Joseph's MKIV - Yet another Coyote build

[JoeAIII]

Got some more clecos and got to spend some more time in the garage today... 3 hours and I got two aluminum panels fitted. The good news is the passenger footbox is all fitted, drilled, and clecoed. I will be in Texas the next three weeks, so hopefully when I am next able to work on the car I will have some more parts to work on.

[JoeAIII]

Too much travel to work on the car this month, but I did come home to some goodies this morning
3-link kit, rear coilover kit, wilwood pedals, wilwood front and rear brakes



I have been continuing work on fitting and drilling aluminum when I do find time. It seems like it took forever, and there are SO MANY HOLES, but the passenger footbox is all drilled and fitted


Also since my last post the starter in my wive's BMW failed, that took care of my advance auto parts reward coupon, and generated a new one that I have a few more months to use. Whomever it was at BMW who thought it was a good idea to mount the starter between the engine and intake manifold better hope they never meet me....

[JoeAIII]

Too much travel leaves me with no time to work on the car and a lot of time to think. Always a dangerous thing...
With the possibility of the chassis being a "roller" soon I have been wondering if any stock mustang wheels will clear the 12.88/12.18" wilwoods. They can be had cheap on Craigslist and would serve to hold the car up until I am ready for a permanent set.
I see various sets of stock 17" 5 lug wheels for a few hundred dollars locally, if anyone knows what should clear

[Straversi]

Having the wheels on doesn't help much. I was excited to get the wheels on, only to find out they just get in the way. Unless you have a need to roll your car in and out of your work space, leave them off as long as possible.
-Steve

[JoeAIII]

Goodness, how time flies when you are never home.

I have a habit of waking up at 4AM on Saturdays, so I have been taking advantage of those hours before the rest of the house wakes up to make slow progress on the roadster.

Assembled and installed the front brakes - needed two "thick" spacers on each bolt of each caliper to get them properly centered.


Mounted the wilwood pedal box - F5 includes two "safety switch" tabs now, one for the clutch one for the brake. That is convenient. What is not convenient is that even after taking pictures so I could (hopefully) figure out how it went back together I still re-installed the levers backwards. they are difficult to turn around once the bracket is attached.


WRONG:


RIGHT:


I haven't checked since the aluminum has been mounted, but it looks like the clutch pedal might not contact the cross bracing like they always used to. I have fit and drilled the DS footbox aluminum, but no pictures of that. The brake master cylinders don't seem to "fit" - I suspect I will need to trim the rods, but that seems strange with it being all wilwood parts. Has anyone else encountered this? I will try to get a picture but with the rods bottomed out i nthe clevises, the master cylinders cannot fit flush to their mount points.

I should be getting my rear end in the next few days, so I can begin preparing that shortly. I have mounted the 3-link bracket on the car already.

Reefapalooza last weekend, and hunting this weekend, so another few weeks off, hope to work on rear end and brake lines soon. Progress will continue on aluminum panels here and there. I find that very boring so I can only do it a little at a time or else I risk cutting corners.

[edwardb]

Pretty normal that the Wilwood master cylinder pushrods need to be trimmed a bit. Once you have the pedal box installed (maybe you do since the pictures you posted) adjust the brake arm so it stops short of the frame cross piece. Will probably take 1/4-inch or so off the pushrod to make that happen. Don't trim any more than necessary. You want threads showing on the back side of the clevis. I try to have the clutch pedal at the same level as the brake pedal, but depends on your setup whether that will full actuate the cluch. Regardless, trim that master cylinder pushrod as well to get the pedal where it needs to be.

For those tabs you installed in the Wilwood pedal box, the one on the brake pedal is for the brake light switch. Pretty straightforward. For the clutch pedal though your build plan lists a Coyote. The Coyote has top and bottom clutch switches. Did you buy the Coyote installation kit? If so, there's a different bracket required for that side in order to use the Ford controls pack supplied clutch switch.

[JoeAIII]

Got a picture, it's difficult to do through the hole in the footbox, but for the most part you can see the situation. the shafts are actually bottomed out on the balance bar, clear through the clevis as you see. I will trim them, thank you for verifying that. I know that one nut doesn't belong, it is just holding things together until the shafts are trimmed.


Nothing special here, but the DS footbox is fit - I've heard conflicting reports on whether the coyote install kit replaces any of these pieces, given the new sheetmetal was included in my kit. guess I'll find out when i order it.


Finally, my RT turn signal kit arrived, it is even better than I imagined it would be, A+ would recommend.


To answer your question, I do intend to install a coyote, I have not ordered the coyote install kit yet. I went ahead and installed that bracket, as I may "tweak" the clutch switches, I will have to see what everything looks like when it arrives. hopefully engine/control pack/coyote kit will be here sometime over the summer.

[edwardb]

The DS footbox with the newer sheet metal isn't any different with the Coyote than any other engine. There are two versions of the front panel. One for a donor Mustang pedal box and one for the Wilwood pedal box. You're picturing the Wilwood version, so you're good. For the lower clutch switch and the Coyote, you can use the bracket you already installed and just put the same Delco style switch on that side as the brake light switch. Then wire that into the Coyote harness. That's actually what I did on the #8674 build because I was before Factory Five made up the little brackets to mount the switches provided in the Controls Pack. No big deal, but you do need to splice in the different switch versus just plugging in the supplied switch.

[JoeAIII]

The wiring is easy - I've built entire engine harnesses from scratch, re-working a few switches will be nothing.

I have the donor panel, but waited until i had the wilwood panel to fit the DS aluminum.

[JoeAIII]

Quick update, got a few hours in yesterday morning. For some reason I wake up at 4am on Saturdays.

Completed the drivers footbox and started on the trunk aluminum. Got the outer sides on and the lower floor then ran out of clecos again. That is 125 so far.

My neighbor has a Fox body GT rear axle for me, just need to pick it up one of these weekends. He works weekends and I travel during the week so scheduling even so simple a task is challenging.

[JoeAIII]

So. Many. Holes.

I have still been working on the aluminum panels a little at a time since my last update - engine bay, footboxes, firewall done, trunk done.

Question - what does everyone do about all the shavings from drilling panels? They are EVERYWHERE and no matter how many times I sweep toe garage floor, they still get tracked into the house. This is the only thing the wife has complained about, particularly now that our youngest is crawling.

I obtained a rear end from a neighbor and spent some time tearing it down - I obviously needed to swap the 4-lug axles for 5, and I am 90% sure I will upgrade to 31 spline at the same time. I don't expect a lifetime of drag launches, but i'd still hate to break an axle and have to fix it later.





Once the rear was in, I mounted the calipers, so I could mock-up brake lines. I have the FFR Wilwood kit for solid axles.
The brackets ONLY fit upside-down from how both the wilwood and FFR directions say to mount them, and the pictures in the instructions. It looks like the calipers would contact the shock mounts if they were "right" anyway, so unless someone can tell me what I've done wrong, I'm going with it. The extra bracket on the axle will be removed before it gets powdercoated and re-assembled, it is only in the car so that I can mock up the fuel and brake components that must go around it.

This is the flange on the axle. this is the driver's side, the following pictures are of the passengers side. this bracket is "backwards" from the pictures in the manuals


Caliper and bracket on the passenger side



I currently intend to mount the brake line tabs on the diagonal 3/4 square tube just above and forward from the axle. Of course I have not checked the lines to see if they fit there yet, so that may change.