.

    DSCN1496.JPG

    FedEx never showed up today with my tires even though tracking said it was on the truck at 7AM for delivery.

  22. #142
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    FedEx finally brought the tires on Sat a little after 4PM so getting them mounted on the wheels wasn't going to happen until today.
    The rears are 295/35/18's, wheel and tire weigh 55 lbs, glad I didn't go with 19".
    The fronts are 235/45/17's, 42 lbs.
    DSCN2055.JPG

    DSCN2054.JPG

    DSCN2057.JPG

    Finally got most of the exhaust installed and insulated, still need to insulate above the mufflers with that DEI gold stuff.
    Haven't connected the muffler inlet pipe to the collector yet, that will be my next task.

    DSCN2058.JPG

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  24. #143
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
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    That tire and wheel combo looks amazing Jim.
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

  25. #144
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    Thanks Andy.

    Finally fabricated the pipes I needed to connect the headers to the muffler inlet pipes.
    Turns out the J pipe that FFR sends if you are going to use the side exhaust worked out fine.
    Just had to make the correct angle cuts, then do some grinding on the flange that bolts to the headers.
    At this point everything is just tacked on, still need to weld the flanges on both ends of the pipe and weld the O2 bung.
    DSCN2059.JPG

    I insulated the under side of the floor directly above the mufflers with the DEI gold foil.
    I'll do the top side with the FFR insulation after I rivet the floors in.
    DSCN2060.JPG

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  27. #145
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    Finally got the flanges welded and the complete exhaust system bolted in along with all the pipes wrapped with DEI insulation.
    Also put more DEI on the bottom side of the floors.

    DSCN2150.JPG

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  29. #146
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    Finished mounting the ebrake and moving it forward so the pass seat can slide.
    Had to make a threaded extension for the adjuster under the floor, the thread is 1/4 x 28.

    DSCN2172.JPG

    DSCN2173.JPG

    DSCN2180.JPG

    DSCN2181.JPG

    DSCN2182.JPG

    I wanted to get the Lokar shifter mounted to the top of the tranny today but as usual one thing led to another.
    I bought sliders for the seats, so to determine where the shifter should go so I could reach it I needed to mount the seats.
    Only got the pass side done. I raised the seat up 3.5", bolted directly to the floor was way too low for me.
    The seat can be moved 5" now.
    I wanted to use unistrut, not available at HD or Tractor Supply, I settled on slotted angle iron. A little more work but it came out fine.

    DSCN2183.JPG

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    DSCN2187.JPG
    Last edited by JimLev; 06-28-2018 at 08:17 AM.

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  31. #147
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    Got the drivers seat mounted and an approximate location to mount the Lokar shifter on top of the tranny.
    I'll need to make a bracket for it to mount to, either connected to the frame or to the back of the tranny using the top 2 bolts that connect the tail shaft to the tranny body.

    DSCN2189.JPG

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  33. #148
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    The Lokar shifter is in (4L65e tranny), still need to make a rear support for it. The shifter is mounted to a bracket that I bolted to the back of the tranny.
    I used a 3/8" threaded rod on the pass side, couldn't do that on the DS because of the linkage arm.
    More info in the pics.

    Dscn2190a.jpg

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    DSCN2195.JPG

    DSCN2196.JPG

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  35. #149
    Member Lancaster Lad's Avatar
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    JimLev
    Just reread your build log and missed the first time where you removed the tubing from the ECU and re taped
    the wires. That might help my situation for space to put the wires.
    The question for today is about the Lokar Sport Shifter. I noticed the shift ball only has D (drive) no 3rd 2nd
    or 1st. Can the lever move to lower gears without going to manual mode. The reason I ask is sometimes I
    downshift to third gear on an offramp to help the brakes, same as in a manual trans. I would like to do this
    without switching to manual mode.
    Thank you for your time. Even though I am building a Roadster I follow your's and HVACMAN build for ideas
    since I have a ls3 with auto trans also.
    MKIV 8851 Complete LS3 376/480 4L70e Auto 2015 IRS 15" Wheels Rear Exhaust

    Ordered 2/25/16 Delivered 3/26/16 Still building 1/1/22

  36. #150
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    L Lad, yes it can, just push the shifter over to the right and then you can bump it backwards or forward to manually change gears. This is all done thru the tranny ECU not the cable that puts it into P, R, N, D.
    The tranny controller has an input from a brake pedal switch to unlock the torque converter.

  37. #151
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    JimLev Thanks for the information. Now I need to decide to spend another $300 + . As has been said before
    'what budget?'. I like your mount to the trans but my elbow would need to bend backward to work for me,
    9 1/4" driveshaft instead of 31+".
    Thank you for giving me some ideas to think about.
    MKIV 8851 Complete LS3 376/480 4L70e Auto 2015 IRS 15" Wheels Rear Exhaust

    Ordered 2/25/16 Delivered 3/26/16 Still building 1/1/22

  38. #152
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    L Lad, as someone here has said before, "we're helpful at spending other people's money".

  39. #153
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    Spent most of the day drilling the grill, condenser brackets, the radiator, and fan shroud to get it all put together and installed.
    Can't believe it took this long. Now I have no adjustment due to the fan shroud. It hits the shock bolts at the top and the frame at the bottom.
    Shorter bolts for the top of the shocks would help a little.

    DSCN2204.JPG

    DSCN2205.JPG

    DSCN2206.JPG

    DSCN2207.JPG

    DSCN2208.JPG

    At least it's now sitting on the floor and off the jack stands.
    It's LOW!

    DSCN2210.JPG

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    Forgot to add the Unisteer works great. One hand on the wheel is all it takes to turn it when your not moving.
    Without the Unisteer powered you need both hands.

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  42. #155
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post

    Jim,

    Just wondering here, but with the way the fan looks, is there a way that you could move the fan to the inside of the shroud? It looks like there is a flat surface that might let it sit flush on the inside and then give you more on the outside.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  43. #156
    Senior Member CVOBill's Avatar
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    Jim, I had the same problem with the upper shock bolts. I used shorter bolts and thin Ny-lock nuts and have plenty of room now.
    CVOBill
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    Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
    TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
    MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater

  44. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Spent most of the day drilling the grill, condenser brackets, the radiator, and fan shroud to get it all put together and installed.
    Can't believe it took this long. Now I have no adjustment due to the fan shroud. It hits the shock bolts at the top and the frame at the bottom.
    Shorter bolts for the top of the shocks would help a little.
    Is that the Mike Everson fan shroud?
    -- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage
    Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread

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  46. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    Jim,

    Just wondering here, but with the way the fan looks, is there a way that you could move the fan to the inside of the shroud? It looks like there is a flat surface that might let it sit flush on the inside and then give you more on the outside.
    Tim, the fan looks to be just a little too big to fit inside the shroud. Good idea though.

  47. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by CVOBill View Post
    Jim, I had the same problem with the upper shock bolts. I used shorter bolts and thin Ny-lock nuts and have plenty of room now.
    Bill, I'm going to get shorter bolts. Where did you get the thin Ny-lock nuts from?
    I may also cut a few of the plastic ribs off for a little more room when the suspension is unloaded.
    Now that it's sitting on the grounds I have about 1/2" of clearance. The above pic was with the wheels hanging.

    Update,
    I found the thin my-lock nuts on Amazon
    Last edited by JimLev; 07-15-2018 at 09:21 AM.

  48. #160
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Placitas, NM
    Posts
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    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by TxMike64 View Post
    Is that the Mike Everson fan shroud?
    Yes, it from Mike. It's a nice shroud and fits perfect.

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