Wallace18's 35 Hot Rod Pickup

[Sbda4]

Today Chris and I mounted the radiator shell, headlights and hood. I installed the mesh in the side panels and painted the inside of them with truck bed liner. I then took the truck home to do some detail work and will have Mauldin's Auto Glass install the front and rear windows on Monday. The bed should be wet sanded and buffed out by Tuesday and we will finish up the truck on Wednesday and Thursday at my shop. Big car show on Saturday. Lots to do in a short time. Take note of how we mounted headlights. They float in the shell and bolt right to the brackets.

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Tom, your build is awesome and I really appreciate the info you provide and some of the unique features you added to your truck. My kit should arrive soon and I can’t wait to get started. I especially like the mesh in your side panels. How did you fasten the mesh on the inside of the panels and are they permanent or removable? Thanks again for the great build thread.

[chuck35truck]

I thought I put too many rivets in my firewall, but not so after looking at yours.

[wallace18]

Tom, your build is awesome and I really appreciate the info you provide and some of the unique features you added to your truck. My kit should arrive soon and I can’t wait to get started. I especially like the mesh in your side panels. How did you fasten the mesh on the inside of the panels and are they permanent or removable? Thanks again for the great build thread.

3M panel adhesive.

[wallace18]

I thought I put too many rivets in my firewall, but not so after looking at yours.

FYI, Those are 10-32 button head screws not rivets.

[bnelson]

Tom can you go over your window weatherstrip install with me? When I look at your pictures it looks like you have one continuous piece on the inside and outside. The manual is real confusing about whee to put the piece with felt and the pictures are to close up to actually see where they are placing it. I cant get it clear in my head where to start the felt and stop. And like I said looks like you used one continuous piece? Any insight would be appreciated.

Bruce

[wallace18]

Tom can you go over your window weatherstrip install with me? When I look at your pictures it looks like you have one continuous piece on the inside and outside. The manual is real confusing about whee to put the piece with felt and the pictures are to close up to actually see where they are placing it. I cant get it clear in my head where to start the felt and stop. And like I said looks like you used one continuous piece? Any insight would be appreciated.

Bruce

I was the 1st customer kit and I do have one piece on the outside. The inside is 2 pieces. I try to keep the gaps up top. FFR has made several changes to the 35 kit since the very first few. Not sure if yours is exactly like mine or not. Here is some photos I just took for you. Hope this helps.

4B1691EF-289E-472A-8EFA-9C0A4DD8419C.jpeg5EE2CF16-2B68-4A14-A199-8359E346FCE7.jpeg2EF560B4-A2B1-4811-A182-27D917814E7B.jpegF45D54EB-9BEE-4E59-A455-5EC90B876BE9.jpeg132439E9-F70C-438D-AF93-0CD99EFAC2E2.jpeg

[bnelson]

Looks like you are using same molding inside and outside with no felt strip? If I understand the manual correctly I think they are calling for the felt strip to go on bottom inside running from corner transition to corner transition where it makes that twist shown in your picture #5. That's how I set it up when trimming to fit the window but it just doesn't look clean like yours does. I'll have to play with it.

Thanks for taking the time!
Bruce

[wallace18]

Looks like you are using same molding inside and outside with no felt strip? If I understand the manual correctly I think they are calling for the felt strip to go on bottom inside running from corner transition to corner transition where it makes that twist shown in your picture #5. That's how I set it up when trimming to fit the window but it just doesn't look clean like yours does. I'll have to play with it.

Thanks for taking the time!
Bruce

Mine both have felt on the inside facing the window.

[bnelson]

Thanks Tom. You must have different strip than I have. If I put the felt all the way around the felt would be facing to front and back on the vertical part of the window frame instead of facing the glass. I'll dig around for something online that will work better.

[FFinisher]

The “cat head” goes all the way around the outside and on the horizontal strip on the bottom on the inside.

The stuff with the felt on it goes on the vertical and on the top on the inside. This means you have two seams in the corners of different material.

Not great- but that’s how you do it-

[bnelson]

The “cat head” goes all the way around the outside and on the horizontal strip on the bottom on the inside.

The stuff with the felt on it goes on the vertical and on the top on the inside. This means you have two seams in the corners of different material.

Not great- but that’s how you do it-

Thanks FFinisher. Sounds like I had it back asswards I had the felt on the bottom horizontal and I had the other on vertical and top.

[FLFrank35]

I am working on my fuel lines and trying to decide which lines to use. I came across your 6-25-18 post...It looks like you used the supplied 5/16 (send) and 1/4 (return) lines with 6 AN braided line in the engine compartment...Is that right?

Johnny from BluePrint Engines and Holley recommend using 6 AN for everything, but am having a hell of a time getting the fittings to match.
I wondering...How do the 5/16, 1/4 and 6 AN work together? Smooth operation? Any issues?

Frank

[wallace18]

I am working on my fuel lines and trying to decide which lines to use. I came across your 6-25-18 post...It looks like you used the supplied 5/16 (send) and 1/4 (return) lines with 6 AN braided line in the engine compartment...Is that right?

Johnny from BluePrint Engines and Holley recommend using 6 AN for everything, but am having a hell of a time getting the fittings to match.
I wondering...How do the 5/16, 1/4 and 6 AN work together? Smooth operation? Any issues?

Frank

I have used the FFR supplied lines on several FI SBF and a LS3 with no issues at all in street driving. I buy adapters from Speedway or Summit to adapt to the FI unit.

[FLFrank35]

Ok, great! I conferred with Johnny and am going with 6 AN for send and return. Using mostly FFR supplied lines but adding SS braided for the engine bay and using all anodized AN fittings expect on some of the Earl's rubber Vapor Guard hose, I'll use the band-clamps.

Thanks much!

[sperger72]

What was your favorite kit to build? Which kit has the best fit and finish directly from FFR?

[wallace18]

What was your favorite kit to build? Which kit has the best fit and finish directly from FFR?

I liked them all to build. Fit and finish is up to the bodywork and paint. None of them is perfect as is. The MK4 is by far the easiest, IMO.

[sperger72]

Thanks for the input. The truck has been fun. In the last stages now trying to get everything back together after paint.

Zach

[ThickCobra]

I was the 1st customer kit and I do have one piece on the outside. The inside is 2 pieces. I try to keep the gaps up top. FFR has made several changes to the 35 kit since the very first few. Not sure if yours is exactly like mine or not. Here is some photos I just took for you. Hope this helps.

4B1691EF-289E-472A-8EFA-9C0A4DD8419C.jpeg5EE2CF16-2B68-4A14-A199-8359E346FCE7.jpeg2EF560B4-A2B1-4811-A182-27D917814E7B.jpegF45D54EB-9BEE-4E59-A455-5EC90B876BE9.jpeg132439E9-F70C-438D-AF93-0CD99EFAC2E2.jpeg

I'm sure that FF makes ongoing changes and updates to the 35 kit since the first one shipped. Has anyone, or FF, prepared a list of the changes or at least the more significant updates? I purchased a manual in late 2018 and would like to track these changes.

[wallace18]

My truck has been done for over a year now. While my wife's 33 is out for paint I decided to fix a couple of things I was not happy with on the 35. The instruments are hard for me to read during the day if the lights were not on. I removed the dash some and wired the white wire to the red wire on the Speedhut harness so the gauges are lit up when truck is running. Much better now, IMO. Also the way I had my door straps allowed the doors to open pass 90 degrees and put stress on the fiberglass cab opening. I rerouted the straps to the back and installed a brace to stop the flex when the door opened. I am very happy with both results. I wish the weather and Covid-19 stuff would allow cruising and such. I do not get to drive it as I did before all this crap!

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[chuck35truck]

Tom, I found that trimming my doors that they were not equally off all the way around the door.
I got both doors mounted. Getting the inside hinges bolted to the bracket was a chore for my fat fingers. I was not able to figure out a way to get both bolts into the bottom hinge. I am still working on a solution.

[wallace18]

Tom, I found that trimming my doors that they were not equally off all the way around the door.
I got both doors mounted. Getting the inside hinges bolted to the bracket was a chore for my fat fingers. I was not able to figure out a way to get both bolts into the bottom hinge. I am still working on a solution.

That is normal. You must trim the door so it fits best. The hinges are difficult. As I stated several times the doors are the hardest part of the 35 build, IMO. Though once done they work really well at least on my truck. Remember if it was easy anyone could do it, LOL.

[chuck35truck]

Did Chris grind out the seams to make sure no air gaps? I assumed I would use sand them down and fill the voids I exposed which are a lot. Also some high/low at the joints.

[wallace18]

Did Chris grind out the seams to make sure no air gaps? I assumed I would use sand them down and fill the voids I exposed which are a lot. Also some high/low at the joints.

Yes to all above. Duraglass for large voids and 3M platinum filler to do final skim coat for block sanding. All this is in this build thread.

[chuck35truck]

Did he grind out all the seams or just where he thought might be a problem?

[wallace18]

Did he grind out all the seams or just where he thought might be a problem?

I am not 100% sure. Do what you think is best. It is fairly easy to see where air pockets are.

[chuck35truck]

Do you have a picture on how the bulb seal fit with the dash against the body and around the roll bar?

[chuck35truck]

image.jpgSo in reading some of the follow-up to this post, is the 3rd photo showing where the bed floor will actually end up. The front of the floor almost touches the back of the cab.

[wallace18]

image.jpgSo in reading some of the follow-up to this post, is the 3rd photo showing where the bed floor will actually end up. The front of the floor almost touches the back of the cab.

See post #150 and further for bed details. To my knowledge no two 35 builders have done the bed the same way. Do what works best for you.

[chuck35truck]

Thank you, I appreciate the help very much.

[chuck35truck]

Tom, I am starting on the door glass today. My opening on the bottom of the doors varies from 0.64” to 0.72”. The top and sides are around 0.42” Based on what you did, I believe I need to trim the top and sides to match the 0.64”. The 0.72” is in the middle of the door and there is some flexing so maybe by the time I get the panels on, it should stop or reduce the flex. I hope I did this post correctly with your quote.

Today was drivers door power window day. As with all things from FFR fiberglass wise the gap for the window and seals is small so you can make it fit how you want. Here is what I did. Not sure if it will work this way for everyone but gives a starting point. My drivers door had the largest gap down in the back bottom of the door. It measure 0.65". I installed just a small piece of inner and outer seal there to see the gap. It looked almost perfect for the window to go up and down. I made a gauge that was 0.65" wide and scribed all around the door on the outside. You can't trim the inside. Once you look you will see why. I used a Dremel cut off wheel and made the opening as close to 0.65" as I could. I took the door on and off about 4 times to trim. I finally used a socket that was 0.69" in diameter to se if my gap was even all around. Then I installed the cat head outside seal first then the felt inner one. Don't worry the felt will not face the window on the bottom. This is normal. I installed the window all the way up into the door past the seals. Then mounted it to the P/W track. Low and behold it worked perfect fist time. This seals so much better than the 33 window, IMO. Almost OEM like. Should make for a rattle free and leak free door as far as the window goes. I am very happy with it overall. Passenger door up next. Hope this helps someone down the road.

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[chuck35truck]

Finished up my under dash console that houses my radio, window switches and electric E-Brake switch. Taking my cab to Chris tomorrow to fix crack and prepare for interior flocking.

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Tom, What material did you use to make the under dash panel. What did you coat it with? It looks good.

[wallace18]

Tom, What material did you use to make the under dash panel. What did you coat it with? It looks good.

The panel I made out of aluminum and covered with some vinyl I bought at a fabric store.

[chuck35truck]

Thank you.

[chuck35truck]

Today was drivers door power window day. As with all things from FFR fiberglass wise the gap for the window and seals is small so you can make it fit how you want. Here is what I did. Not sure if it will work this way for everyone but gives a starting point. My drivers door had the largest gap down in the back bottom of the door. It measure 0.65". I installed just a small piece of inner and outer seal there to see the gap. It looked almost perfect for the window to go up and down. I made a gauge that was 0.65" wide and scribed all around the door on the outside. You can't trim the inside. Once you look you will see why. I used a Dremel cut off wheel and made the opening as close to 0.65" as I could. I took the door on and off about 4 times to trim. I finally used a socket that was 0.69" in diameter to se if my gap was even all around. Then I installed the cat head outside seal first then the felt inner one. Don't worry the felt will not face the window on the bottom. This is normal. I installed the window all the way up into the door past the seals. Then mounted it to the P/W track. Low and behold it worked perfect fist time. This seals so much better than the 33 window, IMO. Almost OEM like. Should make for a rattle free and leak free door as far as the window goes. I am very happy with it overall. Passenger door up next. Hope this helps someone down the road.

Attachment 99389Attachment 99390Attachment 99391Attachment 99392Attachment 99399Attachment 99400

Tom, Does the inner felt strip get installed around the entire window opening, or just as the manual implies, start at the bottom and run up around the top and back down to the bottom. I ask as the felt piece they gave me does not go around the entire window opening.
Thank you

[wallace18]

Tom, Does the inner felt strip get installed around the entire window opening, or just as the manual implies, start at the bottom and run up around the top and back down to the bottom. I ask as the felt piece they gave me does not go around the entire window opening.
Thank you

Yes it does. I had to use 2 pieces on both doors on the inside. They gave me 3 equal length pieces with my kit. Not sure why FFR did not supply a long enough piece to use just one. I ended up using a piece just at the top and then the other piece to cover the rest of the opening.

[chuck35truck]

Thank you Tom, the instructions say to start at the curve on the bottom and then go up around to the top and back down to the bottom. This would leave a gap along the bottom. But the instructions don’t match the photo on the manual. I am almost 1 foot short.

I will contact FFR in the morning for another piece.

[chuck35truck]

The “cat head” goes all the way around the outside and on the horizontal strip on the bottom on the inside.

The stuff with the felt on it goes on the vertical and on the top on the inside. This means you have two seams in the corners of different material.

Not great- but that’s how you do it-

So are you saying the felt does not go all the way around and leave the gap at the bottom?

[chuck35truck]

Yes it does. I had to use 2 pieces on both doors on the inside. They gave me 3 equal length pieces with my kit. Not sure why FFR did not supply a long enough piece to use just one. I ended up using a piece just at the top and then the other piece to cover the rest of the opening.

Tom,

I got the gaps set at least 0.65”; I think I need to open up some more. I could not get the window in with PW mechanism in place. So I slid the window in and now install PW mechanism to check operation before removing everything and trimming the opening some more. Is that the process on how you did it? If not what is the process you used for getting the window in?

Putting that cat head on is a struggle. Finally used some Dawn to help lubricate.

[wallace18]

Tom,

I got the gaps set at least 0.65”; I think I need to open up some more. I could not get the window in with PW mechanism in place. So I slid the window in and now install PW mechanism to check operation before removing everything and trimming the opening some more. Is that the process on how you did it? If not what is the process you used for getting the window in?

Putting that cat head on is a struggle. Finally used some Dawn to help lubricate.

\
I just took out one of the seals and slid the window in and out as needed. Then reinstalled the seal. Or if you have not installed the window stops yet you can just lower it to give room for seal install. Whatever works for you. Doors are the hardest part of the 35 build IMO. Worth the effort though once it is done right.

[chuck35truck]

Installed my window stuff in the door. Moved my 12V cut -off switch to the rear of the cab. I can reach it with seat in place. Door panels are very nice, IMO.

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Tom, I notice you had a portion of the inner door cutout on photo 3354. Can you please tell me the reason?