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Thread: Wallace18's 35 Hot Rod Pickup

  1. #281
    herb fraser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Couple of questions to me about the bed corners. In the front corners I am using a 1/8" S/S rivet to hold the side to the front so the gap is nice.Rivet not in photos so we can separate panels for paint. I plan on having my body/Paint guy clean up the fiberglass at all four corners but leave the square hole open in case I need to add a screw or bolt in the future. My fiberglass sides were coming away from my S/S so I installed 3 S/S 1/8" rivets along the top to hold it all together. Hope this helps those who PMed me questions. TW

    Attachment 99671Attachment 99672Attachment 99673
    Thanks Tom it does help

    what are the ribs you have running across the bed ?

  2. #282
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    Tom, thanks for your comments. I have been thinking of how to treat this area. My SS sides are very firmly glued to the fiberglass bed sides, so I am surprised by your need for rivets.
    I am considering filling in the square corners to give a more finished appearance to the bed ends..
    I note you have a drilled hole in the SS front bed panel toward the bed side. I plan to also use a bolt, or some other attachment, to pull the side bed panel together with SS front bed panel. I cannot seem to get the gap to disappear without some type of pressure on it.
    Keep up the good work.
    Ralph

  3. #283
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    Quote Originally Posted by herb fraser View Post
    Thanks Tom it does help

    what are the ribs you have running across the bed ?
    They are the mounts for my aluminum/wood look bed. See post #262.

  4. #284
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    Today I finished up the wiring to the doors. I dyed the check straps black with shoe polish. I sealed up open areas of the cab with pool noodles and flexible spray foam. Then sprayed that with flex-seal black. Also flocked the rear corner aluminum trim for the cab and glued carpet to the front lower trim of the cab. I mocked up the scuff plates and engine turned them. All that is left is my license mount and light and then load up to go out for paint on 1/2/19.

    IMG_3422.JPGIMG_3424.JPGIMG_3426.JPGIMG_3423.JPGIMG_3431.JPG
    Last edited by wallace18; 01-01-2019 at 10:57 AM. Reason: added photo

  5. #285
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    Installed my hide-away license holder and LED license light. It looks really low but it is 1/2" above frame. P/U all loaded now to head to Huegenics for paint.

    IMG_3428.JPGIMG_3430.JPGIMG_3429.JPGIMG_3433.JPG
    Last edited by wallace18; 01-01-2019 at 05:13 PM.

  6. #286
    Senior Member KenWilkinson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Installed my hide-away license holder and LED license light. It looks really low but it is 1/2" above frame. P/U all loaded now to head to Huegenics for paint.

    Attachment 99945Attachment 99946Attachment 99947Attachment 99948
    links are broken.

  7. #287
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    Not sure what happened there. I reinstalled the photos. Looks OK now.

  8. #288
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Like those hidden license plate frames. Did you go with the manual or powered version?

  9. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by flynntuna View Post
    Like those hidden license plate frames. Did you go with the manual or powered version?
    I went with manual. there is not enough room with the fuel tank back there for electric, IMO.

  10. #290
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    Dropped off the truck today for final body work and paint. We ave a few surprises up our sleeve. Hope to be done by March.

    IMG_3435.JPG

  11. #291
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    Tom looks great , Are you going to run with no fenders ? That was my plan also

  12. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by herb fraser View Post
    Tom looks great , Are you going to run with no fenders ? That was my plan also
    That is correct, no fenders.

  13. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    That is correct, no fenders.
    Can you get it titled. In NJ I have to have fenders so I will make something up to get titled and then take them off
    Last edited by herb fraser; 01-03-2019 at 09:23 PM.

  14. #294
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    Quote Originally Posted by herb fraser View Post
    Can you get it titled. In no I have to have fenders so I will make something up to get titled and then take them off
    Yes in Florida you do not have to have fenders. FL is very liberal on title and tag on kit cars and hot rods, IMO.

  15. #295
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    Chris my body/paint guy has been doing a ton of body work on my truck. He got my radiator shell to line up better with my hood. He had to pie cut the sides to make them fit correctly. He is a perfectionist and I really appreciate his attention to detail. We scrapped the hood scoop we were going to install since the hood and all line up nice now. If you have not received your printed truck manual call FFR and they will ship one to you.

    Picture0107190937_1[3].jpgPicture0108191148_1[1].jpg

  16. #296
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    Looks like a nice side motor panel modification to get around the impossible stock cutouts. I will put that photo in my build file. Are those slices of fiberglass above the panel in the photo additional mods?
    Sorry to hear about the need for radiator shell surgery.
    Keep us up to date.
    Ralph
    Last edited by rponfick; 01-11-2019 at 11:25 AM.

  17. #297
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    Quote Originally Posted by rponfick View Post
    Looks like a nice side motor panel modification to get around the impossible stock cutouts. I will put that photo in my build file. Are those slices of fiberglass above the panel in the photo additional mods?
    Sorry to hear about the need for radiator shell surgery.
    Keep us up to date.
    Ralph
    Yes those are what he had to do to make it all line up nice. We put spacers on the top backside bracket to bring the rear of the radiator shell up. Then he put additional fiberglass underneath the top front of the shelling will make it all line up with the top of the hood.

  18. #298
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    Early on I cut my side panels in 2 parts. I did not like you had to install them as one piece. Chris modified them and they now bolt into place as well as the side. We can remove them in a few minutes easy.
    Picture0111191241_1[3].jpg

  19. #299
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    Tom looking good, can you get the side panels on without removing half of the front suspension ?

  20. #300
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    Tom looking good, can you get the side panels on without removing half of the front suspension ?

    Also not sure if I missed a post but are you not going to have the tale gate operate ? That was my plan ?

  21. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by herb fraser View Post
    Tom looking good, can you get the side panels on without removing half of the front suspension ?

    Also not sure if I missed a post but are you not going to have the tale gate operate ? That was my plan ?
    Yes we can remove them because they are 2 pieces. They come off really easy. No tailgate operation. I would be scared someone would open it and sit on it and bust out the rear roll pan. As low as the bed is there is no need to open it IMO.

  22. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Yes we can remove them because they are 2 pieces. They come off really easy.
    Did you cut yours , because mine are only 1 piece ?
    Last edited by herb fraser; 01-15-2019 at 12:59 AM.

  23. #303
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    Quote Originally Posted by herb fraser View Post
    Did you cur yours , because mine are only 1 piece ?
    Yes, look at my build thread you can see where we cut them.

  24. #304
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    Thanks tom , that what I figured, but look at what I posted about my wiring problem on the roadster fourm:
    Any thoughs ?

    SOMETIHNG IS F UP,
    So here is where I am
    checked the relay fan and horn ,they work fine. I can here the horn relay click so I changed it with the fan relay, no luck
    none of the light wire are connect, nothing touching, when I pulled on the light switch the fuse instantly popped.
    the horn relay works but when I plugged in the horn nothing happened except that the relay clicked
    starting to drive me nuts !!!
    lost for words !

    at this point I am not worried about the fan circuit , I can replace that with a new complete fan relay circuit for $20 , I know that is not the really the right answer but its an easy answer.
    I am just not sure now if the light circuit that keeps popping the fuse has anything at all to do with the horn not working and the fan not working ?
    again the relays are working fine
    Tomorrow I will contact Ron francis wiring and se what they say
    At this point I am hope full there is an easy answer!!


    all the gauges are working fine and so is the heating fan

  25. #305
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    Herb there is a red wire that goes to the starter solenoid that feeds the fan, horn, brake and radio memory fuses. Check those fuses for battery power. If none is there you do not have that wire on the right spot or there is a break in the wire. That is where I would start.

  26. #306
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    Anyone who knows me can tell you I do not sand or do body work. Well my brothers surgery is postponed another 2 weeks at least. So I offered to help Chris my body/paint guy with my 35. Boy this is very tedious work. Today I sanded the dash, tailgate, front of bed and the one bed side. The bedside has lots of voids from air pockets we will have to fill with DuraGlass. Be careful to check all body panels for air pockets. They are right below the Gelcoat. We used a body hammer to find them before sanding. Chris did a great job with my side panels. He made aluminum brackets and did a ton of work to make the 2 pieces fit and be able to come on & off easily. I know why a top notch paint job is so expensive. There is a ton of work into it before you spray the first coat of primer. Chris has been working on the door openings and needs to build up the doors and cab to get a proper gap all around. Here is some pics.

    IMG_3446.JPGIMG_3447.JPGIMG_3440.JPGIMG_3445.JPGIMG_3450.JPGIMG_3442.JPGIMG_3443.JPG

  27. #307
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    I hate air pockets. These are more than the normal pin holes. Now I know what to look forward to.
    Ralph

  28. #308
    Senior Member KenWilkinson's Avatar
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    Tom,

    What are you using to finish the fiberglass? What will you fill in the air pockets with? What will you skim coat the outside with? Reason I ask is, the fiberglass is not polyester but vinylester I THINK!

  29. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenWilkinson View Post
    Tom,

    What are you using to finish the fiberglass? What will you fill in the air pockets with? What will you skim coat the outside with? Reason I ask is, the fiberglass is not polyester but vinylester I THINK!
    Ken we are using Duraglass to fill voids and most of the body work. Then my body guy will shoot a sandal primer of some sort. I do not know much about body/paint. I leave all that to Chris. I am just a flunky sanding stuff, LOL.

  30. #310
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    Today I finished up scuffing up other bedside, hood sides and roll pan. Chris finished up work on doors. He started adding Duraglass to radiator cowl and bed side. We traced holes for headlights so they float thru the cowl. They will bolt directly to the brackets so no stress on fiberglass at all. We used some all thread to position everything for the holes. I hope to scuff up doors tomorrow. Hopefully shoot some sandable primer by end of the week.

    IMG_3451.JPGIMG_3454.JPGIMG_3456.JPGIMG_3452.JPGIMG_3453.JPG

  31. #311
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    I like your idea for headlight support. I will run fenders, so not sure I can mount where you did, but will see when I can mock up fenders. I plan to use Herb’s radiator support rods.
    Happy sanding.
    Ralph
    Last edited by rponfick; 01-16-2019 at 02:18 PM.

  32. #312
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    Scuffed up doors and door jams. Started on cab some. Chris working on radiator shell and roll pan. Adding bevels to tail light mounts.

    IMG_3458.JPGIMG_3459.JPGIMG_3465.JPGIMG_3464.JPGIMG_3463.JPG

  33. #313
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    Scuffed up the rest of the cab, hood and radiator shell. Chris ground out the seams and added Duraglass. I have maybe 1 or 2 days next week as a Flunky sanding guy. Then the rest is up to Chris. I have learned one thing. I do not like sanding one bit, LOL. I have never been so dirty in the last 7 years as I got the last 4 days.

    IMG_3466.JPGIMG_3467.JPGIMG_3468.JPGIMG_3469.JPG

  34. #314
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    Chris finished up the radiator shell. Very nice fit to grill, IMO.

    Picture0118191504_1[3].jpg

  35. #315
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    Looks good
    Moving right along and you guys should have it painted soon
    Then it’s all down hill front there
    FFR 35 p/u # 0016 Dart 347 TKO 600

  36. #316
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    How many and what size rubber spacers did he use. Mine fits too low to the grill without spacers, but then will not come together at the bottom with rubber spacer bumpers.
    I was hoping there would not be this much body work with the pickup.
    Thanks, Ralph

  37. #317
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    Ralph look at post #205 should answer your question. Bodywork is up to the individual. Some want everything just so others can deal with different gaps. It is not the same for everyone. We are striving for a look of a steel body when done.

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...d-Pickup/page6

  38. #318
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    I had seen that post, and I guess you are saying that is what was used by your body work person. I haven’t trimmed yet, but it looks like I will have work to do.
    Thanks Ralph

  39. #319
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    Today I moved my front brake hoses closer to the tie rods to clear side panels. Also sanded down the Duraglass from the mold gaps. I am done sanding. Chris will take it from here. I have some mechanical work to do with him on Thursday then it is all up to hime till paint is done. We are trying for the first week of March to be done.

    IMG_3471.JPGIMG_3472.JPGIMG_3473.JPG

  40. #320
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    Chris is working on the hood getting it perfect. Loaded it up with filler for sanding.

    Picture0122191053_1[3].jpg

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