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Thread: JimLev's Build

  1. #1

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    JimLev's Build

    Finally got something on order today.
    The GM Connect and Cruise LS3 package. I really wanted a 6 speed but FFR said I've have to hack up the tunnel to make it fit and it would take up pedal box space. I got the 4L65E tranny.
    They said it could arrive in a few days.
    I haven't orders the car kit yet, will do that in a few days, still trying to decide on options.

    Questions for you '33 guys.
    1) What is the length of the car?
    2) I'll be ordering the Vintage A/C w/heat. The compressor doesn't come with the kit. Vintage says the GM one won't work with their system. They have an expensive accessory drive system that should work. What have you guys used?

    Thanks,
    JimLev

  2. #2
    RoadRacer's Avatar
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    https://www.factoryfive.com/33-hot-rod/design/ has lots of 33 specs.

    e.g.

    Wheelbase: 112 in.
    Overall Length: 154 in.
    Front Track: 54.5 in.
    Rear Track: 60.0 in.
    Overall Height: 52.5 in.
    Overall Width: 72.0 in
    Ground Clearance: 4.5 in.

    (you just have to ignore that they say the car weighs 2150 and 2250 on the same page!)
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, GT500 wheels

  3. #3

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    Thanks RoadRacer, guess I missed that page.

  4. #4
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    I used one from Eddie Motorsports. It is a very nice unit but it is expensive.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlar View Post
    I used one from Eddie Motorsports. It is a very nice unit but it is expensive.
    Thanks, I'll look into that one. Also read that someone used parts from a CTS-V, cost a little under a grand, they weren't polished aluminum or chrome. I could powder coat them.

    FFR told me I couldn't use the electric power steering with the LS engines. I just finished reading a few build threads where they were used. Wonder why FFR said it wouldn't work?

  6. #6
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    It does work but the motor sticks below the oil pan and frame about 5/8". My customer and I felt it was worth still having the electric P/S. We also used the Vintage Air front runner system.

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...d-by-wallace18

  7. #7

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    Wallace18, thanks for the info and link. I was going to PM you today and ask about the electric PS, don't need to now.
    I'm adding this to my list.

  8. #8
    Senior Member CVOBill's Avatar
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    Congrats on the new build! I have a Coyote engine so I'm not much help but Wallace has done enough of these to guide you.
    CVOBill

    Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 Unassembled from original owner. Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote, TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
    MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003
    5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005

  9. #9
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    2) I'll be ordering the Vintage A/C w/heat. The compressor doesn't come with the kit. Vintage says the GM one won't work with their system. They have an expensive accessory drive system that should work. What have you guys used?

    I bought my AC unit from a third party vendor and he sent a unit from Classic Auto Air and it included the billet controls, a trinary switch, a compressor, and polished compressor lines and pulley. If you check my budget page at http://hotrod.sapp-family.com you will find the prices that I have paid for everything in my build and on the link page you will find a link to the vendors. The AC system was $1,850.00.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  10. #10

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    Thanks again everyone, wish I was a speed reader and could read all of your build threads in a few hours. Lots of good info.

    Tim, I spoke with Steve at Classic Auto. I now have second thoughts about using the Vintage Air system.
    Steve said his system can mount the compressor high or low and it will align with the LS3 pulleys.
    Help? Does it align? I don't really want to spend $2K+ just to get pulleys to align.

  11. #11
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    I can't help you with that part, I am running an SBC out of a Corvette. So it already has a serpentine belt and pulleys for it. I also just got my motor into the frame and have not even started putting the accessories on it yet.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  12. #12
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    A low mount AC compressor from vintage air is actually made by Alan Grove Components. It fits really tight to the block, but it still might interfere with a diagonal tube on the frame. Same goes for the Cadillac CTS low mount alternator. There's a recent post on the other forum from someone who made their own low mount bracket, that is similar to the Alan Grove product. He says it fits, but it has no belt tensioner pulley, which is not ideal. I have this Alan Grove mount and recently took some pics from below, to show how tight the compressor fits. The body of the compressor doesn't clear one of the block mounting bolts by more than a few thousandths of a inch. You'd have to use a countersunk bolt to gain much. Using the Corvette balancer will provide the best chance of clearing, since the belt is 3/4 inch closer to the block than a Camaro balancer.

    http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/i...tions/144R.pdf

    Here's the CTS accessory drive, GM part number 19299070, . It includes a PS pump that's not needed, but could be resold. The PS pump should be replaced with an idler pulley.

    https://paceperformance.com/i-648540...6-engines.html

    Here's an idler pulley:

    http://www.texas-speed.com/p-6391-di...cessories.aspx

    Some dummies either bend the offending tube out a bit or cut some of it out and put in a curved section. Either method makes the tube worthless, as part of a truss frame. You might as well remove the entire tube and not replace it. A better solution is to remove the tube and replace it with one or two tubes that will clear the compressor or alternator, but still use straight tubes on either side of the upper A-arm mount to box between the larger upper and lower tubes. It's the same technique used in floor trusses where a rectangular opening needs to be included for duct work routing.

    Both the compressor and alternator sit so low that they hardly show. No way would I powder coat either one.
    Last edited by DaveS53; 12-31-2017 at 01:55 PM.

  13. #13
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Finally got something on order today.
    The GM Connect and Cruise LS3 package. I really wanted a 6 speed but FFR said I've have to hack up the tunnel to make it fit and it would take up pedal box space. I got the 4L65E tranny.
    They said it could arrive in a few days.
    I haven't orders the car kit yet, will do that in a few days, still trying to decide on options.

    Questions for you '33 guys.
    1) What is the length of the car?
    2) I'll be ordering the Vintage A/C w/heat. The compressor doesn't come with the kit. Vintage says the GM one won't work with their system. They have an expensive accessory drive system that should work. What have you guys used?

    Thanks,
    JimLev
    Jim - My engine actually came with the compressor installed and I ordered my AC/Heat and received before the engine, so I actually have brand new, chrome Sandon AC Compressor still in the box. I don't know if it would work for your set-up, but PM if you're interested and I can send pics. Just looking to cover cost and shipping, not get rich.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fenderless, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17

  14. #14

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    PM sent.

    If Clico fasteners don't come with the kit how many of them do I need to get? I see that 1/8 and 3/16 are needed.

  15. #15

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    Multiple builders have suggested that you will need maybe 35-50 of the 1/8 (copper) clecos and 5-10 of the 3/16 (gold) clecos, along with the special pliers. I've also found that the small clamps are useful for holding sheets together where there are no close rivet holes. These are available from all the usual sources, but I found the best prices on Amazon.
    Keith

  16. #16

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    OK, thanks. They are now on order from Amazon.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    OK, thanks. They are now on order from Amazon.
    Hey Jim, I bought the base kit and supplemented it with additonal 1/8" fasteners, well worth it! I also got it from Amazon.
    Bought this kit: https://www.amazon.com/CLECO-KIT-50-...o+fastener+kit and added these fasteners: https://www.amazon.com/Cleco-Sheet-M...fastener+1%2F8 Have fun!

  18. #18

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    AJT'33, your first link is what I ordered.
    I'll get the second link ordered.

    Thanks for all the help guys.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    AJT'33, your first link is what I ordered.
    I'll get the second link ordered.

    Thanks for all the help guys.
    Dont be surprised how small the package is when you receive it, the picture makes it look big but its really not.

  20. #20

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    Got my '33 Hotrod order placed today. Tony said it would be done on Feb 10th.
    The LS3 and tranny should be here this week.
    Powder coated chassis, IRS with spindles, rear split exhaust, roadster seats, standard hood, platinum gauge package, heat/sound insulation, chrome tilt steering column, EFI fuel system, electric steering, AC and heat, power windows, hard top, full fenders, and 13" rear brake kit.
    Just need to get wheels and tires now.

    Can't wait to get started. I'll probably be bugging a few of you guys with a few questions once I get started.
    Last edited by JimLev; 12-26-2017 at 07:27 PM.

  21. #21

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    The engine and tranny arrived this afternoon.
    I'll need to make a few calls on Monday, the tranny install kit and torque converter are missing.
    DSCN1289.JPGDSCN1290.JPGDSCN1292.JPG

  22. #22
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    Before you go spending a lot of money on ac mounts check out some of the ls swap sites. I used a setup from LSsimple ... the whole thing including compressor, mounts, belt and alternator was under $700... works great with the vintage air.
    I would NOT modify the frame to put in a low mount compressor... The only problem with the high mount is if you are going to run the body side panels. Look at the video on my build page.
    Also if you wanted to go with a standard you could have put a TKO behind the LS motor. It is a 5 speed not 6 but it is much smaller.

  23. #23

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    Thanks for that LSsimple info, just finished reading your whole build thread.
    I'm not going to cut the frame but want the alt to fit so I can put the sides on. I'll have to figure out something.
    I could have lived with the 5 speed I guess, my other car has a 6 speed that I really like. Oh well, too late now, the 4L65E is here so that's what I'm going with.

  24. #24
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    Love those motors

  25. #25

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    Monday is a holiday so it looks like I won't have any answers until Tuesday.
    My wiring harness and ECU's are suppose to be here on Wednesday.
    I need to find a shifter for this tranny, what did you guys use on a 4L60E or 4L65E tranny?

  26. #26
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    Someone posted about participating in a trial of a new shifter from Lokar that sounds promising. I have an older Lokar shifter that is supposed to work with a the 4L60-70E series of trans, but I found it lacking. I had to make a connecting rod from 3/8" steel rod that is bent like a snake to connect the shifter to the trans and I found that the throw was about 11% too great, so I had to alter the length of the lever arm on the shifter to match the needs of the trans.

    Here's a little info from the other forum:

    http://www.ffcars.com/forums/120-fac...d-706-a-3.html

  27. #27

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    Thanks again Dave. Found a lot of good info there.
    Also saw that Cardifkid found that a set of BBK 40200 block hugger headers were a perfect fit for his LS3 in his '33.
    I just bought them for mine.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Monday is a holiday so it looks like I won't have any answers until Tuesday.
    My wiring harness and ECU's are suppose to be here on Wednesday.
    I need to find a shifter for this tranny, what did you guys use on a 4L60E or 4L65E tranny?
    I have spoken with Lokar and they have an electronic shifter coming out hopefully by the end of January.

  29. #29
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    More info about low mount AC. Post 153 has pics of a home made bracket that allows a Sanden compressor to easily clear the frame. I don't see how the compressor could be moved much closer to the balancer, than the Alan Grove bracket, since they both use the same mounting bolts locations on the block and I know that my compressor almost touches one of those mounting bolt heads.

    http://www.ffcars.com/forums/120-fac...t56-build.html

    One down side to this home made bracket is it has no belt tensioner. It looks like a lot of hours of work. I can't imagine cutting 3/16" steel with a reciprocating saw. Abrasive cutoff blades or a plasma cutter are both faster. I bought a 10" abrasive chop saw from Harbor Freight for this type of work and I also used my 4" hand held grinder with thin cutoff wheels. A drill press is a must and so is welding equipment.

    You have to watch the clocking angle of the lower compressor fitting. If it's rotated too low, oil will pour out of the opening. That means it won't work in that position.

    My link to the CTS accessory drive seems to have been dropped from my earlier post. It's GM part number 19299070.

    https://paceperformance.com/i-648540...6-engines.html

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Thanks again Dave. Found a lot of good info there.
    Also saw that Cardifkid found that a set of BBK 40200 block hugger headers were a perfect fit for his LS3 in his '33.
    I just bought them for mine.
    Let us know about those headers. I haven't ordered mine yet. I thought you had to have custom down pipes built for the BBK's.

  31. #31
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    Yes U well need custom made down pipes with BBK headers the same with stock cast iron headers the come on the LS3
    good mews is FFR reimbursed me the cost $385.00

  32. #32
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    I'm planning to use the Hooker 8501-4hkr titanium ceramic coated manifolds. They will work with the FF down pipes.

  33. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    I have spoken with Lokar and they have an electronic shifter coming out hopefully by the end of January.
    Great, even if they are a few months late I doubt I'll be ready for it.
    Just trying to get everything I need on order before I really need it.

  34. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by Smoking Joe View Post
    Yes U well need custom made down pipes with BBK headers the same with stock cast iron headers the come on the LS3
    good mews is FFR reimbursed me the cost $385.00
    Thanks for that bit of info.

    Those Hookers look pretty much like the manifolds that came on my LS3.
    The BBK's will be here in a few days.
    Last edited by JimLev; 01-02-2018 at 10:02 PM.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Monday is a holiday so it looks like I won't have any answers until Tuesday.
    My wiring harness and ECU's are suppose to be here on Wednesday.
    I need to find a shifter for this tranny, what did you guys use on a 4L60E or 4L65E tranny?
    I special ordered the new Lokar Electronic Sport Shifter from Jegs today. Travis at Lokar was a tremendous help.I will let you know how it works out.

  36. #36

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    Got any links so I can read about it, see pics???

  37. #37
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    http://www.lokar.com/assets/instruct...de-Shifter.pdf

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-ess64l60elp

    The GM trans controller is set up for electronic shifting. I have two switches mounted on my console, within easy reach. On switch turns on the electronic shift mode and a on-off-on intermittent switch causes up or down shifts, with the trans in D or OD. There is no way to electronically shift anything but gears 1-4 and you must be careful with down shifts. A production car has protection against an engine-blowing accidental downshift, but this controller does not. I haven't used mine much, but it seemed like there was a big lag between pushing the switch and the actual shift. The other alternative is a ratchet shifter that only allows one gear up or down per shift.

    Here's a couple of pics of the Alan grove low mount AC. The compressor position is fixed.



    Last edited by DaveS53; 01-04-2018 at 10:27 AM.

  38. #38

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    Dave, thanks again for all the info.
    I remember seeing that shifter last year so is that one not the new one that Smokin Joe was talking about?

    HVACMAN, is this the one you ordered?
    www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-ess64l60elp/overview/

    All my missing parts (9 boxes) showed up yesterday, cables, ECU's, MAF, O2 sensors, torque converter, tranny install parts, etc. as well as all the Clico clips and tool. It's Christmas all over again.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Dave, thanks again for all the info.
    I remember seeing that shifter last year so is that one not the new one that Smokin Joe was talking about?

    HVACMAN, is this the one you ordered?
    www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-ess64l60elp/overview/

    All my missing parts (9 boxes) showed up yesterday, cables, ECU's, MAF, O2 sensors, torque converter, tranny install parts, etc. as well as all the Clico clips and tool. It's Christmas all over again.
    The one I ordered is ESS64L60EHM. According to Travis at Lokar it is a new part number. I had to call JEG's and they called Lokar to drop ship direct to me. As it turned out it took two days to get it done.

  40. #40

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    HVACMAN, thanks for the p/n.
    I spread out the wiring harness, didn't think it would have so many connectors. Will need to see if some aren't used.
    The BBK headers arrived today, they are ceramic coated on the inside and outside, not exactly tuned length like their write up said. Have to be better that the GM log manifold. They do look better. Here are some pics.

    DSCN1364.JPG

    DSCN1365.JPG

    DSCN1366.JPG

    DSCN1367.JPG
    Last edited by JimLev; 01-05-2018 at 08:48 PM.

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