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Thread: Wallace18's 35 Hot Rod Pickup

  1. #81
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    what size bolts did you use to connect the rear lower 3 link bars to the axle? the bushings in the bars seem to be 12mm, but the kit only had 14mm. did yours fit. or did you have to buy something or modify?

  2. #82
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    I had to drill out the frame. I contacted FFR and they are supposed to be making a production change for the correct bolt size. What rear end are you using? I had a 2009 Mustang GT. The rear of the lower bars were Ok, but the front where they attached to the frame I had to drill out.
    Last edited by wallace18; 06-21-2018 at 06:00 AM.

  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    I had to drill out the frame. I contacted FFR and they are supposed to be making a production change for the correct bolt size. What rear end are you using? I had a 2009 Mustang GT. The rear of the lower bars were Ok, but the front where they attached to the frame I had to drill out.
    I've got production truck #4 and will be installing the rear end this weekend. I got a fresh one from Moser and will report back if any drilling was required on any of the parts.

  4. #84
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    Tom
    Can you measure that brake booster location so I can see if it will also fit with my new Hemi in the 33 ?

    Measure from the top and from the drivers side of the firewall to the bottom side and the far
    side of the system. Those two points will let me check for clearance to the rocker covers on the
    426 since the front half of the 33 and the 35 are the same. Love watching the build thread on the 35
    and missed you at Bowling Green this year.
    Dale

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by myjones View Post
    Tom
    Can you measure that brake booster location so I can see if it will also fit with my new Hemi in the 33 ?

    Measure from the top and from the drivers side of the firewall to the bottom side and the far
    side of the system. Those two points will let me check for clearance to the rocker covers on the
    426 since the front half of the 33 and the 35 are the same. Love watching the build thread on the 35
    and missed you at Bowling Green this year.
    Dale
    These measurements are based on the round booster tank. From the side to the inner part of the booster it is 10.5"
    From the top to the farthest inside part is 7"
    From the top to the bottom is 11"

    All you should have to do is draw a vertical line 10.5" in from the side and see if it hits your engine. Hope this helps. TW

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  7. #86
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    Today I flipped the chassis on the lift so I could install the engine and transmission. All went well except I had to use 0.800 spacers on the motor mounts so my header would clear on the passenger side. Most likely I would not needed to do this if I did not buy equal length shorty headers. I also had to buy a pair of 2" x 1/2" carriage bolts for the trans mount. The kit gives you the correct 1" spacers for the trans mount but the carriage bolts are way too short. I also mounted up the j-pipes. I had to shorten the top stud on the drivers side header to install the j-pipe. Overall engine sit perfectly in chassis now.

    IMG_2653.JPGIMG_2657.JPGIMG_2654.JPGIMG_2655.JPGIMG_2656.JPGIMG_2658.JPG

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  9. #87
    Senior Member Marv's Avatar
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    What type of accessory drive unit are you using on the engine?
    2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
    2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
    Deep Impact Blue
    2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.

  10. #88
    Senior Member KenWilkinson's Avatar
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    I saw that engine when I visited Tom. The accessory drives are from Vintage Air.

  11. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marv View Post
    What type of accessory drive unit are you using on the engine?
    Like Ken said. Vintage Air front runner system for SBF.

  12. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    These measurements are based on the round booster tank. From the side to the inner part of the booster it is 10.5"
    From the top to the farthest inside part is 7"
    From the top to the bottom is 11"
    All you should have to do is draw a vertical line 10.5" in from the side and see if it hits your engine. Hope this helps. TW
    Tom;
    Love watching your build threads.
    Thanks for the dimensions, Nowhere near enough room with the wide heads on the Hemi and the coil on plug intrudes even further
    into that area. The modern hemi like the early ones still has two side by side rocker shafts so the heads are WIDE along with the
    bigger bore and stroke making the block fairly large. The term Elephant motor still applies in everything but weight with it now only
    being about 100 lbs heavier than other brands. No power brakes for the Hemi Hot Rod
    Dale

  13. #91
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    Did not do much today. I had to mow grass and take care of a large burn pile from several trees I took down awhile back. I did modify the Lokar throttle cable/Kick-down cable bracket. I have had these slip and get cocked in the past as they come from Lokar. In first photo you can see 1/2 of the alternate hole in my EFI throttle body. I installed a 5/16" thread insert here, clearance the bracket for the 2nd bolt and now I have 2 bolts holding it down nice and tight. I also installed my Lokar shifter and adjusted it to the transmission. Taking some time off this weekend. Still missing a ton of stuff to finish the kit. FFR and God is teaching me patience, LOL.

    IMG_2659.JPGIMG_2660.JPGIMG_2661.JPGIMG_2662.JPG

  14. #92
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    The only drilling you have to do is for the 5/8" hole in the panhard bar bracket on the rear end. All the other frame drilling mentioned on the beta chassis was fixed by at least chassis #4 (mine). I'll post photos on my build thread later today.

    Quote Originally Posted by Stillwater35 View Post
    I've got production truck #4 and will be installing the rear end this weekend. I got a fresh one from Moser and will report back if any drilling was required on any of the parts.

  15. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stillwater35 View Post
    The only drilling you have to do is for the 5/8" hole in the panhard bar bracket on the rear end. All the other frame drilling mentioned on the beta chassis was fixed by at least chassis #4 (mine). I'll post photos on my build thread later today.
    Can you check your chassis Number. I have F5R1000004TR. I want to be sure we do not have the same chassis #. Thanks, TW

  16. #94
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    I'm F5R1000008TR I think production chassis started at 5.

    You're the real #4

    And PSA - The number is etched in on the firewall cross member right above the pedal box.

    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Can you check your chassis Number. I have F5R1000004TR. I want to be sure we do not have the same chassis #. Thanks, TW

  17. #95
    Senior Member KenWilkinson's Avatar
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    14TR here.

  18. #96
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    11 here
    2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
    2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
    Deep Impact Blue
    2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.

  19. #97
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    Installed fuel lines front to back today. Normally a 2 hour job, but because of the new welded brackets for the running boards I had to modify the brackets so I could run my fuel lines like I have done on the 33. I ended up notching them out to run the 2 fuel lines. Came out nice but took 6 hours.

    IMG_2664.JPGIMG_2665.JPGIMG_2673.JPGIMG_2671.JPGIMG_2672.JPG

  20. #98
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    My 20x11 rear wheels from FFR came yesterday. I went and had tires installed and balanced. I really like have some big meats on the back. The 8x18 all around did not work for me personally. FYI if you are not using fenders the FFR 20x11 wheels fit perfectly with the 2009 Mustang GT rear end. They will not work with the fenders I was told by Tony at FFR. I installed my electric power brake kit. I do not want the E-Brake handle in the cab. Really nice unit from Speedway. I used the Mustang inner cables so the fit the stock calipers perfect. My custom made rear brake flex hoses came in too. Tomorrow I will finish up all the brake stuff hopefully, LOL. I am going to see about mounting the mufflers behind the cab and not under the passenger floor. It will need custom pipes but I think it will be worth it. Stay tuned.

    IMG_2682.JPGIMG_2683.JPGIMG_2680.JPGIMG_2681.JPGIMG_2679.JPG

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  22. #99
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    Today I finished up me rear brake lines and bled the whole system.Also had to notch frame brackets for rear brake line to the rear. My lovely wife, Marsha is my chief brake pedal operator for bleeding brakes, LOL. I also finished up the electric e-brake setup in the rear . Works fantastic. Just have to wire it up in the cab later. I had to clearance my transmission housing some to clear the exhaust own pipe on the Passenger side some. Also when you mount the fuse panel there is no more 1/2" square tube to triangulate the panel as in the 33 manual. I had to make a small L-shape bracket so the panel does not flop around. It is very hot here with heat ratings of 105. I only am putting in 4-6 hours a day. Still hoping for some POL parts to come in. WinK, Wink!

    IMG_2685.JPGIMG_2686.JPGIMG_2675.JPGIMG_2676.JPGIMG_2687.JPG
    Last edited by wallace18; 06-27-2018 at 02:58 PM.

  23. #100
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    Today was another sorta frustrating day. It started out OK. I installed X-Mat on the inside of my firewall. Then the A/C Evaporator assembly. I started on the radiator, condenser and grill assembly. The radiator is totally different than the one in the 33 manual so be aware of this. I had to clearance the grill for stuff not to hit the cross brace way more that with the 33. Also the kit came with7/16" spacers and that is not enough IMO for proper fit of all 3 together. I am going to increase to 8-1/2" spacers instead of the 4 that come with the A/C kit. Also The hole in the bottom of the radiator is for a drain and not the fan switch as in other kits from FFR. I did not get a drain or a plug for this hole anyway. I am going to drill and tap it for my fan switch anyway because I ran out of coolant ports on my intake and T-Stat housing. Patience is the key word on this kit for sure, LOL.

    IMG_2688.JPGIMG_2691.JPGIMG_2690.JPG
    Last edited by wallace18; 06-28-2018 at 06:26 PM.

  24. #101
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    Wallace, my chassis no. 15 arrived yesterday.
    In looking at the radiator also, which you mentioned, I see no tranny cooler provisions for auto tranny either, which I see you are also running. What are we supposed to do, rely on add-on fluid cooler exclusively. I do not want to add ports to the radiator, and that will not work anyway because you need the "innerds" also.

    I noticed the '33 HR radiator had provisions for tranny cooler. Bummer. What gives? I am not starting out real happy.

    Ralph

  25. #102
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    You are correct. You will have to run an external cooler if you run an Automatic. There is tons of room under the pick up bed. I am going to install this one from Speedway. The 35 is not exactly like the 33 in the front. Many differences. Still a very cool kit IMO.

    https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Perma...Fan,97986.html

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  27. #103
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    I went to Rural King and picked up 8-1/2" spacers for my cooling system upgrade. Now everything fits to my liking. I had preordered the fan shroud and cooling hoses from Replicaparts. Mike Everson sells some really nice add ons IMO. These parts are really for the 33, but I thought I could make them work for the 35. I had to modify the fan shroud some. I ended up using the FFR fan brackets cut down to mount the shroud to the radiator. The studs on the radiator are 6MM BTW. I engine turned the shroud also. The upper hose and cap setup that came with my kit must be some kind on mistake. It came with those heat string hose ends already shrunk and the hose would in no way work for my SBF. I used Mike Everson's top hose and cut for the coolant fill cap setup. I was able to use Mike's lower hose from the water pump but had to use different hose to radiator and a bit of flex pipe.The radiator for the 35 is much shorter for the 35 than the 33. It mounted on the frame much better than the 33 IMO. I do trim the top shock bolts even with the nuts for clearance. If I had to guess Mike may come out with a package for the 35 down the road but you can make the 33 stuff work, IMO.

    IMG_2692.JPGIMG_2694.JPGIMG_2696.JPGIMG_2698.JPGIMG_2700.JPGIMG_2701.JPGIMG_2703.JPGIMG_2704.JPGIMG_2705.JPG

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  29. #104
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    Mounted my coolant reservoir. The one that comes with the kit is really trick , but mounts on firewall. I used old style next to radiator mounted to my Replicaparts fan shroud. Started on my A/C lines. I decided to take the 35 to a customer exhaust shop next Tuesday for the mufflers to be mounted behind the cab in the open area in front of the rear end. The exhaust will exit in the triangle area past the rear but before the roll-pan.

    IMG_2719.JPGIMG_2715.JPGIMG_2716.JPGIMG_2717.JPGIMG_2718.JPGIMG_2712.JPG

  30. #105
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    Finished up my A/C lines and started on the heater hoses. I mount the heater valve inside the cab. Waiting on some heat shrink hose ends to finish them up. I ended up moving my coil to the firewall. This allowed the heater hose more room. My trans cooler came today. I mounted it above the fuel tank on the drivers side. lots of room there and will protect it some also. I have to order some 6-AN stuff to hook it up. Taking the Forth off. Have a great one everyone!

    IMG_2725.JPGIMG_2726.JPGIMG_2724.JPGIMG_2721.JPGIMG_2722.JPGIMG_2723.JPG

  31. #106
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    Tom you are really moving on it now , looks great ! by the way I stole your idea to mill finish the firewall ! great idea

  32. #107
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    Yesterday I finished up my coolant lines and filled the system with 50/50 antifreeze. I also install some heat shielding for stuff close tho headers. I installed my Lokar gas pedal and throttle cable as well. Tuesday I am taking the 35 to a local Custom Muffler/Exhaust shop for a rear exit exhaust and mufflers under the pickup bed.

    IMG_2727.JPGIMG_2728.JPGIMG_2729.JPGIMG_2730.JPGIMG_2731.JPGIMG_2732.JPG

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  34. #108
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    Picked up my 35 from Gator Automotive this morning. I am super happy with the rear exhaust they installed. I asked them to use 2"OD pipe instead of the 2.125" pipe that comes with the kit. This allows more room in between frame members IMO. I am not at all concerned about power loss since this is a cruz machine, LOL. I am going to have it all ceramic coated to match my headers. I purposely had them do the ends long so I can trim them once the bed is in place. I will then install some nice S/S or Chrome tips. Everything unbolts and is welded up. I really like how the Flow Master 40 mufflers are like the old Vettes angled up some. I really think this will cut down on heating up the floor of the cab. I may even wrap the under cab portion with header heat wrap. I thought I would share these photos. Enjoy!

    IMG_2739.JPGIMG_2740.JPGIMG_2741.JPGIMG_2742.JPGIMG_2743.JPGIMG_2744.JPGIMG_2745.JPGIMG_2746.JPG

  35. #109
    Senior Member CVOBill's Avatar
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    That looks great Tom.
    CVOBill
    MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
    Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
    TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
    MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater

  36. #110
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    Great exhaust.
    What battery are you running? Will it be accessible once the bed in on?

    Ralph

  37. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by rponfick View Post
    Great exhaust.
    What battery are you running? Will it be accessible once the bed in on?

    Ralph
    It is one of the ones in the 33 manual FFR suggests. Yes you can get to it once the bed is on from below. Same as the 33.

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  39. #112
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    Here is 2 photos of the exhaust from underneath. I also mounted the panhard bar. The bolt in the kit for the RS is a 1/4" too short. I used the correct length so the locknut fully engaged.

    IMG_2747.JPGIMG_2748.JPGIMG_2753.JPG

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  41. #113
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    Got a lot done today. First I taped off my floor and interior metal. Then coated with Lizard Skin sound deadener then ceramic heat coating. Next I secured the trans cooler lines and wire harness to the rear of the truck. With the exhaust in place I could route everything to minimize the heat transfer. I shielded anywhere it was close. Then I installed the interior floor and sides. Finally caulked the gaps.

    IMG_2754.JPGIMG_2755.JPGIMG_2759.JPGIMG_2756.JPGIMG_2757.JPGIMG_2758.JPGIMG_2761.JPGIMG_2762.JPG

  42. #114
    Senior Member KenWilkinson's Avatar
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    Who has the best price for Lizard Skin? Is one gallon the amount to use?

  43. #115
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    You will have to shop for the best price.I buy from Speedway. 1 gallon of each will easyily do one car.

  44. #116
    Senior Member Marv's Avatar
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    Looking great! I noticed you are using a in tank fuel pump, where did you source it from? Is it a mustang unit and if so what year? I’m in need of a 60 psi in tank unit. Thanks
    2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
    2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
    Deep Impact Blue
    2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.

  45. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marv View Post
    Looking great! I noticed you are using a in tank fuel pump, where did you source it from? Is it a mustang unit and if so what year? I’m in need of a 60 psi in tank unit. Thanks
    Summit 1992 mustang. The pump does not control the PSI the fuel pressure regulator does. My FITech unit has one built in. Some EFI requires an external one.

  46. #118
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    Did some small stuff today. I wired up a relay for my trans cooler fan. I used the fuel pump wire to close the relay and installed a 15 amp fuse holder to feed the relay contacts. This way as long as engine is running, fan will run. With my 3000 stall converter and FL heat I should be Ok now. I also finished up installing aluminum trim around seat belt brackets. Installed my front harness and my AA-OO-GAH horn, LOL.

    IMG_2775.JPGIMG_2774.JPGIMG_2773.JPG

  47. #119
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    Got 3 boxes from FFR today. POL stuff. driveshaft, tailgate straps and hinge mounts, front and rear glass for cab, fuel filler gasket, Trans tunnel and top and front of pick up bed. Still missing electric steering, interior, seat, fuel filler neck, steering wheel adapter and side windows. Hopefully those will come soon.
    Not enough to go-cart but should keep me busy.
    Last edited by wallace18; 07-17-2018 at 12:21 PM.

  48. #120
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
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    On the electric steering I had to modify the frame mount (re-drill 1 hole) then add a shim in the unit after removing the rear cover . The frame mount then goes in between the power steering motor and the rear cover.
    Last edited by Erik W. Treves; 07-17-2018 at 09:25 PM.
    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

    FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ

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    FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"

    US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)

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