Hard top mounting (hole size for access) question.

[Svtfreak]

The instructions say mark down 1 1/16 inch then drill 1.75” hole. That won’t work! What size hole is the right size to drill to access the bolts that’ll hold it on?

Thanks in advance.

[Svtfreak]

Nevermind! I’m stuck on stupid today.

[NAZ]

Since I can't run a waterfall and my top is permanent I nixed the access holes altogether. I installed nutserts in the top and came in from the bottom with 1/4-20 cap screws to attach the top, The nutserts are the style that are made for plastics and would have to tear out ~1" diameter of the fiberglass to pull through. The top is solidly mounted and no unsightly access holes with plastic Home Depot style plugs.

So if you don't care to remove your hardtop this is another option to consider.

[erlihemi]

Nevermind! I’m stuck on stupid today.

Be careful, That condition can last for weeks without cranial adjustment...

I seem to remember some agony with fasteners on the roof. Be very sure you have your final alignment and position before you drill the window frame area. If you need to correct anything its easy to repair and move the body holes. The steel reinforcing strips move around a little during the mold process so they aren't always centered. On the front I epoxied large body washers under the dash and painted them orange so I could find them. On the rear I used long reach rivnuts (not supplied) with body washers around the water fall. I have a nice offset ratcheting box end for those. A 1/4" ratchet with shallow socket works also. I think I epoxied and rivnutted the front studs. Again they key was not using the supplied rivnuts as they don't have the mushroom in the correct depth.

[Svtfreak]

I’ve been debating how to ensure better grip than the rivnuts supplied. I originally set out to keep the top removeable, but I think I am slowly changing my mind to have it permanent mounted.

I like the ideas for better attachment y’all have given. But I need them accessible from the top as I will have a waterfall, although quite possibly not FFR’s. I already have envisioned a different panel to cover the holes better than those plugs.

Erli, where did you get the long reach rivnuts and body washers? Or could I make my own washers with steel and the right size hole?

[NAZ]

SVT, do yourself a favor and check out the McMaster-Carr catalog for rivet nuts designed for plastics. Look at part number 97217A393 for mounting your top. These rivnuts are the best I've found for thin or soft materials that a standard type rivnut will pull out. You can use back-up washers with these to spread the load over a broader area if you can access the back side. They are not exclusive to McMaster-carr (these are a commodity item sold through many suppliers) but McMaster has some great detail on these and even a drawing so you can see how they work.

If you want your top permanent then I suggest you bond it to the body as well as using rivnuts or 1/4" rivets (or both like I did).

[Svtfreak]

Thanks, Naz. I will look into that. I’m going to decide soon (I hope) on permanent or not mount.

Right now I’m chewing on other problem. The goofy taller on one side body. How to balance out the look without having the frame all catywhompus to the ground.