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Thread: A few questions for guys that have used POR-15

  1. #1
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    A few questions for guys that have used POR-15

    I have my old 8.8 straight axle all cleaned up. I used a wire wheel to clean off the rust. It's cleaned to the point where it is down to the shiny metal. I was planning on buying POR-15 to coat it. I have a few questions for those of you that have used POR-15 it before:

    1. Will the POR-15 adhere ok with most of the rust being cleaned off?
    2. Did you use only the POR-15 rust preventive coating or did you use the whole system, degreaser and metal prep?
    3. How much do you suggest buying to cover an axle?
    4. Top coat or not to top coat? Can I use a cheaper rattle can paint?
    5. Is there another product better suited for this?

    Thanks again!
    Last edited by Yama-Bro; 02-12-2018 at 04:55 PM.
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  2. #2
    wareaglescott's Avatar
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    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J594B5C...=9270661220101

    This is what I used. I just did the center differential on my IRS. Covered the entire thing and only used about half the amount. That stuff goes a long way. 4000 miles in and my car lives at the top of the lift so I get a good view of the differential regularly and it still looks brand new. That is some strong stuff. Very pleased with it. I did not apply any top coat.
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  3. #3

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    Frank-

    I have used POR-15 on a number of different projects, and couldn't recommend it higher! It is a wonderful product! Now, to address your questions as best I can...

    1. Will the POR-15 adhere ok with most of the rust being cleaned off? Yes, I have applied it to rusted metal, raw metal, and in between, and have been quite pleased each time.

    2. Did you use only the POR-15 rust preventive coating or did you use the whole system, degreaser and metal prep? I have NOT always used the degreaser, but I do suggest using the metal prep. It is my belief that the metal prep assists in the chemical bond that occurs between the metal and POR-15.

    3. How much do you suggest buying to cover an axle? I have to think a quart will do the axle and then some. You can probably get a few other projects done as well. I doubt that you can get away with the smallest can (I forget the size), but a quart isn't that expensive.

    4. Top coat or not to top coat? Can I use a cheaper rattle can paint? If it will be exposed to UV light, top coat it. In my opinion, I would suggest top coat everything. It's not very expensive, and will only enhance the life of the product.

    5. Is there another product better suited for this? For coating your axle, no I don't think there is anything better frankly. For top coating, you can use any paint product, you don't have to use their branded top coat. I have used Rustoleum, Eastwood, and other similar products with success, and I have also used their branded top coat. Your call frankly.


    I hope I have addressed your questions. However, if you have anything else, just fire away, and I will do the best I can. Good luck with it, and wear gloves!!

    Regards,

    Steve

  4. #4
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Great replies. Thanks!
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
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  5. #5
    edwardb's Avatar
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    You've received good advice already, so can't add too much. I bought a quart each of the degreaser and metal prep a long time ago, and have used it a bunch of times with still a lot left. I highly recommend using it. For the metal prep wear gloves. I use the typical nitrate disposables any time I work with it. Doesn't take long for it to really irritate your skin if left exposed. Ask me how I know. A top coat won't hurt, but not sure it's necessary in this case. UV light can affect POR15. Not a big issue for under chassis parts IMO.

    I really like POR15 and use it a lot on my builds. If you do want to go another direction, I also highly recommend Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-ex...ack-paint.html. I've only used the rattle can variety. I prep with the same POR15 degreaser the metal prep, and spray on two coats with a couple hours between. I keep a can around and use it frequently. It's good stuff. IMO would be another good option for your axle. I tried their 2K product. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-...sis-black.html. Since it's catalyzed, sets up a little more quickly and is extremely durable. But I didn't think it laid down as flat, plus once you puncture the catalyst the can has to be used within a matter of hours. But for your axle, this would be another good option.
    Last edited by edwardb; 02-12-2018 at 08:42 PM.
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  6. #6
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    I used two coats of Rust Bullet on my rear axle. I don't think I cleaned it as much as you describe - I used a wire wheel on my angle grinder to remove the heavy rust, and no other prep. It has been on the rear axle for 10 years and no rust. You can buy it at Walmart https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Bull...&wl13=&veh=sem
    Rust Bullet also sells a Black Top Coat which you are supposed to also use.

  7. #7
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    x4 what has already been said. That POR15 is unbelievable . do the whole thing, degrease, prep, then paint. For some reason I run out of prep before everything else . Maybe thats because I have my 14 yo doing it. Also, be meticulous and wipe the lid clean before you store it or it is really difficult to get off later.
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  8. #8

    Carl
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    My only other additional comment is be careful with paint runs ... they are very hard to get off because this stuff is so darn hard.

    Keep your remaining stuff well sealed ... I even transferred mine to a glass jar and sealed it with plastic under the lid.
    Mk 4 Roadster
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  9. #9
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    I was thinking of buying several small cans instead of one big one to reduce the amount of waste from it drying out after being opened. I may just buy three starter kits. That should give me enough to do the whole axle, plus it may be the cheapest method.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  10. #10
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    I painted my bare chassis with Por-15. You absolutely have to degrease and etch the metal otherwise it won’t adhere. I did one better and sandblasted my frame. Take small amounts out of the can without pouring it and seal the can right away. You can add a bit of acetone if required. I top coated with Eastwood Chassis Black. It doesn’t look quite as good as powder coat but good luck trying to chip it off.

  11. #11
    BluePrintEngines's Avatar
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    I used it on my drag car in a few places. As stated above, prep is pretty essential or it'll come off in sheets. And Runs are a bugger! I have had decent success with rustoleum also. It seems a little more forgiving IMO.

    Johnny
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