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Thread: Wallace18's 35 Hot Rod Pickup

  1. #241
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    Did a test of the flocking deal. I am thinking you may need to make sure inside of cab is fairly smooth. We are going to smooth out my inside before I try this on my cab. The test was done on a cut out of a MK4 hood scoop. first is raw , second is glue, very thick and shiny and last is it flocked. 72 hours normal dry time but instructions say you can cut it to 7 hours with heat lamp. Looks very nice so far. Very easy to apply.

    IMG_3359.JPGIMG_3357.JPGIMG_3358.JPG

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  3. #242
    Senior Member KenWilkinson's Avatar
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    Any choice of colors besides "Black Hole" ?

  4. #243
    Senior Member CVOBill's Avatar
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    That is pretty cool Tom.
    CVOBill
    MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
    Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
    TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
    MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater

  5. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenWilkinson View Post
    Any choice of colors besides "Black Hole" ?
    They have several colors. I like to call it just black, wise guy, LOL.

    http://www.flockit.com

  6. #245
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    Will be watching your progress. Do you think the project can be done in segments, leaving no parting line? I would think it would be hard to get glue over entire cab area, and flocked, before the glue starts drying.

    Looks good so far.

    Ralph

  7. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by rponfick View Post
    Will be watching your progress. Do you think the project can be done in segments, leaving no parting line? I would think it would be hard to get glue over entire cab area, and flocked, before the glue starts drying.

    Looks good so far.

    Ralph
    Not sure Ralph. I will try to do all at once. If I need parting lines I will make them in a good area.

  8. #247
    Senior Member KenWilkinson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    They have several colors. I like to call it just black, wise guy, LOL.

    http://www.flockit.com
    You gotta admit from the photo, it looks like it sucks up all available light! ;-)

    I had thought about using Neoprene by the yard. Might have to rethink this. Good for you for figuring this out.

  9. #248
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    Gracie the wonder dog say's This bench seat is the ticket for me to go for rides! Way better than that MK4 transmission tunnel I had to sit on! LOL

    IMG_3370.JPG

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  11. #249
    Senior Member Marv's Avatar
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    Wallace what’s the trick to get the rear flat on the floor
    2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
    2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
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    2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.

  12. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marv View Post
    Wallace what’s the trick to get the rear flat on the floor
    I am sworn to secrecy for right now. FFR is on the fix.

  13. #251
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    Installed my window stuff in the door. Moved my 12V cut -off switch to the rear of the cab. I can reach it with seat in place. Door panels are very nice, IMO.

    IMG_3353.JPGIMG_3356.JPGIMG_3374.JPGIMG_3372.JPGIMG_3361.JPG

  14. #252
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    Some FYI. There is lots of room behind the seat when it is in place. I am going to install my radio speakers back there. Also as above my cut -off sw. is there also. I really do not think you can make the seat back tilt forward. Maybe the whole seat but not the back. Arm rest is really positioned nice, IMO. I am hoping to get all my interior stuff done by Jan1st then send truck out for paint.

  15. #253
    Senior Member Marv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Some FYI. There is lots of room behind the seat when it is in place. I am going to install my radio speakers back there. Also as above my cut -off sw. is there also. I really do not think you can make the seat back tilt forward. Maybe the whole seat but not the back. Arm rest is really positioned nice, IMO. I am hoping to get all my interior stuff done by Jan1st then send truck out for paint.

    There is definitely a lot of space between the cab rear and seat, pitty the tall guys. Had to squeeze my trans tunnel in at the front of the seat to get the base down. Tight fit for sure. Your build is looking good, I have an appointment with our DMV on the 19 th for registration and plates.
    2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
    2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
    Deep Impact Blue
    2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.

  16. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marv View Post
    There is definitely a lot of space between the cab rear and seat, pitty the tall guys. Had to squeeze my trans tunnel in at the front of the seat to get the base down. Tight fit for sure. Your build is looking good, I have an appointment with our DMV on the 19 th for registration and plates.
    Hey! I am one those tall guys! I am 6'3" but have a 32" inseam. It is a little tight fit, but I am comfortable. If I had a manual trans it would be more difficult, IMO. Best of luck with the DMV.

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  18. #255
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    Picked up my cab from Chris yesterday. He fixed the crack, tightened up the hinge openings and sprayed the inside of the cab with 2 coats of Lizard skin sound deadener. Marsha and i sprayed the black nylon flock on the inside this morning. We brushed the whole inside that we wanted covered with the glue in about 5 minutes. Then I sprayed in the flock with the cab upside down. We covered the cab with HF blankets and have a small heater going inside. I hope this will allow it to cure by Monday night. The picture of it flocked is with the exsess laying in certain areas. All that will shake out once dry. It looks like it may come out nice. Won't know for sure till Monday night. I also coated the raw fiberglass on my bed sides and roll pan with truck bed liner. Hope to get going on getting this truck ready to ship out for paint by the 31st.

    Picture1215181230_1[1].jpgIMG_3378.JPGIMG_3375.JPGIMG_3376.JPG

  19. #256
    Senior Member Marv's Avatar
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    Flocking looks like it will turn out good. Nice job!
    2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
    2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
    Deep Impact Blue
    2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.

  20. #257
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    I agree with Marv, the flocking looks good. How much material did it take? I see online kits that cover smaller areas (glove boxes, etc.) but you would need more glue and flock to cover such a large surface as the cab area.

    I did my bed sides and rear in Herculiner also, and am very please with how it came out. Will do the fenders and running board later. Also, considering bed liner as base coat before flocking cab, to create a more consistent surface.

    Ralph

  21. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by rponfick View Post
    I agree with Marv, the flocking looks good. How much material did it take? I see online kits that cover smaller areas (glove boxes, etc.) but you would need more glue and flock to cover such a large surface as the cab area.

    I did my bed sides and rear in Herculiner also, and am very please with how it came out. Will do the fenders and running board later. Also, considering bed liner as base coat before flocking cab, to create a more consistent surface.

    Ralph
    Ralph, I bought the flock and glue in the large quantity- 5 lbs of flock and 1 gallon of glue. So it is hard for me to be exact on how much I used. My best guess is 2lbs of flock and 1.5 qts of glue.

  22. #259
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    Well, you have enough for the bed sides, rear panel and fenders. That would look cool.
    Ralph

  23. #260
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    I just drove 656 miles today to pick up my aluminum wood look bed from Smokey Road Rod Shop. http://www.smokeyroadrodshop.com/Alu...ed-Floors.html

    I have been back and forth on what to do with the bed. My wife, Marsha loves the look of wood. I hate the upkeep of a real wood bed. So this aluminum makes us both happy. They made the bed so it can be installed on top of the S/S floor or by it self. The flock is all cured and I vacuumed up the excess. Here is some pics.

    IMG_3381.JPGIMG_3382.JPGIMG_3383.JPGIMG_3379.JPGIMG_3380.JPG

  24. #261
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    Think your on to something with the flocking man that looks great! The aluminum looks good as well. I'm an avid woodworker so will be nothing but solid hardwood for me

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  26. #262
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    I wanted to modify how the sides bolt to the chassis. My kit came with very small diameter nylon spacers. The side would deform when I would tighten the nuts. So I welded up some steel plate the same thickness as the nylon spacers. This gives me more surface area and now no deformation. I installed the front of the bed on top of the S/S floor this time so after paint it will just rivet on top easy. This allowed me to permanently rivet the S/S floor to the frame with S/S rivets. I had to enlarge the area for the fuel filler to go thru the S/S floor. The S/S strip was too close to the FFR location. I moved it 1/4" to the outside so the screws will no hit the strip. Still have to drill out the wood look aluminum. The wood look bed goes on top and covers everything. I also drilled some drain holes for H2O just in case. The bed attaches to the aluminum channels with T-Nuts. I started on the outsides and worked in. I mounted the channels with tec-screws. It fits great and there is a lot of adjustment with the S/S strips to allow custom fit. All removable easy any time.

    IMG_3384.JPGIMG_3385.JPGIMG_3386.JPGIMG_3389.JPGIMG_3388.JPGIMG_3391.JPGIMG_3390.JPG
    Last edited by wallace18; 05-05-2020 at 06:25 PM.

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  28. #263
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    Busy day today. I x-mated the interior, then installed carpet. Made speaker housings and mounted behind seat. Fit and sound great! Installed 3-point seat belts and seat. Seat belts work super! Sure beats 5 -point. Next is shifter boot. Chris coming by tomorrow to help put cab and doors back on. Then a few loose ends and it is off to paint. Woo Hoo!

    IMG_3392.JPGIMG_3393.JPGIMG_3394.JPGIMG_3396.JPGIMG_3397.JPG

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  30. #264
    Senior Member CVOBill's Avatar
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    Tom, does the truck come with regular seat belts? I put them in my Hot Rod, I don’t mind the racing harness in the Cobra but didn’t want them in the Hot Rod.
    CVOBill
    MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
    Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
    TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
    MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater

  31. #265
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    Yes the 3-Point is an option to the best of my knowledge.

  32. #266
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    Chris came over and we installed the cab and doors. I have a few days of small items to knock out then off to the paint shop. Inside of cab looks nice in place with interior, IMO.

    IMG_3399.JPGIMG_3400.JPG

  33. #267
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    Tom-

    She looks terrific! The interior came together very nicely. The flocking is a very creative solution that I think works great! I really like the bench seat as well.

    The aluminum bed slats are perfect! It is a great solution, and from the pictures look like real wood. It also appears that there is some texture o the finish; am I looking at that correctly?

    As always Tom, you are doing a wonderful job, and I have enjoyed following along! I look forward to seeing her after paint, and with all the finish bits you will be adding.

    Thanks for letting us follow along, and Merry Christmas!

    Regards,

    Steve

  34. #268
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    Wallace 18
    whats measurement from box floor to bottom of rear glass ??


    I want to cruise and haul spares, luggage and all that stuff that weighs us down and have a diamond deck topper to put on the box just not enuff room my other cruisers have trunk full and the back seat full to top, so the truck box is gonna b e inadequate

  35. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by Houdini View Post
    Wallace 18
    whats measurement from box floor to bottom of rear glass ??


    I want to cruise and haul spares, luggage and all that stuff that weighs us down and have a diamond deck topper to put on the box just not enuff room my other cruisers have trunk full and the back seat full to top, so the truck box is gonna b e inadequate
    i'll check in the morning for you.

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  37. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by Houdini View Post
    Wallace 18
    whats measurement from box floor to bottom of rear glass ??


    I want to cruise and haul spares, luggage and all that stuff that weighs us down and have a diamond deck topper to put on the box just not enuff room my other cruisers have trunk full and the back seat full to top, so the truck box is gonna b e inadequate
    I measured 17" from S/S floor to bottom of window. If you have a wood or another type of floor in that measurement will decrease some. Hope this helps you out.

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  39. #271
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    Today was drivers door power window day. As with all things from FFR fiberglass wise the gap for the window and seals is small so you can make it fit how you want. Here is what I did. Not sure if it will work this way for everyone but gives a starting point. My drivers door had the largest gap down in the back bottom of the door. It measure 0.65". I installed just a small piece of inner and outer seal there to see the gap. It looked almost perfect for the window to go up and down. I made a gauge that was 0.65" wide and scribed all around the door on the outside. You can't trim the inside. Once you look you will see why. I used a Dremel cut off wheel and made the opening as close to 0.65" as I could. I took the door on and off about 4 times to trim. I finally used a socket that was 0.69" in diameter to se if my gap was even all around. Then I installed the cat head outside seal first then the felt inner one. Don't worry the felt will not face the window on the bottom. This is normal. I installed the window all the way up into the door past the seals. Then mounted it to the P/W track. Low and behold it worked perfect fist time. This seals so much better than the 33 window, IMO. Almost OEM like. Should make for a rattle free and leak free door as far as the window goes. I am very happy with it overall. Passenger door up next. Hope this helps someone down the road.

    IMG_3404.JPGIMG_3405.JPGIMG_3406.JPGIMG_3407.JPGIMG_3408.JPGIMG_3409.JPG
    Last edited by wallace18; 12-22-2018 at 02:29 PM. Reason: added 2 photos

  40. #272
    Senior Member DamnYankee's Avatar
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    Good to hear about the window functionality. thanks !!

  41. #273
    Senior Member Robodent's Avatar
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    Tom, great ideas with the flock and aluminum wood look bed. Im just starting my 35 truck build and gathering as much knowledge as I can from those who have gone before me. I acquired truck #0016 outside of Detroit last weekend. A complete kit untouched due to health reasons. I looked up the flock material and holy cow its manufactured 45 minutes from my house in Illinois. When Im ready just drive up there and get it. How well is it sticking ? My concern would be when I paint mine would the fibers fly around and end up in the paint booth on all my parts. No build thread from me yet, I have plenty of parts out getting powder coated. Rob
    FFR 35 p/u # 0016 Dart 347 TKO 600

  42. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robodent View Post
    Tom, great ideas with the flock and aluminum wood look bed. Im just starting my 35 truck build and gathering as much knowledge as I can from those who have gone before me. I acquired truck #0016 outside of Detroit last weekend. A complete kit untouched due to health reasons. I looked up the flock material and holy cow its manufactured 45 minutes from my house in Illinois. When Im ready just drive up there and get it. How well is it sticking ? My concern would be when I paint mine would the fibers fly around and end up in the paint booth on all my parts. No build thread from me yet, I have plenty of parts out getting powder coated. Rob
    Once you let the flock cure the correct amount of time, you can use a vacuum and get rid of excess. Once that is done it is almost impossible for the flock to come off. I did a test piece (see my thread) and could not even scrape off the flock once cured. You would be tape off interior for paint anyway.

  43. #275
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    Getting my punch list down some today. I finished up the passenger door seals and P/W. Installed the door pulls, side mirrors and shifter boot. I am going to find an inside rear view mirror I like. None came with my kit. I am waiting on some different stuff for the inside door opening as well as an electric hidden license holder. Then it is off to paint.

    IMG_3411.JPGIMG_3412.JPGIMG_3413.JPG

  44. #276
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    Hi Tom, this is what I found on amazon prime , it flexible automotive trunk liner ,comes in several colors, I purchased some and it works great , it is VERY flexible will go around all corners, covers everthing so you don't have to get the interior very smooth:
    Yard Black- Automotive Trunk Liner Auto One Upholstery Carpet Flexible 54"W Lining Fabric

  45. #277
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    Installed the door panels today. I am not using the FFR door handles inside. I am using a direct fit deal from Watson's StreetWorks that bolts on the latch. One less cable IMO. The door panels are very nice but are flat. The door is not flat and the panel does not like to bend easy. I am worried that the black screws with the kit will pull out of the fiberglass in time. So I installed 1/4-20 rivnuts at all four corners. I will then paint my S/S washers black to blend in with the panel later. I bought some neat little chrome deals to cover up the door handle hole. I am satisfied with the outcome.

    IMG_3416.JPGIMG_3415.JPGIMG_3417.JPG

  46. #278
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    Tom, any part numbers on the door handle and chrome inside cover. Your idea looks simpler than cable.
    Ralph

  47. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by rponfick View Post
    Tom, any part numbers on the door handle and chrome inside cover. Your idea looks simpler than cable.
    Ralph
    Here is there website. Several different styles to choose from.

    https://watsons-streetworks.com/prod...rim-neat-nobs/

  48. #280
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    Couple of questions to me about the bed corners. In the front corners I am using a 1/8" S/S rivet to hold the side to the front so the gap is nice.Rivet not in photos so we can separate panels for paint. I plan on having my body/Paint guy clean up the fiberglass at all four corners but leave the square hole open in case I need to add a screw or bolt in the future. My fiberglass sides were coming away from my S/S so I installed 3 S/S 1/8" rivets along the top to hold it all together. Hope this helps those who PMed me questions. TW

    IMG_3419.JPGIMG_3420.JPGIMG_3421.JPG

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