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Thread: Rivet vs. rivnuts on the firewall

  1. #1
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    Rivet vs. rivnuts on the firewall

    Hello!
    I'm making slow progress, but all progress is progress. Anyway . . .

    I riveted the floor in place, very effectively. It was pointed out that may be an issue with the seat brackets, and I MAY have to drill them out to do again. I don't want to have the issue of drilling out rivets, because sheet metal is in the way for a later step.

    Any suggestions about which panels should be attached with rivnuts instead of rivets, so I can get them off later?

    Thank you as always.

  2. #2
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    The seats are a royal PITA no matter how you do them. There's just no access to any hardware. I welded nuts onto my brackets and had a few "special" wrenches made to get my donor ones in and out before I switched to kirkeys.

    Anyway, I initially rivited everything on my car as the instruction manual detailed. I've done a lot of serious upgrades, engine work, and transmission replacement and the only thing I've ever regretted not having riv-nutted was the side sails. I know people do every panel but I really can't figure out why. Think of working on any other OEM car and there are very few if any things that would be made easier by going through the front firewall or fender liner. (In fact, the only thing I can think of that's done commonly that way is exhaust stud replacement on old Ford Super-Dutys.) Yeah, it might save you a few seconds later in life, but you'll never come close to recouping the time you spent tapping or nutting every panel.

  3. #3
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    I used lots of button head screws holding panels on my build and very few rivets. Yes, it's a pain to drill and tap or add nutserts for hundreds of screws but for me it's really the only thing that makes sense. Many of these panels (including the firewall) have been on and off several times during the build. And since all the panels that cover the roll cage and many parts of the chassis have to come off every three years for chassis certification, button head screws and 1/4-turn fasteners are all over my build.

    However, if I was going to assemble a car once and never dream of removing panels again I'd make good use of rivets. They're quick, easy, and cheap. And they work well.

  4. #4
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    Get some cleco fasteners. They are invaluable on projects that require assembly and disassembly as the project progresses. Going together for the final time is the only time you should be popping rivets.

  5. #5
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    I riveted in the front firewall and side sheet metal. Pretty much everything else is attached with rivnuts. I did rivet the floor eventually but it was one of the very last pieces after I had rigged up a way to attach the seats from the bottom (I welded on some nuts like Phil). I also attached a rear firewall between the fuel tank and engine with rivnuts. I agree with Lance on getting some clecos for helping attach sheet metal.

  6. #6
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    I know this thread is about rivets vs rivnuts, but consider mounting your seats so they can be installed and removed easily from above, without removing the bottom pan . . . ever. I bolted a steel piece (2 x 12 x 1/8 thick) to the chassis floor with spacers so there's a 1/8" gap at the front. Then, to the seat bottom I bolted a similar steel piece (2 x 10 x 1/8") so there is a 1/8" gap at the back. Next, push the seat down and back until the two steel bars lock together by overlapping. Finally, bolt the front of the seat down with 2 rivnuts to lock the seat in place. Now, I can remove each seat from above by removing just 2 bolts and sliding it slightly forward. This is for seats that do not adjust, of course, and this may not meet race requirements, but I don't care because both seats are staying where I want them. If a passenger complains, they should build their own car.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by lance corsi View Post
    Get some cleco fasteners. They are invaluable on projects that require assembly and disassembly as the project progresses. Going together for the final time is the only time you should be popping rivets.
    Yeah, I wish I had left my firewall clecoed a while longer. Jumped the gun, popped it in, then had to drill it out.

    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    If a passenger complains, they should build their own car.
    My GUY!!!

  8. #8
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    You will need to redo everything on your build several times, so start out with it "finger tight"
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  9. #9
    Moonlight Performance
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    I used rivet nuts only for the under-seat floor panels, the panel under the battery, and the firewall. Everything else was riveted.

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