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Thread: First FFR Build - Gen 3 Coupe

  1. #1
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    First FFR Build - Gen 3 Coupe

    After following FFR for the past 20+ years, I finally took the plunge and ordered a coupe kit yesterday. It'll be mostly used for autocross, some occasional road course and a few street miles in between.

    Current projected ship date is March 3rd for the car. I went with the 3-link combo, but I haven't decided on which coil-overs just yet. I'll most likely end up with Wilwood 14" front and 13" rear brake combo. I know it'll hurt some feelings but it's getting an LS1/T56 combo I have laying around the shop. It'll be around 575 hp at the flywheel and going with a flex fuel setup so I can run pump or E85. I'll be doing the work myself, with some occasional help from friends. The goal is to have the car on course, with or without paint, by early September for testing. I have a couple events I really want to run before the end of the year.

    I know we have some veterans in here. What kind of advice do you have for a first timer?

  2. #2
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    Sounds like a great combo and should be a blast to drive. My advice is this: whatever you think it's going to cost and however long you think it will take to build -- double it. With the non-standard drivetrain and flex fuel mods you've detailed above you're already setting up for more work than a standard kit. Each outside the box departure you take will add significant time to your build.

    I think I read somewhere that the hot rod is supposed to take around 300-hrs to assemble -- I'm at over 3,300 and mine is not yet ready for paint. That extra time (not to mention $$) is because I drifted far from the reservation and that takes a lot of design, engineering, fabricating, testing, and rework. So if your goal is to be running that car around a bunch of cones in six-months better limit the mods.

    Good luck and have fun along the way.
    Last edited by NAZ; 12-27-2017 at 11:54 AM.

  3. #3
    I just took delivery of a Gen 3 Coupe a few weeks ago. Link to my build thread is in my sig line below. There are plenty of things for me to work on, but I am still missing some key parts. Factory Five will hit the promised date for your kit nearly 100% of the time. On that date, they will ship everything they have in stock at the time. But there will be backordered parts (they call it the Parts Order List or POL), so don't be surprised. A lot of times it's minor things that won't slow you down. But there can be some that will affect you depending on your build speed. They do a good job of shipping them when available, but don't be shy about contacting them regularly to get updates. Probably you'll have everything within a few weeks. But there can be surprises based on suppliers, etc.

    When you receive your kit, take as much time as necessary to inventory every piece. You will receive 20-30 boxes and a part-by-part listing of what's in each box. Use the listing to check off each item. I check every nut, bolt, screw, washer, etc. Also measure them as I go. If there are any discrepancies, e.g. missing, wrong, damaged, contact them immediately and they will address it. They're very good about that. Not only does the inventory confirm you have everything you paid for, it also gives you a chance to see all the parts, gain some familiarity, etc. Any that aren't real clear, look up in the manual and see what they are and how they're installed. I personally recommend leaving all the parts in the boxes they were shipped in, and using the listing to find/retrieve parts as needed. As backordered parts are received (they're on the listing too, with a zero quantity) put them in the box they were supposed to be in. Staying organized is important IMO and in the long run should save you time. Note the boxes are relatively logical regarding their contents (primary chassis parts, secondary chassis parts, electrical parts, etc.) but not necessarily in the order they will be used. Not a big deal, but some are surprised about that.

    Completely agree with NAZ's comments regarding mods. To do these relatively fast like you're describing means staying close to the standard build as delivered. Mods will take time (usually more than you think) and may have unintended consequences down the line. I personally enjoy mods and making it my very own. But definitely adds to the build time.

    I assume you know the front windshield on this kit is glued in like a regular production car. Since you're planning to drive it in gel coat initially, I assume that means you would still glue it in but then remove later for paint? No big deal, but different than a Roadster for example where the windshield is a bolt-on component. The rear hatch is one piece and hinged, so no issues there.

    If you haven't already, I'd highly recommend spending the $10 for the electronic version of the manual. You can download it immediately and read/study it a bunch before your kit arrives. That will maybe give you a little headstart. I like having the electronic version anyway. I keep it on my laptop and refer to it probably as much as the paper copy that will come with your kit. I like how I can search and find things quickly.

    Good luck, and welcome!
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-27-2017 at 02:08 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  4. #4
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    Thanks guys! I actually downloaded the manual a couple weeks ago and have read through it more than once. I also intend to keep reading it! I'm a firm believer in information overload. I'm really curious what kind of normal hangups people run into and where the manual may be lacking. It seems every project has it's "normal" issues people run into. It's always best to seek experienced advice for helpful tricks to aid in assembly, whether it's just changing the order of operations or getting something in at the right angle to make life easier.

    The LS stuff and flex fuel setup will likely be the quickest part of any of the build for me. I keep almost everything I need in stock for the engine. I already have the flex fuel sensor, pigtail, wiring, pump, lines, fittings, etc all here as well. The engine will be 347 cubic inches, 12:1 compression, CNC ported stock casting heads, hydraulic roller cam, and most likely a single plane intake. I want to keep it simple and make power up top without going overboard on low end torque and blowing the tires off. The trans is a T56 and I'll be using an 8" McCleod twin disc clutch with lightweight flywheel.

    Tire sizing is something I'm unsure about. I'm used to running much heavier cars, so tire size and pressure will be very different. How much tire can you get under these cars front and rear? I'll most likely be on a BFG G-Force Rival S for class racing, but Continental is supposed to have a new 200TW tire coming out soon that could be very competitive.

    One of the biggest pieces I'm struggling with is a paint color. Obviously it doesn't have to be decided right now but I like to be ahead of the curve. I plan everything out as far in advance as possible. I'm a blue kinda guy, however it seems most people do blue and I want it to stand out from the crowd. I really like the Jetstream Blue used on the C6 Corvettes, but it's still blue. I don't know if it would be different enough.

  5. #5
    The Gen 3 Coupe manual is similar to the several Roadster manuals I've seen/used previously. Tons of great information and detail, but then there other areas that are a little light. Partly because there are just so many variations of how these can be build and it's not practical to cover every possibility. Obviously you're not going to find much help with your engine and fuel choices. But for the actual build, front and rear suspensions are pretty complete, especially since they are very similar to other models. Lots of good detail on the new coupe sheet metal, body mounting, etc. There isn't a lot of detail regarding wiring. I'm assuming you're using the Ron Francis harness, which has its own manual. But the instructions are pretty generic and all the pictures are of the Roadster. If you're comfortable with wiring, no big deal. But if you're not (frequently cited by many as the most difficult part of the build) then it will be more challenging. I'm not far enough along to give any more specific input. I have the front suspension installed and that was all good. Waiting for parts so I can mount the IRS.

    Regarding tires, first is going to depend on the wheels you choose. With the Factory Five 17's or 18's, 275 front and 315 rear is the max that will go on those rims. The chassis/body will take bigger tires if using different rims. The Factory Five prototypes and the Snap-On build have non-Factory Five wheels, and use bigger tires. I can't be any more specific other than I've seen them in person and noted they were larger than the standards. I'm sure if you called Factory Five they could provide more details. I have the Rival S tires on my current Roadster. Like them a lot, and right now are on the short list for the Coupe. Interesting about the Continental option. I'll keep my eye on that. Used to work there and can get really good prices.

    I hear you about color. Always a big decision. I've done three red Roadsters. I'm getting a little pressure on the home front to change up with the Coupe. I'm also thinking about blue, but it would be a more modern color than the traditional blue these are typically painted. We'll see.
    Last edited by edwardb; 01-10-2018 at 06:01 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  6. #6
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    Welcome to the club Nick.

    Sounds like you have some practical wrench experience under you belt. The great people at Factory Five have put together some fantastic products and have taken on all the tough engineering stuff. We get the pleasure of assembling the components and making what "mods" suit you. Most mods are pretty simple also, unless you want to take on a total chassis or suspension re-design. Kidding. The best source of info comes in the FFR manual or the instructions from manufactures of any 3rd part components. It's not a hard project. A great build is in the detail. Take your time to do it right and enjoy the process along the way.

    If you have the time, take a drive to Columbus Ohio next summer on the third weekend in June. The Ohio Cobra Club have an amazing car show each year in London and there's alway more than a handful of FFR Coupes on display
    Last edited by Dave Howard; 12-28-2017 at 02:19 PM.

  7. #7
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nskaats View Post
    After following FFR for the past 20+ years, I finally took the plunge and ordered a coupe kit yesterday. It'll be mostly used for autocross, some occasional road course and a few street miles in between.

    Current projected ship date is March 3rd for the car. I went with the 3-link combo, but I haven't decided on which coil-overs just yet. I'll most likely end up with Wilwood 14" front and 13" rear brake combo. I know it'll hurt some feelings but it's getting an LS1/T56 combo I have laying around the shop. It'll be around 575 hp at the flywheel and going with a flex fuel setup so I can run pump or E85. I'll be doing the work myself, with some occasional help from friends. The goal is to have the car on course, with or without paint, by early September for testing. I have a couple events I really want to run before the end of the year.

    I know we have some veterans in here. What kind of advice do you have for a first timer?
    Oh geez, GoDadGo (aka Steve) will be happy as hell to have another Chevy motor in play...just be forewarned, that happy go lucky Cajun lad can talk...

    Congratulations though!

    Chris
    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

  8. #8
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cgundermann View Post
    Oh geez, GoDadGo (aka Steve) will be happy as hell to have another Chevy motor in play...just be forewarned, that happy go lucky Cajun lad can talk...

    Congratulations though!

    Chris
    Wait there's more than one oddball here that uses the wrong engine? Good to know I'm not alone!

  9. #9
    Looking forward to seeing your build. I may go in this direction as well. I need to do more research into New Jersey emissions laws for custom cars before I order my kit. But based on what I’ve been reading the GM LS3 E-Rod crate motor is 50 state emissions legal if you use the cats supplied in the kit. Looks like they sell a nice package including T-56 trans which is what I would like. Just eye balling it, I would need some different headers then modify the exhaust pipes to travel out the sides with the cats then have them connect to the side pipes.

    Not sure about engine mounts and if the trans will line up well in the frame without having to cut anything. I’d appreciate any comments in this area if you think it would require custom fabrication or it would bolt and fit right in.

    Originaly I wanted a coyote crate build but I believe that is not legal in NJ since there is no Carb # for it. The other choice is to find an old 351 or 302 block pre 1970 and have someone build an engine for me. I’d prefer to go with a modern crate engine and either the Corvette LS3 or CTS-V Supercharged LS3 both have carb numbers and may work.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by nskaats View Post
    After following FFR for the past 20+ years, I finally took the plunge and ordered a coupe kit yesterday. It'll be mostly used for autocross, some occasional road course and a few street miles in between.

    Current projected ship date is March 3rd for the car. I went with the 3-link combo, but I haven't decided on which coil-overs just yet. I'll most likely end up with Wilwood 14" front and 13" rear brake combo. I know it'll hurt some feelings but it's getting an LS1/T56 combo I have laying around the shop. It'll be around 575 hp at the flywheel and going with a flex fuel setup so I can run pump or E85. I'll be doing the work myself, with some occasional help from friends. The goal is to have the car on course, with or without paint, by early September for testing. I have a couple events I really want to run before the end of the year.

    I know we have some veterans in here. What kind of advice do you have for a first timer?
    Take a look at John George's build. With assistance from "The Traveling Builder" Mark Dougherty, John's Gen III beta Type R was built in an amazingly short amount of time. It is a street legal race car.

    I wish I had the banana bracket welded to the rear axle before we installed it in my Gen 2 Coupe. We haven't raced it and I don't think it has moved, but I wish someone told me. And you can't avoid standing out, regardless of the color you choose. Mine is Guardsman Blue/White stripes

    Enjoy your Build, Glen
    Coupe 0652 408 Windsor 510 hp TKO600-68OD 3.73 Traction-lok A/C and heat, Guardsman Blue with White stripes picked up 9/14 first start 7/10/15 go kart 8/15/15 registered, painted (body-on) 11/12/16 inspected and on the road 4/20/17

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by nskaats View Post
    I know we have some veterans in here. What kind of advice do you have for a first timer?
    1. Have a clear build plan
    2. As mentioned if you do mods understand the implications to not only what you are working on now, but also how it affects the rest of the build down the line.
    3. Think about how you are going to do things. Sometimes you will save a lot of time by really thinking things through and then executing rather then just starting on something and getting stuck.
    4. Be realistic about your abilities and color between those lines.
    5. Set completion goals for individual parts of the build.
    6. Understand next steps and and make sure to have all parts and tools needed ready to go. (I added quite a few tools)
    7. Get Gleco’s and a tool
    8. Study other people’s builds and learn from their approach and the step by step ( can learn from the gen 2 also).
    9. Stick to your build plan
    10. Stick to your build plan
    11. Stick to your build plan
    12. Stick, well you get it!!

    Welcome to the madness, hope that helps.

    John
    Making progress on the "My Coupe, my way" project.

    http://s956.photobucket.com/albums/ae46/jdcoupe1969/
    Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Fast EZ EFI
    First start Sept. 18 2013 First go kart Sept 19 2013

  12. #12
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Congratulations Fellow Dark Sider!

    Personally, I Love The Idea Of The LS With A T-56 And A 3-Link Out Back!

    Please let us know how far you have to scoot the engine forward to make it fit.

    It would be sweet if you could get the driveshaft to 13-15 inches to reduce in and out yoke movement and improve U-Joint angles.

    Also, if you move it far enough forward, then Schoenfeld IMCA Header may be a possible exhaust starting point option.

    http://www.schoenfeldheaders.com/imcaump-modified3.html

    Again, Congratulations!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 12-29-2017 at 09:32 PM.

  13. #13
    Welcome. As for advice, all I can offer is a mistake I made a few times: buying parts before I was sure that I would use them. After throwing away money a few times I now only buy parts when I'm either ready to install them or absolutely sure I will use them. Good luck and please share the progress here.

  14. #14
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jkviper View Post
    Looking forward to seeing your build. I may go in this direction as well. I need to do more research into New Jersey emissions laws for custom cars before I order my kit. But based on what Iíve been reading the GM LS3 E-Rod crate motor is 50 state emissions legal if you use the cats supplied in the kit. Looks like they sell a nice package including T-56 trans which is what I would like. Just eye balling it, I would need some different headers then modify the exhaust pipes to travel out the sides with the cats then have them connect to the side pipes.

    Not sure about engine mounts and if the trans will line up well in the frame without having to cut anything. Iíd appreciate any comments in this area if you think it would require custom fabrication or it would bolt and fit right in.

    Originaly I wanted a coyote crate build but I believe that is not legal in NJ since there is no Carb # for it. The other choice is to find an old 351 or 302 block pre 1970 and have someone build an engine for me. Iíd prefer to go with a modern crate engine and either the Corvette LS3 or CTS-V Supercharged LS3 both have carb numbers and may work.
    I've tuned a handful of cars with GM's 525 hp LS3 crate engine and I must say I'm impressed. I generally consider crate engines to be a bit of a plague to our industry, but I will say this particular piece has been very reliable and daily driveable manners while making more power than advertised. I have no doubts mounting the engine and making headers will take some fabrication, but nothing too intensive. The key is knowing your abilities and having some patience.

    As far as using the supercharged LSA crate engine, I'd probably pass on that for one of these cars. It's a great bang for the buck and it takes nothing but a cam and pulley swap to make an easy 700+ hp out of it. However, with the nature of the positive displacement blower you'll have well over 600 ft lbs of torque available at 2,500 RPM or so. Combine that with the light weight of these chassis and you have a great burnout machine that's trying to kill you at every hit of the throttle.

    Quote Originally Posted by GSides9 View Post
    I wish I had the banana bracket welded to the rear axle before we installed it in my Gen 2 Coupe. We haven't raced it and I don't think it has moved, but I wish someone told me.
    I had thought about welding that bracket. Is it a common issue for these to move? I may still have my welding fixtures for the 8.8" to keep them housing from shifting.

    Quote Originally Posted by John Dol View Post
    1. Have a clear build plan
    2. As mentioned if you do mods understand the implications to not only what you are working on now, but also how it affects the rest of the build down the line.
    3. Think about how you are going to do things. Sometimes you will save a lot of time by really thinking things through and then executing rather then just starting on something and getting stuck.
    4. Be realistic about your abilities and color between those lines.
    5. Set completion goals for individual parts of the build.
    6. Understand next steps and and make sure to have all parts and tools needed ready to go. (I added quite a few tools)
    7. Get Glecoís and a tool
    8. Study other peopleís builds and learn from their approach and the step by step ( can learn from the gen 2 also).
    9. Stick to your build plan
    10. Stick to your build plan
    11. Stick to your build plan
    12. Stick, well you get it!!

    Welcome to the madness, hope that helps.

    John
    I've been working on putting together a build plan in stages to set clear goals and avoid ordering redundant or unnecessary parts. I know I'm going to be tight on time so having a comprehensive plan will be crucial to making this happen.


    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Congratulations Fellow Dark Sider!

    Personally, I Love The Idea Of The LS With A T-56 And A 3-Link Out Back!

    Please let us know how far you have to scoot the engine forward to make it fit.

    It would be sweet if you could get the driveshaft to 13-15 inches to reduce in and out yoke movement and improve U-Joint angles.

    Also, if you move it far enough forward, then Schoenfeld IMCA Header may be a possible exhaust starting point option.

    http://www.schoenfeldheaders.com/imcaump-modified3.html

    Again, Congratulations!
    Good call on using those headers for a starting point! I never considered that but they look like they'd be a good base. I'll probably make a set of out mild steel to test fit and make changes on the cheap before replicating from stainless. I'm a bit of a stainless **** when it comes to exhaust fabrication.


    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob McCrea View Post
    Welcome. As for advice, all I can offer is a mistake I made a few times: buying parts before I was sure that I would use them. After throwing away money a few times I now only buy parts when I'm either ready to install them or absolutely sure I will use them. Good luck and please share the progress here.
    Yes sir! This is an easy mistake to make and we've all done it a million times. It's so easy to get caught up in the excitement and order things without thinking it through. I should probably print this and hang it on the car to keep myself from making this mistake again.

  15. #15
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    Today my Wiseco 12cc dome pistons, Callies Compstar rods, King bearings, GM head gaskets, Holley valve covers, ARP head and main studs, and Deatschwerks injectors showed up. I need to start a build thread soon. I also need to get this block to the machine shop to get things finished up so I can start short block assembly. I think the valve covers will give the LS a nice period correct look.

    26756906_1963699623884777_2951619616719491239_o.jpg
    26730716_1963699663884773_6617504423007421130_n.jpg
    26196250_1963699687218104_3066687006937762965_n.jpg
    26171482_1963699743884765_7977443662450474770_o.jpg
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  16. #16
    Putting an LS into Gen 2 coupe was pretty easy. I am guessing that it should be pretty easy in the Gen 3 car. If a Coyote will fit an LS will definitely fit. See the pics below showing what we did with my car's engine and transmission mounts. Might give you some ideas for the Gen 3 car. The hardest part of the LS transplant was melding the engine and chassis harness. Not hard, just took some thinking and planning. For headers I used off the shelf BBK #40200 headers for a 2010 Camaro. I just mounted them with the dumps forward and built the exhaust from there. Really easy.

    I built my car in a year with the majority of it being done in the last 7 months. Have a good plan set up and extra hands to help.

    JC

    IMG_0664.jpgIMG_0665.jpgIMG_5834.jpgIMG_5836.jpg
    Factory Five Type-65 Coupe:"Race Spec" coupe, Ordered 1/12, picked-up 5/12, roller 5/12, first start 10/12, finished 4/13
    Factory Five Roadster: Sold 12/2011.
    http://www.25tires.com

  17. #17
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    Thanks for the pics and info. I'm undecided on what I'm doing for mounts yet. I ordered my chassis uncoated for that reason. My goal should probably be to keep it simple and not get carried away with the fabrication.

    I'll have a look at those headers. I'm not opposed to starting with something simple in mild steel to work from. I'm a dealer for Stainless Works so I do intend to buy flanges and a header kit to make a set of full length headers in stainless. I may even do the complete exhaust as well if I'm feeling froggy.

    What areas did you have issues with the harness?
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  18. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by nskaats View Post
    Thanks for the pics and info. I'm undecided on what I'm doing for mounts yet. I ordered my chassis uncoated for that reason. My goal should probably be to keep it simple and not get carried away with the fabrication.

    I'll have a look at those headers. I'm not opposed to starting with something simple in mild steel to work from. I'm a dealer for Stainless Works so I do intend to buy flanges and a header kit to make a set of full length headers in stainless. I may even do the complete exhaust as well if I'm feeling froggy.

    What areas did you have issues with the harness?
    Just where to put the computer and plumb the harness (passenger foot box), and where to put the second fuse block (under dash passenger side).

    JC
    Factory Five Type-65 Coupe:"Race Spec" coupe, Ordered 1/12, picked-up 5/12, roller 5/12, first start 10/12, finished 4/13
    Factory Five Roadster: Sold 12/2011.
    http://www.25tires.com

  19. #19
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    RE: 3 link banana bracket. When you get your kit look at the bracket that is supplied. I see pics of the bracket that is welded onto the axle when you buy the complete axle and it looks like the steel is thicker than that in the clamp-on bracket. Maybe that is just an illusion and/or maybe the clamp-on part is now upgraded. I don't know, but w/ your intended use, it would be nice to know. Also look here for another way to beef up the clamp-on part.
    http://www.vpmcobras.com/
    Well heck, they don't have pictures.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  20. #20
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkrueger View Post
    Just where to put the computer and plumb the harness (passenger foot box), and where to put the second fuse block (under dash passenger side).

    JC
    Mounting the PCM is one of the big questions I had in my head. Under the dash is always a preference, but none of the aftermarket harnesses ever have enough lead. I'm not opposed to building my own harness but really like saving the time and using one from Speartech or BP. I guess inn reality the harness isn't going to have much in it since it's just running the engine, so I could extend if necessary.

    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    RE: 3 link banana bracket. When you get your kit look at the bracket that is supplied. I see pics of the bracket that is welded onto the axle when you buy the complete axle and it looks like the steel is thicker than that in the clamp-on bracket. Maybe that is just an illusion and/or maybe the clamp-on part is now upgraded. I don't know, but w/ your intended use, it would be nice to know. Also look here for another way to beef up the clamp-on part.
    http://www.vpmcobras.com/
    Well heck, they don't have pictures.
    I was planning on welding the bracket before it sees any hard driving. I'm not a fan of anything moving that isn't supposed to and I'm notoriously hard on cars on track.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  21. #21
    For headers I used off the shelf BBK #40200 headers for a 2010 Camaro. I just mounted them with the dumps forward and built the exhaust from there. Really easy.
    JC - Could you please post a couple of photos of your LS exhaust set-up on your Gen 2 Coupe? Thanks!

  22. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt K. View Post
    JC - Could you please post a couple of photos of your LS exhaust set-up on your Gen 2 Coupe? Thanks!
    IMG_1748.jpgIMG_1813.jpgIMG_3620.jpgIMG_6329.jpgIMG_6330.jpgIMG_6331.jpgIMG_6332.jpg
    Factory Five Type-65 Coupe:"Race Spec" coupe, Ordered 1/12, picked-up 5/12, roller 5/12, first start 10/12, finished 4/13
    Factory Five Roadster: Sold 12/2011.
    http://www.25tires.com

  23. #23
    Thanks again. Much Appreciated!

  24. #24
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Hebron, Ky
    Posts
    61
    It's getting close to ship date. Target completion date is tomorrow and Stewart should be picking up next week.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  25. #25
    Get ready for the fun!
    Nolan
    65 coupe Gen 3 "Phoenix" build
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...032#post297032

    818 s (with r windscreen ) 350 rwhp. Registered and street legal (SOLD)

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