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Thread: TKO 600 Small Oil leak on center gasket

  1. #1
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    TKO 600 Small Oil leak on center gasket

    I have a small leak from the middle gasket on the TKO 600 trans. Finding small spots of fluid in the garage. Only leaks while running. Anyone have an issue like this?
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Unfortunately, this has been reported on the forums several times with Tremec transmissions. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...KO-600-Leaking!. Another one: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...-600-leak.html. There are others. Many reports are inadequate anaerobic sealant between the cases.
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  3. #3
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    TKO 600 Trans leak

    Earlier I posted about my TKO 600 trans leaking at the tail shaft joint. I contacted Tremec (email) and explained that I purchased the trans one year ago, licensed the car in Sept and only has 500 miles on the car. Found out the warranty is ONLY 90 DAYS! I asked what type of gasket sealer is used and the only response I received was:

    Good morning David
    The TKO-series uses anaerobic sealer (similar to Permatex 518) at that joint
    Thank you

    I did find a repair manual on-line and can repair this myself (not something I'd recommend if you don't have trans experience). Also looks like I can do this while still in the car, still attached to the bell housing. More to follow.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 02-20-2018 at 11:36 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  4. #4
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    TKO 600 Trans leak - Repair

    MY TKO 600 Trans leak is now repaired.
    NOTE: Transmission leaking at rear extension case to front case joint.
    Step 1 - Support engine/trans at the bell housing. Remove trans mount. Remove drive shaft.
    Step 2 - Shift trans to neutral.
    Step 3 - Remove four bolts and middle inspection cover. Remove six bolts and shifter tower housing.
    Step 4 - Using a 3/16 pin punch, mark punch with tape as shown. Outer lugs - .825. Center lug - 1.150. This will drive the pins through the shifter shaft but not out of the lugs. NOTE: DO NOT DRIVE THE PINS ALL THE WAY OUT OF THE SHIFTER LUGS. Doing so will require removal of rear extension case to retrieve the pins - NOT POSSIBLE WHILE TRANS IS STILL IN THE CAR.
    Step 5 - Remove outer shifter lugs first, then the center lug. NOTE: You'll need to move the shafts forward to get the lugs off the shafts. Do NOT remove the grease on the lugs.
    Step 6 - Remove the six bolts holding the rear extension case. Separate rear case from front case.
    Step 7 - Inspect the O-Rings on the Shifter shafts. Replace as needed.
    Step 8 - Clean gasket surfaces and apply new gasket seal, Anaerobic Gasket Maker. Instructions call for only an 1/8" bead. NOTE: Do NOT let the sealer "Skin Over". Apply sealant and reassemble in less than five minutes.
    Step 9 - Re-install rear case, install six bolts and torque to 42-50 Ft-lbs.
    Step 10 - Re-install the shifter lugs, center lug first. Move each shift shaft/lug back to the neutral position after installation. NOTE: Start the roll pins on the top side of the lugs while on the work bench, slide in place and drive pins in.
    Step 11 - Apply RTV and Re-install middle cover and Shifter Tower, torque to 18-22 ft-lbs.
    Step 12 - Wait 24 hours then fill with appropriate fluid.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 02-27-2018 at 09:31 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  5. #5
    2bking's Avatar
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    When the tail housing is separated, there is a possibility the counter shaft bearing race will slide from its slip fit blind bore. The preload shims are behind the race and will fall out also. Tapping or banging on the tail housing after it's separated can also dislodge the bearing race. I've had mine apart several times and can assure the 24 hour or longer wait is necessary to keep the transmission fluid from attacking and defeating the sealant regardless of the type used. The left and right shifter lugs are identical and can be flipped side to side putting the pins (not completely driven out) back on top to drive back into place.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  6. #6
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2bking View Post
    When the tail housing is separated, there is a possibility the counter shaft bearing race will slide from its slip fit blind bore. The preload shims are behind the race and will fall out also. Tapping or banging on the tail housing after it's separated can also dislodge the bearing race. I've had mine apart several times and can assure the 24 hour or longer wait is necessary to keep the transmission fluid from attacking and defeating the sealant regardless of the type used. The left and right shifter lugs are identical and can be flipped side to side putting the pins (not completely driven out) back on top to drive back into place.
    Hope you mean this counter shaft bearing race. It's in place.

    From 2bking: "When the tail housing is separated, there is a possibility the counter shaft bearing race will slide from its slip fit blind bore. The preload shims are behind the race and will fall out also."
    Thanks for pointing this out. NOTE: Shims and race are in place.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 03-01-2018 at 07:22 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

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