Base kit pedal box

[bil1024]

Not sure if its a misprint on the order form, but does the base coupe come with the Wilwood pedal box ?

[David Hodgkins]

Good question. Eager to know...

[q4stix]

I asked about the missing radiator after I received my base kit and they said that and the pedal box were included and sent both without question. I'm guessing that's standard on all new Gen 3 Coupe kits now

[michael everson]

I would say yes since there is no way to fit a Mustang box to it.
Mike

[qwezxc12]

The Wilwood pedal box does come std on the Gen III coupe, both kits. I confirmed w/Jay @ FFR prior to ordering my base kit.

[bil1024]

Great thanks guys, starting to gather parts and info or a future build

[KirkS]

Does this mean that we're committed to manual brakes?

[bil1024]

Nope not at all, several builders have put in power steering , some used electric power steering

[edwardb]

Does this mean that we're committed to manual brakes?

No, not necessarily. There are at least two vendors I know of, Whitby and Forte, that will modify the Wilwood setup for power brakes. The individual master cylinders inside the pedal box are removed and a dual master cylinder is placed outside the footbox with a pushrod on the Wilwood pedal arm. I had the Forte modded one in my #7750 Roadster build with hydroboost. Worked great. You do give up the balance bar setup of the Wilwood design. So any required brake bias would need to be done in another way. Specific to the Gen 3 Coupe though, the area outside the front footbox where the dual master cylinder and booster would be installed is pretty limited. Just gave it the eyeball test. I'm guessing a hydroboost setup is going to be the best option.

Having said that, the right brakes properly setup with the right pads, etc. can be made to work very well without any boost. The pedal will be a little heavier, but otherwise just fine. I've had vaccum power, hydroboost power, and now running with no boost and the big Wilwood optional brakes on Roadster #8674. I'm very happy with. I don't miss the power from before at all. Like it well enough that my Gen 3 Coupe currently underway will also have manual brakes. Now power steering... that's a whole other discussion.

[David Williamson]

The frame is built for the Wilwood pedal set, you would have to cut and weld to fit anything else. Like Paul in the post above I am going with manual Wilwood brakes, mine are from Gordon Levy and nearly the same as the FFR option.
David W

[thriftychicken]

Since the subject has been brought up. My manual 11" wilwood/mustang cobra on the genIII are poor at best. Pedal is hard and I can't get it to stop very well. It won't even skid the fronts while in reverse. Do I need something other than stock pads or is this the nature of the beast?

[edwardb]

Since the subject has been brought up. My manual 11" wilwood/mustang cobra on the genIII are poor at best. Pedal is hard and I can't get it to stop very well. It won't even skid the fronts while in reverse. Do I need something other than stock pads or is this the nature of the beast?

A lot of variables so hard to give a specific answer. Also not sure why you're trying to skid in reverse. But ok. Manual brakes by nature will require more pedal effort. But properly setup can be made to work very well. How many miles on the brakes? Did you bed them per the Wilwood instructions? That can make a difference. Something more than stock pads can make a huge difference. You have options so no, it doesn't have to be the nature of the beast. One other point, with the big and usually sticky tires we run, these cars may not skid as easily as your DD. But they should give you lots of stopping power.

[thriftychicken]

Good info. Thanks.
The reverse skid is to emphasize how weak the braking is. Anything will lock up the front tires when stabbing the brakes in reverse (it just has the cheaper NITTOs on it). I have only gone around the block a few times and I'd be afraid to put any miles on it with these brakes. It should stop better than this with no prep on the pads/rotors.

[edwardb]

Good info. Thanks.
The reverse skid is to emphasize how weak the braking is. Anything will lock up the front tires when stabbing the brakes in reverse (it just has the cheaper NITTOs on it). I have only gone around the block a few times and I'd be afraid to put any miles on it with these brakes. It should stop better than this with no prep on the pads/rotors.

I don't know what to add. If you haven't driven manual brakes before (or for a while) maybe it's more pedal pressure than you're used to. But then again, maybe something isn't working right. If you have a Wilwood pedal box, it may not be set up right or may need adjusting. If you have a Mustang pedal box, those do take a brake pedal mod to work OK as manual brakes. Those were OE as power, and need to be modded for manual use. Probably that doesn't apply, but will mention it anyway. Assuming all is OK, you may need to go to a more aggressive pad. But I wouldn't start there. Driving a few blocks isn't going to tell you much and it certainly won't get the pads seated. Have you read the Wilwood instructions for bedding the brakes? It's pretty aggressive. And it does make a difference.

[Mark Reynolds]

Thrifty Chicken it sounds like you may be having an issue with the balance bar adjustment or maybe the front and rear are plumbed to the wrong dia Master Cylinder?

[thriftychicken]

It's a Wilwood pedal box and the small master is on the back. Balance bar is set up for a harder pedal if I recall. I assumed that would mean more front bias. I have not read the bedding info. so I will check that first. If anyone has a balance bar setup that is proven to work for them, I'd like to know how it is set up. I don't believe I've ever driven anything with manual brakes that I know of, but my '65 coronet had crappy drums that worked much better than this.

[edwardb]

It's a Wilwood pedal box and the small master is on the back. Balance bar is set up for a harder pedal if I recall. I assumed that would mean more front bias. I have not read the bedding info. so I will check that first. If anyone has a balance bar setup that is proven to work for them, I'd like to know how it is set up. I don't believe I've ever driven anything with manual brakes that I know of, but my '65 coronet had crappy drums that worked much better than this.

You're misunderstanding the instructions. That explanation is showing what happens when dissimilar master cylinder sizes are used front to back. Not the balance bar setup specifically. The build manual shows initially setting up the balance bar (1) centered, and (2) with specified clearances. I believe it's a copy of these instructions from Wilwood. http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds252.pdf. Make sure yours is set up exactly as explained.

The different master cylinder sizes handle the front to rear bias OK in my experience. You can fine tune further by adjusting the balance bar away from center. But that's not recommended before road testing and break-in. I've personally not had to adjust mine from the center position. But I am only a 100% street cruiser. Guys tracking their cars I'm sure are tweaking the balance a lot.

I don't have anything else to add. I know for a fact the 6-piston 11-inch Wilwoods in the front are very strong. Have had them on several builds. I've only paired them with Wilwoods in the back. I don't have experience with the Cobra rear brakes. You may end up with Wilwoods there too to get them the brakes the way you like. But as I've already said, wouldn't suggest it's necessary this early in your build.

[dpariso]

Anyone have problems with the gas pedal flopping forward?
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[nskaats]

I'm glad I read this. Anyone else have any input? When I ordered my kit I was told it didn't come with the base kit and was charged $725 for it.