Forte's

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  19
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 81 to 120 of 126

Thread: Stillwater's 35 Build

  1. #81
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like
    I haven't yet - but they will probably go somewhere around where the steering shaft comes out of the firewall. There's lots of space over there.

    I also will be installing the wood bed soon. My dad did the work but it will have black core-trax and the lip of the gas filler is recessed in the wood. My design goal was to have a cardboard box slide around the bed without snagging on anything.

    IMG_6645.JPG

    Quote Originally Posted by rponfick View Post
    Thanks for the comments. Where did you put your horns?

    We have been missing you.

    Ralph

  2. #82
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like

    The Radiator sandwich

    Here is how I have the radiator and AC condenser mounted. I will admit it was a total PITA when I did it.

    The sandwich goes like this
    Rivnut
    Grill tab
    Spacer
    AC condenser bracket
    spacer
    Radiator Tab
    Machine screw to the rivnut

    IMG_6686.jpg

    IMG_6687.jpg
    Last edited by Stillwater35; 11-20-2018 at 08:40 AM. Reason: My awesome spelling

  3. #83
    Senior Member Marv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    206
    Post Thanks / Like
    Nice job looking good!
    2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
    2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
    Deep Impact Blue
    2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.

  4. #84
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Loveland, CO
    Posts
    462
    Post Thanks / Like
    That certainly moves the radiator back a bit from the grill. Looks good.
    Let the improvision continue.

    PS: I noticed on your first start video you are running the side exhaust option. Do you think you will stay with that. I just mocked mine up and they are really low to the ground. I guess I could have a different pipe bent that may work, as I like the side option.
    I am also playing with the pipes they provide that dump in front of the rear axle, but they are so close to crossmembers that I don't think you can prevent rattles. And, blowing dust all over everything is not a pleasant picture.

    Ralph
    Last edited by rponfick; 11-22-2018 at 01:44 PM.

  5. #85
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like

    The bed is in

    My dad came up and we got to work on putting the wood bed with Core Trax as slats in place.

    Step 1:
    Map out where the frame is under the metal bed panel. You need to know this later when you're drilling holes for the slats.

    IMG_6750.jpg

    Step 2:
    Lay everything out and make sure your fuel filler hole is lined up. Then start marking the center line of the slats. The bolts are 1/4" wide and we left 1/4" gap on either side for expansion and contraction. That's a total of 3/4" between each board. Once we had that we could mark where the holes were to be drilled, noting which holes we are going to skip because of frame interference:

    IMG_6774.jpg
    IMG_6775.jpg
    IMG_6776.jpg

    Step 3:
    We lifted the metal up on 2x4s over the frame. This allowed us to tighten everything, including the bolts that are over the fuel tank. We are going to bolt through the bulkhead at the front of the bed and panel bond the bed to the frame when we're all the way done.

    IMG_6777.jpg
    IMG_6778.jpg
    IMG_6781.jpg

    Step 4:
    Run bolts through the trax and in to the steel. Then use the tie downs and and rope to lift the whole unit up and down in to place. Also we routed the opening for the fuel filler so the filler sat flush. The design goal here was I could slide a cardboard box across the bed floor without getting snagged on anything

    IMG_6782.jpg

    Step 5:
    Dream of summer cruises with a cooler full of ice cold beverages. HEre's a pic of my dad (Tom) who should get all the credit for the woodwork and angle bracket engineering!

    IMG_6784.jpg
    Last edited by Stillwater35; 12-09-2018 at 07:56 AM.

  6. Likes erlihemi liked this post
  7. #86
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    48
    Post Thanks / Like
    Looks very nice.

    I have a couple of lengths of track that I plan on using also.

    Thanks for posting the process.
    Less thinking I have to do!

  8. Likes Stillwater35 liked this post
  9. #87
    PLATNUM Supporting Member
    wallace18's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Trenton, Florida
    Posts
    5,381
    Post Thanks / Like
    Looks Great!

  10. #88
    Senior Member Marv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    206
    Post Thanks / Like
    Wow turned out great!
    2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
    2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
    Deep Impact Blue
    2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.

  11. #89
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    4
    Post Thanks / Like
    Jeff , your White Oak floor looks great . The Core Trax is a great idea.

    Now that you have done it, would you recommend the combination to another builder ?

  12. #90
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like
    To every single one. I am really excited about the prospect of being able to secure things in the back for car shows and road trips. There isn't a lot of storage options in the cab. I am also biased, as you can imagine.

    Also, welcome to the forum.

    Quote Originally Posted by HotRod~Al View Post
    Jeff , your White Oak floor looks great . The Core Trax is a great idea.

    Now that you have done it, would you recommend the combination to another builder ?

  13. #91
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    4
    Post Thanks / Like
    Jeff,

    We have a special reason to be interested in your build. My wife and I sold your dad Tom the White Oak lumber.

    30 years ago I had a 1923 T Bucket , but sold it and got married and started our Sawmill business.
    Sence then we have not had time , space, or money for a toy. March of 18 we bought a 71 C10 to ease back into the sport.
    When your dad showed up and told us FF had a truck and you were building one, that got us thinking.

    While talking to your dad, he mentioned that a particular shop was going to help you with the body work and paint.
    Is that still the plan ?
    We would like to see the truck if possible.


    For some reason I do not get Email notification for this thread.
    So I’ll have to just check back for your reply.


    Al

  14. Likes ztoolman44 liked this post
  15. #92
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like
    Just sent you a PM. Thanks for reaching out!

  16. #93
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like
    Like many here - I got my seat installed. it wasn't easy and the fit was really tight. I would take out the trans tunnel piece to line up your holes in to the frame. Also, pad the back of the seat or the lower supports of the roll bar to protect the back of your seat. I have some repairs to do to the back of the seat. I also made a cut in the seat frame that made life 100% easier for installs. I e-mailed Tony and he said that it shouldn't matter and I agreed. So out came the hacksaw.

    I also needed longer lag bolts in to the frame for mounting. So I got 5/16" x 3" grade 8 bolts. Work like a champ.

    I'm 5'9" with a 30" inseam and I am happy with the seat placement. That's just a point of reference for everyone.

    image1.jpeg

  17. #94
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Loveland, CO
    Posts
    462
    Post Thanks / Like
    Jeff, I see you are fitting the 5 point belts that came with the kit. What is your opinion on how they will work.
    I see Wallace has opted to go with the optional 3 point. I would like to use the 5 point, which is certainly not as convenient as a 3 point, but decisions, decisions. I have lived with the 5 point for 7 years now on my roadster.
    Thanks, Ralph

  18. #95
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like
    It's ok. The length you get out of the lap belts doesn't feel like enough really. Maybe I'm just routing it wrong through the seats. I'm not a big guy, and it works, but there isn't a lot of extra. I have my 6 year old who will ride with me, so she will be getting a booster and a 5-point. I feel real good about how safe that is, and so does her mother.

    I have considered running both honestly. Not at the same time, but have them both bolted in and go in-between.

    Quote Originally Posted by rponfick View Post
    Jeff, I see you are fitting the 5 point belts that came with the kit. What is your opinion on how they will work.
    I see Wallace has opted to go with the optional 3 point. I would like to use the 5 point, which is certainly not as convenient as a 3 point, but decisions, decisions. I have lived with the 5 point for 7 years now on my roadster.
    Thanks, Ralph

  19. #96
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like
    It’s been a while since my last update. Lots of progress to report. It is finally warming up here in Minnesota.

    I made the decision to drive it in gelcoat this season. I want to get all the bugs figured out and meter out when I spend $10k on body/paint.

    I installed the power windows. The gap you need to cut is at minimum .7 inches all the way around. Also, I think the corners will need to get a wider gap as the trim bunches up there and causes too much friction with the window. I mounted the switches on either side of the hvac controls above the gauges.

    The seatbelts/seat install was a chore. I want to feed the belts through the seats for a clean install. That means you have to have the seat in the truck, while you bolt in the belts. Maybe there is a better way, but kinda tough.

    Also, make sure you install the ebrake boot before the seat. I think I need to loosen my seat again to finish that.

    The order I would follow is
    Carpet, brake boot, seat half way in, seatbelts, seat all the way in.

    Check out the pics.

    5DAE5B0B-C2FA-4768-B9C8-614E18BAA289.jpeg

    62666580-04FA-4C81-BCF7-48E7D2A97F3A.jpeg

    7F6D22EC-09B5-41A5-A8EF-EC3CBB13DE50.jpeg

    896E62DC-FCA2-4549-B275-B538D78A6D64.jpeg

    https://twitter.com/vizmills/status/...251478528?s=21

    Last edited by Stillwater35; 05-18-2019 at 01:26 PM. Reason: Embedded video

  20. #97
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like
    You should see some of this in the video on twitter, but the wire loom stuff from summit is awesome at cleaning everything up.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...yABEgI8JPD_BwE

    10/10 would use again

  21. #98
    Senior Member Marv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    206
    Post Thanks / Like
    Very cool, that kid looks like a hot rodder in the making.
    2008 FFR 5851 Copperhead Orange with ghost stripes by “the Bat”, Ford Racing 345 HP, Tremec 5 Speed
    2012 FFR 33 HR, won Best Use of Chrome Huntington Beach 2014; 345 HP AOD
    Deep Impact Blue
    2018 FFR 35 Pick Up, building, getting there.

  22. #99
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like
    Well I think I owe people some updates:

    1. I have my inspection scheduled with the State of Minnesota for June 5th. I have to drive 90 minutes out of the way to do it. Otherwise to get it done in St. Paul, MN it was going to be October at the earliest

    2. My water pump started leaking. BluePrint Engines stood behind their warranty and sent me a whole new pump and gaskets. I took this opportunity to buy the Boig cool tube. That should arrive this week.
    IMG_0766.jpg . IMG_5729.jpg

    3. Got the glass installed - had a mobile glass installer come to my house. Took them under 1 hour and I'm glad it's done.
    IMG_7367.jpg IMG_7733.jpg IMG_9868.jpg

    4. My kit was an early kit so it had the 33 exhaust. When they sent me the turn-down exhaust I didn't get the hangers. I also didn't like the idea of the length of those hangers, so I bought these - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/stw-th902-5bc
    I cut them to be flush to the frame, drill/tapped the holes and they work awesome to keep the exhaust from rattling against the frame (which it was doing).
    IMG_0868.jpg IMG_0209.jpg

    5. Got the windows and door panels done. Please put on your side mirror before your window glass is in. Ask me how I know!
    IMG_2043.jpg

    I just need to finish the water pump swap, run new coolant through it and trailer it up to St. Cloud. Getting closer with Chassis #8

    Here it is sounding pretty nice

  23. Likes Houdini, HotRod~Al, BluePrintEngines liked this post
  24. #100
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Loveland, CO
    Posts
    462
    Post Thanks / Like
    Did the glass guy fab up any type of rubber grommet, or just use an adhesive? You want a neat job if just adhesive.
    Thanks, Ralph.

  25. #101
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like
    They put a 1/3” foam-ish gasket on the back of the glass. Makes it a nice appearance.

  26. #102
    Senior Member Robodent's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Hampshire, IL
    Posts
    302
    Post Thanks / Like
    Great job !!!! No biggie on the glass it will need to come back out to paint anyway the final fit is the important one. Good luck on your inspection. Did you install wipers ? I’m in Illinois idk if I have to have them or not for when the time comes. I really don’t want them or plan on using them. Rob
    FFR 35 p/u # 0016 Dart 347 TKO 600

  27. #103
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like
    I am going no wipers. My understanding of MN process is that this is NOT a safety inspection (they say this right on the form) but it is a "did you buy the major components of your car and can you prove ownership inspection. I have all that lined up from Kit, Engine, Trans, Rearend, and Wheels/tires.

    You are right - I didn't have them go hog wild on the windshield so that they can cut it out later without destroying it. I'm planning on solely gel-coat miles this year, paint over the winter and then being all done!

  28. #104
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like
    I re did my cooling hoses. Everyone should buy the cool tube from Bob at Boig. Really nice and way better than what you get in the kit.

    Next I found a gates hose that let me get the filler higher than the radiator and as handled then job from the SBF filler to the radiator. Ive posted photos below.

    185B81B8-4E7C-4F12-9DCE-3FEC8B4FABE8.jpeg

    8546B6A2-2886-43E2-8CEE-9720A8422643.jpeg

    03684F71-BA6A-4981-A860-6AA171B907D3.jpeg

    6F6361BC-6EC5-4B92-975D-3D3094815BD2.jpeg

  29. #105
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like
    Here’s a cut diagram from the one hose! Comments on my penmanship are summarily agreed with.

    E932A35E-FD45-4EAB-B745-9EC06C37C934.jpeg

  30. #106
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like
    Today is DMV day. Wish me luck! I’ll report back on the process and the result.

    8711DCCB-890B-45CD-B6C7-88EEEDB53E5D.jpeg

  31. Likes Houdini liked this post
  32. #107
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like

    I’m legal!

    98D51F60-04B3-4F79-98C0-CE99056241E5.jpeg

    AE6F9893-6A6C-4E9B-AA8A-3B3378698DDF.jpeg

    78C35D2C-5BE1-4323-9367-037A84A2CDD3.jpeg

    I’m legal! I will be making a separate thread about the whole MN registration process

    Now I can check my drive line angles, have a bit of transmission vibration at 60. Had never gone that fast before.

    I can also take the truck in for an alignment too, it’s too twitchy and needs one!

    I got insurance through State Farm on their classics/antique policy at $19/month with the same coverage levels as my normal cars, no mileage limits and a set agreed upon replacement value.

    370 days from nothing to legal. Bodywork happens this winter. But now we roll!
    Last edited by Stillwater35; 06-07-2019 at 07:39 AM.

  33. Likes FF33rod, Noodles33 liked this post
  34. #108
    Senior Member Robodent's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Hampshire, IL
    Posts
    302
    Post Thanks / Like
    Congrats
    FFR 35 p/u # 0016 Dart 347 TKO 600

  35. #109
    herb fraser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    455
    Post Thanks / Like
    That's Wonderful !!!!!!

  36. #110
    PLATNUM Supporting Member
    wallace18's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Trenton, Florida
    Posts
    5,381
    Post Thanks / Like
    Congrats!

  37. #111
    Senior Member DamnYankee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Port St Lucie, FL
    Posts
    236
    Post Thanks / Like
    Awesome job, congrats

  38. #112
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Scurry Texas
    Posts
    515
    Post Thanks / Like
    Sweet!

  39. #113
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like
    Just a little update:
    I went on vacation to NYC and came home to a title from the Minnesota DMV. I was super surprised at 2 things - that it came so quickly and that they accepted it because the woman at the local DMV tried to register it as a 1935.

    Here's a quick drive by that gives potential builders a look at some details.



    Then here is the title. I got my desired plate of "HMBLT35"

    IMG_7695.jpg

  40. Likes Straversi, GoDadGo liked this post
  41. #114
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like
    Getting my alignment done and couldn't help but park with the other trucks.

    IMG_7702.jpg

    Yes - it is lower than the window sill of a stock Ram1500

  42. Likes GoDadGo liked this post
  43. #115
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Loveland, CO
    Posts
    462
    Post Thanks / Like
    Looks like you have pretty good clearance at bottom of grill. What do you think your clearance is Did you adjust your springs up a lot, tire size, or to what do you attribute?

    My shocks are up as far as I can get with weight off, and turning adjuster by hand. It appears impossible to get an adjuster wrench on the shocks if mounted downward as FFR suggests, which I did. I would not relish taking the whole front end off to turn them upside down.

    Great job. Ralph

  44. #116
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like
    The front of my frame is 4.5" and the rear is 5" off the floor. I measured this morning. I used my fingernail to count that I'm 15 threads up the sleeve on the coil over.

    I was also thinking of cranking up the shocks a little bit. Have you tried a spring compressor and then spin the hats after the springs are shorter?

    And yes, a Koni coilover wrench is an impossibility. Assume you can get it on, you can't move them almost at all...

  45. #117
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Loveland, CO
    Posts
    462
    Post Thanks / Like
    I just noticed the latest pdf version (April, 2019)of the assembly manual shows adding grease on the washer that the adjuster nut sits on. Also, indicates that different length shocks are now used front to rear, possibly due to frame redesign after ours.
    Ralph

  46. #118
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like
    This morning I put on 60 miles in a single drive. I've now got over 115 miles on after becoming legal.

    It turns 1700rpm at 60.

    The Trans Cooler is working great as it just stays pegged at 160 no matter what I did to it.

    I lowered the tire pressure to 25 all around and it makes a world of difference. Just nice and smooth.

    I finally got the secondaries opened up and man does it haul. Because it's so loud, you have to readjust your opinion of what fast sounds like.

    Here is a pic of me loaded up for Crusin' on St. Croix which is a bi-weekly car meet up in Minnesota. http://cruisinonthecroix.com/

    IMG_7758.jpg

    IMG_7757.jpg

  47. #119
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Scurry Texas
    Posts
    515
    Post Thanks / Like
    awesome. i cant wait to get to that point Your tie down rails worked out great Good luck and post pictures!

  48. #120
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Twin Cities, MN
    Posts
    222
    Post Thanks / Like
    I used the website Fiverr and had someone build me a logo. What do you all think?

    Raspberry Ridge Speed Shop 2.png

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Stewart Transport

Visit our community sponsor