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Thread: Wallace18's 35 Hot Rod Pickup

  1. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erik W. Treves View Post
    On the electric steering I had to modify the frame mount (predrill 1 hole) then add a shim in the unit after remocing the rear cover . The frame mount then goes in between the power steering motor and the rear cover.
    Thanks. I will keep that in mind once I get the parts.

  2. #122
    Senior Member Marv's Avatar
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    I’ve been told Electra steer is about 3 weeks out.
    2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
    2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
    Deep Impact Blue
    2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.

  3. #123
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    I was asked about the dimensions of the oval gauge cluster by some folks in PM's. Since I cannot post photos there here is some pics and dimensions. Basically the hole for the cluster is 10 3/4" long by 3 3/8" high in an oval shape. The kit comes with a metal frame or template. Here is some pics.

    IMG_2777.JPGIMG_2778.JPGIMG_2779.JPGIMG_2780.JPGIMG_2781.JPGIMG_2782.JPG

  4. #124
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    Took off my custom rear exhaust. Taking it to Performance Coatings in GA tomorrow for ceramic Perma-Chrome coating. Stopping by Summit on the way home to lighten my wallet some, LOL.

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  6. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Took off my custom rear exhaust. Taking it to Performance Coatings in GA tomorrow for ceramic Perma-Chrome coating. Stopping by Summit on the way home to lighten my wallet some, LOL.
    MY WALLET HAS BEEN KILLING ME lol

  7. #126
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    I have not posted for a few days. Sorta bummed out. After cutting the gas tank pipe and installing it and tank gasket. I filled up the tank with 6 gallons of gas and started my engine. Well it idled real rough and had very low vacuum. Also ran hot after only 10 minutes. It seems the cam kit I had laying around was a full race kit and my used Craigs List block is cracked. Neither will work with and Automatic for sure. So I have a Blueprint 347 long block coming. Out with my pieced together 5.0. I will salvage what I can but sometimes these things happen. If you already have your fuel tank in you will have to cut the fuel pipe as short as I did so it will clear the frame. Don't worry it will work with POL hose that is coming sometime, LOL.

    IMG_2786.JPGIMG_2787.JPGIMG_2788.JPG

  8. #127
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    Oh man, I feel for you. I am going to try a start up this week.

  9. #128
    Senior Member DamnYankee's Avatar
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    Great looking project (bummer about the motor). I'm only a few hours away from you, would like to check it out sometime.
    Ron

  10. #129
    herb fraser's Avatar
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    too bad about the motor , YEA but NEW one its way !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, build is looking great.
    Herb

  11. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by DamnYankee View Post
    Great looking project (bummer about the motor). I'm only a few hours away from you, would like to check it out sometime.
    Ron
    Sure thing . week of August 6-11 works well for me.

  12. #131
    Senior Member DamnYankee's Avatar
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    PM sent

  13. #132
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    Had dyno sheet emailed to me for my 347 coming Thursday. Nice #'s

    fullsizeoutput_175.jpeg

  14. #133
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    Noticed you have been putting in your floor panels. Did you put the 3 small side panels in first to support the main center floor panel, or add them last? I have been mocking mine up and that question came to me. Looks like they would support the floor better in put in first. Without instructions from FFR, we are winging it.
    Since I am still missing spindles and shock parts, at least I can drill holes.
    Thanks, Ralph

  15. #134
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Had dyno sheet emailed to me for my 347 coming Thursday. Nice #'s

    fullsizeoutput_175.jpeg
    Great numbers on the 347, along the lines of what I was looking for. Was it one of their standard offerings? I see a 415/415 on their site but this seems a bit more healthy in the torque dept.

  16. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    Great numbers on the 347, along the lines of what I was looking for. Was it one of their standard offerings? I see a 415/415 on their site but this seems a bit more healthy in the torque dept.
    that is the one. They downgrade the estimate since every engine is different. On the 2 I bought both were much higher in HP and TQ.

  17. #136
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    Engine came today. True story. FEDEX was delivering and said any time from 10AM to 8PM. It rains here every afternoon. While my wife and I were having lunch we always pray before eating. At the end of my prayer I said God, if you can get that engine here before it rains I would be grateful. In 1 minute the phone rang and it was the FEDEX guy saying he was 15 minutes out. Never underestimate the power of prayer, LOL. Amen. I had to swap out the front timing cover for my Vintage Air setup and started to install all my goodies. Hope to here it run by Monday. I have to go out of town tomorrow.

    IMG_2790.JPGIMG_2791.JPGIMG_2792.JPGIMG_2793.JPGIMG_2794.JPG

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  19. #137
    Senior Member Marv's Avatar
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    Glad it got there.
    2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
    2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
    Deep Impact Blue
    2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.

  20. #138
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    Praise the Lord, Glad it showed up !

  21. #139
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    Only able to work a few hours each of the last few days. Today I was able to get the engine running and adjust the AOD throttle pressure at idle in drive. Hope to charge A/C tomorrow. Here is pics of engine , exhaust since ceramic coating and header wrap under cab.
    Link to how to adjust the TV pressure on AOD. Very important!!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5JediOEQ3U

    IMG_2795.JPGIMG_2796.JPGIMG_2798.JPGIMG_2800.JPGIMG_2801.JPG

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  23. #140
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    Here is the engine running, Woo Hoo!


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  25. #141
    Senior Member Mick40's Avatar
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    Outstanding!!! Love following your builds.

    Mick

  26. #142
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    really enjoying your build ! I can stay 10 steps behind you and I will not need the manual !
    put my engine in today

  27. #143
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    Running out of stuff to do. Steering hub and electric steering should ship from FFR this week, Yea! I did charge my A/C, blows a cold 42 degrees. I installed the transmission tunnel and rear of cab aluminum part as well.

    IMG_2804.JPGIMG_2805.JPG

  28. #144
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    Looks great Tom,
    We are right at the same stages. My next move is to put the body on and start with that process. Got up to 40MPH this weekend. I need to do a better job with an alignment and still need to get more ATF in. Need to re-bleed the brakes too as the pedal was a little soft.

    Getting there!

  29. #145
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    I installed the A/C drain tube and mocked up the dash gauge set and A/C controls.

    IMG_2806.JPGIMG_2807.JPGIMG_2808.JPGIMG_2809.JPG

  30. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Had dyno sheet emailed to me for my 347 coming Thursday. Nice #'s

    fullsizeoutput_175.jpeg

    Nice flat torque curve. Excellent exhaust noise!

  31. #147
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    I ended up installing my cab today. To be honest I was running out of stuff to do otherwise. I had a few friends help me lower the cab on the chassis. You will have to trim the flange on the sides near the firewall to get the body to fit correctly on the firewall. You may also have to notch the lower lip of the cab so it can go far enough in on the sides as well. I talked to Tony and Ron and I need to get my bedsides mocked up before I bolt down the rest of the cab. That will be another days work for sure. Manual is still 3-4 weeks out I was told. My suggestion is if this is your first kit wait on the manual for the body. I personally do not like to do this part without pictures, measurements and descriptions. The cab is so much easier to bolt up to the firewall vs the 33. The removable dash makes this part so easy. Thanks FFR! Here is some photos.

    IMG_2811.JPGIMG_2812.JPGIMG_2813.JPGIMG_2814.JPGIMG_2815.JPGIMG_2818.JPG

  32. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Manual is still 3-4 weeks out I was told. My suggestion is if this is your first kit wait on the manual for the body. I personally do not like to do this part without pictures, measurements and descriptions.
    That's me. I may give it a go as Tony has offered to help me through it. Did you buy your own hardware to attach it or are those the "secondary body fasteners" Does FFR expect rivets for that?

    Looking great!

  33. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stillwater35 View Post
    That's me. I may give it a go as Tony has offered to help me through it. Did you buy your own hardware to attach it or are those the "secondary body fasteners" Does FFR expect rivets for that?

    Looking great!
    I use my own S/S hardware. I like to be able to remove stuff down the road if needed.

  34. #150
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    After talking to Tony Zullo and Ron ( FFinisher) I decided to do my own deal on mounting the bed and sides. I do not plan on doing a wood bed but paint the S/S floor to look like wood. On that note I wanted the S/S floor as flat as I could to the chassis. What I did is the following. Not saying this is the correct way, just my way for this build. Copy at your own risk! LOL. First I marked off exactly 1/2" from the back of the cab on the cabs fiberglass flange. Then I trimmed to that mark. Next I attached the S/S front of the bed to the drivers side panel. This allowed me to position the side panel easy to get it the 1/2" away from the cab and got the bed height correct front to back. I laid the bed floor inside on top of the S/S front flange and squared it all up. Then I marked from the inside the hole where the shock mount is to the S/S part of the side panel. Then installed a S/S 1/4-20 stud there and drilled to match. Now the panel laid up with the bottom of the molding matching the cab molding. The cab molding is 1/4" wider than the bed molding. Go figure? I will end up doing some fiberglass work to work on a way there to make them match up better where they meet. Then I just drilled the rest of the mounts for studs and will use S/S acorn nuts on the outside of the side panel The cab ended up being right on top of the frame for alignment so I mounted that with a pair of S/S 10-32 screws. I will add more later. I like how it came out so far. Here is some pics.

    IMG_2819.JPGIMG_2820.JPGIMG_2828.JPGIMG_2827.JPGIMG_2821.JPGIMG_2822.JPGIMG_2825.JPG
    Last edited by wallace18; 05-09-2020 at 08:57 AM.

  35. #151
    Senior Member CVOBill's Avatar
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    Looks great Tom!
    CVOBill
    MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
    Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
    TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
    MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater

  36. #152
    Senior Member Marv's Avatar
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    Looking good I also trimmed the flange to just larger than 1/2 inch and then fit the bed..
    2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
    2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
    Deep Impact Blue
    2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.

  37. #153
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
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    Make sure you put the gas tank in first before you attempt this (ask me how I know ) I know you are beyond that point.... but if you don't leave enough room aft.. the rear part of the bead hits the gas tank strap mount... again ask me how I know... lol... I was too far down the road and had to come up with an alternate gas tank mounting path
    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

    FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ

    FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ

    FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's

    FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"

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  38. #154
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    Moving right along Tom, it looks great !
    Herb

  39. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erik W. Treves View Post
    Make sure you put the gas tank in first before you attempt this (ask me how I know ) I know you are beyond that point.... but if you don't leave enough room aft.. the rear part of the bead hits the gas tank strap mount... again ask me how I know... lol... I was too far down the road and had to come up with an alternate gas tank mounting path
    Thanks Erik, I had previously done away with the normal rear tank strap mounts. My are flush with the back so I can mount the rear roll pan right to the frame if I decide to. I will take pictures and post tomorrow.

  40. #156
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    Here is what I did on the rear gas tank straps. I mounted the tank as normal then drilled and installed steel rivets to the frame. I then cut off the excess strap and cutoff the bolt brackets. Now there is nothing in the way of the rear roll pan if you mount the bed farther forward.

    IMG_2829.JPG

  41. #157
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
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    I did almost the exact same thing! lol
    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

    FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ

    FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ

    FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's

    FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"

    US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)

  42. #158
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    Finished up the passenger side of the bed. I used studs as per Ron (FFinisher), works well. Hope to do roll pan and tailgate next week.

    IMG_2833.JPGIMG_2834.JPGIMG_2835.JPG

  43. #159
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    This afternoon I mocked up my roll pan and tailgate. You will have to do a fair amount of trimming to make the roll pan fit. Then trim the inside bed area after you get the tailgate mocked up as well. I am going to mount my tailgate permanently. For me there is no need to have it open. The hinges are mounted to the roll pan and if it was in the down position I would be afraid someone would sit on it and ruin my truck. The bed is so low there is no need for me to have it open. Plus I think it has a cleaner look without the hinges and chains. I will try to install the radiator surround and hood next.

    IMG_2841.JPGIMG_2842.JPGIMG_2843.JPGIMG_2845.JPGIMG_2846.JPG

  44. #160
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    This morning I trimmed out my roll-pan and installed riv-nuts. Then mounted my tailgate. I just laid the front fiberglass parts in place. I will have to do a fair amount of work to make all them fit for sure. I will open up the sides so you can see that 347 some, LOL. I am taking some time off of the 35. I have to get ready for a trip out West we are taking to visit family. Also have to go take the body off the chassis of the MK4 for my painter Chris. I made an inquiry about a wood bed with a company. They have a neat page in which you chose the color of your truck and can see different wood bed options. web page below. My hope is POL parts and manual will be here when I return.

    http://bedwoodandparts.com/p-19614-visualizer.html

    IMG_2850.JPGIMG_2849.JPG
    Last edited by wallace18; 05-09-2020 at 08:59 AM.

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