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Thread: CDobbs MK4 base kit build by wallace18

  1. #41
    Member KenWilkinson's Avatar
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    Did you apply Lizard Skin to the bottom and top sides? IE, ceramic for insulation and the other for sound insulation?

    I'm interested in this approach rather than a Dynamat solution if it makes sense.

    Any feed back folks?

  2. #42
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    With Lizard skin you must first apply the sound deader coating, then the ceramic heat coating. I do this on the outside of the footboys and trans tunnel area. I then install Eastwood X-mat on the entire interior cockpit inside. I have done this on multiple builds with great success as far a s heat and noise.

  3. #43
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    Today I finished up fuel tank area hoses, wires and lines. I made a charcoal canister. I made all the brake lines and bled brakes. Found out I forgot Chris wants to install line lock. I will have to redo front brake lines tomorrow, . Installed rest of trunk aluminum.

    IMG_2474.JPGIMG_2475.JPGIMG_2478.JPG

  4. #44
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    I siliconed passenger foot-box and installed X-Mat inside as well. I installed inside drivers foot-box and top inside aluminum panels. I made up my own brake light switch bracket. Installed heater/defroster, wiring harness's, ECU computer and clutch cable. Chris came by after lunch and installed his ignition wires, nice job by the way. Hope to install engine/trans tomorrow.

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  5. #45
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    While waiting on some part answers, I mocked up the dash so it can be removed with the body on. You never know when you may need to get at some wiring down the road. I use aluminum angle and tap it for 1/4-20 S/S button heads to mount dash later. Chris decided to postpone line lock till down the road after car is done. After lunch I installed engine/trans and started running wires and such.

    IMG_2486.JPGIMG_2484.JPGIMG_2485.JPG

  6. #46
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    Spent all day on wiring harness for engine and fuel lines. I covered fuel lines with 2 different heat sleeves. I may header wrap #3 and #4 pipes out of head to help with heat near fuel lines as well. I have 90% of EFI/Engine harness done. Throttle cable and clutch cable routed as well. I have P/S lines on rack, ran out of time to finish up to pump.

    IMG_2487.JPGIMG_2490.JPGIMG_2489.JPGIMG_2492.JPG

  7. #47
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    Not much to take photos of today. Finishing up wire harness for engine, installed coil and made up coil wire, installed O/P and W/T sensors and wiring. Hooked up P/S hoses and filled pump. Installed drive shaft and filled trans with fluid. Plumbed up P/B booster. Worked on getting all the pedals and cables just right and installed stops. Taking weekend off for good behavior, LOL.

    IMG_2493.JPGIMG_2496.JPGIMG_2498.JPGIMG_2499.JPG

  8. #48
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    Installed 95% of cooling system. Rubber mounted radiator. heater hoses all run. Installed J-pipes and O2 sensors. Finished up air intake and MAF sensor. Waiting on some stuff from Summit so I can start engine.

    IMG_2500.JPGIMG_2501.JPGIMG_2504.JPGIMG_2505.JPGIMG_2506.JPGIMG_2503.JPG
    Last edited by wallace18; 04-30-2018 at 03:51 PM.

  9. #49
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    Scored a nice 5.0 intake bolt plate on E-Bay. Installed the Whitby frame brace around booster. Started wiring the FI relay/fuse panels.Installed heater valve and temp sensor in lower radiator hose. 5.0 intake does not support 3 water temp ports like aftermarket intakes do. Filled engine with 50/50 coolant mix. Hope to start it tomorrow sometime in the afternoon.

    IMG_2520.JPGIMG_2514.JPGIMG_2519.JPGIMG_2518.JPGIMG_2516.JPG

  10. #50
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    Milestone today, started engine! Seems to run great. Waiting on POL parts so I can go-cart. Good oil pressure and fans come on when they should. Got lucky I guess, LOL.


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    Woo hoo!

  12. #52
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    As good as it has been going I guess I was due a bad day. It started out good as I swapped out the fan sensor and temp gauge sensors. I liked the temp sensor in the head vs in the lower radiator hose. I refilled engine with coolant and started working on interior wiring. I came back from lunch to see water dripping from the bell housing area. I looked at the drip and it was coming from the oil pan in the passenger rear area. Well I looked everywhere I could and could only see water dripping from the oil pan. So I drained the oil, no water. It wass still dripping under car by the oil pan. I pulled the pan to find it was the thermostat housing all the time. I ordered the parts to fix and called it a day. Hope tomorrow is better.

  13. #53
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    Still waiting on a thermostat housing. So I mocked up the center console, under dash panels and made spots for radio, speakers and heat vents. Speakers and vent will be hidden when you are seated in cafe and from above. I will cover dash with FFR supplied cover and rest with marine grade black vinyl.

    IMG_2522.JPGIMG_2524.JPGIMG_2525.JPG

  14. #54
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    Normally I do not work on Saturday but, this week has been weird. I reinstalled the oil pan and went to install the T-Stat. housing and low and behold the lower stud pulled out of the intake when I went to tighten the housing down. Most likely the reason for the leak in the first place. I ended up installing a heli-coil. I went and covered the dash so it felt like I got something done. Oh the joys of Kit car building, LOL.

    IMG_2527.JPGIMG_2526.JPG

  15. #55
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    I have been chasing a coolant leak around the Thermostat housing for several days. It turns out the lower intake is bad. Chris is going to get another. Today I worked on covering the under dash panels and finished wiring all the dash, radio and electronic antenna. Tunes are coming out of speakers, Yea! I have to recover the radio console. I am not happy with the first result.

    IMG_2529.JPG

  16. #56
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    Today I finished up radio console. I also started to replace lower intake. Hopefully this will fix coolant leak.

    IMG_2532.JPG

  17. #57
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    Yesterday I was able to finish up intake, no coolant leaks-Yea! I installed seats for holes to be drilled and installed slider on drivers seat. Marsha and I tried to bleed brakes but could not get any pressure out of rear circuit. I ordered another master cylinder and now have pressure but a soft pedal. May still have some air in it. At least now all 4 brakes grab. I removed seats and installed X-Mat. POL front shocks and trans bracket came Fed Ex so I finished up front suspension and trans mounts. I also drilled and mounted roll bars.

    IMG_2535.JPGIMG_2537.JPGIMG_2533.JPGIMG_2534.JPG

  18. #58
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    Running out of stuff to do. Waiting on upper steering shaft so I can go-cart. Also wheels and tires should be here by end of the week. Today I mocked up the rear lights, front lights, fuel filler and hood scoop. I do not like to use front T/S lights to hold body brace. So I mount the light 90 degrees from the holes that come from FFR and will countersink some screws for the brace when mounting the body. That way if you ever need to remove the light it won't mess with body position, JM2CW. Going to put the MK4 under cover till parts arrive. I may do a little work on my 35 stuff.

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  19. #59
    Member KenWilkinson's Avatar
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    Wallace18,

    I'm about three hours away. Found out my 35 is going on the truck this Friday (fingers crossed). I"d like to visit you if possible and maybe be of assistance for a few hours. Let me know if possible.

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenWilkinson View Post
    Wallace18,

    I'm about three hours away. Found out my 35 is going on the truck this Friday (fingers crossed). I"d like to visit you if possible and maybe be of assistance for a few hours. Let me know if possible.
    Sure thing. PM sent.

  21. #61
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    Made some panels to hide roll bars and seat belts in trunk area. Also Powder coated quick-jacks and painted trunk hinges. Chris came by to check out build. First time he heard it run in the flesh. He is a happy guy, LOL.

    IMG_2546.JPG

  22. #62
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    Still waiting on some parts. ***Just a note to those who are thinking of doing a base kit build. The base kit does not come with hood hinges and gas struts. It comes with hood pins and you will have to lift off the hood. Spend the extra money and get the hood hinge kit. I just ordered it for Chris. IMO the complete kit is a better way to go. I am glad to be doing this base kit build so I could see the differences myself. I am going to have some minor surgery next Wednesday and will be out of service for 2 weeks, so parts waiting is not so bad. LOL.

  23. #63
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    For the last week I have been going crazy not working on a car. Since I am allowed to lift 20lbs, I went and painted the hood hinges. I then installed the kit on Chris's hood. Hopefully on Wednesday I get the go ahead to start back on the cars without restriction.

    IMG_2581.JPGIMG_2582.JPG

  24. #64
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    Wednesday the doctor gave me the OK to get back to full work load. Yea! Thursday the steering shaft came and Chris dropped off the painted wheels with tires. Today I installed everything. Shimmed up the pillow block near the steering wheel for clearance on the frame. Then I did a front alignment. Then Go- carted it. Storm was in area so no video yet. I barely made it back to the shop before the storm hit. I had to modify the tie rod ends. As they were off the 1992 donor they would not allow for toe in with lock nuts installed. I removed lock nuts and drilled and tapped for set screws and lock nuts. Now everything is cool. Chris is coming over on Sunday to drive go cart and help me put body on.

    IMG_2586.JPGIMG_2591.JPGIMG_2592.JPGIMG_2593.JPG

  25. #65

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    Tom-

    It's about time you got back to work! HA

    Very pleased to hear the doctor cleared you for everything, and I know it must feel good to be back in the garage!

    Chris has to be pretty stoked to be able to go-kart. I look forward to reading about how that goes.

    I look forward to your regular updates on your myriad projects!

    Regards,

    Steve

  26. #66
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    Chris came by after church. He got to go-cart it. Nothing but smiles from him. We then dropped the body on the chassis. Here is some pics and a video.

    IMG_2594.JPGIMG_2596.JPGIMG_2597.JPG

    https://youtu.be/YTpdeBKtjdQ

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  28. #67
    Senior Member CVOBill's Avatar
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    Looks like Chris enjoyed the go-cart lol. Looking good Tom.
    CVOBill

    Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 Unassembled from original owner. Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote, TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
    MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003
    5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005

  29. #68
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    Today I centered and bolted down the body. One thing I do a little bit differently is I countersink 2 S/S screws to mount the body to the front body braces instead of using the turn signals. I then drill 2 holes for the turn signal 90 degrees from the FFR holes. I also installed the hood. I still need to trim it for the 3/16" gap. Car is coming along very nice.

    IMG_2601.JPGIMG_2599.JPGIMG_2600.JPGIMG_2603.JPGIMG_2602.JPG

  30. #69
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    Got a lot done today. I gapped the hood, trunk and doors. Then mounted all of them. Installed the windshield, hood latches & door latches as well. Make sure you mount windshield 27" from rear door opening in case you ever want to install soft top.

    IMG_2604.JPGIMG_2607.JPGIMG_2608.JPGIMG_2609.JPGIMG_2605.JPG

  31. #70
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    Wired up all the tail lights and front lights. I use weather-site connectors from Summit. I also mocked up all the splash shield and radiator aluminum.

    IMG_2610.JPGIMG_2611.JPG

  32. #71
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    Finished up all I can do til I get side pipes back from ceramic coating. I clearance the roll bar holes, mocked up the rest of the aluminum, rear view mirror and located defrost vents. Chris cannot take car for bodywork/paint for 3 weeks. So on the 4-post the MK4 goes and the 35 on my 2-post.

    IMG_2612.JPGIMG_2613.JPGIMG_2614.JPGIMG_2615.JPGIMG_2616.JPG

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