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Thread: coyote won't start

  1. #1

    coyote won't start

    Ready for first start and nothing. Fuel pump isn't coming on so I checked the voltage, 2.22 volts. Why would it only have 2.22? I can understand 0, or 12, but how does it get 2.22? Tried an alternate ground, same thing, 2.22.

  2. #2
    Did you wire around the Ron Francis fuel pump relay?

  3. #3
    Well, followed the coyote manual of wiring the green coyote fuel pump wire into the tan wire in the rf harness bypassing the relay in the fuse panel.

  4. #4
    Internal or external pump?
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '13/TKO-600
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  5. #5

  6. #6
    Mine did the same thing. 2.2

    I had connected the leads to my Malfunction Indicator Light backwards and that was enough to give the PCM a signal it did not like so no power to the fuel pump.

    Ford figured the odd power reading was a ground issue so I re routed all of my grounds and still got 2.2.

    Double check our connections and grounds. Hopefully yours is just that simple.

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Royteamcobra View Post
    Well, followed the coyote manual of wiring the green coyote fuel pump wire into the tan wire in the rf harness bypassing the relay in the fuse panel.
    You should bypass the fuse in the RF panel, but not the relay. The relay is used for the inertia switch, which I hope you're using.

    The power and fuse protection for the in-tank fuel pump with the Coyote setup come from the Coyote PDB. If there isn't +12V on the Coyote PDB fuel pump wire when the key is turned on, then something is wrong with the wiring and the PCM isn't powering up the line. Could be the MIL as mentioned. Could be the ignition sense wire. Check all the wires.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  8. #8
    Not sure about the 2.2 volts but I just had the same problem. I accidently swapped the IGN and ACC on my ignition switch. This mistake would shut off the fuel pump and start request while cranking the engine.
    Mike

  9. #9
    Thanks for the tips, I was hoping it was going to be an easy one to find but no such luck. Ill keep checking every connection again. I am using the digital dawg keyless ignition, and might be an issue with that.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Royteamcobra View Post
    Thanks for the tips, I was hoping it was going to be an easy one to find but no such luck. Ill keep checking every connection again. I am using the digital dawg keyless ignition, and might be an issue with that.
    I would be inclined to temporarily remove the Digital Guard Dog module and confirm your Coyote installation works with a traditional ignition key. There's just a few wires and wouldn't take long. Once that's working, either as is or with further troubleshooting, then focus on the Digital Guard Dog installation knowing your Coyote itself is wired correctly.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  11. #11
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Royteamcobra View Post
    Thanks for the tips, I was hoping it was going to be an easy one to find but no such luck. Ill keep checking every connection again. I am using the digital dawg keyless ignition, and might be an issue with that.
    DGD requires a solid ground; make sure it's got a good one. If you're sharing the DGD ground with other stuff, I suggest you separate them temporarily, using a temporary jumper to determine if separate grounding helps your problem.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

  12. #12
    Well, maybe someone more familiar with the coyote systems can figure this out. For two months I've been trying different things to get this started. Removed the push button start, went to the included switch, continuity tested all grounds, added extra motor grounds, tested voltage at each connection, changed positive connection on MIL, never could get power to the fuel pump. Finally directly wired pump to the battery just to test the pump and get some fuel through the lines into a bucket to purge the line in case any junk in there. Worked fine. Hooked up the fuel line back to the motor, turned it over again just to show my son the motor was turning over.... And it fired up! I have no idea what finally caused the pump to get power. Anyhow, it's running now! Next try to hook back up the push button start.

  13. #13
    Congratulations glad you figured it out. At first I had the roll over switch activated myself, but quickly figured it out.
    MKIV #9122 Ordered kit 5/24/17 received kit 8/11/17 MK4 Base kit +,First Start 4/7/18, First Go-Cart 4/22/18, Coyote gen2, T-56, 2015 IRS 3.31, 17" Halibrand replicas w/Nitto NT555 G2, Withby Motorcars power brake kit W/Wilwood pedals, 04 Cobra front brakes, 15 Mustang rear brakes with mods, power steering. Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...Paul2STL-Build

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