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Thread: Rodney Archer's build thread

  1. #41
    Thanks David!

    I am getting 404 errors though on your links....

  2. #42
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Corona del Mar, CA
    Blog Entries
    Quote Originally Posted by rodneyarcher1 View Post
    Thanks David!

    I am getting 404 errors though on your links....
    Oops! Fixed, and here they are again, so you don't have to click back to the first page:

    Embedding pics:
    Maintaining thread titles:

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)

  3. #43
    So I'm getting close, my build will be ready for pick up this Saturday! Stewart will be picking it up on the 21st or 22nd and then it will crossing the country to her new home. I have completed the frame dolly and body buck and have started picking up a few tools.

    I do have a quick question though, when the body is sitting on the buck what is the height from where the wheel arches are on the buck to the bottom rails of the body (see pic)? I am trying to lower my buck a little for more clearance going in and out of the garage and am trying to find the easiest place to get it.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #44
    I just went out an measured mine and I get ~26" from the top of the wheel arch to the bottom of the body (along the side) in the front and ~25" in the rear from the top of the arch to the bottom edge of the rear wheel opening. I built my buck a lot lower than you, but didn't need the storage that you created with your design.

    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread:

  5. #45
    Thanks Papa! I appreciate the quick response. That gives me about an inch that I can lower it easily. If I need more it will require more work!
    Last edited by rodneyarcher1; 02-14-2018 at 08:32 PM.

  6. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    1. EdwardB is a great source on LED lighting info
    2. I used Thermo-tec. Bought on Amazon. Cheaper than Dyna mat and works just as well. Very pleased with that product.
    4. Jazzman used Watson street works push button starter - last I talked with him he was having some complications with it. He would be good to message about that.
    7. Breeze forward battery mount works great with the Coyote and makes the wiring runs shorter. May be worth considering
    8. I put a under dash USB plug in. Used the radio wire on the Ron Francis harness to power it since I don't have a radio. Bought USB from dell city.
    10. I have a pocket on my trans tunnel I intended for my cell phone. I ended up just putting it in the door panel all the time instead. Found it was easier to get in and out of there in the tight space. Would not do one again on the trans tunnel but you may like it there.
    I did use the Watson's Streetworks pushbutton start kit with RFID security. I am very happy with it now. I did have some early issues with it, but it was because I was the first one to buy the package after Ford upgraded from the Gen 1 to the Gen 2 Coyote. The programming had to be adjusted slightly, and I turned out to be the guinea pig. Once they ironed out the programming it works very well. No issues created by Watson's streetworks. (I accidentally pinched a wire which caused problems, but that was my fault, not theirs!) I like the RFID security, and it really works. I started the car, went inside to get my sunglasses, and the engine shut off because the RFID chip in my pocket was too far away from the car! If someone does drive off with the car, it will shut down as soon as it is beyond a certain range to the RFID chip. It's slick.

    x2 on the Thermo-tec. I used it everywhere, and am very pleased with it. It does a great job of deadening sound and protecting against heat transmission.

    x2 on USB plugs. a nice little feature to charge your phone if necessary.

    Good luck on your build. I already miss it!
    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered 7/30/15. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash. Delivered 11/25/15, First Start 12/24/16, First Go Cart, 1/6/17, Licensed and Legal 11/20/17. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

  7. #47
    I ordered mine this week. The winter sale last until Feb 28th.

  8. #48
    Oh it's happening sweetheart!


  9. #49
    Quote Originally Posted by rodneyarcher1 View Post
    Oh it's happening sweetheart!

    Fancy! Over-kill for the car, but dam they look good.

  10. #50
    Why overkill? They are straight from the FFR order sheet. Without ABS is there such a thing as overkill?

  11. #51
    I asked Tony if he would mind snapping a quick picture for me before she gets picked up...

    My baby.jpg

    It's getting close!

  12. #52
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS

  13. #53
    I got the rotors all safety wired and ready to go. I have cleaned the garage, and have reorganized my tools a few times an continue to read various buid posts and the build manual. I think the Kit should be picked up by this Friday and delivered to me within the next couple of weeks.

    I think I have this build process down!


  14. #54
    So as I not so patiently wait for the kit to arrive I have been going through my tools. I have everything (almost) that is listed in the build manual. What else do I need? I have seen posts of additional tools needed (like 1 1/4" box wrench). Does someone who has completed there build recently have a tool list they could share with me?

  15. #55
    How about a 36mm socket for the front spindle nuts?
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13

  16. #56
    So many awesome tools to buy! I prefer to buy power tools one at a time as I need them. I always feel triumphant walking out of Home Depot or Harbor Freight with a new power tool or hand tool. My Dewalt angle grinder is very useful, probably use it more than any other power tool with the exception of drill and impact wrench.

    You need a good tap and die set. I like this one

    This is also super handy
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS

  17. #57
    Depending on how you are planning on assembling your kit, by the manual with kit supplied hardware or with some upgraded fasteners, you might be interested in investing in nutserts tools and a good supply of fasteners of like thread sizes. I used #8 screws mostly and a few #10s and 1/4-20s. McMaster-Carr has a good selection of stainless button head screws. I used over a hundred of the #8-32 X 3/8 length screws for things like brake line clamps, wiring clips, sheet metal brackets etc. Marson makes a good setting tool but there are other brands that work well too.
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13

  18. #58
    So I got the call from Stewart, she should be here either tonight or tomorrow morning!!!

  19. #59
    She is home!!!


    Now let the inventory begin, already have quite a few back orders but I am so excited to get started!

  20. #60
    Inventory is complete and the body is off. Let the fun begin!

    Body off.jpg

  21. #61
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Kearney Nebraska
    Let the festivities commence!
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  22. #62

    Where do I start?!?!

    Good morning everyone, I have found myself in a predicament. I have quite a few back ordered parts and a lot of them are required in the beginning of the build instructions so I don't know where or how to start. Here is my B/O list and ETA for each.

    COO & Serial NamePlate – these are both created after a Kit ships and typically are sent with the last package of back-orders
    IRS Control Arms – these are currently at our local powder coater, but because of the storm I’m not sure exactly when this week they will be delivered back here
    Headers – as of last Wednesday the manufacturer said they should be finished the end of this week, which puts delivery here the end of next week
    90deg 6AN Fitting – here and ready to ship
    Inline Filler Neck –should be here later this week (again barring shipping delays due to the storm)
    3/16” Rivets – here and ready to ship
    ¼”-20 x 1” Bolts – here and ready to ship
    Double Adjustable Shocks – unfortunately I received a message late last week from KONI that there was a recent delay in production at the factory (for these and the standard shocks) and are now projecting us to receive them the 2nd week of May
    Sun Visor Hardware – middle/end of May
    1.56 Spacers – end of March
    ½”-20 x 3.5” Bolts – here and ready to ship
    Aston Lemans Cap – here and ready to ship

    So, experienced builders, what can I do for the next 2 months?!?!

  23. #63
    Sounds like my back order was when I got my car. Run your brake lines, run your fuel lines. Do whatever subassemblys you can. Install the pedal box,brake master cylinder and whatever aluminum panels you can put on Safely. You should be able to stay busy.
    289 USRRC Chassis #9188
    Ford full roller 306 built by my son and me Holley Sniper EFI
    TKO600 2015 IRS 3:55. 17” FFR Hallibrand replicas, Power steering
    FFR Vintage instruments, Wipers and Heat/defrost
    Lots of parts and advice from Mike Forte & Mark Reynolds (Breeze Automotive)

  24. #64
    How do I run brake lines if I can't install the calipers?

  25. #65
    Quote Originally Posted by rodneyarcher1 View Post
    How do I run brake lines if I can't install the calipers?
    The hard brake lines only go as far as the frame. Flex from there to the calipers. Just have to get the locations right. Agreed on the other suggestions. Aluminum panels are quite a bit of work. Another thing you could start working on in is your dash, instruments, wiring the dash, etc.

    Your backorder list is similar to what I experienced with my Coupe received last December. I'm down to just a couple parts. Not having the shocks is a pain, but won't hold you up.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  26. #66
    You can spend weeks fitting and drilling the aluminum alone. I am lucky if I can get two or three pieces checked in to my satisfaction in an evening. Most of them do not require any other parts to be present

  27. #67

    Today's progress

    With all of my back ordered pieces I am trying to find things to do (that I feel comfortable doing out of order). I have stripped all the panels off and installed the upper and lower control arms. I went with the Howe Ball Joints and they went right in, really happy since I tried the stock ones and they weren't going in at all. (Thanks EdwardB for the tip on that one). I'm sure I could put the spindles, hubs, and rotors on without the shocks but I'm not sure if I should. As soon as my clecos get here I will start drilling panels and prepping them for powder coat. I received my POR15 starter kit today so I can always get the pumpkin ready to go and any other bits that need painting.


  28. #68


    I was able to fix my upside down upper control arms, Loctite really works well...ugh.

  29. #69
    So a couple of quick questions as I start the tedious process of drilling the panels. I plan on running the Coyote, what is the general consensus of battery placement? I was thinking of the drop trunk location using FFMetal but then heard that it requires quite a bit more work and that the Breeze engine bay option is better. I am looking for as clean of an engine bay as possible. Suggestions?

    Second, has anybody used the modified F-Panels from FFMetal? I like the idea of eliminating the bump stops and improving the turning radius but not sure how much better it would be. Also the added benefit of not having to fill the oval shaped hole in the PS F-Panel.

    I am doing the drop trunk and turn signals from Russ and am in line!

    Thanks for all the help so far!

  30. #70
    I don't think you will find a consensus on battery location. Stock trunk, FF Metal drop trunk, Breeze Front, top of passenger side foot box. They all have pros and the cons are debatable. I think it comes down to personal preference. I did the drop trunk battery and like it. Pretty easy install. If you have the latest version of the IRS, I believe there is a new cross member on the FFR frame that causes and interference with the drop trunk application.

    I have the wide tire F-Panels. They seem to do the job as advertised.

    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread:

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