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Thread: Looking for advice on Foot Box Modifications

  1. #1
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    Looking for advice on Foot Box Modifications

    Looking for advice on how large I can make the drivers and passenger side foot boxes. I did several searches on the subject and most results are old enough i an concerned that FFR may have changed the aluminum since then.

    in particular, how far towards the outside can I go without getting into interference with the body?

    For the DS, how far to the left to make for room for the accelerator pedal.


    All ideas and vendor options are welcome and appreciated.

    Thanks in advance.

    Dean

    K4 #9191, Coyote, T56, 2015+ IRS, ABS, 12.88 Wilwood's. Tubular Front Lower Control Arms, FFR Spindles
    http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...191-build.html

  2. #2
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Check out Straversi build thread. Steve did some custom work on the most recent foot boxes.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  3. #3
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I responded in the other forum. With your vintage kit you have the bump-out on the outside the DS footbox. That's as far as you're going to go there. On the inside on both sides, with the Coyote, you really don't want to be trying to steal more space IMO. The DS header access is unbelievably tight. The PS may have 1/2-inch or an inch you can squeeze out, but then make the header hard to mount on that side. You would have to decide if it's worth it.

    Not quite understanding your how far to the left on the DS to make room for the accelerator. Do you mean to the right? But same answer. There's not a lot of room to be had there with the Coyote installed.

    I would recommend mocking up the engine compartment with the engine and headers in place and the stock panels temporarily placed. Then you can decide how much space is available and how you may want to proceed.

    Don't forget, if you change the footbox panels, the stock carpet for those locations may not fit. Not a big deal necessarily, but something some builders forget about.

    To Scott's point, Steve did bump out the bottom of the DS footbox (interesting...) and also picked up some space under the Coyote head on the DS. Shown here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post274305. But IMO he also made my point about mocking everything up first to see what you can get. It's all really tight.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  4. #4
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Dean,
    I’m 6’ 6” so the modifications I made were important to me but not for everyone.

    I can tell you there is no room to gain immediately to the right of the gas pedal. My modification to the inboard side of the foot box changed the sharp angle between the transmission tunnel and the foot box. That freed up a couple of inches by my shin but nothing near the foot. I did heavily modify the Coyote pedal. Customized lever arms and pedal. That did create more room. I might have made the gas pedal narrower and bent the lever arm further inboard if I had it to do over again. That’s an area you can look at. I was willing to do a lot for 1/2” here or there because of my leg length.

    Paul’s advice about mocking up your changes is important. I spent hours cutting up cardboard and planning my changes. In hindsight, I should have dropped the motor in with the panels loose and planned my changes even further. Mine were made on the fly after everything was installed permanently which was much more difficult.

    Hope that helps.
    -Steve
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  5. #5
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Dean, let me revise what I said before. If you look through the sequence of photos that Paul referenced in the link to my build thread in his comment. Loot at the before and then scroll all the way down to the photo with the lizard skin applied and pedals installed and you can see the difference. The bottom of the vertical inboard panel (near the pedal) does not change but I did get more room from the mid point of the pedal up. Like I said, lots of work for fractions of inches but worth it for me.
    -Steve
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  6. #6
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    Still digesting all of the information but leaning towards not making any changes.

    Thanks for your help.

    Dean

  7. #7
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    We were able to squeeze an extra inch by the throttle but with the Coyote there isn't really much to be had.

    https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...9f&oe=5B0BC988

    I can say though just that extra inch made a massive difference.

  8. #8
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Dean,

    I noticed you are going coyote so my advice may not be helpful, but...

    If you are willing to go small block instead of coyote there is a ton of improvements you can make. See my 15th anniversary thread for both drivers and passenger footbox mods (link in sig)


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  9. #9
    Member JRD56's Avatar
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    I'm building an Mk3 (Small block) so things may be a little different but you'll definitely want as much foot room as you can get. Initially I could barely get my foot between the brake pedal and inner wall of the foot box. So I moved the inner wall in as far as I could. I had to fabricate a new panel to do this. On the outer side of the foot box there was hardly room for my foot between the clutch pedal and the outer wall. You really need a place to rest your foot on long drives with a clutch car. So fabricated a box to provide added space. I cut the opening in the original panel, put the body on and measured how far I could go. I plan to put a dead pedal on the kickout. If you look close at the photo below you can see the dimensions. You'll likely want to use small peddle pads also. Hope this helps.



    Purchased and un-assembled Mk3 in 2016. 5.0, Aluminum heads, Performer RPM Air gap, Quick Fuel 650 carb, BBK headers T5, 3.55 rear solid axle, Koni Shocks, PS with Hydra-boost. Also own two restored vintage Mustangs, two Model A fords, 1941 Chevy truck and several other hot rods.

  10. #10
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    Hey there,

    I just picked up a Mark 2 car. I learned by talking to an experienced builder that the original frame tube in my car restricts the width of the foot box. He told me that I could remove it and weld in a replacement tube like the one you have pictured. Does anyone know how I can get this part? Thanks
    Cobra DS tube.JPG

  11. #11
    Senior Member Hacksaw84's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhuff View Post
    Looking for advice on how large I can make the drivers and passenger side foot boxes.
    I modified my Gen1 coyote pedal pretty heavily and made a post on the other forum about it. Mostly to go up so I didn't have to cut the arm.

    For the drivers footbox I bumped out the lower right half from zero behind the pedal to about 2.5 in where it comes into the tunnel. Basically below the wide coyote head. Its a little bit of "foot" room but more so gives your leg a place to go. The same and even more could be done on the passenger side towards the bellhousing. You could also extend the passenger footbox past the round tube like the driver is. Out towards the body there is prob some room to grow on each side but not much.

    I attached a couple pics of the driver footbox side by side. Its really tight in there and makes header install "fun", you either want to fully mock it up or get measurements from someone. Also added a pic of the footbox with pedals (mid carpet install).

    Screenshot_20200421-174515_Gmail.jpg Screenshot_20200421-174541_Gmail.jpg 20201001_223847.jpg
    Michael aka @my_cobra_build on Instagram
    ---------------------------------------------------
    Base MK IV Roadster with several options. Body is Lamborghini Grigio Lynx w/ Audi Vesuvius Gray stripes. 25th Anniversary FFR wheels. Seats and interior by Intatrim.
    Gen1 Coyote w/ Comp Cams & Cobrajet manifold. Tremec TKO 600 w/ a midshift kit. 2015 IRS w/ 3.73 Torsen diff. FFR Headers, Gas N Pipes, Power steering & power brakes.

  12. #12
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    I did also learn that I could drill the rivets that hold the trans tunnel and reposition it to gain about an inch of room. Unfortunately my car is already completed and any surgery will be a challenge. Maybe I'll try to contact FFR to see if they would sell that tube to me. Thanks very much.

  13. #13
    Senior Member GThompson's Avatar
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    If you are in an area within a 2-hour drive of a race track you may be able to find someone with a tubing bender (NOT a”pipe bender”, you want one that will bent the tubing without putting a kink in it) who could bend a piece for you. The tubing you want is 1.5” o.d. X 0.120” wall DOM steel “roll cage tubing”. Check with local SCCA members, they should be able to point you in the right direction.
    George T

    Type 65 Coupe #338, Picked Up 4-Aug-07, Roller on 8-Mar-09, 1st start 8-Sep-13, 1st Autocross 7-Oct-18, finished sanding & sprayed paint myself 6-Nov-21, IRS/LCA/Koni/traditional gages/Kirkey/pin-drive rear width/15" Torq-Thrust Ds/44IDFs/Brodix ST5.0R heads/Eagle internal-balance crankshaft/oil pan by Armando/home-made turkey pan/S-10 mid-shift T5

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