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Thread: Copper coolant lines

  1. #1
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Copper coolant lines

    I was just looking at the '35 truck in the FFR gallery. I haven't noticed before that they used what appears to be copper for the upper coolant line. I know this was used for old school hot rods back in the day, but can copper really be used for modern engines as a reliable alternative? I've googled it, and as usual there is conflicting answers.

  2. #2
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    It might just be painted aluminum to look like copper, to go along with the paint, and theme of the truck.

    Copper would work, but you'd need to clear coat it, or youl could expect some patina in a few years time..

  3. #3
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Pretty sure it's copper from the pictures, you can see the solder in the joints.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Copper pipe will work fine from the standpoint of corrosion, temperature and pressure resistance, but you still need rubber hose fittings at both ends. Doesn't seem worth the effort to me. Real old cars didn't use it.
    Last edited by DaveS53; 02-17-2018 at 04:45 PM.

  5. #5
    EFI Rules and Carbs Drool Arrowhead's Avatar
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    Sure, works just fine. I even powder coated mine. It comes in handy if you have restrictions on space or odd connections to make. The trick is to take a slice of tubing like 3/16" thick or so and make a slice through one side so you can expand it and slide it over the end where you are going to put a hose and solder the ring on. That will give you a nice step so the hose and clamp can't slide off.

    Picture 004.jpg

    2011-10-15_11-43-52_749.jpg

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arrowhead View Post
    Sure, works just fine. I even powder coated mine. It comes in handy if you have restrictions on space or odd connections to make. The trick is to take a slice of tubing like 3/16" thick or so and make a slice through one side so you can expand it and slide it over the end where you are going to put a hose and solder the ring on. That will give you a nice step so the hose and clamp can't slide off.

    Picture 004.jpg

    2011-10-15_11-43-52_749.jpg
    That came out really nice. You have any other winter projects going on with the 33?
    Dale

  7. #7
    EFI Rules and Carbs Drool Arrowhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by myjones View Post
    That came out really nice. You have any other winter projects going on with the 33?
    Dale
    Well um I guess you could call it a "multi winters project" - thanks for asking. It's been off the road for basically 18 months now but would like to get it back on the road for this summer. Stripped it down to the bare frame for a complete overhaul / refresh. Not that it really needed it, just a ton of upgrades and improvements.

    Short list:
    Modified rear control arm mounts for better geometry
    Rebuilt transmission
    New timing chains / gears / adjusters / guides
    Upgraded US Shift trans controller from the vintage Baumann (US Shift is half the size of the old one and has more features)
    Holley HP EFI, digital dash, analog speedo and tach (replaced Megasquirt and stock gauges)
    New bumper to bumper 21 circuit chassis harness (stock harness was inadequate for all the electrical systems I'm running)
    Color change of chassis / drive train from blue to dark grey (Love the blue color but the grey goes better with the silver body)
    All new stainless fuel / brake / trans lines (original lines were all discolored and oxidized, NiCopp lines turn green)
    Boyd tank (wanted an in tank pump with more capacity to feed bigger injectors)
    42# injectors (24# were undersized)
    Rebuilt exhaust system with band clamps and remade tailpipes to clear modified suspension (early kits like mine came with old style U clamps that suck)
    Replacing front grill with newer version that's symmetrical on top (early versions like mine had a raised eyebrow on the drivers side)
    New Dynamat / Dynaliner / Carpet

    Most all the fabrication / painting is done and have been re assembling

    In the spirit of full disclosure, I had updated a the coolant lines a few years ago. Not that the was a problem with the copper tubing though, I wanted a more efficient cooling system so I completely redesigned it using AN hose and now it pulls from both the front and back of the heads.

    IMG_20140824_140044_917.jpg

  8. #8
    Ol Skool
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arrowhead View Post
    Sure, works just fine. I even powder coated mine. It comes in handy if you have restrictions on space or odd connections to make. The trick is to take a slice of tubing like 3/16" thick or so and make a slice through one side so you can expand it and slide it over the end where you are going to put a hose and solder the ring on. That will give you a nice step so the hose and clamp can't slide off.

    Picture 004.jpg

    2011-10-15_11-43-52_749.jpg
    I've used copper on all kinds of heavy equipment, trucks, and occasional field expedient hose repairs. I have used bead rollers to help the hose seal. I've also flared it and used various bite type fittings. Never had work hardening problems in case someone has material concerns. Obviously one end needs to have rubber flex for the appropriate application. FWIW many Truck applications use copper tubing in multiple places. With higher pressure and temperature than the typical automotive radiator which is often made from copper also. Copper is great for nickel and chrome coating also. Copper is great for the steam punk look also. Not sure what the definition of a real old car is, but I have worked on original antique cars with lots of copper tubing.
    Last edited by erlihemi; 02-22-2018 at 07:31 PM.

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