JimLev's Build

[sethmark]

I’m not Jim, but I ran along the trans securing every 12”. I pulled the cables away from the yoke and riveted clamps to the inside of the tunnel.

[JimLev]

Plimpton, I routed the rear wires down both sides of the tranny underneath the tunnel cover. The sides of my tranny had a few unused holes that I tapped to hold the wires.
I kept all of them on the top side of the frame rails. I also added an additional steel support in one location where there was a span of more than 12".

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[FF33rod]

and same with me, both sides - power down the passenger side and rear harness coupled with rear camera and other added wires (Speaker, door switch, backup lights, power window) goes down the driver side. Just support it well....

[HVACMAN]

I took a different route. I went on top of the tunnel. IMG_0094.JPGIMG_0093.JPG I didn't feel comfortable running them underneath the car.

[JimLev]

I should update my build as I have been working on it, just been busy with too many other things lately.

I do have a question about the NCG J703 tool that comes with our kit.
It has threaded bits for various sizes nutserts but none for 6x32.
Does anyone have info where I could get the part to use for 6x32 nutserts?

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[TxMike64]

6-32 is an uncommon size and rather small. 8-32 is a much better size all around and much more common. The NCG looks like a Chinese knock-off of the Astro Pneumatic tool. I would imagine the Astro mandrels would work in the NCG.

[JimLev]

Thanks, I'll check out Astro.
NCG is a Taiwan company.
I'm looking for this size as I have a ton of 6x32 nutserts that I use on other projects.
I have a really old tool (BF Goodrich C6000) for them but would like to get a 6x32 bit for the NCG.
This is my old tool.
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Follow up....
I found a 6x32 mandrel for an Astro, it looks like it might fit. Only $9 so I ordered it.

[Plimpton]

[QUOTE=JimLev;388167]Plimpton, I routed the rear wires down both sides of the tranny underneath the tunnel cover. The sides of my tranny had a few unused holes that I tapped to hold the wires.
I kept all of them on the top side of the frame rails. I also added an additional steel support in one location where there was a span of more than 12".

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Jim, Seth and others who have attempted to answer my question- thanks but, what my specific concern is about is where to route the wiring after it leaves the fiberglass transmission cover. Did you route the cables and wires inside the sheet metal driveshaft cover, along with the driveshaft (sounds like Seth did it this way), or did you go below the cockpit floor exposed on the bottom of the car?

[JimLev]

I don't have any wire inside the sheetmetal driveshaft cover.
They are routed off to the sides between the upper and lower bottom frame.
Here's a few not so good pics.

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[FF33rod]

Yes, inside the aluminum driveshaft cover. Here's 2 pics. The wires aren't full supported yet in these pics...
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[sethmark]

I did exactly the same thing that Steve did. Secured appropriately, there’s absolutely no way they could ever get into the driveshaft or yoke.

[JimLev]

Finally got some time to work on the '33 the last few days.
I was sidetracked helping our son change every bushing on his 190K mile 4Runner, that took us 3.5 days.
Then I bought myself a new 60 gal compressor, had to then put in a 240v outlet for it.
Also got a new 10 drawer tool box.

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I bought a new 4L60e tranny pan with a drain plug for my 4L65e, it almost fit. The 65e filter is a bit bigger than the 60e filter.
One edge of the filter's 1/2" bead was touching the side of the filter. A 1/16" trim fixed that.

I added a tranny cooler a few months ago and later decided to add a temp controlled 80 CFM fan to cool it.
I built a "dog house" enclosure over it, sort of a pain as a frame tube runs right thru the enclosure.

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Next was to mount the 2 rear fenders, mostly to get the mounting holes and rivnuts done.
The pass side went OK. The drivers side fender looks like it was formed wrong. I'm waiting for Tony Z to get back to me.

This is the pass side, which is fine.
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Drivers side, not good.
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[JimLev]

Mounted the rear fenders last week. Looks like I'm going to have to heat the drivers side fender to get it to more resemble the pass side.
I did rotate it back as much as possible to get it closer to how the pass side looks per Tony Z.
This week I put the running boards on.
I'm using 4 pieces of square tubing on both sides bolted to the bottom of the chassis that extends under the running boards for support.
Hopefully no one will ever step on them but if they do they won't break.

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Happy Holidays to all.
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[JimLev]

Finally got back in the garage to do some fiberglass cutting. Thanks for the tips AJT'33.
The side panels are a work in progress, I still need to trim the front to fit the radiator and then attach it to the car.

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[Bgardner]

Jim

vents in the side panels look great. Can you let me know where you sourced them or are they a custom made piece?


Thanks Bob

[JimLev]

Bob, I bought them from some place on line about a year ago.
I'll dig up the paperwork, it must be in the garage somewhere.
IIRC they were about $125. They come with mounting brackets and hardware.

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[Bgardner]

Thanks Jim

Much appreciated, they do look great and match nice with the grill.

[FF33rod]

Here's what I found. I asked about price a couple of days ago, $199 for the raw aluminum, powder coating or anodizing will be extra

http://www.streetdreamsbyross.com/vents.php

Steve

[JimLev]

Thanks FF33rod, I just found the paperwork. I was way off on the price. Shipping is extra. My total was $228.
The ones I purchased are the 24" long vents.

[FF33rod]

How did you assemble them Jim? The instructions that they sent me by email had a generic statement at the beginning about having welding skills but then the detailed sections mention panel bond. How did you assemble yours and how do they stay put in the opening?

Steve

[JimLev]

I haven't "glued" the inside brackets in yet, I was thinking about using either fiberglass resin or epoxy.
I think the welding is for mounting them in metal fenders.
The one I have mounted (not glued yet) is nice and tight.
I still need to cut the hole for the drivers side.

[OnlyAndy]

I saw your "Vents" much earlier in your build thread and I got a pair for my 33'. I am no where near getting them installed, heart issue kind of got in the way, but I really like seeing them mounted on your car. One day mine will be installed.... And they are a very nice product for the record. AND yes, right at $200, maybe a little more.

[JimLev]

How did you assemble them Jim? The instructions that they sent me by email had a generic statement at the beginning about having welding skills but then the detailed sections mention panel bond. How did you assemble yours and how do they stay put in the opening?

Steve

You need to make sure you don't cut the slotted hole too high up or you'll need to trim the top of the brackets the are on the back side of the side covers.
Yesterday I cut the slot for the drivers side, today I hope to get the front of both side panels trimmed to fit the grille.

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[JimLev]

Got some snow the other day so both sides didn't get done. It's all melted now so I finished the pass side panel and got the hole cut for the drivers side vent.
Tomorrow I'll drill all of the mounting holes and start trimming the drivers side engine panel.

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[1932]

That looks good! I was going to put some kind of vent in, but then i cut a big hole for turbos. In my lookse the sides need something to set the panel off.

[JimLev]

Haven't done much on the hotrod in the last 2 weeks. Been busy extending the workbench and buying a few new tools for the garage.
A while ago I discovered the center caps on my American Racing wheels prevents the socket from fitting squarely on the lug nuts.
The center cap would need to be removed or get a thin wall socket. Off to HF to get a regular deep well impact socket and start using one of the new tools.

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[sethmark]

You can get thin lug nuts. (Damn them wheels are sexy)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gor-21183bc/

[JimLev]

Thanks.
All the lug nuts came with the wheels.

[JimLev]

You can get thin lug nuts. (Damn them wheels are sexy)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gor-21183bc/

Thanks for trying....
3/4" is 19mm which is what came with the wheels.

[JimLev]

Got both engine side panels cut and installed a few days ago.
Still need to do the front fenders, hood, and top.
Thanks again AJT for the roll bar seal info, fits like a glove. I'll screw them down later.
I have the chassis set to factory height however with the running boards I'm scraping going over the little berm at the end of my driveway.
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[JimLev]

In my opinion it looks so much better with the roof on it. It's not attached yet, just sitting in place with the help of some duct tape.
I did find a 1.5" to 1.75" hose adapter for the corrugated stainless FF supplied line that connects to my LS3 t-stat housing on Amazon.
The adapters/spacers that come from FF blew off even with 2 clamps on the t-stat part.
https://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Perfo...PKV1RQ6X0FJTMV

I put 1.25" wheel spacers on the front and 1" spacers on the back.
Also raised the car about 3/4" to stop the scrapping leaving my driveway.
I ordered the bump steer kit a few days ago from Tim W.
Drove it around the hood a bit today until the rain started moving in.

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[JimLev]

After spending too many days inside because of the virus, I needed to get started on the body, not something I'm that good at doing.
I have two+ days grinding and filling the parting seams in the back. I wanted to get some primer on it.
The weather wasn't cooperating and I only wanted to shoot a little so it was in the garage with most stuff covered up and a fan in the door.
The prep work looked good but after the primer was on I can see some of the body imperfections I missed.

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[cob427sc]

It's amazing how everything looks great until the paint hits the surface. I know how you feel. Been there many times.

[JimLev]

Right you are. I never saw those pin holes before the paint. Gotta get some glaze.

Is your nail head a 425?
When I lived in MA a friend had a 63 1/2 Riv, 425 with two 4's, it was quick.

[cob427sc]

No. Mine is a 364. It was out of a 1958. Friend had stored it in a garage since 1963. Actually he forgot it was there. Rebuilt this winter and runs great. Trying to sort out some issues with the transmission. Hopefully this clears up without having to pull it out.

[JimLev]

Been working on the roof. Grinding, filling, sanding, and priming for the last 4 days.
Next is to remove it and cut around the front & rear windshields openings to increase visibility.
I test fitted them today, pretty good fit.

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[sethmark]

Are you digging out the pockets and filling with rage or short strand?

[JimLev]

You bet, dug them all out, I'm using short strand.
The drivers side A frame had a small pin hole that I tried to fill a few time but it just kept coming out when I would sand it.
I decided to make the hole a little bigger figuring it would have more area to hold on to.
Before I knew it I had a void 1" x 3/4" x 1/2" deep.

[sethmark]

tool of choice?

[JimLev]

tool of choice?

For digging them out, a pick, small screwdriver, shopvac, and an air hose to blow it out.