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Thread: Looking for advice on Foot Box Modifications

  1. #1

    Looking for advice on Foot Box Modifications

    Looking for advice on how large I can make the drivers and passenger side foot boxes. I did several searches on the subject and most results are old enough i an concerned that FFR may have changed the aluminum since then.

    in particular, how far towards the outside can I go without getting into interference with the body?

    For the DS, how far to the left to make for room for the accelerator pedal.


    All ideas and vendor options are welcome and appreciated.

    Thanks in advance.

    Dean

    K4 #9191, Coyote, T56, 2015+ IRS, ABS, 12.88 Wilwood's. Tubular Front Lower Control Arms, FFR Spindles
    http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...191-build.html

  2. #2
    Check out Straversi build thread. Steve did some custom work on the most recent foot boxes.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  3. #3
    I responded in the other forum. With your vintage kit you have the bump-out on the outside the DS footbox. That's as far as you're going to go there. On the inside on both sides, with the Coyote, you really don't want to be trying to steal more space IMO. The DS header access is unbelievably tight. The PS may have 1/2-inch or an inch you can squeeze out, but then make the header hard to mount on that side. You would have to decide if it's worth it.

    Not quite understanding your how far to the left on the DS to make room for the accelerator. Do you mean to the right? But same answer. There's not a lot of room to be had there with the Coyote installed.

    I would recommend mocking up the engine compartment with the engine and headers in place and the stock panels temporarily placed. Then you can decide how much space is available and how you may want to proceed.

    Don't forget, if you change the footbox panels, the stock carpet for those locations may not fit. Not a big deal necessarily, but something some builders forget about.

    To Scott's point, Steve did bump out the bottom of the DS footbox (interesting...) and also picked up some space under the Coyote head on the DS. Shown here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post274305. But IMO he also made my point about mocking everything up first to see what you can get. It's all really tight.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  4. #4
    Dean,
    I’m 6’ 6” so the modifications I made were important to me but not for everyone.

    I can tell you there is no room to gain immediately to the right of the gas pedal. My modification to the inboard side of the foot box changed the sharp angle between the transmission tunnel and the foot box. That freed up a couple of inches by my shin but nothing near the foot. I did heavily modify the Coyote pedal. Customized lever arms and pedal. That did create more room. I might have made the gas pedal narrower and bent the lever arm further inboard if I had it to do over again. That’s an area you can look at. I was willing to do a lot for 1/2” here or there because of my leg length.

    Paul’s advice about mocking up your changes is important. I spent hours cutting up cardboard and planning my changes. In hindsight, I should have dropped the motor in with the panels loose and planned my changes even further. Mine were made on the fly after everything was installed permanently which was much more difficult.

    Hope that helps.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  5. #5
    Dean, let me revise what I said before. If you look through the sequence of photos that Paul referenced in the link to my build thread in his comment. Loot at the before and then scroll all the way down to the photo with the lizard skin applied and pedals installed and you can see the difference. The bottom of the vertical inboard panel (near the pedal) does not change but I did get more room from the mid point of the pedal up. Like I said, lots of work for fractions of inches but worth it for me.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  6. #6
    Still digesting all of the information but leaning towards not making any changes.

    Thanks for your help.

    Dean

  7. #7
    We were able to squeeze an extra inch by the throttle but with the Coyote there isn't really much to be had.

    https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...9f&oe=5B0BC988

    I can say though just that extra inch made a massive difference.

  8. #8
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Dean,

    I noticed you are going coyote so my advice may not be helpful, but...

    If you are willing to go small block instead of coyote there is a ton of improvements you can make. See my 15th anniversary thread for both drivers and passenger footbox mods (link in sig)


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  9. #9
    I'm building an Mk3 (Small block) so things may be a little different but you'll definitely want as much foot room as you can get. Initially I could barely get my foot between the brake pedal and inner wall of the foot box. So I moved the inner wall in as far as I could. I had to fabricate a new panel to do this. On the outer side of the foot box there was hardly room for my foot between the clutch pedal and the outer wall. You really need a place to rest your foot on long drives with a clutch car. So fabricated a box to provide added space. I cut the opening in the original panel, put the body on and measured how far I could go. I plan to put a dead pedal on the kickout. If you look close at the photo below you can see the dimensions. You'll likely want to use small peddle pads also. Hope this helps.



    Purchased and un-assembled Mk3 in 2016. 5.0, Aluminum heads, Performer RPM Air gap, Quick Fuel 650 carb, BBK headers T5, 3.55 rear solid axle, Koni Shocks, PS with Hydra-boost. Also own two restored vintage Mustangs, two Model A fords, 1941 Chevy truck and several other hot rods.

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