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Thread: LS3 accessory drive question

  1. #41
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveS53 View Post
    From the picture, it looks like the PS motor hits the sump. Is the Holley sump short enough that the motor will rotate to be in front of the sump? It's about 6 inches shorter than a Corvette pan.
    The ps motor is approximately 1/4 inch from the sump. With the Holley pan it would allow the ps motor to rotate up in front of the sump. I estimate it would give an extra 2"+ of ground clearance.
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Dave, looks like the Holley sump will allow the PS motor to be rotated up more and be above the bottom of the sump and frame rails.
    The sump on the Holley pan is not as deep and would bring it up inside the frame rails also.
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

  3. #43
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    One of your gents posted the '33 had 4.5" of ground clearance, so I should have 3.75" with the PS motor hanging down. This might be OK. My lowered 540i only has 3" of ground clearance under the lower engine cover. I just have to take it easy over speed bumps or take them at a slight angle and I'm OK.
    I'll wait until the car shows up and take some measurements, (got a call from the Stewart Transport driver yesterday, it will be here on Feb 27).
    Guess I could possibly buy tires that had one size larger side walls? Might get another 1/4"??

  4. #44
    Senior Member jayguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Guess I could possibly buy tires that had one size larger side walls? Might get another 1/4"??
    Or just adjust the adjustable coil-overs to get a little more clearance.

  5. #45
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    One thing I learned early in my (non FRR) build was that the shocks should ideally be set at 60% compression, at ride height, with a normal load. If you have the specs on the shocks, I'd figure out the perfect ride height for them and substitute mock-up bars for the coil-overs to see what ride height you get. With mock-up bars, weight is no longer a factor. The car will sit the same with out without the engine and body. I even used mock-up bars when I did my own front end alignment. If you get a screwy ride height, is means that the shock length isn't ideal.

    I had adjustable mock-up bars from Speedway on the front, but had to modify them to get them short enough. For the rear, I used some cheap 1" EMT steel conduit and drilled fixed holes at the right c-c measurement. It's easier to drill square tube. You can get either one at Home Depot.

  6. #46
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    Sounds like a good idea Dave. I already have some 1" EMT and square tubing.
    I'm planning on using some lower tension QA1 springs for a softer ride, not going to track the car. Maybe just a few 1/4 mile runs until I get booted off cuz it will probably be too quick without having the required equipment.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by jayguy View Post
    Or just adjust the adjustable coil-overs to get a little more clearance.
    Won't that mess up the alignment or induce bump steer?

  8. #48
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    HVACMAN asked about my PS move to the firewall;

    I will look around for some pics of my PS set-up but from what I have seen it would work for almost any engine combo on the 33.
    My Uni-steer is mounted on the firewall where the FF carrier bearing usually goes. That bearing then moves down to the plate that FF
    says to mount the PS motor to. My install did not require any parts beyond the shafts and bearings that come with the kit and that part
    of the firewall isn't used by anything shown in the build manual. A few others have mounted the overflow tank there but my tank is on
    the PS.
    HTH
    Dale

  9. #49
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    I would love to see a few pictures of your firewall mounting!

  10. #50
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    The PS motor relocation sounds like a big improvement with little or no extra cost.

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by bellingson View Post
    I would love to see a few pictures of your firewall mounting!
    Could this be it??

    image.jpeg

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Could this be it??

    image.jpeg
    Jim
    That's not mine, IIRC that is the one that uses a motor from a Saturn.
    Same general location but mine is mounted directly to the firewall.
    Having trouble loading the pictures I found of it so I'll try again later today.
    Dale

  13. #53
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    Dale sent me the pic of his method of mounting the electric steering. The aluminum bracket to the right is what he will use to angle the steering motor.
    Very nice work around so we don't need to buy a different oil pan.
    I'll let Dale explain the rest.

    DSCF1607.jpg

    Not sure why the pic isn't showing up, however if I click on the attachment the pic shows up.
    Here's another try.
    image.jpeg
    Last edited by JimLev; 02-20-2018 at 11:15 PM. Reason: Added more

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Dale sent me the pic of his method of mounting the electric steering. The aluminum bracket to the right is what he will use to angle the steering motor.
    Very nice work around so we don't need to buy a different oil pan.
    I'll let Dale explain the rest. DSCF1607.jpg

    Not sure why the pic isn't showing up, however if I click on the attachment the pic shows up.
    Here's another try. image.jpeg
    I know we are a little off track here talking about PS but it does open up things for a lot of different engine choices
    and clears up oil pan issues so the only concern there is keeping any pan shallow enough to be above the frame.

    As the picture shows, that's un-used space anyway and close enough to move the module inside away from the heat.
    You can also see that the engine side U-joint angle is OK but the one inside the car is sharp enough to bind as is so the
    10* wedge eases the angle inside enough to let that joint work properly.
    Thanks to Jim for posting the link
    Dale

  15. #55
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    [QUOTE=JimLev;314127]Dale sent me the pic of his method of mounting the electric steering. The aluminum bracket to the right is what he will use to angle the steering motor.
    Very nice work around so we don't need to buy a different oil pan.
    I'll let Dale explain the rest.

    DSCF1607.jpg

    Wow! This solves several problems. Now, where do you get the aluminum angle wedge for the interior side of the firewall?

  16. #56
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    [QUOTE=bellingson;314405]
    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Dale sent me the pic of his method of mounting the electric steering. The aluminum bracket to the right is what he will use to angle the steering motor.
    Very nice work around so we don't need to buy a different oil pan.
    I'll let Dale explain the rest.

    DSCF1607.jpg

    Wow! This solves several problems. Now, where do you get the aluminum angle wedge for the interior side of the firewall?
    I used longer bolts and cut sleeves for them from steel pipe nipples. The end for the firewall gets the same 10* angle so it all pulls in tight.
    HTH
    Dale

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