Found out why my POL parts are not showing up. My list got accidentally closed out. Lucky for me Jay at FFR is going to get going on sending me my POL stuff. All part of the fun.
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Found out why my POL parts are not showing up. My list got accidentally closed out. Lucky for me Jay at FFR is going to get going on sending me my POL stuff. All part of the fun.
Check out Bruce Horkey in Minnesota for bed wood as well.
https://www.horkeyswoodandparts.com
Hi Tom I am also making my own bed I think out of walnut . but I found these on ebay (polished stainless steel strips )
https://www.ebay.com/itm/302675846495 he has others for less but no polished
Herb
Had some free time today. After squaring up the bed floor and sides, I drilled for my rivets down the road. Also drilled the rear cab flange for rivets down the road too.
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Wallace, I noticed you commented on the gas tank filler fittings. Did you get the nice gas cap that fits in the bed. I didn't and don't even see it on my inventory listing.
I noticed a picture of it in the Beta version of the assembly manual that was emailed today. Wahoo.
Also, I see the wood bed liner on their options list on the order form for the pickup. Priced at $699.
Ralph
PS. does the SS bed liner butt up against your trimmed cab bed lip that you drilled today in your last picture?
Trimmed dash with template and clearance around roll bars. Trimmed front and installed bulb seal. Take your time and do a little at a time.
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Did you drill all the holes in your dash? Also, the small 4 hole panel below the gauge cluster opening, is that something you made up, or was it part of your shipped parts. I am missing the bulb seal if that was part of the supplied parts.
I hope you don't get irritated with all my questions.
Thanks, Ralph
Got a 36lb box from FFR of some of my POL parts. Electric steering, hub, fuel filler parts, hood hinges, templates. Unfortunately I am leaving on vacation so they will have to wait on my return. I do have enough to go-cart soon after I get back, Woo Hoo!
Woo Hoo is right ! enjoy your vacation !
herb
Well it seems I had some free time today anyhow. I installed the electric P/S. You will most likely have to trim the motor mount plate and chassis motor plate as well to make it fit. At least I did for my 35. Do not forget to dimple the shafts so they stay secure and use red locktite. I mounted the ECU as well. Well that should be all till I get back, LOL.
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Was it your engine choice, headers, oil pan, that required the steering bracket mods? I noticed in previous posts that you installed spacers on the motor mounts. Can you elaborate on what caused issues.
Just curious, as I have a small block Ford and Canton split sump oil pan. Most of the capacity is to the rear of the pan.
Thanks, Ralph
All that info is in prior posts. Just read thru. As in any kit you build there are always mods you may have to do. All part of the process. As long as you use regular shorty headers you should be fine. Though that oil pan may give you problems. Time will tell. Best of luck.
In case you were wondering what I was up to I drove our truck and camper out to the west coast and back for a 3 week vacation. As well as visit family in Los Angeles. We drove thru FL, AL, MS, TX, NM, AZ, CA, OR, WA, ID and UT. Had a great time and saw really neat stuff. I did some work on the 35 today. I aligned the front end and wired up the Electric P/S. I have a few dash things to do then I will go-cart. Then I will put 35 aside to finish up MK4 for my painter.
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Looks great. Wouldn't mind seeing pics from your road trip.
Mark
Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade. BP 347 with Edelbrock PF4 439/420. 4 link with coilovers. 8.8 3.55, 15” Halibrand, New beefed up T5 w/short throw shifter, Power 4 wheel disc brakes, Custom original style steering wheel, shaft and boss, Heat/AC, Heated seats, PPW wipers w/washers, Forte’s throttle linkage, RT trunk hoop mod, Pusher cooling fans, full LED lighting, custom headrests, 5 point seat belts with sub pass through, Speedhut GPS gauges, battery drop box in trunk, LED courtesy lights, Breeze trunk cubby kit.
Put in the dash stuff and drove the 35 today. Very quick. Ran out of gas doing video, LOL. At least it was in my driveway.
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Looks great Tom!
Awesome job, looks great
Looks and sounds great, Love the horn!
HI Tom do you or anyone else know why I cant load the videos ?
Herb
You first must post your video to You Tube. Then you click on the second to last icon that looks like movie film. Copy the you tube web address (URL) for your video in the box and click OK.
your the best , thanks Tom
Awesome build (again) Wallace.
Really looks and sounds great !
Herb
Tom,
Looks and sounds great.
Will be sending a PM.
Wallace, could you elaborate a bit on your assembly sequence for the rear roll-panel? The roll-panel, since it fits inside the side bed panels, it is hard to get in place unless you leave the side panels loose and force it into place. Then, it just flops around until you secure it somehow. Did you affix the roll panel to the frame first to stabilize, and then lay up the side panels? And, then reaching under to secure all the side panel bolts is a real test. I am trying to envision the process after everything is painted.
Thanks, Ralph
I did it in this sequence:
1. Driver side panel securely affixed.
2. Passenger side only half affixed
3. Pull on the passenger side enough to get it in - didn't take loads of force but some.
4. Then I put 2 holes and clecos on the under side affixing the side to the roll pan. Button heads and acorns are coming
5. Then I put 1 hole on each side on the vertical face between the roll and and side below the bottom seam of the tailgate. Cleco for now, button head later.
I didn't attach it to the frame at all because it would have caused the fuel tank bracket to be modified.
So in short - the sides are fixed. The roll pan is fixed to them and it gets all pinched together with the tailgate at the top.
I just removed the back few side fasteners on the drivers side and slid the roll pan in place then trimmed it to fit then attached it. You may need to remove and install a few times to get it correct. same goes with doors, hood, etc.
I finally finished up my other projects and had some time to work on my 35. I drilled and tapped the chrome door hinges. Was going to install the t-hinge brackets to the chassis. I am 99.9% sure I did not get them or any of the hardware for the door hinge stuff. I sent a photo and email to Tony at FFR. I am sure he will make it right for me. The stuff I am missing is the brackets on page 305 of Beta manual. Here is what I have. I am pretty sure the 4 on the left are 33 brackets. The 3rd set is for the 35 rear door striker. and the last set is for the inner door frame stuff. Please correct me if I am wrong. Thanks, TW
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the 4 brackets on the left are not for the truck
the far right brackets are for the door bear claw assy inside the door
the brackets to the left of those are for the door striker pin
FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP
FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ
FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ
FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's
FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"
US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)
My t- brackets and hardware came in. Here is a photo of them. If you got one of the early kits see if you have these. If not, contact FFR. Due to the MK4 and parts delays I will have to shelf the 35 for a little while. I promised a customer to build his MK4 starting the 20th. Leave me little 35 time. Maybe the rest of the POL parts will show during that time.
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Got in 3 hours today on the 35. I finished up my door hinges and mounted the frame, hinges and latch to the doors. Pretty simple stuff following the Beta manual. here is some pics.
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in the second picture... you have the bearclaw mount behind the main door piece... I had mine that way initially and ended up swapping the order... carriage bolt - bearclaw mount piece - main door piece - then nut... it worked great the way you have it now....until I installed the widows... then not so much.
Last edited by Erik W. Treves; 10-15-2018 at 07:56 PM.
FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP
FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ
FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ
FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's
FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"
US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)
So if I understand you correctly you have Bolts then door skin, then latch, then inner door frame, then nuts is that correct? Jay at FFR told me the first batch of windows they received were incorrect, and a new batch that has the correct dimensions will be here mid November. I may wait to see if the way the Beta manual has them will work with the new windows. Thanks for the help.
Last edited by wallace18; 10-15-2018 at 08:26 PM.