I have the Mark3 Roadster and getting ready to put the vinyl on the dash, never done anything like this before.Any tips would be greatly appreciated
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I have the Mark3 Roadster and getting ready to put the vinyl on the dash, never done anything like this before.Any tips would be greatly appreciated
I used 3m 90 instead of the 77. Get plenty of books to keep weight on it for drying.
Okay does that work better than the 77? also do I need to spray the dash and the vinyl or just the dash? I forgot to add where i'm at on my project i'm running a 351 with stack injection,Tremec TKO600 tranny with a Detroit Locker,drive shaft loop {probably overkill} and a line lock. For brakes I went with Wilwood 6 piston in the front and 4 in the rear. Should be a lot of fun when I get it finished.Thanks Again for your input
I used this product on the dash and carpeting. Still holding after eight years.
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Mk3.1 Complete kit #6846 Delv. 12/20/08-- Finished 2/11/11, 89 302 EFI,T-5, 3-Link, 17" Halibrands, Nitto 555 245-315 tires, widened drivers footbox w/ dead pedal, extended passengers footbox,Sapphire Blue Met & Wimbledon White stripes,radiator stone guard shield, Build blog http://jimsffrcobrabuild.blogspot.com/
Hi JBooth -
Arts and Crafts time I see. Check out post #69 in my build thread (with pics). Don't overthink this step but take your time and you will be very happy with your effort.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ighlight=rickp
A builder on here (EdwardB), turned me on to Landau Top and Trim which you can brush on. When it sticks, it sticks. It's made specifically for what your attempting too do.
P.S. don't do it on the kitchen table like I did. Not a good move on my part.
RickP
Back in the day when I did competition "pro-audio" car-fi systems, I'd have to build enclosures, panels, etc., and cover them with vinyl, carpet, whatever.
The 3M 90 or 77 are great products - just read and adhere (no pun) to the instructions. Proper "flash-off"/tacky time is key to success. My other go-to product was a dauber can of this goo "Ultra-Stick" for those hard, tight curves that just won't lay down (spot use only).
As mentioned, unless you don't want to be buying new furniture, Don't do this in the house! It stinks, and the glue overspray goes farther than you think. Set up three areas a decent distance apart - one is your glue-up, one your "tacking up", the other your "clean" area.
Tools/Materials:
Adhesives
Adhesive solvent - check the glue label for what is used for clean-up)
A box of Nitrile/Latex/Exam (cheapo) gloves
A bunch of new, sharp, single-edge razor blades
Good, sharp scissors (NOT your wife's sewing scissors!)
Heat Gun or Hair Dryer (Your call on using the wife's)
Clean cloth rags - NO Paper
Newspaper
Bathtowel or bedsheet
Drop cloth
Several little wood blocks, etc., (stand-offs)
Wood stick/pencil/skewer
Assortment of heavy stuff - weights, books, etc.
Tips & Prep:
Put a dropcloth down in your glue-up area
Cover the glue-up table with newspaper (tape the edges/seams down so it doesn't flip up into your work) and have a stack of replacements handy.
Cover the "Clean" area with an old bathtowel or sheet, also tape the edges down.
**Take a scrap of your upholstery material, and test your clean-up solvent on it** The last thing you need is to melt your work!
Glue-up:
Set out a few stand-offs on your glue table and your "tack up" area
Set the part "bad side up" on the glue table standoffs
Put your gloves on
Apply the adhesive (as directed) around the rim/edges of the part/openings
Flip the part, and apply adhesive on the "good side"
Use the stick to break the "silly strings" from the part to the table
Move the part to the "tack up" area.
While "Tacking Up":
Tear off & change the paper on the glue table
Lay out your upholstery on the "Clean" table - tape it down flat in a few places - you don't want it to move or wad up on the initial "stick".
Application:
You should still have your gluing gloves on - move the part from "Tack up" to "Clean"
Carefully align, and set the part down "good side down" on the upholstery
*Change your Gloves*
Start working from the center of the long edges (top & bottom) and work your way to the ends - don't overstretch the material
Make your pie-cuts as needed - Don't go too close to the edge!!
Leave the difficult/tight corners for now
At about 60% done, carefully lift the part and check the "good side" - see if you've over-stretched/skewed the grain in any areas, etc. - If you're good continue.
Work your way around until there's nothing left but the hard/tight corners.
This is where the "ultra-stick" or similar, and the heat gun come into play...
The key is your trimming on the corners - you don't want a wad of upholstery to lay down flat - carefully trim so they don't overlap
Be very careful using heat - you just want make the material pliable - not MELT it! Warm up a problem area and coax it to fold/lay down. Apply weight.
Advise: Buy a scrap of material and practice! Get used the adhesive characteristics, the use of heat, and trouble spots.
It's not hard to do, just work carefully.
Last edited by Fixit; 02-28-2018 at 09:08 AM.
John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs
1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021