Are there any alternatives to mounting the oil pressure sending unit? I feel like something is going to cook with it being this close to the exhaust. Thanks.
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Are there any alternatives to mounting the oil pressure sending unit? I feel like something is going to cook with it being this close to the exhaust. Thanks.
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Your only other option is remote plumbing + put it wherever you want it.
The port you are in and the oil filter are the only (practical) places to get to oil pressure on that motor.
Is the diameter of the sending unit too big to go straight into the block? It's hard to tell in the picture but I'm guessing that you have a straight section coming from the block to the elbow. Maybe the straight section could be shorter? Either way it seem that you should angle down towards the oil pan instead of up.
The purpose made extension for these engines puts it at a decent distance and angle. Maybe check that instead of the pipe fittings you're using. Lots of sources. This just happens to one of them. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c2oz-9b339-c
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How about a 90 deg elbow instead of the 45(?) deg you have now?
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
If you are using Speedhut gauges they sell a very compact sending unit. This is what I have. Not sure if they have to reconfigure your gauge though.
https://www.speedhut.com/ecommerce/p...on-and-Legacy)
If you are using Speedhut gauges they sell a very compact sending unit. This is what I have. Not sure if they have to reconfigure your gauge though.
https://www.speedhut.com/ecommerce/p...on-and-Legacy)
I used the short angle from Breeze. It put the sensor in perfect spot to miss the headers, oil filter adaptive and the 10 other things trying to occupy that space....
I mounted the sender to the bottom of the front cross brace, and connected it to the block with some -4 braided hose. That protected the sender unit from heat and vibration. Keep the sender below the port so the lines don't drain out when the engine is off.
.boB "Iron Man"
NASA Rocky Mountain, TTU #42, HPDE Instructor
BDR 1642: Coyote, 6 Speed Auto, Edelbrock Supercharger
Member: www.MileHiCobraClub.com
www.RacingTheExocet.com
My experience with the Speedhut senders is that they are not long lived when mounted directly to the block so similar to what Bob suggested I have remote mounted them to the F panel and run a section of -4 hose.
Jeff
Is the hose something I would need to have special made or something I can order from Summit or somewhere? I was also thinking of making some kind of a heat shield, but it sounds like from your experience, vibration makes them fail. Sometimes I feel like if was for all these little things, my car would have been done months ago. Lol. frustrating sometimes.
I just used standard -4 fittings and hoses from summit racing.
I made this bracket out of some angle iron, a piece of exhaust tubing, and some rubber drawer liner. All stuff I had lying around the garage.
I bolted it to the bottom of the front X brace. And attadhed the sender SS hose clamp. The rubber drawer liner protects it from chassis vibrations. Probably not needed in a street car, but couldn't hurt.
And it's all connected with a short piece of -4 stainless braided hose I bought from Summit racing. All simple off the shelf parts. The hole in the block and the end of the sender are NPT. SO you'll need an NPT to AN fitting for the block. And then NPT hose end or a AN to NPT adapter at the sensor end. Standard stuff, nothing special.
.boB "Iron Man"
NASA Rocky Mountain, TTU #42, HPDE Instructor
BDR 1642: Coyote, 6 Speed Auto, Edelbrock Supercharger
Member: www.MileHiCobraClub.com
www.RacingTheExocet.com
Thanks for all the great replies. I guess I'll wait until the motor is installed and then remote mount the sending unit.
Last edited by Bobby Doug; 02-21-2018 at 08:51 PM.
Doug
FFR 7995
347 SBF Prestige Mototsports, Moser 8.8 (3.31) 3 Link, TKO 600, Nitto 555s, 17" Halibrands, PS, AC, Heat, Color Redfire Pearl, with Wimbledon White Stripes
I picked up a 45° fitting (thanks for the idea Danielt) from the local hardware store. The sender is now mounted close to block and has good clearance to the header. I figure I can always relocate it later if I have any problems.
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Thanks. I am enjoying the build, just gets a little frustrating sometimes. My wife and daughter helped me get the motor in this weekend. We had a lot of fun and got some good pictures. I'm sure years from now we will have a lot of good memories from this project.
I was a car mechanic for many years. I guess, I took for granted how easy it was to get the right parts and how well things fit together. I'm building a base kit non-donor build and I definitely have more time on the computer than on the car. I keep telling my wife the next one will be a lot easier. That always gets me a dirty look. LOL
Have you considered modifying an oil cooler sandwich adapter?
Though my engine is Dart/Chevy the adapter, once drilled to open things up, has two ports which work well for a sending unit or two.
The one shown below is for a Ford, but it's the exact adapter plate that I used for mine with a different center thread insert and yes it works fine on mine.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cvs-ocs64/overview/
Last edited by GoDadGo; 03-01-2018 at 06:53 AM.
That's a good idea. I am using the remote oil filter which has extra ports in it. I could install the sending unit in the filter end, mounted on the front x member. then it would be mounted away from everything and I would only have to buy a pipe fitting adapter. Thanks! So simple and I never thought of it.