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Thread: Rodney Archer's build thread

  1. #41
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    Thanks David!

    I am getting 404 errors though on your links....

  2. #42
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodneyarcher1 View Post
    Thanks David!

    I am getting 404 errors though on your links....
    Oops! Fixed, and here they are again, so you don't have to click back to the first page:

    Embedding pics:
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...tures-in-posts
    Maintaining thread titles:
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...tle-Guidelines


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  3. #43
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    So I'm getting close, my build will be ready for pick up this Saturday! Stewart will be picking it up on the 21st or 22nd and then it will crossing the country to her new home. I have completed the frame dolly and body buck and have started picking up a few tools.

    I do have a quick question though, when the body is sitting on the buck what is the height from where the wheel arches are on the buck to the bottom rails of the body (see pic)? I am trying to lower my buck a little for more clearance going in and out of the garage and am trying to find the easiest place to get it.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #44
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    I just went out an measured mine and I get ~26" from the top of the wheel arch to the bottom of the body (along the side) in the front and ~25" in the rear from the top of the arch to the bottom edge of the rear wheel opening. I built my buck a lot lower than you, but didn't need the storage that you created with your design.

    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  5. #45
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    Thanks Papa! I appreciate the quick response. That gives me about an inch that I can lower it easily. If I need more it will require more work!
    Last edited by rodneyarcher1; 02-14-2018 at 08:32 PM.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    1. EdwardB is a great source on LED lighting info
    2. I used Thermo-tec. Bought on Amazon. Cheaper than Dyna mat and works just as well. Very pleased with that product.
    4. Jazzman used Watson street works push button starter - last I talked with him he was having some complications with it. He would be good to message about that.
    7. Breeze forward battery mount works great with the Coyote and makes the wiring runs shorter. May be worth considering
    8. I put a under dash USB plug in. Used the radio wire on the Ron Francis harness to power it since I don't have a radio. Bought USB from dell city.
    10. I have a pocket on my trans tunnel I intended for my cell phone. I ended up just putting it in the door panel all the time instead. Found it was easier to get in and out of there in the tight space. Would not do one again on the trans tunnel but you may like it there.
    I did use the Watson's Streetworks pushbutton start kit with RFID security. I am very happy with it now. I did have some early issues with it, but it was because I was the first one to buy the package after Ford upgraded from the Gen 1 to the Gen 2 Coyote. The programming had to be adjusted slightly, and I turned out to be the guinea pig. Once they ironed out the programming it works very well. No issues created by Watson's streetworks. (I accidentally pinched a wire which caused problems, but that was my fault, not theirs!) I like the RFID security, and it really works. I started the car, went inside to get my sunglasses, and the engine shut off because the RFID chip in my pocket was too far away from the car! If someone does drive off with the car, it will shut down as soon as it is beyond a certain range to the RFID chip. It's slick.

    x2 on the Thermo-tec. I used it everywhere, and am very pleased with it. It does a great job of deadening sound and protecting against heat transmission.

    x2 on USB plugs. a nice little feature to charge your phone if necessary.

    Good luck on your build. I already miss it!
    Jazzman
    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered 7/30/15. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash. Delivered 11/25/15, First Start 12/24/16, First Go Cart, 1/6/17, Licensed and Legal 11/20/17. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  7. #47
    Member John T's Avatar
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    I ordered mine this week. The winter sale last until Feb 28th.

  8. #48
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    Oh it's happening sweetheart!

    20180217_120346-768x1024.jpg

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodneyarcher1 View Post
    Oh it's happening sweetheart!

    20180217_120346-768x1024.jpg
    Fancy! Over-kill for the car, but dam they look good.

  10. #50
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    Why overkill? They are straight from the FFR order sheet. Without ABS is there such a thing as overkill?

  11. #51
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    I asked Tony if he would mind snapping a quick picture for me before she gets picked up...

    My baby.jpg

    It's getting close!

  12. #52
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    Awesome!
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  13. #53
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    I got the rotors all safety wired and ready to go. I have cleaned the garage, and have reorganized my tools a few times an continue to read various buid posts and the build manual. I think the Kit should be picked up by this Friday and delivered to me within the next couple of weeks.

    I think I have this build process down!


    Rotors.jpg

  14. #54
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    So as I not so patiently wait for the kit to arrive I have been going through my tools. I have everything (almost) that is listed in the build manual. What else do I need? I have seen posts of additional tools needed (like 1 1/4" box wrench). Does someone who has completed there build recently have a tool list they could share with me?

  15. #55
    2bking's Avatar
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    How about a 36mm socket for the front spindle nuts?
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  16. #56
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    So many awesome tools to buy! I prefer to buy power tools one at a time as I need them. I always feel triumphant walking out of Home Depot or Harbor Freight with a new power tool or hand tool. My Dewalt angle grinder is very useful, probably use it more than any other power tool with the exception of drill and impact wrench.

    You need a good tap and die set. I like this one

    https://www.harborfreight.com/45-pc-...set-61411.html

    This is also super handy

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...RoCuSEQAvD_BwE
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  17. #57
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    Depending on how you are planning on assembling your kit, by the manual with kit supplied hardware or with some upgraded fasteners, you might be interested in investing in nutserts tools and a good supply of fasteners of like thread sizes. I used #8 screws mostly and a few #10s and 1/4-20s. McMaster-Carr has a good selection of stainless button head screws. I used over a hundred of the #8-32 X 3/8 length screws for things like brake line clamps, wiring clips, sheet metal brackets etc. Marson makes a good setting tool but there are other brands that work well too.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  18. #58
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    So I got the call from Stewart, she should be here either tonight or tomorrow morning!!!

  19. #59
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    She is home!!!

    20180308_170126.jpg20180308_170759.jpg20180308_191325.jpg

    Now let the inventory begin, already have quite a few back orders but I am so excited to get started!

  20. #60
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    Inventory is complete and the body is off. Let the fun begin!

    Body off.jpg

  21. #61
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Let the festivities commence!
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  22. #62
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    Where do I start?!?!

    Good morning everyone, I have found myself in a predicament. I have quite a few back ordered parts and a lot of them are required in the beginning of the build instructions so I don't know where or how to start. Here is my B/O list and ETA for each.

    COO & Serial NamePlate – these are both created after a Kit ships and typically are sent with the last package of back-orders
    IRS Control Arms – these are currently at our local powder coater, but because of the storm I’m not sure exactly when this week they will be delivered back here
    Headers – as of last Wednesday the manufacturer said they should be finished the end of this week, which puts delivery here the end of next week
    90deg 6AN Fitting – here and ready to ship
    Inline Filler Neck –should be here later this week (again barring shipping delays due to the storm)
    3/16” Rivets – here and ready to ship
    ¼”-20 x 1” Bolts – here and ready to ship
    Double Adjustable Shocks – unfortunately I received a message late last week from KONI that there was a recent delay in production at the factory (for these and the standard shocks) and are now projecting us to receive them the 2nd week of May
    Sun Visor Hardware – middle/end of May
    1.56 Spacers – end of March
    ½”-20 x 3.5” Bolts – here and ready to ship
    Aston Lemans Cap – here and ready to ship

    So, experienced builders, what can I do for the next 2 months?!?!

  23. #63
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    Sounds like my back order was when I got my car. Run your brake lines, run your fuel lines. Do whatever subassemblys you can. Install the pedal box,brake master cylinder and whatever aluminum panels you can put on Safely. You should be able to stay busy.
    “Privateer”
    289 USRRC Chassis #9188 p/u 9/11/2017 Go kart 3/18/2018
    Ford full roller 306 built by my son and me Holley Sniper EFI
    TKO600 2015 IRS 3:55. 17” FFR Hallibrand replicas, Power steering
    FFR Vintage instruments, Wipers and Heat/defrost
    Lots of parts and advice from Mike Forte & Mark Reynolds (Breeze Automotive)

  24. #64
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    How do I run brake lines if I can't install the calipers?

  25. #65
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodneyarcher1 View Post
    How do I run brake lines if I can't install the calipers?
    The hard brake lines only go as far as the frame. Flex from there to the calipers. Just have to get the locations right. Agreed on the other suggestions. Aluminum panels are quite a bit of work. Another thing you could start working on in is your dash, instruments, wiring the dash, etc.

    Your backorder list is similar to what I experienced with my Coupe received last December. I'm down to just a couple parts. Not having the shocks is a pain, but won't hold you up.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  26. #66
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    You can spend weeks fitting and drilling the aluminum alone. I am lucky if I can get two or three pieces checked in to my satisfaction in an evening. Most of them do not require any other parts to be present

  27. #67
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    Today's progress

    With all of my back ordered pieces I am trying to find things to do (that I feel comfortable doing out of order). I have stripped all the panels off and installed the upper and lower control arms. I went with the Howe Ball Joints and they went right in, really happy since I tried the stock ones and they weren't going in at all. (Thanks EdwardB for the tip on that one). I'm sure I could put the spindles, hubs, and rotors on without the shocks but I'm not sure if I should. As soon as my clecos get here I will start drilling panels and prepping them for powder coat. I received my POR15 starter kit today so I can always get the pumpkin ready to go and any other bits that need painting.

    20180313_110837.jpg20180313_144421.jpg20180313_144427.jpg

  28. #68
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    Fixed

    I was able to fix my upside down upper control arms, Loctite really works well...ugh.
    20180313_180146.jpg20180313_180141.jpg

  29. #69
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    So a couple of quick questions as I start the tedious process of drilling the panels. I plan on running the Coyote, what is the general consensus of battery placement? I was thinking of the drop trunk location using FFMetal but then heard that it requires quite a bit more work and that the Breeze engine bay option is better. I am looking for as clean of an engine bay as possible. Suggestions?

    Second, has anybody used the modified F-Panels from FFMetal? I like the idea of eliminating the bump stops and improving the turning radius but not sure how much better it would be. Also the added benefit of not having to fill the oval shaped hole in the PS F-Panel.

    I am doing the drop trunk and turn signals from Russ and am in line!

    Thanks for all the help so far!

  30. #70
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    I don't think you will find a consensus on battery location. Stock trunk, FF Metal drop trunk, Breeze Front, top of passenger side foot box. They all have pros and the cons are debatable. I think it comes down to personal preference. I did the drop trunk battery and like it. Pretty easy install. If you have the latest version of the IRS, I believe there is a new cross member on the FFR frame that causes and interference with the drop trunk application.

    I have the wide tire F-Panels. They seem to do the job as advertised.

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  31. #71
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    So I am a couple of weeks into the build and have had various feelings from sheer excitement to what the hell have I got myself into! The part that I didn't anticipate was the not knowing when to do what. Between the back ordered parts, ordering the extra mods (drop trunk, battery box, F-Panels, etc.) and completely disregarding the order of the build manual I find myself doing a lot of looking at what to do next without actually doing it. I have the front UC and LC arms on and I have started drilling ll of my aluminum. Nothing is getting permanently attached yet (I love Clecos!) and I am taking lots of pictures. I am also planning on going to the Huntington Beach event next month and I'm really excited to see other builds and get some clarification and some ideas on certain parts of the build.

    I'm not sure if anyone has listed out the steps in order but it might be helpful. I realize B/O parts play a big part of that but it might be a useful tool for us newbies.

    Regardless of those uneasy moments, there is no better feeling than walking into the garage and seeing her sitting there!

  32. #72
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    If you had all the parts and weren’t doing any modifications you could follow the steps in the manual pretty closely. The more modifications you do, the more temporary attaching you do. The guys who know what to send out for powder coating and what parts to order are probably building their second or third car. I’ve done a lot of test fitting and mocking up and waiting. I didn’t feel like I attached anything permanently for about a year. And most of what I thought was permanently attached had to be removed later. My advice is don’t be in a hurry. You aren’t wasting time, you are learning even if you are just sitting your garage going through the boxes and getting familiar with the parts. You’ve probably seen how people mark fasteners with a paint pen after they have been torqued. That is good advice. It’s hard to remember what is torqued and what is finger tight when you are working on several projects or when one gets sidelined because you change your mind.
    It will all come together.
    -Steve.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  33. #73
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    I pretty much followed the manual, but when I got to a point that I knew I wanted something different, I looked over the manual, looked over my mods and incorporated them together. Most times it requires a temp install and maybe leaving it that way for a while until other items are added. Then you can always go back and perm install.

    Youll get it. Just take it one bit at a time.

    They do look cool being built, dont they?
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, first start Oct 22, 2017, first go-cart Mar 26, 2018

  34. #74
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    So I am still crawling along with the build, partially due to missing parts and partially due to wanting to wait until the Huntington Beach show. I still have some ideas for layout and would rather wait and get some answers (ideas) to prevent having to undo something later.

    I have got 90% of the aluminum panels drilled, I'm still waiting on my drop trunk and am trying to figure out the battery placement since the drop battery box from FFMetal wont work. I have the center diff painted and ready to install, I'm just waiting for the weekend when I can get an extra set of hands. That thing is heavy and cumbersome! I also got the spindles cut and cleaned up and the studs hammered out of the hubs.. I didn't go as far as getting the grinder out and cleaning all of the casting lines from the spindles but haven't installed them yet so who knows...

    I have been spending some money on the fuel system, modified F-Panels. battery box (returned), Breeze radiator shroud with mounts, drop trunk, and various tools. All of this adds up quick so I might need to slow down a little on that as well!

    All in all though, the smile I get every time I walk out into the garage is worth every penny!20180324_164422.jpg20180325_165129.jpg20180325_165152.jpg

  35. #75
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Looks like you are off to a great start. I just found out that Stewart Transport did NOT pick up my kit this week as promised as they are running about 10 days behind schedule with the nasty weather they had in the northeast recently and with some personnel issues. I'm bummed, but at least I have my powertrain to work on, having received pretty much every part I need at this point less the control pack and the alternator. Hoping to get the clutch, bellhousing, hydraulic release bearing, and transmission all assembled this weekend.

    I ordered the Breeze battery box and going to install that in the front.

    For fuel system I decided to go with the LS style fuel regulator and ordered stainless braided PTFE hose and quick-connect fittings from Racetronix. It didn't make much sense to me to use both Quick-connect and AN fittings on each connection to the quick-connects for the fuel pump, fuel regulator, and fuel rail - why not just go with a single quick-connect to the PTFE hose? I am going to run a hard-line down the 4" tube but otherwise all the flexible lines will be quick-connect for me. The price for these are right as well:

    http://www.racetronix.biz/items.asp?...atus=0&Tp=&Bc=
    Last edited by shark92651; 03-29-2018 at 04:39 PM.

  36. #76
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    update

    So I haven't posted an update in a while but have been plugging along. I am still missing some key components of my suspension so I have been trying to do things out of order that won't have to undo later. I have finished all the drilling of the aluminum panels except for the trunk panels, I'm waiting on the drop trunk mod from Ron. I was able to make filler panels for the upper trunk walls and get them drilled and ready to go.
    41331661661_9168667c4d_h.jpg
    41331657651_386a4b1242_h.jpg

    I also plagiarized EdwardB's ABS cover and cut the upper tank mount out of the trunk and made a cover.
    41288512582_0e8a0fadc7_h.jpg
    27459339948_d7143c746b_h.jpg
    27459330838_0707cd6b09_h.jpg
    39521913750_221112c8a0_h.jpg

    I got the modified F Panels drilled and ready for powder coating and muscled the differential in, I really should have waited for help on that. That thing is heavy and awkward!
    26459560697_d486e46ac4_h.jpg
    41331667911_53c3bb25c8_h.jpg

    I am working on the Breeze radiator mount while waiting on my fuel pump, hanger, filter and lines.
    Last edited by rodneyarcher1; 04-09-2018 at 10:33 AM.

  37. #77
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    So I have taken a week or so off due to family events and life in general but I am back at it this weekend. I m so excited, I received my shocks!!!!! Now I can finish the suspension and continue with the build. Pictures to come!

  38. #78
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    Some Updates

    It has been a little while since I have updates this build thread. I have been posting to the FB page as its easier to do than on here. I have been making some progress but not enough in my opinion. I have been waiting on some parts as well as just work and family taking up the majority of my time.

    I have finished my brakes and suspension and just about got the steering completed.








    I also got my triple reservoirs mocked up and spent way too much time trying to modify the DS footbox panel to gain a little more calf room. I didn't modify any of the existing panels so if I run into a fitment issue I can always go back to the original panel.

    Original:


    My modification:


    I welcome thoughts and critique.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by rodneyarcher1; 05-22-2018 at 01:28 PM.

  39. #79
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    More updates

    I have also finished my drop trunk, have my fuel tank prepped and ready to run my fuel and brake lines and got the radiator installed using the Breeze top and bottom mounts.






    I am currently waiting on my hydraulic clutch from Forte as well as a host of other little goodies that have a way of emptying the wallet way too quickly!

  40. #80
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Looking good. You're making great progress. One thing to check. On my Gen 3 Coupe build with those same Koni silver double adjustable shocks, the instructions say to mount the four upper ends in the top "race" height holes. Even when mounting the rest of the suspension in the lower holes as you've done. The two holes (race and street) for the suspension mounting is a relatively new add to these kits, and the Roadster and Gen 3 Coupe suspensions are basically the same. If your instructions don't say to mount them in the other holes, I'd recommend calling Factory Five and asking. It's possible the manual may not have kept up the change.

    This is what my Gen 3 Coupe manual says: "If using the silver double adjustable shocks, these must be mounted with the body of the shock down in the top hole location for both street and race cars." I don't know the reason for this difference with the double adjustable shocks. But I'm taking their word for it.
    Last edited by edwardb; 05-22-2018 at 05:11 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

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