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Thread: Brian's Northern CA Gen 3 Coupe Build

  1. #41
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    It's a relatively new feature from Factory Five. Not sure how many finished builds there will be.
    Guess I get to test pilot. Maybe it will let me run some GT350R 19" wheels.

    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  2. #42
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    For what it's worth, there might be an issue opening the hood at "race" ride height without the nose hitting the ground. I think that's why F5 ran the air jacks on their Coupe-R.

  3. #43
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    I'll report back. I am going to test fit the hood in the next few weeks, so I'll test then. I have 17s, 18s and 19s to test with, so I'll send pics of all clearances. Thanks for the input.
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  4. #44
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Front suspension, brakes and sway bar

    Okay here's some more progress. I got all the front suspension installed and most of the sway bar. I'm again missing some small items. I keep borrowing from other bags in the kit, which is screwing me up. So this week I'll button this up and stop robbing Peter to pay Paul. The geometry looks a little funny to me, so I'm leaving all adjust suspension items semi-loose until it's on the ground with the motor and interior installed. Then I'll get the geometry close and finalize it once it's together and painted. Pretty routine but always open to comments, suggestions, etc. I'll button up the sway bar this week and throw a couple photos up.

    NEXT: Steering column, pedals, brake lines, clutch line, fuel lines, rivet in engine panels and cover them with thermal padding to keep heat out of the foot wells. Stay tuned!

    IMG_1416.JPG

    IMG_1417.JPG

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    3 link finished up:

    IMG_1425.JPG

    IMG_1426.JPG

    IMG_1429.JPG

    IMG_1430.JPG

    IMG_1433.JPG
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  5. #45
    Senior Member Clover's Avatar
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    Coming along nicely and you have sure pulled to a good lead ahead of me. Can you give us some more details on the SVE Cobra Big Brake Kit? It looks like a nice upgrade over the 11 inch standard front brakes and I bet it is more affordable then the Willwoods. I have seen others mention them on the forum but I have never seen anywhere that gave much detail. Thanks for sharing.

  6. #46
    Senior Member stack's Avatar
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    I sure someone will chime in but i think your upper control arms are on wrong. You have the upper ball joint pointing inward instead of outward. I have not used those mustang spindles in a long time so double check me





    stack
    Last edited by stack; 08-06-2018 at 02:39 PM.
    FFR MKI Roadster FFR2202K Built in 2000 sold
    FFR Hot Rod #39 under construction

  7. #47
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clover View Post
    Coming along nicely and you have sure pulled to a good lead ahead of me. Can you give us some more details on the SVE Cobra Big Brake Kit? It looks like a nice upgrade over the 11 inch standard front brakes and I bet it is more affordable then the Willwoods. I have seen others mention them on the forum but I have never seen anywhere that gave much detail. Thanks for sharing.
    I had the Cobra Brakes on my donor. It's the only used part I installed. I LOVED THEM on the donor/race car. They're not as pretty as the Willwoods... but after running Willwoods on my last two vehicles (C5 and 68 Nova) I remain completely unimpressed by them. They work well, but I've always ended up having to shim and move things around, and they're measurements for wheel fitment weren't accurate and almost cost me a pair of 19" CCWs. So... there ya go. Dollar for Dollar, these are EXCELLENT program brakes for small dollars. I'll upgrade them latter if needed.
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  8. #48
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stack View Post
    I sure someone will chime in but i think your upper control arms are on wrong. You have the upper ball joint pointing inward instead of outward. I have not used those mustang spindles in a long time so double check me

    stack
    I actually tried flipping them and the inward angle is too extreme, the camber goes crazy negative. It looks a bit off, but geometry wise seems more correct than the other way. They also came assembled as currently installed. However, I still agree with you... visually I was a bit thrown off. If some one knows differently or has a proper installed pic which varies from mine, please.. I'm all ears and eyes. Thanks for chiming in!
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  9. #49
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheBabyBadger View Post
    I actually tried flipping them and the inward angle is too extreme, the camber goes crazy negative. It looks a bit off, but geometry wise seems more correct than the other way. They also came assembled as currently installed. However, I still agree with you... visually I was a bit thrown off. If some one knows differently or has a proper installed pic which varies from mine, please.. I'm all ears and eyes. Thanks for chiming in!
    I think you need to flip those UCA's so the ball joints are point out like Stack said. They're standard off-the-shelf parts and unfortunately are assembled by the supplier upside down for our application. It's not specifically mentioned in the build manual. But multiple pictures and descriptions show the ball joint installed this way. I haven't used donor spindles since my first build, and these are different UCA's than they were using then. But the manual draws no distinction on how this should be assembled with donor vs. FF spindles. I wouldn't draw any conclusion on how your suspension "looks" until you done an actual alignment, including at ride height which makes a difference. Also wouldn't draw any conclusions on how they were packaged and received, for the reasons noted. You're in good company FWIW. Multiple builds have had the same do-over. If in doubt, suggest you call FF.

    But having said that, using the upper "race" mounting holes introduces another variable that I'm not sure about. Curious if FF has really considered the use of those holes with donor spindles. Looks to me that with the LCA basically horizontal (where it usually ends up at ride height) the UCA will be pointed up at a pretty extreme angle. Not sure how this plays with the ball joint angle on the donor spindle adapters.
    Last edited by edwardb; 08-06-2018 at 04:56 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  10. #50
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    I took into consideration the angles once installed and on the ground. These keeps the LCAs the most flat once installed, assuming they go upward once on the ground.

    I know everything except the ball is installed correctly given not only photos, but the control are pitch down and in when flipped. I'm gonna to submit this in Ask a FF Tech and circle back. Thanks for the input. This is why nothing is torqued!
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  11. #51
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Suspension Resolution

    So here's most of the resolution:

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Schenck View Post
    That picture looks like the lower arm, steering rack, and shock are in the race ride height position, they should be in the lowest set of holes. Then also the upper arm is in the FFR spindle street location and not above the tabs like it should be for a donor spindle. The lower arm should be in the lower set of holes for street ride height, but the upper arm needs to mount on top of the bracket for the SN95 spindles.
    Basically when using the SN95 donor spindles, it's not possible to use the upper (making the vehicle lower) ride height holes, and the upper control arm actually goes ABOVE the sandwich tabs it's installed into, which is odd, but correct. So I'll do that and flip the ball joints and should be good to go. I'll post some follow up pictures as well. Thanks for the input. If something about any of isn't clear or you have questions, please ask away and I'll do my best to answer those questions. Here's a link to Jim the FFR tech answering my questions:

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...221#post335221
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  12. #52
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    ***delay***

    FYI Tore my right bicep (distal joint tear off the radius) last weekend helping an older gentleman pick his GIANT Victory motorcycle off the ground after he spilled it. Going in for Surgery tomorrow so a SMALL delay in the build. Updates week after next.
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  13. #53
    Senior Member Clover's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear that but it was certainly nice of you to help the guy get his bike back upright. Good luck with surgery. That good mojo should pay off.

  14. #54
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clover View Post
    Sorry to hear that but it was certainly nice of you to help the guy get his bike back upright. Good luck with surgery. That good mojo should pay off.
    Thanks! I hope so. Really a bummer. I can't do much without a second hand... and the wife is 8 months preggo... so not much of a garage helper. I'll be back on track soon and make huge leaps and bounds was I'm off on FMLA for my daughter's birth.
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  15. #55
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Back at it!

    Okay so I wasn't TOTALLY GONE... but i was definitely slowed down. We welcomed our daughter Aubree on September 21st, 2018 at 844am! AND, for those following along, I was in a brace after surgery till this last Friday, which has been my largest obstacle to date. So in between her sleeping and feeding and going to physical therapy... I was actually able to make some progress. As always, just a quick synopsis of progress and then I'll post the pics and I'm happy to answer questions, but I figure less is more, since you only REALLY want the pictures anyway! Please feel free to fire away if something doesn't look right, looks AWESOME, or you're not sure what it looks like! HA!

    I got the suspension sorted with some FFR Tech Support. I got some information related to a Roadster that had me confused. So I'll begin with where I left off and post pictures moving forward in time. All I have left to do with the suspension is bolt wheels on, which I haven't ordered, and torque everything correctly, but it's all mostly tight. Suspension shouldn't be final torqued until it's in its resting position, or it can bind and squeak. I think I'm pretty set on a set of SVE 350s, which are GT350R replicas. Just wider, with the correct offset, but I have my 3-spokes to roll on for now. Tires most likely will be some sticky Dunlops or INVOs. I wont drive it much and prefer she sticks well, so super sticky is fine and tread wear can be down around 100-200.

    Motor is prepped and ready to mate to transmission, pedal installed in car, working on brake and clutch pedal assembly this weekend to get installed, steering this weekend, I just need to make a few grinds/notches for steering rack boots not to rub then I can tighten everything down and install wheel and such. Also planning to run my fuel and brake lines this weekend and install regulator. I assembled trunk hinges (after painting), assembled MAF, and probably some other stuff. Lots of small painting projects. Found a *****ING 2 in 1 paint/primer for $1.50/can. It's acrylic, etching, and cheap. From a foot away can't tell I didn't spend a bundle on powder coat. I ordered my heat shielding for the engine bay covers, too. Plan is to stick motor and trans next week and start her up by Sunday eve! WOOT! Anyway, that's all I've got for now. Thanks for tuning in!

    Moroso pick up before pan goes on. Mounts installed, had to take them back off to install spacers, oops!

    IMG_1856.jpg

    Compressor installed. Oil pan and new gasket/windage tray installed.

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    The A/C Belt probably took me as long as everything else. It was insane. Next photos has my solution. DO NOT order tools to do this, you wont need em. Ask me how I know...

    fullsizeoutput_561.jpg

    Believe it or not, if you've tried this, or given up trying this. I stuck a flat head exactly as photo shows, and rotated the crank close wise. I was sure it would rip the belt off, but it didn't. I was shocked. So it's on.

    fullsizeoutput_563.jpg

    I went a different route with my pedal. I trimmed it as per instructed, but then notched the bottom and drilled a hole through, then trimmed out some excess and retained the pedal. I LOVE IT. Also, it can be spaced forward to brought in if desired, check out the following pics. The FFR pedal install, honestly, just looked hoaky to me, no offense to those running it. I may try to make the other pedals work, may not. We will see. I love the BOSS/Mustang pedals. Just something different...

    IMG_1878.jpg

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    Here you can see the oil pressure sensor, low oil light sensor, water temp sender, and mounts installed correctly. I'll stop here to make a point TO THOSE WAITING ON KIT ARRIVAL: I HIGHLY recommend doing a "decent inventory" when your kit arrives, but do not try to inventory every nut, bolt and item. Lay everything out and check for MAJOR COMPONENTS and CUSTOM PARTS, and such. I know some one will disagree here... but let me explain: I did a CRAZY inventory of EVERY SINGLE BAG and nuts and bolt and piece of hardware when it arrived. All of them. BUT, I've still been to the store a hundred times. FFR does a great job but they're human. I've had the wrong brass fittings, LCA bolts, not enough nuts, been short a shim, wrong thread pitch, bolt too short, stripped bolt, ETC ETC. You will kill yourself counting thousands of parts. SAVE YOUR TIME, and just head to your local hardware store, it's time better spent on the back end. They didn't forget anything I couldn't go down the street to get handled. BUT... that being said... I'm making a list and keeping receipts, but I have a lot of incorrect hardware. Anyway... moving on...

    Tried to rotate it, had no luck. It's upside down. Enjoy!

    IMG_1885.jpg

    Oh yeah... and since I was injured, gimpy and bored... This also happened ($10k PLUS back of MSRP/sticker BRAND NEW). Figured I may need a tow vehicle. Or just why not!

    IMG_1577.jpg
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  16. #56
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    A Question for Experienced Builders

    So I'm chugging along, just getting as close as I can while waiting for more components to show up. I'll post some pics of the brakes and fuel system when it's done. Steering is in. So are most of the braking components. Need to run lines. Waiting on clutch master. Need to pull body off and insulate the roof and install the headliner then set it aside and turn this thing into a go kart this weekend! Probably not, but goals are good! Couple in process pics:

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    IMG_1919.jpg

    AND HERE'S MY QUESTION:

    Even at a staggering 5'10" tall... these seats seem too far forward a bit. The corner of the body prevents the seat from going backward any more. Will these feel better once the interior is together, or can I gain some room by trimming the corner of the body shown below? Does the seat "need" to be a certain distance from the cage? Am I being too picky? Would love to see what some of you guys have done, or if I need to just mount them and deal with the confined space. Thanks!

    IMG_1916.jpg

    IMG_1915.jpg

    More to come this weekend! Thanks for any and all insight!
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  17. #57
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    If you can move the seat inboard a little it will fit. I ended up triming the body on the left side a bit to fit the seat in. I also got a set of Kirkey seat back mounts, one of my friends found the seat moved when it was only bolted to the floor and it was hitting the roll cage at the back. He actually bent the steel floor pan a little.
    David W
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
    Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019

  18. #58
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Williamson View Post
    If you can move the seat inboard a little it will fit. I ended up triming the body on the left side a bit to fit the seat in. I also got a set of Kirkey seat back mounts, one of my friends found the seat moved when it was only bolted to the floor and it was hitting the roll cage at the back. He actually bent the steel floor pan a little.
    David W
    Thanks for the tip. I'm probably going to do the same. I'll mount them with the body removed and then trim what I need to based on that. I'm going to order those brackets though, I do not want to damage the floor, thanks for the heads up.
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  19. #59
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Fuel, brakes and clutch

    Making more progress. Main brake lines run. Will post pics and always happy to answer specifics.

    Because Paul is a pro, I borrowed his location for the Fuel pressure regulator. Probably going to be tight, but I like the angles. ordered a 45* fitting to keep the hoses a bit more straight.

    IMG_1935.jpg

    Custom made a bracket for the Tilton shorty reservoir. It will handle F/R brakes as well as clutch. Clutch line is black to avoid confusion.

    IMG_1932.jpg

    Bought a nutsert tool. I really like the idea of being able to remove all items. Seems convenient in case I need to work on individual items. Will most likely do the same for the FPR. $60 on Amazon including a bunch of serts. Cant beat it.

    IMG_1936.jpg

    Really happy with the finished product! Clean. Simple. Serviceable. Oh... and painted black.

    IMG_1937.jpg

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    Brake lines run along drive side. Self tapped, interlocked tie downs. NO RATTLE and looks clean. Just have to connect filter and lines to feed and return at tank this weekend with body off. Couple shots.

    IMG_1951.jpg

    IMG_1952.jpg

    IMG_1954.jpg
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  20. #60
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Decisions....

    So... not that I need to decide this asap... but I'm playing with the aluminum panels a lot. This is a California, non-coastal car, so while oxidation is normal on aluminum I shouldn't have much and shouldn't have any dull panels for a long time. When I do, cleaning should be simple. I like the PURITY of this car, Coyote aside! I thought about polishing the panels but it's a LOT of work. So I prepped one, cleared one, and left one 100% raw. Not sure which Direction I want to go... decisions decisions... lemme know what you guys think! On track for install of motor this weekend. Hopefully I can hear her run by NEXT weekend. Picked up an investment property and getting keys tomorrow to start demo, so this may once again hit the back burner. We will see. Still making good progress, IMHO.

    These are both covers for "strut towers" (the footwell covers) so since they are mirrors I'm practicing on the bottom sides so I can flip them if necessary. Panel on BOTTOM is "brushed" no clear, and on the TOP it's cleared with high temp enamel. It REALLY shows the scratches, but gives it character.

    Clear coat is good, but it scratches easily. Aluminum in the area I'm in has almost zero salt exposure and is almost maintenance free.. so less work but also a more pure product. Because after all.... #RACECAR

    IMG_1946.jpg

    Here are three panels. Brushed on left. Cleared in the middle (and underneath). No prep at all on the right. I personally like the brushed looked, but all the panels look awesome. By leaving them untouched, they can be cleaned and textured later very easily as well... so I'm still at a loss.

    IMG_1949.jpg
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  21. #61
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    On my Mkll that I built 14 years ago I mostly just cleaned the aluminum and it all looks good, dull finish. Our climate is quite dry here as well. A few panels I hand polished with Mother's aluminum polish, no clear and they still look good. Remember you will not have access to much of the aluminum after the engine is in place. On my coupe I had all the visible aluminum powder coated, with the big hood more of the engine bay is visible than on a Cobra and the smooth finish of the powder coating is easier to clean especially in the wheel wells. Just what I did.
    David W
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
    Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019

  22. #62
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    How did you prep the one on the left? I like the left one better. Been looking at mine too. I think i am gonna leave the dash aluminum also. Alot are painting them black. Still not sure. I used a wool cloth on my dash. It looks ok. Im in Canada so there already has been oxidation in the year that i have been doing my build.

  23. #63
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Williamson View Post
    On my Mkll that I built 14 years ago I mostly just cleaned the aluminum and it all looks good, dull finish. Our climate is quite dry here as well. A few panels I hand polished with Mother's aluminum polish, no clear and they still look good. Remember you will not have access to much of the aluminum after the engine is in place. On my coupe I had all the visible aluminum powder coated, with the big hood more of the engine bay is visible than on a Cobra and the smooth finish of the powder coating is easier to clean especially in the wheel wells. Just what I did.
    David W
    Definitely a good point. I will rubberized undercoat all "wheel well" items. Looks clean and dulls the sound of rocks and stuff.


    Quote Originally Posted by Automan View Post
    How did you prep the one on the left? I like the left one better. Been looking at mine too. I think i am gonna leave the dash aluminum also. A lot are painting them black. Still not sure. I used a wool cloth on my dash. It looks ok. Im in Canada so there already has been oxidation in the year that i have been doing my build.
    The one on the left is just grey scotch bright up and down. Clear coat is okay but I don't like the finish. I may just have them powder coated to a matte or satin finish. The can clear looks like garbage and has orange peel. I don't know. Still up and down.

    My dash will be done in leather and trimmed with blue stitching, as well as the aluminum seats redone with suede and trimmed in leather, same blue stitching. I will cover the center console in leather/suede/blue stitching as well. As much as I like the aluminum interior... for resale value it will look much more complete with it covered. and it's not really something that can be done after the fact. I want the inside to look nice. From the bottom up, I have the FFR carpet kit to complete. I may leave the rear aluminum exposed or keep the carpet removable, still unsure.

    Thanks for chiming in! Posting more tonight...
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
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  24. #64
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Hard lines!

    Well, I installed my brake lines, or most of them. The ones provided don't quite do the trick, so I ran what I could and ordered a flare tool and more line, so I guess it's a completion project for another day. Upside... ran enough lines to install engine and trans! Front done, minus one line into union, and rears ran to the back, clutch will install once in the chassis so my location is nails with panels removed. You get it... Now that the end points are out of my way, I'll remove the body and get this go karting in the next couple days... weeks... months... it'll be somewhere on the road paved in good intentions! Enjoy... Oh and something else showed up...

    56211269743__97B8E04C-112F-41DD-84EA-E965D4F9889D.jpg

    56211283540__01DEB47C-DE51-46E1-8520-A6C494930ABD.JPG

    I'm actually exhausted... more tomorrow! (messed up huh?)
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  25. #65
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Brake Lines and wheels

    Finally got the lines mostly done. Need to custom route, bend and flare a few today/tonight. Working on getting motor and trans ready to install. Enjoy!

    I used the FFR supplied tabs and welded them below my UCA sandwich mount. Keeps them out of the way and secured. Not a large space to get my welder in!

    IMG_1971.jpg

    Same pic, opposite side, same deal.

    IMG_1972.jpg

    Lines installed very cleanly under and across engine bay up to T just above the UCA mount on the drivers side to give me a straight shot back to the master cylinders.

    IMG_1979.jpg

    Still need to cut and flare this line, but it's all in place.

    IMG_1980.jpg

    Nice and tidy. Rear brake line is run out the footwell where two panels meet (which I'll trim and pad) and near the fuel lines, I will secure it and route it when I remove the body, before I install the engine and trans.

    IMG_1981.jpg

    Another shot from the front. Will most likely never see this again, so I'm enjoying showing off the pics!

    IMG_1982.jpg

    AND... on to wheels...
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
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  26. #66
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Wheels and tires

    So I chose to run the SVE 350s. They're 18x9 and 18X10(.5 actually). Here are some specs on the wheels:

    Wheel Specs from Late Model Restoration:

    Size: 18x9
    Backspace: 5.9"
    Offset: +24mm
    Weight: 21.77lbs

    Size: 18x10
    Backspace: 6.3"
    Offset: +20mm
    Weight: 23.94lbs

    Fitment Note
    -Will clear big brake packages.
    -Spline drive lug nuts are highly recommended for installation.

    Nitto NT05 Tires
    This kit comes pre-mounted and balanced with Nitto NT05 tires. These tires are a D.O.T. compliant, maximum performance tire that is designed using advanced computer simulation and extensive on-track testing. This Nitto tire provides your Mustang with the increased traction it needs both on, and off the track. The tire comes molded at 7/32 of an inch and features a unique reinforced belt package to provide improved traction and high-speed stability.

    Tread wear: 200 - Traction: AA - Temperature: A

    Overall I an REALL happy with the selection. They look EVEN BETTER in person. FYI, the set on their site only includes 285s, but they were really easy to work with when I called in and STILL gave me a screaming "package deal" with the modified rears! I went with 295s, but will up those to 305s on the next set. I was worried the sidewall wouldn't look and perform right being so large on a 10" wide rim, but measuring them revealed they are 10.5" actual width and I had some MM left to go. Dang it!

    Anyway... the suspension in the rear is on the upper (lowest setting) and you can see I still have a ton of room. The spring is seated, but not lowered or raised, and the car is resting on the rhino ramps. I suspect it will lower and settle a bit with the engine and trans installed and after it's drive, but most of that weight is over the front end, so I'm leaving this as my static "0" for now. I will most likely run .5-1.0" spacers once I get everything dialed, just depends how much the car squats and settles. Obviously the goal here is to get as wide and low as possible without rubbing or affecting driving, to some extent. Here are some quick prelim pics. More to come!

    fullsizeoutput_5c2.jpg

    fullsizeoutput_5c4.jpg

    fullsizeoutput_5c6.jpg

    To give you an idea of the width of these wheels, these are the FRONTS. Lovin' em!

    fullsizeoutput_5c8.jpg
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  27. #67
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Amazing! Love the wheels.

  28. #68
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    Amazing! Love the wheels.
    Much appreciated! Excited to begin your build? You have a good recipe, I subscribed and am looking forward to seeing it get underway! If it helps... I move my wife's Lexus out at night and back in when done working, the space wont be an issue. The rest of the parts can go outside or elsewhere. As parts get installed your free up room QUICKLY! Good luck!
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  29. #69
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    I’m very excited! Spoke to Rousch yesterday so got the details sorted out there. That was originally my number one pick. Going with a 427 with Fast EFI should have reliable and consistent performance (hopefully). I’m living vicariously through you guys. When I saw your wheels on your car I got that bug of excitement as if it were mine going on my car. Just having so much fun watching you guys. What I am really learning is a measured pace is necessary not to stall out on these builds. Also when I built my smoker I found continuous engagement with likeminded people helps move the build along. Keep it up and keep us motivated!

  30. #70
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    I’m very excited! Spoke to Rousch yesterday so got the details sorted out there. That was originally my number one pick. Going with a 427 with Fast EFI should have reliable and consistent performance (hopefully). I’m living vicariously through you guys. When I saw your wheels on your car I got that bug of excitement as if it were mine going on my car. Just having so much fun watching you guys. What I am really learning is a measured pace is necessary not to stall out on these builds. Also when I built my smoker I found continuous engagement with likeminded people helps move the build along. Keep it up and keep us motivated!
    Well thanks! I appreciate those kind words... and yes. The deeper I go into the build, the more I realize the goal isn't: "I'm trying to put the motor in this weekend..." But rather: "So in the last few days here's what I've accomplished." Pacing is important, in BOTH directions. Moving forward to prevent stalling, but also not getting too deep and it becoming the chore rather than the hobby.

    I LOVE the support and encouragement on this forum, and there always seems to be new blood adding and starting! I'm already looking forward to the release of the new car so I can begin planning my next build!
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  31. #71
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheBabyBadger View Post
    Thanks for the insight... My driveway is really wide so pulling out wont be a problem... anyone set at the lower suspension point have any insight? It's not hard to raise later, but I'd prefer to do it once. pictures appreciated!
    I have this same question. I intend to do the same race height so post pics when you got them. I think changing the height might mean a weekends worth of work and an alignment too. I live on a hill and a narrow driveway...

  32. #72
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    OKAY.... so I'm not dead. Work has been nuts, and the new baby honestly doesn't even need to demand my time to have me prioritize her, SHE'S SO CUTE!

    So I've got the engine and trans mated! What!?!?! But I have questions. The American Power train slave specified 2 o'clock for the positioning of the slave outlet but the relief in the trans put my in/outlet closer to 4/5 o'clock. Anyone see an issue with this?

    Also... per my calculations (but based of a straight edge) I added .054 shim to move the slave close to the clutch fingers for a spacing of .085", but I cannot spin the slave bearing. I feel like I need to remove the shim to increase distance to .140" I feel like the measurement I took is off given it's not freely spinning. I've only got two bolts holding the trans on, so it's an easy enough fix.

    Anyway... I'm sure Paul is going to chime in and fix my problems, as always, but all feedback appreciated in advance. Major questions being: 1. should the slave bearing spin freely once trans is mated and 2. does hydro in/out line clocking positions matter?

    Thanks in advance. Pics below. MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!

    RoadRunner01.JPG

    CLutchAndTrans01.jpeg

    EngineAndTrans02.JPG

    SlavePositioning.jpeg

    LowerPositioning.jpeg

    LowerPositioning.jpeg

    SOOOOOOOclose.jpeg

    I can almost taste it... by taste it I mean drive it! Happy Holidays!
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  33. #73
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Since you called me out guess I have to respond. I installed the Tilton HRB, not the American Powertrain version you're using. So my responses need to take that into account. Probably apply to your installation, but I can't be positive. I followed the Tilton instructions exactly and so far it's working OK. But of course not running or driving yet. The Tilton uses a screw-in sleeve for adjustment rather than shims, so right away it's different. Their instructions are .125 clearance with the slave bearing all the way retracted. Once installed, it does push out of course and rests against the clutch pressure plate fingers. Not tight. I can reach in there and turn the bearing, but it does make constant contact. A traditional clutch arm/TOB also makes constant contact, so I don't think that's any different. Assuming yours isn't real tight or applying pressure, I suspect it's OK. As far as clocking the two hoses, I actually didn't use the clutch arm exit point. I exited out one of the slots in the transmission. The second one above the clutch arm exit in your picture #4. That put the hoses almost directly in line with the feed from the master cylinder. For the Tilton, they're interchangeable. One is the feed and the other the bleeder, just depending on orientation. The bleeder is always the one on the top. Looks like that's how yours is.

    Couple other comments based on looking at your pictures. Maybe you know this if you're reading my build thread (in other words you have a lot of spare time...). That QuickTime bell housing will extend below the frame rails 1-1/2 inches or so. It's quite a bit. I trimmed mine off. Also looks like you have the TD Motion Coyote lift arms? If so, the LH/front one hits the Gen 3 Coupe frame on that corner when dropping the engine in. It's really close. If you install the arm with less spacers than they provide, e.g. the absolute minimum, it might be OK. But just be warned. Keep some heavy padding in that area and watch it closely. Also maybe you saw that I found the steering column has to be completely removed to fit the Coyote past. Not just swung out of the way.

    Good luck! You're making great progress.
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-24-2018 at 08:03 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  34. #74

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    I also used the American Powertrain HRB on my 289 FIA build with a 302 and have used one before on my Pantera with a 351 Cleveland motor. The clocking position does not matter all that much with this caveat. The bearing comes pre-bled, however if it loses any fluid during the installation process it is more difficult to re-bleed if the bleed ports are not in the 2 o'clock position. Like you, I mounted mine with the bleeders in the lower position because of how I needed to run the lines out of the bell housing. Bleeding was a pain but if you have a power bleeder you will have no problem. That is what I used and it solved the problem.

    Regarding clearance, the bearing should not be tight against the fingers of the pressure plate. Like with Paul's, I believe the installed clearance is about .125". I will check that for sure and write back to you. In any event, it should spin somewhat freely.

    I am in Petaluma. Are you close to me?? Joel

  35. #75
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by japollon View Post
    I also used the American Powertrain HRB on my 289 FIA build with a 302 and have used one before on my Pantera with a 351 Cleveland motor. The clocking position does not matter all that much with this caveat. The bearing comes pre-bled, however if it loses any fluid during the installation process it is more difficult to re-bleed if the bleed ports are not in the 2 o'clock position. Like you, I mounted mine with the bleeders in the lower position because of how I needed to run the lines out of the bell housing. Bleeding was a pain but if you have a power bleeder you will have no problem. That is what I used and it solved the problem.

    Regarding clearance, the bearing should not be tight against the fingers of the pressure plate. Like with Paul's, I believe the installed clearance is about .125". I will check that for sure and write back to you. In any event, it should spin somewhat freely.

    I am in Petaluma. Are you close to me?? Joel

    Thank you, Paul. I appreciate both you guys taking the time to respond, especially with the holidays here. I'll post some follow up pictures, but the Hydromax (American Powertrain's Model Name) also is installed with a sleeve and a centering pin/centering stud installed in the sleeve. I think I measured my clearance wrong wrong and shimmed the wrong direction. So my install is one shim plus the required sleeve. The reason it's clocked more CW rotation is the sleeve doesn't clear the front trans snout as it rotates further CCW. I may just every so slightly trim the sleeve or trans to have them exit properly. In either event, my bearing doesn't rotate so I'm going to remove the shim, so I need to pull the trans either way. No biggie, it's got two bolts in it currently.

    Thanks for the heads up on the Coyote lift arms, I would have discovered that during install - TOO LATE! I'll be sure to also remove the steering the column to make life easier, too.

    Japollon - I will be using a pneumatic bleeder so bleeding shouldn't be an issue. I work in Napa and live in Vacaville. So yes! You and I are quite close in proximity with respect to the scope of the builds on this forum. Let me know if you'd like to swing by sometime and check progress if you're ever driving through my neck of the woods!

    Thanks again... I think that confirms what I assumed anyway. Have a safe and Merry Christmas!
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  36. #76
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Engine Installed. Time to get ready for Go-Karting!

    Okay... so I'm not dead. No longer in a brace. Baby girl is here and almost 5 months old. Life as usual. A couple things I learned:

    1. I thought I knew what "shoe-horning an engine in" was... Now I know.
    2. Definitely need to remove the steering assembly
    3. Jack the rear end up as high as possible to make installation easier.
    4. Keeping the vehicle on rollers up front allow us to shimmy it in.
    5. Drive side engine hoist bracket WILL RUB. Remove as many shims as possible.
    6. Tape up the frame rails (upper) and have towels GALORE!

    Aside from taking our time, this went pretty smoothly. My neighbor, with zero mechanical experience helped. He mostly laid under the car and pulled down on the tail shaft since we couldn't get the rear end up high enough. In hindsight some bigger jack stands would have made the job a lot easier. Enjoy the pictures!

    As suggested re-clocked the Hydromax Slave so the entry/exit was correct for the lines:

    IMG_0002.jpg

    Getting ready! My dog ninja'd my photo... haha. "Ms. Piggy" is my shop helper!

    IMG_0004.jpg

    Harnessed and ready:

    IMG_0013.jpg

    Well here we go... (yes, that's the coupe body safely suspended from my roof since I'm out of storage room for now...

    IMG_0053.jpg

    Crammed in there!

    LGCQ2754.JPG

    So ominous!

    PUHQ0990.JPG

    So pertty!

    VVRE7733.JPG

    Tucked away for next step: HEADERS AND WIRING!

    IMG_0071.JPG
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

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  38. #77
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    To pass the time...

    I was getting a little antsy and came across stupid good deal on a ***POSSIBLE*** future FFR kit car donor: 2004 Z06 Corvette. We will see what FFR decides to do with the new kit they're developing/releasing. I'm hoping it is GM based or at least has the option to be, then I don't have to sell this beaut! In the meantime, it'll be a fun weekend whip!

    SCHF5441.JPG
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

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  40. #78
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheBabyBadger View Post

    1. I thought I knew what "shoe-horning an engine in" was... Now I know.
    2. Definitely need to remove the steering assembly
    3. Jack the rear end up as high as possible to make installation easier.
    4. Keeping the vehicle on rollers up front allow us to shimmy it in.
    5. Drive side engine hoist bracket WILL RUB. Remove as many shims as possible.
    6. Tape up the frame rails (upper) and have towels GALORE!

    Great Advice. If I recall you did race height my coupe gets delivered this weekend. Tomorrow afternoon or Sunday Morning. How are you feeling about that decision. Speed bumps, parking lots ingress and egresses, etc. Do you have a pic of the stance on the ground?

  41. #79
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    I heated that bracket with an oxy-acetylene torch and bent it, to get clearance., which certainly helped.

    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    Great Advice. If I recall you did race height my coupe gets delivered this weekend. Tomorrow afternoon or Sunday Morning. How are you feeling about that decision. Speed bumps, parking lots ingress and egresses, etc. Do you have a pic of the stance on the ground?
    5. Drive side engine hoist bracket WILL RUB. Remove as many shims as possible.

  42. #80
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    Great Advice. If I recall you did race height my coupe gets delivered this weekend. Tomorrow afternoon or Sunday Morning. How are you feeling about that decision. Speed bumps, parking lots ingress and egresses, etc. Do you have a pic of the stance on the ground?
    I don't have the vehicle running yet, nor driving obviously... so I can't answer that yet. Per the advice on the forums I raised the vehicle to "STREET HEIGHT" which is still pretty darned low. The main reason for this is the feedback I received was the nose wont open at race heigh without being jacked/raised. This isn't practical for my use of the vehicle, so I went down the safer path. I think it will be plenty low on 18s.
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

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