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Thread: JimLev's Build

  1. #81
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    The diff is in. I ground down the edges of the bushings to adjust the spacing to match the front diff holes.
    Took all of 30 min to do everything. I spent pretty much the whole day trying to get that diff to bolt in.
    My son came over last night as I wanted to get the car rolling and on the lift, big night last night! He told me that since we drilled out the front holes he just reamed the diff holes on each side a bit and when we tried the second time he was able to tap it in without issue so sort of what Tony suggested. Definitely an improvement FFR should make for those future builders.

  2. #82
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    Wish I had thought of grinding a little off the bushings first. That would have saved me a lot of time.
    Got all of the rear suspension installed tonight, will do the rotors, calipers, and brake lines tomorrow.
    DSCN1510.JPG

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    I had some trouble getting the last spacer for the top Koni mount into the boxed in mounting point. Not a lot of room.
    I then used some super glue to hold the spacers to the top mount, worked out great.

    DSCN1514.JPG

  3. #83
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
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    Just a quick word of advice Jim. Install the engine wiring harness on the engine before you install the engine in the car. I learned this lesson the hard way.
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

  4. #84
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    Thanks for the heads up Hvacman.
    I've got the rear done, waiting for the missing front suspension arms to show up sometime next week, I hope.
    I need to make some room in the garage to take the body off the frame. Need to start work on the other parts of the car so I can unpack more boxes.

    DSCN1515.JPG

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    Had a few friends show up today with a present for the garage.
    Just had to put it to good use.

    DSCN1518.JPG

  5. #85
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    Been a while since I updated this.
    The brakes are all in and plumbed to the master cylinders.
    Got the engine/tranny and driveshaft (correct length) installed this last weekend.
    I'm working on the wiring now. The LS3 has an oil level/temp sensor in the side of the oil pan, has anyone ever hooked it up?
    HVACMAN, I was in a hurry and didn't connect the engine wiring before I put the engine in, ugh. Getting that fat cable up between the frame and the back of the engine was a royal PITA.

    I was looking at the 2 power distribution (fuse panels) trying to figure out where to mount the big GM box.
    Looking inside it there is plenty of empty slots. I'm thinking maybe move all of the FFR circuits into the GM box. Will look into this more before I do anything.
    Another FedEx shipment from FFR is coming tomorrow.

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  6. #86
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    Got to spend most of the day in the garage.
    I bought an ICT alt mount and modified it slightly to fit my alt down low.
    Alignment looks good, will know when I get the belt and tensioner pulley next week.
    It's easy to adjust if I need to.

    Then started working on the supplied FFR tranny mount. Added some steel between the tranny and the mount, drilled a few holes, looks pretty good.
    Haven't checked the angle yet, if it's off I can cut the supplied spacers.

    Working on the wiring and exhaust will be next.
    The BBK headers I bought will not mate up to the FFR front pipes, the angle is wrong, will need to either modify them of make new ones.

    Wallace, thanks for the info on Replicaparts. Got his fan shroud today.
    DaveS53, bought the DirtyDingo low side A/C mount parts yesterday, thanks for that info.

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    Last edited by JimLev; 03-30-2018 at 08:51 PM. Reason: Added info

  7. #87
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    My DirtyDingo AC parts came in early, nice free Priority shipping from them.
    To make it fit the front of the top bracket needed to be trimmed to keep it from hitting the top suspension bushing, same for the top front AC compressor ear.

    DSCN1596.JPG

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    I now have a little less than 1/4" clearance, which should be OK, if not I'll modify the top bracket and drill a hole lower in the ear.

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    The AC belt and main idler pulley will be here tomorrow.

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    Started connecting the exhaust pieces last night......only 9 more boxes of parts to go.
    Still waiting for the steering column and the fuel regulator.

    DSCN1611.JPG

    Update....after looking at the compressor tubing connections I'm going to drill new mounting holes in the top bracket to swing the compressor up a little more.
    Last edited by JimLev; 04-01-2018 at 11:17 PM. Reason: More info

  8. #88
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    Got the Vintage Air box mounted as well as the Ididit steering column.
    Next will be to install the Unisteer motor up on the firewall so it won't be below the oil pan.

    DSCN1790.JPG

  9. #89
    Consummate Learner TxMike64's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Next will be to install the Unisteer motor up on the firewall so it won't be below the oil pan.
    So are you mounting the Unisteer unit on the firewall (engine side) or under the dash?
    I'd like to see lots of picture of this...

  10. #90
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Got the Vintage Air box mounted as well as the Ididit steering column.
    Next will be to install the Unisteer motor up on the firewall so it won't be below the oil pan.

    DSCN1790.JPG
    What will you use for the recommended 10 degree shim between the motor and firewall?
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

  11. #91
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    Yes, on the engine side of the firewall. I'll post pics.
    I've ordered a few 1/4" aluminum plates. One plate will be mounted directly to the Unisteer with a hinge at the bottom.
    The other side of the hinge will bolt to the firewall so I can figure out what angle works best.
    The sides of the plate will then have brackets (? still thinking what will work best) to attach it to the firewall.

  12. #92
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Yes, on the engine side of the firewall. I'll post pics.
    I've ordered a few 1/4" aluminum plates. One plate will be mounted directly to the Unisteer with a hinge at the bottom.
    The other side of the hinge will bolt to the firewall so I can figure out what angle works best.
    The sides of the plate will then have brackets (? still thinking what will work best) to attach it to the firewall.
    I can't wait to see how this works. I have been considering changing the oil pan to allow the PS motor to rotate up. This may be a better option and solve two issues. It would also allow the module to be mounted in the cabin without extending the harnesses. Please post a lot of pictures.
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

  13. #93
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    No problem, I'll post pics. I'm doing this for 3 reasons, didn't want the PS motor hanging down, didn't want to buy a different oil pan, and I wanted the module inside the car.
    It will probably take me a week before it's done, I won't forget the pics.

  14. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Yes, on the engine side of the firewall. I'll post pics.
    I've ordered a few 1/4" aluminum plates. One plate will be mounted directly to the Unisteer with a hinge at the bottom.
    The other side of the hinge will bolt to the firewall so I can figure out what angle works best.
    The sides of the plate will then have brackets (? still thinking what will work best) to attach it to the firewall.
    Jim
    A few comments from what I recall on my firewall mounted Uni-steer PS.
    IIRC I moved it down and inboard from the original FF firewall bearing location so the PS motor cleared the chassis
    tubes and the inboard shaft still cleared the pedal arms. Be careful not to pull the PS motor too far into the engine
    bay with your plate and hinge mount. The U-joints on the shaft between the column and Unisteer will need a much
    bigger area to swing in if they are penetrating the firewall instead of staying inside the cockpit. When you get it sorted
    out ditch the hinge and fold up a 1 piece plate mount for a clean look. Lovin your idea so keep the pictures coming.
    Dale
    Last edited by myjones; 04-14-2018 at 07:19 AM.

  15. #95
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    Thanks for the info Dale. I'm thinking about having 1/2 of the U joint going thru the firewall.
    My aluminum plates came in today, I'll probably be starting the Unisteer this weekend.

    Today I decided to not frustrate myself trying to figure out how to stuff 10 lbs of cables/wires into a 5 lb space so I moved on to the fuel system. Wanted to actually accomplish something.
    I bought the FFR EFI fuel system. It has the pump in the tank, not external as I seen on some of the other builds.
    Got the lines up to the engine and the vent to the charcoal canister, just need to put the fuel sender in, will do that tomorrow and see about connecting the charcoal purge to the engine.

    DSCN1798.JPG

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  16. #96
    EFI Rules and Carbs Drool Arrowhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    I bought the FFR EFI fuel system. It has the pump in the tank, not external as I seen on some of the other builds.
    Well that's something new. And people say FFR doesn't update their kits.

  17. #97
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    Well the tank still is a POS.
    I installed the level sensor this morning, will need to check the tank for leaks soon.
    Looking into the tank there is a pan that the fuel pump sock sits in. The sides of the pan look to be about 1.5" above the bottom of the tank.
    I could be wrong (hope I am) but unless there are a few holes on the sides of the pan you'll need to have 3-4 gallons of fuel in the tank to get the pan filled up. Also you could run out of gas in the pan while there is still a few gallons in the tank.
    I wish I had taken pic of the pan before I gooped up the O-ring with sealant before putting the pump in the tank.
    Can one of you look into your FFR tank to see if the pan has any holes in its sides?
    Last edited by JimLev; 05-07-2020 at 01:32 PM. Reason: Corrected error.

  18. #98
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    My tank is sealed up, but yes you have to have a couple of gallons in the tank before anything gets picked up.I did have to releave the side of one of the truck hinge arms so that it did not rub on the side of the tank

  19. #99
    Consummate Learner TxMike64's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    ...I bought the FFR EFI fuel system. It has the pump in the tank, not external as I seen on some of the other builds.

    DSCN1798.JPG
    I've wondered what the "FFR EFI Fuel System" included. I do like that it's an in-tank pump, as the pump will run cooler, longer, and much quieter.

    FFR EFI Kit.jpg

    But $550 !?!? I wonder if that is an FFR specific cage (doubtful) and if it is universal or specific to some OEM application. I wish I could see the numbers on the side of that pump to know what the specs of that particular pump are.
    -- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage
    Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread

  20. #100
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    Mike, I remember seeing "Ford" marked on something. The box the fuel pump bracket assy came in said "Taiwan 80280 Factory 5" on it.
    Your in luck, I wrote the pump info in the manual. Walbro GSS340, 28517-1. It's suppose to be a 255 LPH pump.

    The EFI fuel system comes with the pump and bracket assy, regulator, gauge, nice braided hoses with connectors installed to connect from the regulator (AN6) to the fuel filter and reg to the (AN4) fuel return, charcoal canister, also from the regulator (AN6) to the fuel rail as well as hardware.

    Funny thing is that FFR still sends parts for the fuel system that I don't need, pump bracket for the external pump, solid lines and fittings for the supply and return, etc.

    I purchased a lot of options just before the end of last year when almost all of them were discounted 50%.
    Last edited by JimLev; 04-21-2018 at 02:01 PM. Reason: Correct Walbro #, thanks TxMike

  21. #101
    Consummate Learner TxMike64's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    ...Walbro CSS340 (GSS340 edit)... ...The EFI fuel system comes with the pump and bracket assy, regulator, gauge, nice braided hoses with connectors installed to connect from the regulator (AN6) to the fuel filter and reg to the (AN4) fuel return, charcoal canister, also from the regulator (AN6) to the fuel rail as well as hardware.
    Well, for that pump, the cage, and all the components and hardware -- that's not a bad deal!

    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    I purchased a lot of options just before the end of last year when almost all of them were discounted 50%.
    And that makes it a GREAT deal!
    -- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage
    Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread

  22. #102
    Consummate Learner TxMike64's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    ...the FFR EFI fuel system
    DSCN1798.JPG
    Look's awfully familiar:
    fuel pump asm.jpg
    That's a later Fox Body pump cage.
    Last edited by TxMike64; 04-20-2018 at 10:11 AM.
    -- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage
    Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread

  23. #103
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    Your attachment says it's invalid.
    I'll dig out the other bracket (no pump) they sent me, maybe you can ID it too.

  24. #104
    Consummate Learner TxMike64's Avatar
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    The image should come up now (had to edit to remove a URL).
    -- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage
    Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread

  25. #105
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    Yup, I can see it.
    Here is the other bracket assy for the external fuel pump FFR sent me. Any idea what year Mustang(??) this is used for?

    DSCN1807.JPG

  26. #106
    Consummate Learner TxMike64's Avatar
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    Yeah, it's the same - like 91-93 Mustang.

    For those running AN lines from tank to an external pump to rails/carb, LMR sells (I'm sure others do to) a pickup tube with AN connections.
    Fuel-Pump-Pickup-For-Aftermarket-Fuel-System

    It makes sense to me that FFR would use Mustang components - this is what the buisiness was built around: building Cobra Replicas using Fox Mustang donors. You could just buy a replacement pump and cage for like $80+/- to replace the pick-up/external pump setup that the FFR33 comes with. BUT like I said above, you're not getting a 255lph Walbro pump or ALL that other hardware! $275 is cheap for all that!
    -- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage
    Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread

  27. #107
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    Interesting that they sent all of the carb throttle cable parts as well as the gas pedal too, they knew I was getting the LS drive by wire setup and wouldn't need them. One would think they could keep those parts and save some $$$.

  28. #108
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    So a 87-93 fox mustang fuel pickup unit fits into the FFR tank with ring and all?

    That may open up my possibilities for when I redo my fuel system for the blower. Current setup that came with motor won’t be enough.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  29. #109
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    Svt, yes the mounting ring is the same. The OAL is just shy of the height of the tank. It came with o-rings and plastic quick disconnect fittings.

  30. #110
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    Got the Unisteer installed today, mounted to the engine side of the footbox aluminum.
    I still need to firmly mount the 4 x 4 plate. No binding!
    I'll need to add some aluminum insulation between the header and the Unisteer.

    Dscn1808.jpg

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    Plate angle is ~22°
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    Last edited by JimLev; 04-21-2018 at 06:00 PM.

  31. #111
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    Thanks Jim! Will look into that when I change from the temp stuff I’m doing now to support the whipple.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  32. #112
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    Jim
    Very tidy looking installation.
    I turned the motor up on mine for a bit more clearance from the hot exhaust, just different strokes for different motor layout.
    Now you can move the module inside with no issues from the short pigtail and keep it cooler as well.
    I moved down and inboard jumping to just the other side of that tube shown by the pedal shot. The reason for that was the
    joint angle down at that carrier bearing. By adding more angle at the firewall you relieved that a little but it still looks pretty
    tight so you might want to look it over once more for clearance at all rotation angles. Well done.
    Dale

  33. #113
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    Dale,
    It seems to be A-OK. Nice and smooth operation.
    I finished mounting the plate without the hinge.
    The firewall is threaded and all the nuts have Loctite on them.
    Just need to Loctite all the set screws on the shafts tomorrow.

    DSCN1818.JPG

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    DSCN1820.JPG

    I'm postponing the wiring until I get the exhaust done, then I can rivet the floor in and move on to the wiring.

  34. #114
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    Jim, Nice execution on the unisteer! Are you putting some kind of "cup" on the inside to seal the firewall? I can't do that as my clutch pedal will hit at the bottom of travel unless I move the pedal back.

  35. #115
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    Thanks. Yes, I intend on enclosing that hole with something(?). Gotta keep the heat out.
    Probably would be easier to do it from the 4 sides of the aluminum plate to the foot box than try to do it around the u-joint.

  36. #116
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    Never got to the wiring yesterday, got a few packages from FedEx and decided to do the easy stuff.

    The 4L65e tranny has quick disconnect fittings that I wanted to change to 6AN fittings. After ordering the wrong ones I found the correct ones from Jeg's, 6AN to -6 ORB (o-ring boss) p/n 110160.
    The part that screws into the tranny is a 9/16-18 thread, they come with O-rings.
    Other trannys use a different fitting, 6AN -1/4" NPSM or 6AN-1/4" pipe.
    I made up the braided lines for the tranny to the radiator.

    DSCN1828.JPG

    DSCN1829.JPG

    Also found some seat slides at 4WD.com

    DSCN1831.JPG
    Last edited by JimLev; 04-25-2018 at 06:28 PM.

  37. #117
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Never got to the wiring yesterday, got a few packages from FedEx and decided to do the easy stuff.

    The 4L65e tranny has quick disconnect fittings that I wanted to change to 6AN fittings. After ordering the wrong ones I found the correct ones from Jeg's, 6AN to -6 ORB (o-ring boss) p/n 110160.
    The part that screws into the tranny is a 9/16-18 thread, they come with O-rings.
    Other trannys use a different fitting, 6AN -1/4" NPSM or 6AN-1/4" pipe.
    I made up the braided lines for the tranny to the radiator.

    DSCN1828.JPG

    DSCN1829.JPG

    Also found some seat slides at 4WD.com

    DSCN1831.JPG
    I wish I had known you were looking for the transmission AN fittings. I could have given you the part numbers. Apparently GM has used several different sizes and threads in recent years.
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

  38. #118
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    Andy, next time I need info I'll look you up. They weren't that expensive at all.
    I did find a hydraulic supply company in Denver that also had them for $2.50 each, however the shipping was $15.
    Maybe worth stopping in there next time I'm in Denver an stocking up.

    The Denver company is www.hydraulichoses.com
    Last edited by JimLev; 04-27-2018 at 09:45 AM. Reason: Added info

  39. #119
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    Unisteer install is awesome.

  40. #120
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    Nov 2017
    Location
    Placitas, NM
    Posts
    1,443
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks wrp.

    Haven't had much spare time in the last week to work on the car.
    I started to do the exhaust which will require cutting and welding due to the BBK headers not aligning with the FFR pipes. I worked on that for a while and then decided to go back to the electrical.
    I stripped off the corrugated covering which made running the cables much easier. I'll put some of it back on later. Also have a few rolls of automotive cloth tape that I'll use too.
    Andy, I decided to move my FF fuse box to the left side like you did. Keep staying ahead of me so I can pick up some tips from your build.

    DSCN1887.JPG

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    UPS came today with a very early b-day present.
    I treated myself to another tool that I will probably only use on this car.
    With 18 connections to crimp it will pay for itself.

    DSCN1886.JPG

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