I received my kit 12/2017 but have been lurking here planning this build with my son for the past year or so.
Our goals for this project are:
-Build a DD capable car that we can track occasionally,...We will be overbuilding in an attempt to achieve better reliability
-300 to 400HP
-EJ257 bored, decked and o-ringed, all forged internals with stock nitrated crank, ported 25b heads with 1mm oversized valves, beehive springs, stage 3 cams and head studs, KillerB oil pan and windage tray
-Fix motor for proper tilt and solid mounts
-Composite top feed TGV deletes with ID2000 injectors, Aeromotive fuel rails and a Walbro 450 Fuel pump with hydramat
-EFR7163 Twin Scroll turbo (eventually) we will start out with the stock turbo arrangement and KillerB header
-Air to water intercooler and external oil cooler
-STI running gear and 6 speed manual transmission with MR2 shifter
-Stock STI Brembo brakes and ABS
-integrate dash and console from donor, integrate a tablet into the dash for infotainment and ecu display/control
-AC/heat, power windows, mirrors and door locks, heated seats and key less entry
-standalone ECU
Welcome! If you've been lurking on the forum then you know how valuable it is.....I am sure that your wife won't notice that anything is going in the garage....
I assume you've been in the Subaru scene for a while based on your choices of components, but either your HP numbers are really low or your parts are overkill (at least to me).
Don't get me wrong, I'd really love those choices in my daily, but I'm a bit over 300AWHP with a VF48 and all other bolt ons. I have ID1000s and a Blouch 1.5XTR ready to get me to 375+ AWHP but that can still work without decking and o-rings, smaller injectors (unless you want E-85), or worked over heads. You might be able to skip some of the engine work and go straight to the EFR with similar reliability and cost.
All that to say, make sure you don't compromise your DD drivability or else the car isn't going to be fun on a regular basis.
(Feel free to completely ignore my post though, it's completely your build and I'll support it because I still want to see how that would turn out)
You should go with the Perrin headers as they do not hang below the frame rails
Might not be an issue with his custom mounts to fix/adjust the engine tilt issue. Surprised no one has jumped on that and started offering taller engine mounts and possibly lower transmission mounts.
Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
818 SRX - #91
Arrived 01/02/2014
First Start 10/31/2016
First Drive 05/22/2017
Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818
Welcome! If you've been lurking on the forum then you know how valuable it is.....I am sure that your wife won't notice that anything is going in the garage....
I've disguised it as a big pile of recycling. JK she knows all about it. She's already doubled my estimate so I'm probably ok.
Sounds like a sweet build, what's your plan for wiring harness since you're doing standalone and quite a few features?
I'm not sure yet. I have the donor harness but I think I may go the Infinity route. It seems to have plenty of I/O ports for whatever you want if you buy enough modules. I need to do more research on Megasquirt, Haltec, etc before I decide. I wish Cobb had a way to add traction control. No way I'm letting anyone else drive it without. Now that all the Racelogic units are gone choices are limited.
You should go with the Perrin headers as they do not hang below the frame rails
I'm hoping I can accommodate most of that with the engine tilt fix. Its good to know that the Perrin headers fit though. I'll keep that in my pocket, Thanks!
Might not be an issue with his custom mounts to fix/adjust the engine tilt issue. Surprised no one has jumped on that and started offering taller engine mounts and possibly lower transmission mounts.
I saw it on turbomacncheese's thread so now I'm inspired to try. We'll see how it works out.
If you are thinking of an integrating a tablet take a look at Procision Auto's offering. He is a forum sponsor and all around good guy.
I can't wait to see how your build comes along.
Thanks, I have been keeping an eye on his progress. If he adds the traction control circuit I'll probably go that route with a Cobb AP unless someone comes up with an open source design I can build on my own.
I assume you've been in the Subaru scene for a while based on your choices of components, but either your HP numbers are really low or your parts are overkill (at least to me).
Don't get me wrong, I'd really love those choices in my daily, but I'm a bit over 300AWHP with a VF48 and all other bolt ons. I have ID1000s and a Blouch 1.5XTR ready to get me to 375+ AWHP but that can still work without decking and o-rings, smaller injectors (unless you want E-85), or worked over heads. You might be able to skip some of the engine work and go straight to the EFR with similar reliability and cost.
All that to say, make sure you don't compromise your DD drivability or else the car isn't going to be fun on a regular basis.
(Feel free to completely ignore my post though, it's completely your build and I'll support it because I still want to see how that would turn out)
I know they are low. I don't think I'm really going to need that much power in this car, but I got most of the stuff I listed in an abandoned project trade for some interior from the donor and a set of rims I wasn't using. Since the price was right I went ahead and got the block O ringed, bought cams, etc. to support 30-40% more HP than I think I will ever use. Hopefully that translates to reliability, but its not sleeved or closed deck or pinned mains so who knows, anything could happen. You are right though I may not be able to tune that much out of it, we'll see. I kept the compression low so I'm optimistic. I also have another Subie that would love to have that motor if it turns out to be too hot for the car.
I don't take offense to anyone trying to prevent me from making a mistake, I appreciate it. Thanks for making sure I'm not loopy (just crazy, not completely insane yet)
So tonight I setup Rasmus's bucket-o-doom and I have to say I'm impressed. Cost me 6 dollars worth of rebar and an old cat litter bucket. Cheap and easy, Love it!
FYI When looking for donors avoid cars young people have "rallied". There was about 50lbs of Michigan sand stuck to the underside and by the time I was done I had a pile of broken bolts. I also got a 2005 and FF doesn't make a 6 speed adapter for that year Gonna have to figure something out for it.
Thanks for making sure I'm not loopy (just crazy, not completely insane yet)
Keep in mind you just got advice from someone who's building up a flat plane crank, forged 5.0 with a standalone ECU not designed for it.... soooo, there's that hahaha
Hey do you still have that air handler from the donor? The climate control thingamajig that sits behind the radio? I saw it in the picture up there. I haven't figured out if I'm going to use mine or not, but at some point sitting on my shelf, the big white flapper door started just flapping around. If you still have it, would you mind taking a picture of whatever controls it and holds it shut? I'm not sure what broke or what I'm looking for. Thanks.
Keep in mind you just got advice from someone who's building up a flat plane crank, forged 5.0 with a standalone ECU not designed for it.... soooo, there's that hahaha
...Crazy like a fox. I've had 3 5.0's, great motor.
Hey do you still have that air handler from the donor? The climate control thingamajig that sits behind the radio? I saw it in the picture up there. I haven't figured out if I'm going to use mine or not, but at some point sitting on my shelf, the big white flapper door started just flapping around. If you still have it, would you mind taking a picture of whatever controls it and holds it shut? I'm not sure what broke or what I'm looking for. Thanks.
On mine there are flaps on both sides that are connected to a motor by some plastic linkage on one side. Here are a few pics.
Thanks for getting those pictures together. I thought for sure there would be something here... Inked20180203_234337_LI.jpg
Looks like the defrost door to me, so worst case is I could zip tie it shut. Does yours just flop around? But I guess the control must be external. Mine looks pretty much exactly like yours, except for some color differences, so that makes me feel good. Now, if I can just figure out how to use it. It sure is big, and I can see why people go aftermarket.
Thanks for getting those pictures together. I thought for sure there would be something here... Inked20180203_234337_LI.jpg
Looks like the defrost door to me, so worst case is I could zip tie it shut. Does yours just flop around? But I guess the control must be external. Mine looks pretty much exactly like yours, except for some color differences, so that makes me feel good. Now, if I can just figure out how to use it. It sure is big, and I can see why people go aftermarket.
No problem. I didn't see a big door on mine but there are 2 smaller rectangular doors and neither flop around. If you look at the black plastic bit to the left of your arrow there is a small spring behind it. Maybe it just came out. I'm out of town for the next few days but I'll pull it out and look again when I get back.
Quick update. I have been busy with work and haven't had much time to work on the car. I have put on the under car panels and painted some parts. I am also waiting on a couple parts for the motor so I can wrap that up, then on to steering and suspension.
Well, time flies when your buried at work. We've opened 2 new offices this year and are completing a new building on top of my regular stuff so I've got more work than I can do right now.
I'm still here chipping away at night when I can. I got all the suspension on. Had to do a little grinding on the back adapter plates to get them to fit the STI hubs, but it wasn't much trouble. Most of the spacers for the heim joints fit without modification, but the ones for the 2 upper trailing arms are going to have to be cut from some new stock. If anyone reading this is looking for a length of stainless spacer material that matches what FFR is using I found mine at onlinemetals.com, here's a link https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchan...=902&top_cat=0
The fronts were more difficult because I had to remove the plates from the inside of the strut mount to upper ball joint adapter, weld them to the outside and slot the upper holes some. It turned out pretty well. So far no major issues with the STI running gear.
I've been sandbagging on getting the motor done. Its the first one I've built mostly on my own and I am a perfectionist so it's taking forever. Time to put the intake on it and wrap it up. I also need to break open the transmission and see why FFR doesn't offer an adapter for the 05 6MT. I'm sure there is a good reason, but I'm not afraid to get in there and weld some stuff so I'll probably attempt that next after the motor. Hopefully I can get those 2 things done before new years, we'll see.
In other news I got Aero's old T4 mount twin scroll headers and a new efr7163 turbo so I'm putting them on and skipping the stock turbo and killer b headers. I'll put them on the other subie at some point, they are too nice to trade away. I gave up on the heated seats and got some nice Bride Kevlar Super Strada's and 1" sliders for them. You cant slide the passenger seat, but it makes them sit high enough that they clear the rear firewall. I may get a front mount fuel tank and modify the rear firewall so both seats slide, not sure yet.
Anyway, Cheers to everyone that's chipping away out there
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the reason why they don't offer an adapter is because of the DCCD center differential and the way the oil pump is designed on 04-05 STI. There's some workarounds for it I believe. Read this thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...nversion-Issue