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Thread: Engine choice....thoughts????

  1. #41
    Member Scubasommer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avalanche325 View Post
    These days, a big block is good for two things. 1. Car shows. 2. You just gotta have it. If that is you, go for it. They have their own awesomeness and definitely a wow factor.

    Besides that, a small block is the way to go. Lower cost, easier to work on, you can get tons of power and torque from a stroker. If you want these cars to perform, you want to keep them light, and keep the weight rear biased. In the real Cobra world, the 289 was an unbelievable success on the track. The 427......not really. Maybe that's not quite fair because race cars were moving into aerodynamics and having a roof. But the records say what the records say. The 427 is the wow factor car though because it is so outrageous.

    With that said......here is my real advice. Within your financial constraints of course. Build the car, that if you drove it to a Cobra event and you could drive any car there back home, yours is the car that you would choose. You are doing the right thing by thinking it through now. If a certain engine sings to you, and is going to fit what you want to do with the car, go for it.

    I built my car to drive, perform very well, be quick at autocross, and have the old school vibe. That sent me straight to a 347. Car shows are very far form being my thing. That may have led me elsewhere, engine-wise.
    Thank you !!!!

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by japollon View Post
    I have a small block 427 in a Detomaso Pantera. Had I to do it over again, I would do exactly the same thing. It's been a great motor. Maybe not as torquey as a big block but very strong through the mid-range. It's kind of the best of both worlds in my view. Just my 2 cents. Joel
    Thanks Joel...I think I like where your head is at!

  3. #43
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    I have a 351w stroked to 408 in a 95 mustang that I`m pulling and putting into my roadster. It dynoed at 435 at the wheels with a very conservative tune in the mustang. Was an absolute blast to drive in that car....should be even more insane in a car 1000lbs less. I know there are lots of guys that run a lot more hp...they obviously have bigger cahonas than me

    just my small input for a stroked smb.

    Cheers

  4. #44
    Unconventional Builder Joee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scubasommer View Post
    Do you guys offer rotating assemblies? There are parts I wish to get for the internals of my prepped 1969 351w block?
    Contact Gordon Levy at Levy Racing he sells rotating assemblys.
    Roadster Mk3 5294, 302 Comp XE276HR cam, AFR 185 heads, 650 Quick fuel carb, Air Gap intake, T-5 3.55 gear Levy Upper & Lower Front and Rear control arms Purch Jan 2008 Tagged Mar 2012 Best ET 12.14 @113** SOLD 4/8/18 **
    YouTube Videos: Current performance - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7c...86xO3U4l4RtVMQ Older build - http://www.youtube.com/user/joeembery#p/u My Pics:
    http://s207.photobucket.com/user/Joe...?sort=6&page=1

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by glastron351 View Post
    I have a 351w stroked to 408 in a 95 mustang that I`m pulling and putting into my roadster. It dynoed at 435 at the wheels with a very conservative tune in the mustang. Was an absolute blast to drive in that car....should be even more insane in a car 1000lbs less. I know there are lots of guys that run a lot more hp...they obviously have bigger cahonas than me

    just my small input for a stroked smb.

    Cheers
    cool cool!!

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joee View Post
    Contact Gordon Levy at Levy Racing he sells rotating assemblys.
    Thanks Joee!

  7. #47
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    Hi folks - I am new and hope to purchase my MK4 complete kit this summer. I am researching engines (great thread here!), and am curious if this is a good engine? Small block 427 kicking out 480HP?

    https://blueprintengines.com/collect...s/ford-427-ps1

    I noticed BluePrint didn't have this engine available on the factoryfiveengines.com site? Any idea why?

    Thanks for your help!

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by wineguy View Post
    Hi folks - I am new and hope to purchase my MK4 complete kit this summer. I am researching engines (great thread here!), and am curious if this is a good engine? Small block 427 kicking out 480HP?

    https://blueprintengines.com/collect...s/ford-427-ps1

    I noticed BluePrint didn't have this engine available on the factoryfiveengines.com site? Any idea why?

    Thanks for your help!
    Looks like they do have a 427w on their Ffengines site, just bit different spec, I’m sure they would make you whatever you want.
    Are you sure you want 500hp? Couple years ago when I was just starting tearing down my donor, I met a guy with a mk4 with a 427w in it. When I asked him what we would do differently if he built again he said he would put a stock 250hp 302 in it, said he could barely drive it with all the power and it wasn’t fun.

    I know some can drive with that much power to weight, but is that what you want/need?
    Last edited by Murd; 03-03-2018 at 08:50 AM. Reason: Typo

  9. #49
    Unconventional Builder Joee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Murd View Post
    Looks like they do have a 427w on their Ffengines site, just bit different spec, I’m sure they would make you whatever you want.
    Are you sure you want 500hp? Couple years ago when I was just starting tearing down my donor, I met a guy with a mk4 with a 427w in it. When I asked him what we would do differently if he built again he said he would put a stock 250hp 302 in it, said he could barely drive it with all the power and it wasn’t fun.

    I know some can drive with that much power to weight, but is that what you want/need?
    Ideal powerful fun driver, AutoX and track fun car is 300 rwhp and a 3.55 rear.
    Roadster Mk3 5294, 302 Comp XE276HR cam, AFR 185 heads, 650 Quick fuel carb, Air Gap intake, T-5 3.55 gear Levy Upper & Lower Front and Rear control arms Purch Jan 2008 Tagged Mar 2012 Best ET 12.14 @113** SOLD 4/8/18 **
    YouTube Videos: Current performance - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7c...86xO3U4l4RtVMQ Older build - http://www.youtube.com/user/joeembery#p/u My Pics:
    http://s207.photobucket.com/user/Joe...?sort=6&page=1

  10. #50
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    Thanks @Murd and @Joee. I think I am leaning towards the 347.

    What are your thoughts on BluePoint vs Roush? Carb vs injected? (I am in California if that matters)

    Thanks!!!!!
    -Zack

  11. #51

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    There's no such thing as too much power, only not enough control.
    .boB "Iron Man"
    NASA Rocky Mountain, TTU #42, HPDE Instructor
    BDR 1642: Coyote, 6 Speed Auto, Edelbrock Supercharger
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  12. #52
    Senior Member Itchief's Avatar
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    With the price drop of EFI in the past couple of years I would go with EFI

    I converted from a carburetor to EFI and would not go back

    Rick
    #8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater

  13. #53
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    Per Bob Cowan
    There's no such thing as too much power, only not enough control.

    I agree completely. The SAFETY is that small thread between your brain (big assumptions here) and your right foot. Tread lightly and you'll be just fine, get stupid and funny (not ha ha) things will happen. Remember, lifting from the gas pedal quickly causes as many problems as mashing it.

    I started with a 351/427 at about 500 hp, a few tweeks later and it's about 540 at the crank and 440 at the wheels (Mustang dyno). 60-65k miles on the motor and I wouldn't change a thing, well except for another 50-100 hp. Yes, that much power isn't necessary but it sure is fun.

    EFI is looking better all the time and it will help to make the motor more tractable and easier to drive. Carbs are sometimes a wee bit temperamental. It's probably easier to find a variety of good EFI tuners, the carb tuning masters are fading away.

    I think I'd give serious consideration to the BluePrint team. Looks like they have good builds and great value.

    Jim

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Murd View Post

    Are you sure you want 500hp?

    if he built again he said he would put a stock 250hp 302 in it, said he could barely drive it with all the power and it wasn’t fun.

    I know some can drive with that much power to weight, but is that what you want/need?
    Quote Originally Posted by Joee View Post
    Ideal powerful fun driver, AutoX and track fun car is 300 rwhp and a 3.55 rear.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Cowan View Post
    There's no such thing as too much power, only not enough control.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim1855 View Post

    Tread lightly and you'll be just fine, get stupid and funny (not ha ha) things will happen. Remember, lifting from the gas pedal quickly causes as many problems as mashing it.

    I started with a 351/427 at about 500 hp, a few tweeks later and it's about 540 at the crank and 440 at the wheels (Mustang dyno). 60-65k miles on the motor and I wouldn't change a thing, well except for another 50-100 hp. Yes, that much power isn't necessary but it sure is fun.

    All these statements are essentially true.


    Go much north of 300hp and you will have to be "on edge" and very much on top of your game when shifting into 3rd gear on a hard run (drag strip).

    Learn to drive it, or ABSOLUTELY DO NOT put yourself in that situation with the throttle pedal.


    How fast do you want to be going and still able to spin the rear tires at will?

    Or more importantly, by accident?


    You certainly get to that point by ~400hp, with most tires and most road conditions (normal highway speeds).


    Are you ready to have the rear end step out on you at 70 - 80 mph?


    Because if you put yourself in that situation there are only two ways out: "Near perfect driver input" or "upside down in ditch".

  15. #55
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    Thanks everyone! I know, in the past, folks bought engines at the FFR open house (to save a bit of cash). With no open house this year (I think), are there ever BluePrint sales/specials?
    Last edited by wineguy; 03-04-2018 at 06:05 PM. Reason: Typo

  16. #56
    Senior Member Big Blocker's Avatar
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    Much over 350 HP is a waste of HP, period. Higher HP will get you at the gas pump. Higher HP engines require more octane which sells at higher prices. Lower HP engines that are not hopped up to ridicules amounts can [usually] be run on standard 87-89 octane levels (read: cheap gas) Higher HP engines won't get the MPG that a lower HP engine gets. Stock block 5.0 engines are capable of 25+ MPG with the right rear gears. Do a search for gas mileage of the high HP cars on either forum and you'll find answers around 8-10, some a bit higher. How many times do you want to stop for gas on that long cruise you have on your bucket list?? Fill every 100 or fill every 300 . . .

    That being said, these cars weigh in at about 2200 Lbs. and get stupid squirrely in a heartbeat with an inexperienced driver at the wheel. Most builders fall into this bracket, at least at first. There is a learning curve with ownership of a Cobra. Most will find that the car is capable of things they are not. Best advice is spend some time at an Autocross track event to find out what you are capable of with your newly assembled full-bodied go-cart.

    There will always be those with the "bigger is better" ideology and while that works for some things, Cobra HP isn't one of them.

    Just my 2¢ and not worth a plugged nickle. Let the flaming begin.

    OH yeah, about EFI . . . lets you drive from sea level to over 14K Ft with no issues - can't do that with a carb. Easy starting, great fuel economy, great on "twisty" mountain roads at speed (no fuel sloshing around in fuel bowls), Great throttle response, most newer models self learn so no constant "tweaking".

    Doc
    FFR3712K (MKII) in Lost Wages Nevada.
    5.0 w/tubular GT-40 EFI, E303 cam, Custom 4 into 4 headers, T5, 3-Link 3.73 rear. Full F5 tubular suspension. Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, custom foot box air vents, custom turn signal system. 13" PBR brakes, Fiero E-Brake mod, Flaming River 18:1 rack w/ F5 bump steer kit on Breeze bushings. 17" Chrome Cobra "R's" w/ 275 fronts and 315 rears. MKIV seats. FORD Royal Blue w/ Arctic White stripes.

  17. #57
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scubasommer View Post
    Do you guys offer rotating assemblies? There are parts I wish to get for the internals of my prepped 1969 351w block?
    Hi Scuba, we don't have rotating assemblies at this time.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yama-Bro View Post
    Hi Scuba, we don't have rotating assemblies at this time.
    Thanks for gettin back to me brother!

  19. #59
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    One word. VOODO. ��

  20. #60
    Senior Member Itchief's Avatar
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    We have talked a lot about motor choices but if I had one do over building this ride that would be to go with a different rear end gear ratio

    I think that if you build a roadster with 400+hp a 3.27 or 3.08 would be a better match than the 3.55

    It would make the car have a little longer legs and help with mpg, 70 mph in 5th gear at 2100 rpm is not bad but I think that 70 mph at around 1800 or 1900 rpm would be a better experience

    Just my 2 cents

    Rick
    #8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater

  21. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Itchief View Post

    I think that if you build a roadster with 400+hp a 3.27 or 3.08 would be a better match than the 3.55
    Completely agree.

    I tried to build 500hp / 500'# torque / 393w.

    Started with 3.55 - scared hell out of me - on shifts to third (spin tires rolling into half throttle).

    Much happier with 3.15~3.21.

    Next time I have the heads off I will go with a thicker head gasket to reduce compression (currently 10.5:1).


    Gives me less need for 93 octane / less chance of detonation / lower pucker factor at ~70mph shifts to third....


    Plenty for me.

    Good luck...

  22. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Itchief View Post
    We have talked a lot about motor choices but if I had one do over building this ride that would be to go with a different rear end gear ratio

    I think that if you build a roadster with 400+hp a 3.27 or 3.08 would be a better match than the 3.55

    It would make the car have a little longer legs and help with mpg, 70 mph in 5th gear at 2100 rpm is not bad but I think that 70 mph at around 1800 or 1900 rpm would be a better experience

    Just my 2 cents

    Rick
    Makes a lot of sense! Rick do you have pics of your 390 with the EFI???
    How big of a deal is throwing EFI onto a 69 naturally aspirated engine?
    I am OLD school and have never worked with EFI

    Thanks
    Jimmy

  23. #63
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Cowan View Post
    There's no such thing as too much power, only not enough control.
    AMEN, BROTHER!!!!!

    Getting real. A high HP car is not for everyone. Especially a high HP, lightweight, short wheel-based, no electronic nanny car. I have met 3 people with Cobras (and not really monster ones) that are terrified of them. They putt to the occasional car show and back again.

    Some people use an accelerator pedal like an on-off switch. In a Cobra, that can get your lights switched off in a hurry. You need to learn finesse and control. When you do, the car rewards you. If you don't, it will punish you for any acts of stupidity that modern cars forgive over and over again.

    Here comes my pitch. AUTOCROSS. If you have not autocrossed your Cobra, you have no idea what it, and you, can do. If you think you have driven it really hard on the street, I beg to differ. I recommend doing 3 events just as safety training. If you didn't spin out, you didn't push hard enough. Who knows, you might like it. :-) I had a season, where I logged at least one spin per event. I don't spin that often any more, and am way quicker than I used to be.

  24. #64
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Blocker View Post
    Do a search for gas mileage of the high HP cars on either forum and you'll find answers around 8-10, some a bit higher.

    Doc
    Mileage? What's that? 347 - 500FWHP. 12MPG cruising. Yes, you have to feed those ponies! Glad to see that someone else mentioned autocross.


    That also leads to, if you go carb, don't base the size on the engine size. Base it on your expected HP. Somehow those 1960s charts just won't go away. A 225 hp 302 and a 400hp 302 have different fuel requirements.

    Some other comments, based on reading the rest of the way down.

    You can get surprisingly high HP on 93 octane these days. For any given HP level, a larger engine will be a milder engine. My 347 carb @ 500hp is pretty nasty. A 500hp 460, would be much milder. I specifically wanted nasty, so that works for me. I have an Infiniti for when I want to be civilized.

    Some other comments, based on reading the rest of the way down.
    Rear end ratio. People talk about it in isolation. The transmission and rear TOGETHER determine you rear ratio (tire diameter too if you want to go there). I have a TKO600 RR with 3.31 gears. I have a lower gear ratio than my friend that has a T-5 and 3.55.

    More HP should = stickier tires and better brakes. It also means LOUDER. I have Flowmasters, and it is still too loud.

  25. #65
    Senior Member Itchief's Avatar
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    Jim

    Here is a pic of my 390 with the efi installed I have an edelbrock performer rpm intake and only have about four inches of clearance for the air cleaner I’m not happy with the current air cleaner I would like to install a cold air intake at some point

    I am not trying to endorse the MSD atomic but I found it easy to install and the instructions are well written go to msd performance and you can download and print the instructions. http://documents.msdperformance.com/2910.pdf This was my first efi and I had to read the instructions a couple of times before I started to get a handle on all the terms

    You can make it as simple as just efi with no timing control my choice or have it control timing etc

    I started with a quickfuel 780 and converted to efi with a in tank pump and firewall mounted pressure regulator

    With all the help and knowledge on this forum I’m sure you can install a efi if that’s your choice

    Rick
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Itchief; 03-14-2018 at 09:16 PM.
    #8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater

  26. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avalanche325 View Post

    If you don't, it will punish you for any acts of stupidity that modern cars forgive over and over again.
    And may I add this angle - Anyone who didn't want something to challenge themselves, and occasionally scare the hell out of themselves...

    What exactly were you thinking?


    Quote Originally Posted by Avalanche325 View Post

    If you think you have driven it really hard on the street, I beg to differ.

    Another +1 on autocross.

    Everyone reading this really ought to do it at least long enough to figure out what inputs cause bad outcomes in a safe environment...

  27. #67
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Itchief View Post
    75DA4EAB-A00E-44FC-A9A8-BDC8C35ABEA4.jpeg

    I’m not happy with the current air cleaner.......

    Rick
    Engine Masters did an air cleaner test. You can find it on Youtube. That "Fly eye" air cleaner cost them 72HP! They estimated that it can handle up to 300hp (flywheel). After that, it is a serious restriction. It was 16th out of 19 tested. I think they are also known for being a pretty poor filter. They LOOK like they would be much better than they are. I would either hang it on the wall, or throw it in the trash.

  28. #68
    BluePrintEngines's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wineguy View Post
    Thanks everyone! I know, in the past, folks bought engines at the FFR open house (to save a bit of cash). With no open house this year (I think), are there ever BluePrint sales/specials?
    You're welcome to shoot me an email and we can look at all your options. Sometimes if you catch us at a show we run specials, but we have a bunch of configurations pending your needs that might be more economical anyways.

    [email protected]
    Check out our crate engine offerings at www.factoryfiveengines.com
    Give us a call at 1.800.483.4263

  29. #69
    Senior Member Itchief's Avatar
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    Avalanche

    Thanks for the information I have watched these guys before looks like I need to order a K&N filter top air cleaner because I don’t have much clearance for a filter

    Rick
    #8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater

  30. #70
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Itchief View Post
    Avalanche

    Thanks for the information I have watched these guys before looks like I need to order a K&N filter top air cleaner because I don’t have much clearance for a filter

    Rick
    You could go for the salad bowl. It did quite well on the dyno. You can tell everyone that your air cleaner is a "custom piece". :-)

  31. #71
    Senior Member Itchief's Avatar
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    I would need to get the chrome or stainless bowl from kitchen connection so that it would match the rest of the motor

    Maybe I could get on an episode of roadkill

    Rick
    #8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater

  32. #72
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    I am curious as to how much room there is to change spark plugs, get to header bolts, and get other things done on a big block or even a 351.

    Since others have already gone there I have to add to the idea of a 302 based 347CI stroker! I have a 302 bored and stroked to 347 (I am at 475hp but a cam swap would get me to 500hp easily) and you can see I have a ton of room to maintain my car and am very happy to put the body on as I still will have plenty of room to get around the inside and outs of my car. I can also watch for leaks, get around the underside of the motor and am pretty excited about how well the 302 snuggles down into the chassis. I LOVE MY ENGINE and you will too with 440ft lbs of torque and as much power as you are willing to buy.

    20180303_190204 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr

  33. #73
    CobraboyDR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Blocker View Post
    Much over 350 HP is a waste of HP, period. Higher HP will get you at the gas pump. Higher HP engines require more octane which sells at higher prices. Lower HP engines that are not hopped up to ridicules amounts can [usually] be run on standard 87-89 octane levels (read: cheap gas) Higher HP engines won't get the MPG that a lower HP engine gets. Stock block 5.0 engines are capable of 25+ MPG with the right rear gears. Do a search for gas mileage of the high HP cars on either forum and you'll find answers around 8-10, some a bit higher. How many times do you want to stop for gas on that long cruise you have on your bucket list?? Fill every 100 or fill every 300 . . .

    Doc
    Turque is King. HP is nice, but without grunt the motor has to spin fast to make power.

    I understand why folks go small block: good HP on a budget. But with a SBF you really have to get extreme to make a lot of torque: stroked/bored, high compression, rad valve trains, etc., all stressing the engine.

    And, yes, front weight can be a factor. Somewhat. But springs can mitigate the difference. Besides, these cars didn't turn well in the first place. And a short wheelbase makes performance driving...interesting.

    Folks shy from an FE because of cost and weight. But that should not be. 390FE packages, even stoked to 445, are not much more than a SBF all jazzed up. Readily available aluminun heads, intake and water pump can shave hundreds of pounds off an FE for not massive $$$, and you can run modest compression ratios with pump gas and make monster torque.

    And one more thought: an FE just ~looks~ right in a 427s/c replica.

    I've had both a strong SBF (351w, 420hp in a Contemporary) and FE (475hp 427 side-oiler in a SPF.) The SBF was fun fun fun! But it did not hold a candle to the visceral experience of sound and grunt of the FE. Take a spin in an FE and see the difference.

    You can buy a 425hp 406FE with fake cross bolts for about the same price as a jazzed SBF.

    But opinions vary, all blessings...
    Last edited by CobraboyDR; 03-09-2018 at 09:10 PM.

  34. #74
    Senior Member Itchief's Avatar
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    With a bbf and hooker headers from FFR I had lots of room for access to the header bolts and spark plugs but I lost about a inch and a half in the pedal box

    Rick

  35. #75
    CobraboyDR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Itchief View Post
    With a bbf and hooker headers from FFR I had lots of room for access to the header bolts and spark plugs but I lost about a inch and a half in the pedal box

    Rick
    Please tell me more. An FE won't fit a FFR Mk.4 without footbox modifications? 1.5" is massive for my size 12's...

  36. #76
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    Here's a comparison drawing I picked up off a forum somewhere (years ago).

    I can't speak to how accurate it is.


    114094_6v351vFE.gif

  37. #77
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    I created an inch of room with my 347 and I needed every bit of it with my 6-2 lean frame and 12 inch shoe.

  38. #78
    Senior Member Itchief's Avatar
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    My mkiv kit came with two panels for the drivers footbox one for the 5.0 and one for the 4.6/bbf

    The instructions may only refer to the 4.6 but trust me you will need the 4.6 panel for the bbf install that omission cost me about five hours work to pull the motor and change out the panel

    Using the 4.6 liter panel will cost you about 1.5 inches on the right hand side of the footbox

    You may be able to modify the panel to get some of the space back but the FFR panels worked for me

    I have to use size ten driving shoes

    Rick
    #8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater

  39. #79
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Itchief View Post
    My mkiv kit came with two panels for the drivers footbox one for the 5.0 and one for the 4.6/bbf

    The instructions may only refer to the 4.6 but trust me you will need the 4.6 panel for the bbf install that omission cost me about five hours work to pull the motor and change out the panel

    Using the 4.6 liter panel will cost you about 1.5 inches on the right hand side of the footbox

    You may be able to modify the panel to get some of the space back but the FFR panels worked for me

    I have to use size ten driving shoes

    Rick
    I see your kit number is #8475. My Mk4 is #8674, and had the same sheet metal. I used some custom pieces from 2bking. But that's another story... Some months later Factory Five released a new version of the DS footbox that is used for all engine types. It restores the lost footbox space from the previous 4.6 (and Coyote) sheet metal. It's wide at the top in the engine compartment, but narrows back down at the bottom for added space inside. Plus even adds a little more on the outside of the foot box (the body side). I'm not saying it isn't tight in the engine compartment! It is. And even with everything maxed out, the footbox can be tight for taller drivers, big feet, etc. Just the way it is. But there's no longer a penalty for using the big engines in the Roadster.
    Last edited by edwardb; 03-09-2018 at 04:53 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  40. #80
    Senior Member Itchief's Avatar
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    My bad but thank you for setting me straight

    Things change and time moves on the changes make the car better all the time

    Rick
    #8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater

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