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Thread: 11.65 rear brakes from FFR-Rotors not centered

  1. #1
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    11.65 rear brakes from FFR-Rotors not centered

    I have installed the 11.65 rear brakes from FFR per the instructions but after getting them installed, even with the spacer that they included, the rotor does not seem centered in the caliper. Should I just go find more washers/spacers to try to get it centered or is there another option?



    Brakes.jpg
    Ryan
    33 Hot Rod
    350 SBC with TKO 500, 3 link rear

  2. #2
    Senior Member mkassab's Avatar
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    I believe you're good to go... i.e., you have a single piston pushing on the inside of the rotor with the "monkey arm" pulling the outside pad against the rotor. Without pressing on the brake pedal, is the inside pad free from the rotor and allows the rotor to spin with only slight rubbing or no rub at all? If yes, all good.

  3. #3
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    I would have to give that a try.
    Ryan
    33 Hot Rod
    350 SBC with TKO 500, 3 link rear

  4. #4
    Senior Member mkassab's Avatar
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    Yes, if it rotates freely as it should... you're good. The whole thing (i.e,. piston and monkey arm) is free floating and self centering. The monkey arm can't press any harder than the piston side. The piston site pad would make contact first with the rotor and then the resistance from the inside will transfer to the monkey arm and give equal pressure to the outside. Hope that make sense.

    Mark

  5. #5
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    Mark thank you so much. I can spin them pretty easily, but the pads do touch on both sides.
    Ryan
    33 Hot Rod
    350 SBC with TKO 500, 3 link rear

  6. #6
    Senior Member mkassab's Avatar
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    disc pad always have light touch on the rotors.... on all cars.

  7. #7
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    In searching old post for rear brake questions, I found this, and have question. I am working on the new '35 Pickup, but have the same FFR supplied rear suspension as you described. I have shimmed also to get the caliper to not rub on the rotors. But, when I get everything assembled, my rotor will barely move using a large wrench on the lug nuts.

    Do you have the vented rotors, verses the solid used in most mustang applications? My supplied rotor is vented and 1.04", 26+mm, and I wonder if it is too wide for the caliper. The rotor is Chinese generic with only part no. 16248 on the box. So I have nothing to compare it to. I have to force the caliper/pads on with a rubber hammer, and it appears all the movement in the caliper is used up.

    Any comments.

    Ralph

  8. #8
    Senior Member KenWilkinson's Avatar
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    SAME problem! I called tech support, and they told me to use Needle nose pliers to rotate the piston a half turn I think clockwise. Make sure that you have the "V" in the same position 6 and 12 o'clock

  9. #9
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    Even though my brakes looked a little off center, the wheels actually rotated just fine. So per the instructions from the post above I just left them as is.
    Ryan
    33 Hot Rod
    350 SBC with TKO 500, 3 link rear

  10. #10
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    Ken, I wondered if the pistons were shipped fully retracted. I watched you-tubes of this, and I was surprised that you had to screw the piston back in, it does not just compress by hand like all the other's I am familiar with. I certainly believed the new calipers would be shipped fully retracted, but I hope that solves the issue.

    Those caliper clips are another issue entirely.

    Ralph

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