JimLev's Build

[AJT '33]

Hey Jim, here are the pics of the third brake light.
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I'll get you some more when we put the hard top back on.

[JimLev]

Thanks for the pics. I think I found part of the problem.
When the trunk is closed the seal keeps the trunk lid even with the body.
When I open the trunk the middle of the front edge bows down about 1/4" so it hits the 3rd light.

[shmelty]

Tim Whittacker sells a piece to brace that area.
http://www.kootenaivalleycustoms.com/Products.php
koot.jpg

[JimLev]

Shmelty, hard to tell from the pic, does that part attach at the top forward part of the trunk lid?
I thought it was for the bottom, guess I'm wrong?

[FF33rod]

I have this piece as well, works great. Before I put it in there was some sag in this area. Once I installed it I can adjust the body to be the same height as the trunk lid when it's closed.
It attaches between the top of the frame in the trunk and the body (not the lid) in the middle of the trunk opening (by the gas tank not the lower rear). Tim has another piece that goes along the rear of the body to stiffen up the trunk opening where the latch goes.

Steve

[JimLev]

OK, thanks to both of you, now I understand where it attaches too.

[JimLev]

Thanks again guys. I didn't want to wait for Tim's nice bracket to be shipped, needed to get a move on to get this car at least registered by this summer.
I had some 16ga stainless left over from workbench tops that I used to make 3 L-brackets. I need to do some trimming to have the edge of the bracket even with the edge of the body.
One bracket in the center with the other 2 about 12" either side. This pulled the rear down at least 1/4". The trunk is now even with the back and clears my 3rd brake light.

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[JimLev]

I bought Tim W's bump steer kit, it came today. It is well made.
NAZ, I will use a big washer on top, thanks for that bit of info.
Nice to see it has dust boots too.

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I've slowly been doing body work.
Got all the high and low spots in the trunk done.

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Still need to get outside to flip the roof over to fix the front and rear surfaces where they mount to the body.
It's just been a bit too windy to work outside.

[TxMike64]

I bought Tim W's bump steer kit...
DSCN4172.JPG.

Tim needs to use your picture on his website - these look much nicer than the ones on his website!

[JimLev]

Tim needs to use your picture on his website - these look much nicer than the ones on his website!

I told him that and sent pics to him.

Still working on the roof. I'm enlarging the front and rear windshield openings to increase visibility (NAZ, thanks for the tip).
If any of you have done this what did you use for a blade? This fiberglass chews up blades like it was candy. I went thru 4 blades just doing the front.

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Bottom cut, filled all the voids
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The inner and outer sides aren't bonded together that will. The bottom edge was the worse.

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[FF33rod]

Yeah, unfortunately those voids are everywhere. Also have varying thicknesses where 2 panels are bonded. Part of the "fun" right?

what dimension are you trimming back to? asking for a friend

Steve

[JimLev]

I'm leaving 1/2" on for the glass to attach to. I'm starting the rear now, not as easy to do as the front.

[progmgr1]

Another tip from Tim W.: use a cutting disk on a Dremel or similar tool to trim the fiberglass parts. I did that when cutting up my trunk lid and it worked well. It was easy to cut a smooth straight line and to follow a gentle curve. For sharper curves I just rough cut the curve with the disk and then ground / sanded to final size or used a Dremel router bit if I just needed a slot.

Ditto on the appearance of Tim's bump steer kit. Tim changed machine shops a few years back and I think that the workmanship improved, and the photo on his website is very old.

Keith HR #894

[JimLev]

Thanks Keith. I did think about using my angle grinder but thought it would clog up the disc. I also have a Drumel so I'll use both tomorrow. I tried to use my router, it worked but was very slow and hard to keep a straight line, only got 24" done.

[FF33rod]

I've used this dremel wheel to trim some of the fiberglass parts, it's worked well. https://www.dremel.com/en_US/product...-shaping-wheel
I've never seen this other one but it might be even better.... https://www.dremel.com/en_US/product...-shaping-wheel

Steve

[JimLev]

Steve, I've got that Dremel cutting/shaping wheel that's in the first link. Forgot all about that one.
Thanks, I'll use it.

[progmgr1]

I used this E Z Lock kit that I got on Amazon (back when the price was ~$15): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The abrasive disks labeled for plastics worked well, but the thin cut and disks for metal seemed to work the same. The only issue was that I had to be careful when trying to cut a curve. If I forced the angle too much the disk would bind in the slot and break, and then the partial disk would kick out of the work and bend the shaft. Maybe the cutter you linked will be more robust. I have something similar that was originally for wood, but may work on fiberglass as well. I'll have to try that next time...
Keith

[JimLev]

Got it done, with the Dremel disc the fiberglass cut like it was going thru butter, well almost. This is the one I used. https://www.dremel.com/en_US/product...-shaping-wheel
For the corners I made pie cuts. My disc was only 1 1/4" diameter so it was a little easier to do the corners.
I did mess up one part when I used the router yesterday but it's an easy fix.
Thanks for the info again guys.

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[JimLev]

I've been working on this train wreck of a roof for the last 2+ weeks, still not done but I'm getting there.
Got tired of filling, sanding, priming, etc. Today I put the roof back on the body to mark the holes to mount it to the body.
I followed NAZ's info on using expanding rivnuts with a washer behind them as the body isn't that thick.
I used a forstner bit to keep the head even with the body.

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The rivet gun that came with the kit will work if you remove the threaded in piece.

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Now I need to fix the part of the roof that meets the body.

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[Carter3]

Good luck with the top!

I'm at the same spot with a top that looks about the same. I've been looking for the motivation to fix what should have never been shipped. This is one of the areas that I feel FFR could really use some help with their QC.

[JimLev]

I hear ya Carter. One would think for the $$$ we shelled out the body quality would be better.
So after 3 days of filling, sanding, putting the top on, taking it off way too many times I'm close to done with the back.
Just need to touch up a few areas and then move on to the front. At least it's shorter in length so it won't take as long.
I don't have the seal in it yet.

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[e36m3]

Looks good, what did you use to bond the inner and outer parts of the roof together?

[JimLev]

The roof is just sitting on the body. It won't be bonded, just bolted down, with the gasket in between the two parts.
I'm still working on the front lip that will sit on the cowl and fitting the new seats in.

[e36m3]

Hi Jim,
Thanks for the response, but I should have been more specific with my question since I was looking at post that was from a month ago.
I was referring to this picture. How did you improve the bonding between layers?

2020-05-26_17-21-50.jpg

Thanks,
Andy

[JimLev]

I've been using USC Duraglas, it has fiberglas fillers in it. Seems to be stronger than Rage Gold that I also use.
For bigger holes I use fiberglass cloth and resin.
I like your sig, e36m3. I guess I could have been e39540sport.

[e36m3]

I've been using USC Duraglas, it has fiberglas fillers in it. Seems to be stronger than Rage Gold that I also use.
For bigger holes I use fiberglass cloth and resin.
I like your sig, e36m3. I guess I could have been e39540sport.

I've had my 95 M3 for 16 years. Your E39 540 sport in my opinion is the best 5 series BMW will ever build.

[JimLev]

Thanks e36m3, yours is a classic one too. I friend of mine had one, we would rip up the roads occasionally. My 540 is a 6 speed with lots of nitrous and an M5 diff.

So after 5 days of working on my new seats they are installed.
Had to modify the mounting brackets, took the seats apart to clean them and install heating pads in the bottom and back.
These are from a Mazda Miata. I swapped them with a guy that had them in a Cobra.

FFR seats and the Miata seat.
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Miata seats, back reclines, has a storage pocket, and has slides on the bottom.
Bad thing is each seat weighs 20 lbs more than the FF seat, but they are more comfortable.
DSCN4211.JPG

[PhilO]

Love those seats. Just found factory five a couple months ago but love the thought of eventually building one. Jim, I live in Rio Rancho about 15 minutes from placitas. If you ever need a couple extra hands let me know, would love to see your 33 and am willing to help if you need it.

[JimLev]

Phil, welcome to the forum.
I'll get in touch with you soon.
There is another guy that lives in RR that is building an 818.

[BC Huselton]

Thanks e36m3, yours is a classic one too. I friend of mine had one, we would rip up the roads occasionally. My 540 is a 6 speed with lots of nitrous and an M5 diff.

So after 5 days of working on my new seats they are installed.
Had to modify the mounting brackets, took the seats apart to clean them and install heating pads in the bottom and back.
These are from a Mazda Miata. I swapped them with a guy that had them in a Cobra.

FFR seats and the Miata seat.
DSCN4208.JPG

Miata seats, back reclines, has a storage pocket, and has slides on the bottom.
Bad thing is each seat weighs 20 lbs more than the FF seat, but they are more comfortable.
DSCN4211.JPG

Jim what is the base measurement of the Miata seats? is it < 19" Thanks, BC

[JimLev]

BC, the widest part of the seat bottom is 19 1/4".
My seats are raised about 4" off the floor and I do have a console that sits on top of the tranny tunnel cover.
They worked in my favor to install these slightly wider (bottom part) seats. The tops of the seat are narrower than the FF seats.

I bought leather/vinyl cleaner and dye from www.autoleatherdye.com to touch up a few of the worn spots.
Before
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After
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[BC Huselton]

BC, the widest part of the seat bottom is 19 1/4".
My seats are raised about 4" off the floor and I do have a console that sits on top of the tranny tunnel cover.
They worked in my favor to install these slightly wider (bottom part) seats. The tops of the seat are narrower than the FF seats.

I bought leather/vinyl cleaner and dye from www.autoleatherdye.com to touch up a few of the worn spots.
Before
Dscn4213.jpg

After
Dscn4214.jpg

Jim thanks. I am planning on reducing the size of the tunnel by 1 inch. Right now it is 5.5" down to 4.5" w/ Drive shaft @ 3"
Doing this so I can fit Sparco R100 seats.

Any reason to be concerned about the spacing for the Drive Shaft? I am adding another safety strap forward of the stock strap and reducing the width of the current strap. Any other readers have any cautions for me before I cut and weld? Thanks, BC

[JimLev]

I don't know the dimensions of your Sparco seat, making the tunnel and the driveshaft cover smaller should help.

[JimLev]

Still working on the roof, specifically the front below where the windshield fiberglass meets the cowl.
I have the contour pretty close to matching the cowl. But need to ask some of you about where the A pillar meets the body and door.
The drivers side has a 1/2" gap to the door. the pass side only has an 1/8" gap to the door.
Start filling the drivers side, trim the pass side, or both?
The beltline on the doors match to the body.

Drivers side gap.
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Pass side gap.
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[AJT '33]

Still working on the roof, specifically the front below where the windshield fiberglass meets the cowl.
I have the contour pretty close to matching the cowl. But need to ask some of you about where the A pillar meets the body and door.
The drivers side has a 1/2" gap to the door. the pass side only has an 1/8" gap to the door.
Start filling the drivers side, trim the pass side, or both?
The beltline on the doors match to the body.

Drivers side gap.
DSCN4235.JPG

Pass side gap.
DSCN4234.JPG

Hey Jim, put in the seal for the hard top temporarily with some tape and see how it looks, the seal can make up a portion of the gap. Then you only fill the gapped area as much as is needed. Remember don't fill with Bondo more than an 1/8-3/16" max, from your pics I believe your seal will fill the balance of the gap fine. Here is a few pics of my filling in that area.

If you have a removable hard top and windshield, then fit the windshield to fit the best (which may mean you need to add to the body because you cant adjust the windshield) and then work your gap for the hard top by working the base of the hard top to the body. A trick I used, to see how much real gap there is, I laid 2 layers of wax paper where the hard top contacts the body, then I mixed up some putty and placed a wad under the lip of the hard top and then laid it down and allowed it to set. Lift it up and you can see how much you added and the perfect fit is there.

Here are some pics of my seal and the gaps, not even but close, I should have paid more attention in pre-fitting the seal before finalizing, lesson learned.

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[JimLev]

Thanks for the pics and info AJT. I was unaware that the bulb seal would stick out that much. That would help hide some imperfections.
I have been doing just what you said to the front and back of the roof to get it to match the cowl contour.
3/16” would be more than enough for the drivers side A-pillar.
Thanks again for your help, body work is not something I enjoy doing.

[JimLev]

After looking and measuring both sides the big gap between A-pillar and the door on the drivers side is due to the the front top part of the door being too low.
I guess I’ll add some fiberglass to the top of the door to raise its height.

[JimLev]

Almost done with the A-pillars.
Every part that touched the body needed fixing.

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[RoadRacer]

looks good though!

[NAZ]

Jim, the fit on your A pillars looks very good. The biggest struggle I had with body work centered around the asymmetrical shape of that top (exacerbated by the crooked body). I mounted mine permanent (to meet NHRA requirements) which I think made it easier to deal with but understand that most will want the removal option. The whole asymmetrical body thing plus the fiberglass shrinking & moving (while curing??) caused a great deal of heartburn during my build. These are small cars and trying to fit a NHRA style roll cage inside that warped body was a real challenge. If memory serves, I found that body to be nearly 3/4" off from left to right in some areas and I just couldn't see building a crooked chassis to match a crooked body, that's just not right.

Your body work is exemplary and once the car is painted and looking great you'll forget all about the struggles getting it there. OK, maybe not forget totally but it won't seem so bad once you're enjoying how good it looks and know that you created it.